Wireless and direct connection problems with internet connectivity

A

Andy

My son in law is having a lot of problems with internet connectivity.

Both wired direct and wireless.

It is thru Comcast.

Here is what I have been trying.

Disconnecting the cables and powering on and off of both the cable box and wireless unit.

I replaced one of the cables.

There is no problem with wireless two houses away.

Windows is also saying Low Signal Strength.

Thanks,
Andy

Thanks,
Andy
 
P

Paul

Andy said:
My son in law is having a lot of problems with internet connectivity.

Both wired direct and wireless.

It is thru Comcast.

Here is what I have been trying.

Disconnecting the cables and powering on and off of both the cable box and wireless unit.

I replaced one of the cables.

There is no problem with wireless two houses away.

Windows is also saying Low Signal Strength.

Thanks,
Andy

Thanks,
Andy

Well, if I was working on it, as a lowly home user (which I am),
I'd split the problem in two. The very last thing I'd want
to throw into the mix, is having the 802.11 wireless
as a variable ( -=-=- in the diagram ). You can work
on the wireless part, once you've proved Comcast isn't
ripping you off. The wired portion should be more reliable.

See if the computer in question, has an option to disable the
wireless portion. (My laptop, has an option to turn off the
radio on the Wifi, as an example of a control.) Once the wireless
is off, and the Ethernet cable is detected running from the
computer on the right, to the cable modem in the center,
the computer should switch over to Ethernet.

Cable_Company ---------- CC or User ------------------ wired link
provided cable or
modem -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- wireless to the
computer

If the Cable Modem includes a one port or multi-port router
(modern devices are all-in-one), it likely supports DHCP and
dishes out 192.168.x.x private addresses for the computers
in the house.

If you can ping the cable modem from a command prompt...

ping 192.168.100.1

or use your web browser on it, that proves the wiring from the
right of the diagram, to the center of the diagram is working.
I got the IP address from the FAQ link below. The address to reach
the router setup page, is probably in your paper documentation
somewhere. Using a browser, you might try

http://192.168.100.1

*******

The right-hand sidebar here, has a few FAQ entries for Comcast
Cable. There's one for signal strength, if you like to dabble
in such things (that's signal strength on the Comcast cable
TV wire). Or, talk to Comcast, and listen to the script
their tech has to offer (the ole "turn it off and turn it on"
crap).

http://www.dslreports.com/faq/comcast/2.1_Modems

http://www.dslreports.com/faq/7363 <--- logging into modem from
a web browser...

ISPs either allow users to own their own modems, or the
modem is a rental. If it's a rental, it might be covered
in the FAQ. If it was purchased separately, it might have
manuals in the box, or available online, for probing it.

The modem should collect statistics. And that's one way of
determining whether basic operation is present or not.
The status lights on the box, provide a simple go-nogo
status. But the signal level page delivered by the
router to your browser, can also give some info.

*******

I'm on ADSL, and for us as users, there is "DMT". I think
I read somewhere, it uses telnet protocol on the local LAN
to talk to the ADSL box, and it downloads the stats and
makes that colorful graph. There are websites, such as
dslreports, that have more info on how to interpret the
numbers in DMT. I've never run this on mine (because my
ADSL is in bridged mode), but I understand some people
use the results of such testing, to ask for a profile
bump to a higher bandwidth setting.

http://dmt.mhilfe.de/

I doubt the operation of the cable, is quite that crude.

We have to work a bit harder, if we want to debug
our broken ADSL setups. But the phone company can
also wring out the line from their end, and check
parameters. It's just more reassuring to have a
graph to offer as proof they're not delivering
the level of service they should.

If you get it working right, while using the
Ethernet cable, then that might point to the
Wifi as the busted part. But first, I'd want
to make sure the setup is rock solid over
Ethernet cable, before letting Comcast off
the hook in terms of delivering service. Getting
the Wifi working, is for "bonus points".

Paul
 
A

Andy

My son in law is having a lot of problems with internet connectivity.



Both wired direct and wireless.



It is thru Comcast.



Here is what I have been trying.



Disconnecting the cables and powering on and off of both the cable box and wireless unit.



I replaced one of the cables.



There is no problem with wireless two houses away.



Windows is also saying Low Signal Strength.



Thanks,

Andy



Thanks,

Andy

Thanks I did the ping and it was ok.

Cisco router says it is ok and connected.

When I connect directly from cable box to 2 other computers, it cant make a connection.

Andy
 
P

Paul

Thanks I did the ping and it was ok.
Cisco router says it is ok and connected.
When I connect directly from cable box to 2 other computers, it cant make a connection.
Andy

Cable box ------------- Cisco Router -----
----- -----
----- ----- Working computer ???
----- -----

If the Cable box had the router section disabled, and
was running in something like a bridged mode, then it
might only support one Ethernet "thing" at a time. For
example, like this

Cable box ------------- Cisco Router -----
----- -----
----- Broken Comp -----
----- -----

Maybe if the cable box is only supporting one connection
at a time (bridged mode) and the Cisco Router is providing
the home routing function, there'd be a limit on
connecting where the "Broken Comp" is shown. You want
to connect to the Cisco router, assuming it has
both wireless and wired outputs.

Could you draw me a stick diagram, of the intended configuration ?

*******

When you draw me a picture of the boxes and wiring, then
I'll know whether the following advice is going to help
at all...

*******

Go back to the working configuration.

Log into the router portion. Check the
DHCP information. It'll say

Start DHCP addresses at: 192.168.100.2
Max addresses: 4

The addresses doled out in that case, on a DHCP request,
would span from 192.169.100.2 to 192.168.100.5. If you
don't have enough addresses defined, that could be
a problem. If it said max addresses: 1, you'd
bump it up a bit. The router portion should
restart itself, after significant changes are
made and saved.

A Windows computer, might use DHCP to get
an IP address to use. It's important for it
to be on the same subnet, so it'll work with
the four port switch in the networking box.

*******

If a computer can't get an address, it has the
option of using APIPA 169.254.x.x .

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apipa

On the "broken" machines, open Command Prompt
and do

ipconfig

Example here:

http://www.redirc.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/ipconfig.jpg

That tells you the IP address the computer is using.
If it's a 192.168 type, the router probably gave
that address to the computer. If the address is
169.254 type, the second and third computers are
"partitioned". You might still try the ping test
though, just for the hell of it.

Bump up DHCP settings in router and retest.
Verify second and third computers, are
actually "looking" at Ethernet. If somehow
they had no Ethernet driver, that would be
a good reason for failure too. Check Device
Manager, and have a look (devmgmt.msc in Start : Run).

But first, we need a nice stick diagram, to verify
the imaginary solution above...

Paul
 
A

Andy

My son in law is having a lot of problems with internet connectivity.



Both wired direct and wireless.



It is thru Comcast.



Here is what I have been trying.



Disconnecting the cables and powering on and off of both the cable box and wireless unit.



I replaced one of the cables.



There is no problem with wireless two houses away.



Windows is also saying Low Signal Strength.



Thanks,

Andy



Thanks,

Andy
I found out that I have to disconnect power to modem for 30 seconds when connecting direct from modem to computer.

Is this enuf to show that there is no hardware issue ?

Andy

Model: Cisco DPC3008
Vendor: Cisco
Hardware Revision: 1.0
Serial Number: M
MAC Address:
Bootloader Revision: 2.3.1_R3
Current Software Revision: d3000-v302r125532-120517a-L2VPN-CMCST
Firmware Name: d3000-v302r125532-120517a-L2VPN-CMCST.bin
Firmware Build Time: May 17 11:31:04 2012
Cable Modem Status: Operational
Wireless Network:

Results from a Direct from computer to cable modem

Pinging 192.168.100.1 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64

Ping statistics for 192.168.100.1:
Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 0ms, Maximum = 0ms, Average = 0ms
 
P

Paul

Andy said:
I found out that I have to disconnect power to modem for 30 seconds when connecting direct from modem to computer.

Is this enuf to show that there is no hardware issue ?

Andy

Model: Cisco DPC3008
Vendor: Cisco
Hardware Revision: 1.0
Serial Number: M
MAC Address:
Bootloader Revision: 2.3.1_R3
Current Software Revision: d3000-v302r125532-120517a-L2VPN-CMCST
Firmware Name: d3000-v302r125532-120517a-L2VPN-CMCST.bin
Firmware Build Time: May 17 11:31:04 2012
Cable Modem Status: Operational
Wireless Network:

Results from a Direct from computer to cable modem

Pinging 192.168.100.1 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time<1ms TTL=64

Ping statistics for 192.168.100.1:
Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 0ms, Maximum = 0ms, Average = 0ms

OK, so I'm working on the stick diagram. This is
what I have so far.

192.168.100.1
1xEthernet
Comcast ----- Cisco DPC3008 ------------------ Router Wired ------- Computer
Cable Modem -----X and WiFi, Model
1xUSB number unknown

(Where I got my details on the cable modem...)

http://www.cisco.com/web/consumer/products/gatemod-dpc3000.html#~specifications

Now, you're telling me you connected the computer to the
cable modem directly, and pinged it. If you want to
continue testing this...

192.168.100.1
1xEthernet
Comcast ----- Cisco DPC3008 --------------------------------------- Computer
Cable Modem -----X
1xUSB

.... you can try pinging something on the Internet,
or use the browser and prove you can reach some sites.

ping www.sun.com

I picked that one, because in the past it only
seemed to have one IP mapping.

You could also use something like Speedtest.net or
one of the other network speed testing sites. I
see there is a

http://speedtest.comcast.net/

available. You could try your browser on that site,
and see if you can get a reading of network speed. If
it runs at a decent speed, you've done a pretty good test
of the modem and "pipes".

*******

OK, so let's say that the testing of the direct connection
works. Then we should go back to the "full" setup.

192.168.100.1
1xEthernet
Comcast ----- Cisco DPC3008 ------------------ Router Wired ------- Computer
Cable Modem -----X and WiFi, Model
1xUSB number unknown

On the computer at this point, I would want to check the IP address
of the computer. In Command Prompt, try

ipconfig

On my computer, I'd get

192.168.1.1

but your setup could be different. The addresses are 192.168.x.x,
where you can select say 192.168.2.x subnet if you want. It doesn't
have to be 192.168.1.x. In any case, I'd probably avoid 192.168.100.x,
because the path between the Cisco and your separate router,
is using that. I have a setup similar to the diagram, in that
I use modem box and a separate router, and the subnets on either
side use different numeric values. (I.e. 192.168.100.x on the WAN
side of the router, and 192.168.1.x on the LAN side.)

So when you do ipconfig, the number that comes back can tell
you something about the setup. (It tells you whether the
computer was able to do the DHCP address thing with the router
or not. The value tells you whether it succeeded.) If you get
an APIPA address, then maybe the router is ignoring you, or
the Ethernet wire is broken etc.

Let's say your computer has a "nice" ipconfig value, and you're
ready to move on. Now, it's time to ping the router. But
since we don't know anything about the router at this point,
we don't know if it's at 10.x.x.x or 192.168.1.1 or where
it's at. The documentation may tell us something.

Actually, I had a program once, that would scan all possible IPV4
addresses, looking for a response. So if somebody set the
router to some goofy value (as a joke), it might take all night,
but you can find the address without resetting the router.
If you absolutely can't contact the router (using the known
address), then you can reset it.

If you can figure out the address of the router, then log into
it and check the configuration. I'm using what I think is
an unroutable address here, just as an example value. I think
I've run into at least one product, that used an address like
this. Sometimes, the router has a symbolic address rather
than a number, because they think it's easier to remember.
I can't remember the symbolic value for mine - I'd have
to look it up. Remember, we're trying to figure out the
address of the router, so we can log in.

http://10.0.0.1

You'll be prompted for username and password.

[ The router can have five Ethernet ports (as an example).
Four of the ports are one color, and are on the LAN side.
Those ports are where you connect the computer. The fifth
port is labeled "WAN" and that port connects to the cable
modem. Since the cable modem has a GbE port with MDIX on it,
you don't have to worry about Ethernet cable type. Connect
the WAN port on the router, to the cable modems single
Ethernet port. ]

OK, so if you can log into the router, you can browse through
the settings.

If you tell me the router model number, I can take a
quick peek at the manual... :)

Paul
 
A

Andy

My son in law is having a lot of problems with internet connectivity.



Both wired direct and wireless.



It is thru Comcast.



Here is what I have been trying.



Disconnecting the cables and powering on and off of both the cable box and wireless unit.



I replaced one of the cables.



There is no problem with wireless two houses away.



Windows is also saying Low Signal Strength.



Thanks,

Andy



Thanks,

Andy

Will this info help ?

Andy

Your Speed Result: (cable modem -> computer)
Download Speed: 25194 kbps (3149.3 KB/sec transfer rate)
Upload Speed: 3822 kbps (477.8 KB/sec transfer rate)

Pinging 192.168.100.1 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=63
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=63
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=63
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=63

Ping statistics for 192.168.100.1:
Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 1ms, Maximum = 1ms, Average = 1ms

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : hsd1.tx.comcast.net.
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::51d1:f158:592d:2b92%10
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.103
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : hsd1.tx.comcast.net.
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::51d1:f158:592d:2b92%10
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.103
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1

Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 2001:0:9d38:953c:20dc:3115:9d3d:5cf5
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::20dc:3115:9d3d:5cf5%12
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : ::

Tunnel adapter isatap.{B6D6A56E-B1A9-474A-B119-BECD4947C421}:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :

Tunnel adapter isatap.hsd1.tx.comcast.net.:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : hsd1.tx.comcast.net.
 
P

Paul

Andy wrote:

(My answers are inline)
Will this info help ?

Andy

So this is the result of running a SpeedTest using
a web browser.
Your Speed Result: (cable modem -> computer)
Download Speed: 25194 kbps (3149.3 KB/sec transfer rate)
Upload Speed: 3822 kbps (477.8 KB/sec transfer rate)

The tool tells us, this is the cable modem direct to
computer connection. The rate of 25m down and 3.8m up,
is better than my connection to the Internet. I don't
know what package you've bought, but I suspect you
could view a bit of video with the state that connection
is in right now. That's about ten times as good
as my Internet connection.
Pinging 192.168.100.1 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=63
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=63
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=63
Reply from 192.168.100.1: bytes=32 time=1ms TTL=63

Ping statistics for 192.168.100.1:
Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 1ms, Maximum = 1ms, Average = 1ms

That chunk, appears to be the output from "ping 192.168.100.1"
from computer to router. Seems to be working fine. The
fact you could use a browser and run the speedtest just
fine, already checked the plumbing on the connection. The
result seems to be telling me, that ping used IPV4.

Now, the next chunk, appears to be the output of "ipconfig",
while the computer is connected to the cable modem directly.
Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : hsd1.tx.comcast.net.
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::51d1:f158:592d:2b92%10
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.103
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : hsd1.tx.comcast.net.
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::51d1:f158:592d:2b92%10
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.103
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.1

Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 2001:0:9d38:953c:20dc:3115:9d3d:5cf5
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::20dc:3115:9d3d:5cf5%12
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : ::

Tunnel adapter isatap.{B6D6A56E-B1A9-474A-B119-BECD4947C421}:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :

Tunnel adapter isatap.hsd1.tx.comcast.net.:

Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : hsd1.tx.comcast.net.

I'm not competent to comment on that one. But some things
bother me about what I see there.

Perhaps someone else can decode that and see what's wrong with it.

I see both IPV6 and IPV4 information. My personal setup
only shows IPV4, and I'm generally careful to set my
computers up with IPV4 and turn the other stuff off.
But this is just ignorance on my part, not a necessity.

The 192.168.1.103 is a DHCP address in the non-routable range
(the way it's supposed to be for LAN usage on the other
side of NAT-style translation). The cable modem, since it
has both an Ethernet connector and a USB connector, there's
a good chance it has a router stage in it already. So
at least in terms of that address, it seems to be working.

The gateway address is 192.168.1.1 (that's the address of
the gateway in the cable modem?). Yet, we were able to
ping the router at 192.168.100.1, so I don't know if that
makes sense or not. On my setup, the gateway value is
the same as the value I'd use for pinging the box. So
I'm not seeing how that is an appropriate value. It
makes sense though, with respect to the 192.168.1.103
value.

Now, the fact the entry is duplicated twice (each entry doesn't
have some trivial difference from the other), I don't
understand what's going on there.

Terado is similar to 6to4, a means of translating a situation
between IPV6 and IPV4. It might be used on a situation
where one end doesn't support IPV6 at the moment (like, lacks
the software path), so Terado is used to "punch thru" to the
outside world. You can read this article as easily as I can.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teredo_tunneling

So what I think I'm seeing in the ipconfig information,
is three identities for the computer, whereas on mine
I see just one.

Other than that, at the moment, things are working! And
you know that.

So are we happy with the "computer to cable modem" test
case yet ? Can we move on ?

We can annotate the stick drawing now, with info that
is apparent. This is what I expect would happen, with
the "full setup". *Please* , if this is not an
accurate representation of the "what's busted" case,
explain how I've got this wrong.

192.168.1.1 gateway? 192.168.1.x We'll know
192.168.100.1? soon...
1xEthernet
Comcast ----- Cisco DPC3008 ------------------ Router Wired ------- Computer
Cable Modem -----X and WiFi, Model
1xUSB number unknown

When you hook things up, the way they were originally,
and run "ipconfig", that'll tell us a little bit
about the separate router box you own, on the right.
I would expect the subnet on the computer side in
this case, will tell us how the DHCP is set up in
the router. As far as I know, it should be
a different subnet. So on the right, it could
be 192.168.2.x .

Also, when you're set up like that (after you've
verified the ipconfig info), you can log into
the router on the right, and review the settings.

Paul
 
A

Andy

My son in law is having a lot of problems with internet connectivity.



Both wired direct and wireless.



It is thru Comcast.



Here is what I have been trying.



Disconnecting the cables and powering on and off of both the cable box and wireless unit.



I replaced one of the cables.



There is no problem with wireless two houses away.



Windows is also saying Low Signal Strength.



Thanks,

Andy



Thanks,

Andy

Paul,

I really appreciate your help.

I would like to move on to the wireless side.

I have a laptop that I run using the WiFi.

When I am using it, I frequently hover my mouse over the "wireless icon"
and see all kinds of speed values from 5 Mbps -> 100 Mbps in addition to a lost connection.

There are currently 4 networks set up to automatically connect.

Andy


and see
 
P

Paul

Andy said:
Paul,

I really appreciate your help.

I would like to move on to the wireless side.

I have a laptop that I run using the WiFi.

When I am using it, I frequently hover my mouse over the "wireless icon"
and see all kinds of speed values from 5 Mbps -> 100 Mbps in addition to a lost connection.

There are currently 4 networks set up to automatically connect.

Andy


and see

There are some pictures here.

http://www.asu.edu/studentaffairs/reslife/resnet/internet.htm

For example, in this one, there are six routers within
range, and the signal strength of each is on the right.
The second one down, is protected by WPA2 encryption,
while the top one is completely open. The top one (a
university Wifi), also has good signal strength.

http://www.asu.edu/studentaffairs/reslife/resnet/images/XP-int-04.jpg

Wireless can use a "custom" control panel, or
it can use the built-in Wireless Zero Config.

You can see in the example here, the setup
can be quite complicated.

http://qb3.ucsf.edu/computing/UCSFwlan/QB3-secure-WinXP.html

*******

Now, of your four networks, I'm hoping one of them is
your unnamed wireless router. And that's the one you'd want
to work on.

When it comes to wireless, things can interfere with it.
The signal strength bar can be full (quantity), but if
another strong RF signal is nearby, that mimics the
transmission method, it interferes with the "quality"
of the signal. A failing of the quality, might manifest
as a high error rate, and a need for the Wifi to retransmit
data over and over again, until an uncorrupted packet
gets through. You might see some lights doing a lot more
blinking, than the level of interaction deserves.

An example someone posted here, was "every time my phone
rings, the Wifi connection drops". It turned out, the
guy had a hands free phone, running on 2.4GHz. If the
base station needed to send "ringing tone" to the portable
handset, the signal was carried on 2.4GHz, and the receivers
in the computers would be "blinded" by the signal. And the
network would drop, and any ongoing download would time
out.

For such a situation, I recommend a "survey". If you're in an
apartment building, you could be surrounded with 802.11n
Wifi devices, with three antennas and running more power than
they should (because the users screwed three custom antennas
on them). "Wifi warfare" doesn't cause outright corruption
necessarily, but it can fill the available channels with
packets, and leave little opportunity for anyone to
achieve a high transmission rate between computer and
their own router box.

The microwave oven can interfere with Wifi, if it is
"leaky". And old microwave with a loosely fitting
door can do that. That would cause the background
noise level to rise, every time you heat up your
lunch.

Other possibilities are things like Bluetooth. A laptop
can have both Bluetooth and Wifi, and the Bluetooth
uses slightly different methods than the Wifi, and
isn't supposed to interfere. If you didn't need the
Bluetooth network, you'd turn off the radio on the
thing.

There's many possibilities to consider, and just
because you've got "five bars", does not guarantee
a high packet rate (quality issue). Even excessively
strong output on one of the Wifi devices, can lead
to reflections and multi-path distortion (two copies
of signal arrive, out of phase). It can get pretty
complicated to figure out.

If the equipment is in two different rooms, sometimes
the reason you don't have "five bars", is because the
doorframe is all-metal.

*******

So, we've got two issues.

1) Getting connected, and getting any kind of a
connection at all (issues: router setup, computer
setup, security method and passwords, encryption...).

2) Once the thing is running, you could have five bars,
and only get 1 megabit/sec. In which case, you have
to review all the sources of interference in the area.
If you have a portable phone with base station,
you'd see if it operates on 2.4GHz (same as the Wifi).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels

HTH,
Paul
 
A

Andy

My son in law is having a lot of problems with internet connectivity.



Both wired direct and wireless.



It is thru Comcast.



Here is what I have been trying.



Disconnecting the cables and powering on and off of both the cable box and wireless unit.



I replaced one of the cables.



There is no problem with wireless two houses away.



Windows is also saying Low Signal Strength.



Thanks,

Andy



Thanks,

Andy

I think I found one issue. My connect speeds are better and stay that way longer.

The Wifi network only needs to connect to one network.

It was originally set to auto connect to 4 networks.

This is a theory so far, but maybe there were too many fighting to "get in the door." :)

NetStumbler was an excellent help.

Andy
 
P

Paul

Andy said:
I think I found one issue. My connect speeds are better and stay that way longer.

The Wifi network only needs to connect to one network.

It was originally set to auto connect to 4 networks.

This is a theory so far, but maybe there were too many fighting to "get in the door." :)

NetStumbler was an excellent help.

Andy

When I list Wifi networks within reach on my laptop, many
of those are secure, and are some kind of thing provided
by one of the ISPs here. I would not be able to
connect to one of those.

You'd be interested in the one (SSID) that belongs to
your router. I don't know the details of doing this,
but you'd look in the router setup, to see where
you can enter anything which serves as an ID. If you
don't set that, then the router default name might be
used, and then it would be confused with others in the
neighborhood. (Many people do not set this, so the
entries in the neighborhood all look similar.)

You want to connect to your own, on the theory you've got
an excellent speed test right at the cable modem, and
should have plenty of surf bandwidth on the Wifi side
of your wireless/wired router.

As far as I'm aware, the entries in there should not be
"duplicates" of one another. A Wifi survey should be showing
unique info, collected at the moment you operate the
survey (whether in WZC or in some other tool).

So make sure you've entered something unique for a string
(preferably without identity info, like not "thejohnsonhousehold").
By using a unique identifier on your router, then you'll be
connecting to the right one with your laptop or whatever.

You should also set up the router and laptop, for the same
flavor of security, like WPA2. This is a nuisance, but is
intended to prevent drive-by downloading. The problem now,
is the ISPs run a "six strikes" program or similar, where
they log illegal movie downloads. If you run unsecured Wifi
(no WEP, no WPA2 etc, just "open"), out of the goodness of
your heart, then some bum in a car will download Hollywood
movies, while sitting in a car on the street and doing
the same "survey" you did, to see what Wifi networks are open.
Many people might use your kindly offered bandwidth, for
less nefarious purposes. But all it takes is one person
downloading a copy of the "Hurt Locker", and you'll get
an extortionate letter from some lawyer the next week.
While I'm all for sharing Wifi, only in a "lawyer free environment"
does it make sense now. And not where we live.

Paul
 

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