RF wireless mouse and WIFI interference

[A Strauss]

Can a Packard Bell RF wireless mouse interfere with a WiFi (g) network
to the extent that the mouse stops responding?

If not, what would make the mouse die?

Thanks

 

[Yves Leclerc]

802.11g uses a different RF than the mouse system. The most common reason
that the mouse dies is that the AA or AAA batteries die!

 

[yabbadoo]

Another reason is that the mouse radio channel got changed, try re-setting
the channel by pressing the (tiny) select button near the battery
compartment on the mouse.

 

[Yves Leclerc]

It may also be labeld "Connect"??

Another reason is that the mouse radio channel got changed, try re-setting
the channel by pressing the (tiny) select button near the battery
compartment on the mouse.

 

[yabbadoo]

True. Whichever brand mouse it is, there's only one such button. Whatever
the label, it changes channels and hopefully solves the problem (though you
could be equally right, it's duff batteries). My money's on the channel
change - he's likely to have changed batteries before posting, as being the
most obvious solution.
Sincerely, Len.

 

[Yves Leclerc]

You would be surprised on the number of calls I get because of this. My
client's first response: there are batteries in these????

 

[Trent©]

Can a Packard Bell RF wireless mouse interfere with a WiFi (g) network
to the extent that the mouse stops responding?

Don't know. But I do know this...

Had a client that had a cordless phone...sitiing on a charger
base...sitting between the mouse and its receiver. Mouse would act
erratically. Moved the phone...all was well.

If not, what would make the mouse die?

Dead or weak batteries...change in frequency so that the receiver
can't see the mouse..etc.. Did you right-click (on most mice) to get
it up and running again?


Have a nice one...

Trent

Budweiser: Helping ugly people have sex since 1876!

 

[yabbadoo]

Incroyable!!

You would be surprised on the number of calls I get because of this. My
client's first response: there are batteries in these????

 

[Trent©]

You would be surprised on the number of calls I get because of this. My
client's first response: there are batteries in these????

What amazes me is the LIFE of the batteries.

Some last 2 weeks...some last 6 months. And same brand of battery.

Go figure!


Have a nice one...

Trent

Budweiser: Helping ugly people have sex since 1876!

 

[yabbadoo]

Trent - info from Logitech tech support, response to "battery life"
complaint
The MOUSE-MAT is the key - Logitech recommend a plain LIGHT-colour mat.
They told me that dark colour mats, or high-contrast design mats (text,
gaudy patterns) "fools" the optical sensor and it doesn't cut out. (Battery
mice sensors cut out after 2 mins or so inactivity).
Changed my dark blue mousemat - more than doubled the battery life.

Given the cost of Duracells, am reliably informed (elsewhere in ng) that
rechargeables work fine. Way to go! (Checked my last battery voltage
immediately when the mouse "died" - 0.96 volts. Above 1.0 volt, still
works - rechargeables are 1.2 volts, vs. 1.5v nominal for alkaline)

PC's use has an effect, too Gaming is constant mouse use, watching DVD's
involves little. Work, somewhere in-between.

Sincerely, Len

 

[Trent©]

Trent - info from Logitech tech support, response to "battery life"
complaint
The MOUSE-MAT is the key - Logitech recommend a plain LIGHT-colour mat.
They told me that dark colour mats, or high-contrast design mats (text,
gaudy patterns) "fools" the optical sensor and it doesn't cut out. (Battery
mice sensors cut out after 2 mins or so inactivity).

It depends on the mouse, Len. One of the ones I use, for instance,
has an LED on the receiver...that comes on when I use the mouse.
There's also an LED in the mouse itself...that constantly flashes.
After about 2 minutes, it'll go to sleep...and you can reactivate it
by moving the mouse.

When the machine first boots, the mouse will not become active until
you press the right button. The same is true if it hasn't been used
for an hour or so.

The battery on this mouse lasts about a month. When the battery gets
weak, the pointer just drops to the bottom of the screen...and you
can't get it back. But you can quickly turn it into a corded mouse by
connecting its long wire on the receiver to a female connector on the
front of the mouse.

My wife has a cordless...no LED's on receiver or mouse. It never
sleeps. Battery on her mouse lasts at least 6 months. When it gets
weak, it works with a jerking motion. It can't be turned into a
corded mouse.

Changed my dark blue mousemat - more than doubled the battery life.

That's interesting. But I think yer sayin' because it helps the mouse
get into sleep mode. Fine. But my mouse never sleeps...nor does my
wife's when she's on the computer...only when goin' to the kitchen for
a few minutes, etc.

Given the cost of Duracells, am reliably informed (elsewhere in ng) that
rechargeables work fine. Way to go! (Checked my last battery voltage
immediately when the mouse "died" - 0.96 volts. Above 1.0 volt, still
works - rechargeables are 1.2 volts, vs. 1.5v nominal for alkaline)

PC's use has an effect, too Gaming is constant mouse use, watching DVD's
involves little. Work, somewhere in-between.

From my experience, I'm guessing that the real difference has to do
with circuitry and internal efficiency. For example, why would a
mouse need LED's? Certainly not to work.


Have a nice one...

Trent

Budweiser: Helping ugly people have sex since 1876!

 

[yabbadoo]

I agree. I DID specify it was "Logitech" advice (and it's reasonable to
assume that sensors react similarly, whatever the optical mouse?)
"LED comes on (mouse) whenever you use the mouse" - if that's on a cordless,
no wonder you only get a month's battery life! That's unnecessary battery
drain - user can see mouse pointer move, so what's the point of the LED?
(out of interest - what mat do you use - plain, lettered/patterned? Try
plain white(or paper cover on mat) see if that improves battery life. I
complained at 5 weeks life from new, changing the mat gives me substantially
more).

"LED on receiver" - fine, but that's powered from PS2 or USB port, whichever
the receiver's connected to.

Interesting differences on "wake-up" between different makes. Mine's up and
running on boot.

Thanks for the info - Len