PC is dead after installing new board

[Bob H]

Hi,
I have just installed a new intel Asrock P4V88 motherboard and a new
Intel 2.8Ghz cpu, connected all the wires etc, switched on, but it won't
power up. The old board was for an AMD cpu which had died. I have tested
the PSU and that is working ok, in that the fan runs and I get an led
lit up on a tester.
I have pulled out the board, refitted it twice, but still no go.
The only thing that is different is that the Power LED connector is 2
wires on a 3 pin socket, and there are only 2 pins to connect it to.
I have also tried swapping the connections around in case I got it wrong
the first time, but still nothing. I have tried without the ram, but
that didn't help.

Any other ideas please?
Thanks

 

[pcbutts1]

Hi, I have just installed a new intel Asrock P4V88 motherboard and a new
Intel 2.8Ghz cpu, connected all the wires etc, switched on, but it
won't power up.

Hey. This tastes good for a change.

The old board was for an AMD cpu which had died.

Do you worry about getting old?

I have tested the PSU and that is working ok, in that the fan runs and I
get an led lit up on a tester.

I've been reading Great Expectations.

I have pulled out the board, refitted it twice, but still no go.

I've shown you mine, now let me see yours.

The only thing that is different is that the Power LED connector is 2
wires on a 3 pin socket, and there are only 2 pins to connect it to.

Are you trying to please an imaginary crowd?

I have also tried swapping the connections around in case I got it wrong
the first time, but still nothing.

I've outgrown that.

I have tried without the ram, but that didn't help.

I've been reading Great Expectations.

Any other ideas please?

Please what?

Thanks.

Thanks. You're an angel.

 

[BlastUK]

does your psu support p4 boards?
p4 boards require an extra power cable to the motherboard, its a 4 pin
square shaped plug about the size of your finger

 

[Bob H]

does your psu support p4 boards?
p4 boards require an extra power cable to the motherboard, its a 4 pin
square shaped plug about the size of your finger

Yes there is a 4 pin square sghaped plug with 2 black and 2 yellow wires
plugged in to the board. I have just taken out the cpu and tried it but
nothing at all. Could it be the board that is dead?
Thanks

 

[BlastUK]

it could be the power button connector then

 

[Patty]

Hi,
I have just installed a new intel Asrock P4V88 motherboard and a new
Intel 2.8Ghz cpu, connected all the wires etc, switched on, but it won't
power up. The old board was for an AMD cpu which had died. I have tested
the PSU and that is working ok, in that the fan runs and I get an led
lit up on a tester.
I have pulled out the board, refitted it twice, but still no go.
The only thing that is different is that the Power LED connector is 2
wires on a 3 pin socket, and there are only 2 pins to connect it to.
I have also tried swapping the connections around in case I got it wrong
the first time, but still nothing. I have tried without the ram, but
that didn't help.

Any other ideas please?
Thanks

Did you try powering up the board outside of the case? I had this happen
once with a new motherboard and, on the advice of the tech support who sold
me the board, I powered it up outside the case and it worked fine. Turned
out the board was shorting against the case through a connector.

Patty

 

[Bob H]

it could be the power button connector then

no, just tested that,and there is a resistance betwen the 2 wires when
the switch is pushed in.
Thanks anyway

 

[Dreamstalker]

no, just tested that,and there is a resistance betwen the 2 wires when
the switch is pushed in.
Thanks anyway

Check the power leads connecting to the motherboard. My case's front
audio connector is loose on the board, and tends to get knocked free
if I move the case a lot (transport, etc).

Yes, also run the board outside of the case. Do you get any beeps at
all on powerup?

 

[Dreamstalker]

no, just tested that,and there is a resistance betwen the 2 wires when
the switch is pushed in.
Thanks anyway

The power lead from the case is 2 wires in a 3 pin socket? Are you
sure the board only has 2 pins to connect PWR to? What's your board
model; the manual should diagram the exact placement of the PWR lead
socket. I made almost that same mistake once.

Yes, also run the board outside of the case. Do you get any beeps at
all on powerup?

 

[BlastUK]

how are you testing the resistance?
is the comp even starting up when you press the button?

by what i've read i'm imagining:

the connector is wrong so it doesn't work
the computer doesn't get the on signal at all

try shorting the pwr pins manually

 

[Bob H]

The power lead from the case is 2 wires in a 3 pin socket? Are you sure
the board only has 2 pins to connect PWR to? What's your board model;
the manual should diagram the exact placement of the PWR lead socket. I
made almost that same mistake once.

Yes, also run the board outside of the case. Do you get any beeps at
all on powerup?

It is the power LED not lead that has a 3 pin connector onto 2 pins.
Yes the board works outside of the case, ie the cpu fan spins, but as
soon as I put it back into the case it stops. This is the 2nd Asrock
board I have installed into 2 PCs and in the first case that one was
shorting somewhere as well, but this one is almost impossible to screw
down without it not working.

thanks

 

[old jon]

Hi,
I have just installed a new intel Asrock P4V88 motherboard and a new Intel
2.8Ghz cpu, connected all the wires etc, switched on, but it won't power
up. The old board was for an AMD cpu which had died. I have tested the PSU
and that is working ok, in that the fan runs and I get an led lit up on a
tester.
I have pulled out the board, refitted it twice, but still no go.
The only thing that is different is that the Power LED connector is 2
wires on a 3 pin socket, and there are only 2 pins to connect it to.
I have also tried swapping the connections around in case I got it wrong
the first time, but still nothing. I have tried without the ram, but that
didn't help.

Any other ideas please?
Thanks

You said, "yes it works outside the case but when I put it back in..."
I`d say from that, that the board is touching down to the case when you fit
it. ???
best wishes..OJ

 

[Bob H]

You said, "yes it works outside the case but when I put it back in..."
I`d say from that, that the board is touching down to the case when you fit
it. ???
best wishes..OJ

OJ, yes it certainly is somewhere. I have insulated the screw mountings
and put it in, then tried it after each screw, then I found that the
short is bang in the middle somwhere, because if I put a screw in the
middle, it goes dead,but when I take that screw out it works ok.
Thanks

 

[w_tom]

The proper way to mount a motherboard to that plate is the
single point ground. Only one connection from motherboard
ground to steel plate. All others should be non-conductive
(ie nylon). The single connection from motherboard to chassis
is located adjacent to were IO and power supply connections
are located. This makes the entire system less susceptible to
crashes due to transients such as static electric discharges
to the case.

Intel even has specs for where this single electrical
connection should be located. Defined in a technical
descriptions for how ATX pc board layout. Long since lost the
spec, but the principles are well proven. Motherboard should
have only a single conductive connection to its mounting
plate.

 

[Bob H]

Can you tell me what a single point ground is in realtion to a
motherboard? Does it mean only one connection/standoff should be ground?
Thanks

 

[old jon]

Well done Bob. Put a piece of sturdy tape over that mounting point in the
case.
best wishes..OJ

 

[David Maynard]

Can you tell me what a single point ground is in realtion to a
motherboard? Does it mean only one connection/standoff should be ground?
Thanks

You can ignore that as modern motherboards intentionally have multiple
grounding points.

 

[Mike Hollywood]

why not just omit the offending screw?

You can ignore that as modern motherboards intentionally have multiple
grounding points.

 

[larry moe 'n curly]

OJ, yes it certainly is somewhere. I have insulated the screw mountings
and put it in, then tried it after each screw, then I found that the
short is bang in the middle somwhere, because if I put a screw in the
middle, it goes dead,but when I take that screw out it works ok.

If you want a screw there for better mechanical support, hardware and
electronics parts stores sell standoffs and screws made of nylon. A
snap-in nylon standoff (about the only plastic kind I've found at
computer stores) may also work, but you'll likely have to cut it off at
the bottom to get the right height.

 

[David Maynard]

why not just omit the offending screw?

I'd be willing to bet that, even though I'm sure he's checked, there's a
standoff in the wrong place underneath as it's easy enough to do.