Motherboard Power Problem

J

james.a.galloway

I just built a computer using parts from an old machine. P4 on a
Biostar P4M80-M4 motherboard. Everything runs great, but the
motherboard always seems to be on. I can shut down and the lights on
the front will eventually go off, but the monitor freezes on that
last
screen that says Windows is shutting down. Also, both the exhaust fan
and the CPU fan are always on. How can I get the motherboard to power
down?

Thanks,
James
 
R

Rod Speed

I just built a computer using parts from an old machine. P4 on a
Biostar P4M80-M4 motherboard. Everything runs great, but the
motherboard always seems to be on. I can shut down and the lights on
the front will eventually go off, but the monitor freezes on that last screen
that says Windows is shutting down. Also, both the exhaust fan and the
CPU fan are always on. How can I get the motherboard to power down?

Likely you didnt have the ACPI enabled in the bios when you
installed the OS if it isnt Win98SE. If it is SE, its notorious for that.
 
M

Mike T.

I just built a computer using parts from an old machine. P4 on a
Biostar P4M80-M4 motherboard. Everything runs great, but the
motherboard always seems to be on. I can shut down and the lights on
the front will eventually go off, but the monitor freezes on that
last
screen that says Windows is shutting down. Also, both the exhaust fan
and the CPU fan are always on. How can I get the motherboard to power
down?

Thanks,
James

Unplug computer. Remove the CMOS battery from the mainboard. Short the
clear_cmos jumper (somewhere near the battery) for about 30 seconds. Return
the clear_cmos jumper to the normal position. Reinstall the cmos battery.

If that doesn't work, then it's likely that your windows installation is
severely ****ed. BTW, I hope you did format that hard drive when you
assembled this system, right? -Dave
 
J

james.a.galloway

Ok, first of all, ACPI has been enabled the whole time and I'm running
XP Professional, so I think I'm good there.

2nd, I hope my Windows installation is ok. Everything runs great and
yes, I did format first.

I will try the the CMOS battery thing when I get home from work.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
J

james.a.galloway

Having never done this, I don't doubt you, but the instructions for
clearing the CMOS that came with the motherboard don't mention
anything about removing the CMOS battery. Why is this necessary?

Thanks
 
J

james.a.galloway

Having never done this before, I am not doubting you, but the mobo
instructions for clearing the CMOS do not mention removing the
battery. Why is this necessary?

Thanks
 
J

james.a.galloway

sorry for the double post


Having never done this before, I am not doubting you, but the mobo
instructions for clearing the CMOS do not mention removing the
battery. Why is this necessary?

Thanks
 
J

JAD

you don't have to pull the bat, only if the jumper can't be located or
doesn't exist.
unplug the power, move the jumper,wait 2 minutes, reset the jumper
 
M

Mike T.

Having never done this, I don't doubt you, but the instructions for
clearing the CMOS that came with the motherboard don't mention
anything about removing the CMOS battery. Why is this necessary?

Thanks

It's not, usually. It's just an extra step to make SURE no bogus settings
are left behind. -Dave
 
S

spodosaurus

Having never done this, I don't doubt you, but the instructions for
clearing the CMOS that came with the motherboard don't mention
anything about removing the CMOS battery. Why is this necessary?

Thanks

It isn't really. It does increase the chances of you accidentally
snapping the battery retainer clip, though...


--
spammage trappage: remove the underscores to reply
Many people around the world are waiting for a marrow transplant. Please
volunteer to be a marrow donor and literally save someone's life:
http://www.abmdr.org.au/
http://www.marrow.org/
 
J

james.a.galloway

The more I think about this, the more I think my power supply is
faulty. It was taken from a very old Dell.
 
R

Rod Speed

Having never done this before, I am not doubting you,
but the mobo instructions for clearing the CMOS do not
mention removing the battery. Why is this necessary?

It isnt, he mangled that bit completely.

He does that quite a lot, worth checking anything he suggests.
 
R

Rod Speed

The more I think about this, the more I think my power
supply is faulty. It was taken from a very old Dell.

It'd be unusual for a power supply to produce those symptoms.

On the other hand, you have eliminated the most likely other
causes now so it would be worth trying if you can do that cheaply.
 
J

james.a.galloway

I think it's the PS because the second I plug it in, everything
connected to it starts running. I don't even get a chance to hit the
ON button.
 
R

Rod Speed

I think it's the PS because the second I plug it in, everything connected
to it starts running. I don't even get a chance to hit the ON button.

OK, thats crucial detail you left out. That certainly indicates that
its the power supply that is the problem with the shutdown.
 
J

james.a.galloway

Yeah, sorry about that. This is only my 2nd computer to build and I've
never had a problem like this.
 
W

w_tom

Yeah, sorry about that. This is only my 2nd computer to build and I've
never had a problem like this.

All that 'try this and try that' could have been identified in less
than two minutes with a 3.5 digit multimeter - a $20 tool sold in most
every 'guys' store - and sometimes sold on sale for only $10. .

In your case, voltage on the purple wire (from power supply to
motherboard) is t measured when power cord is connected (and power
switch not pressed). That should measure more than 4.87 volts DC.
Next is green wire that must be more than 2 volts before power switch
is pressed AND less than 0.8 volts when switch is pressed.

Green wire will probably be first indication of trouble. Assuming
the green wire has not shorted to something else inside the power
supply, then power supply is not defective. Later we can confirm this
if (when) power supply is removed.

Lastly, measure voltage between two wires from power switch. This
should be well about 2.4 volts when switch is not pressed and drop to
near zero when switch is pressed. If yes, then we have traced the
problem directly to power supply controller on motherboard.

OK. Previously noted was that green wire inside that power supply
could have shorted - therefore override the power supply controller.
Lastly we verify this rare problem does not exist. Disconnect AC
power cord. Power supply disconnected from motherboard and meter put
into current measurement maybe at 2 amps DC. Now connect power supply
again to AC receptacle. Put meter probes from green wire to any black
wire. Power supply fan may start running. Switch meter to lower
current ranges until a current is measured. This green wire current
must measure less than 0.01 amps or 10 milliamps. If so, then problem
is definitely in power supply controller. If that green wire current
is significantly more than 10 ma, then something inside power supply
has shorted.

Since inputs to motherboard controller are OK (power switch wires
and purple wire), and since green wire current is not excessive, then
motherboard controller must be the problem. We have followed the
evidence to identify a defect. Now inspect power supply controller
area of motherboard for a physical problem (ie standoff shorted to PC
trace, a crack, or a bulging capacitor). However most all problems
leave no visible indication.

In maybe two minutes using the meter, a suspect is identified
without wasting all that time and money swapping parts.

Meanwhile, numbers from meter readings may provide other useful
information when posted - making replies also more useful.
 
R

Rod Speed

w_tom said:
(e-mail address removed) wrote
All that 'try this and try that' could have been identified
in less than two minutes with a 3.5 digit multimeter

You dont need a multimeter for this particular problem,
and it wouldnt have identified the problem anyway.

<reams of your mindless pig ignorant canned shit flushed where it belongs>
 

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