Diagnostic For My D-LINK DI-704P Router?

J

Jethro

I think my D-Link DI-704P router is failing. I cannot get a web
connection with it, even though the LEDs are blinking normally on the
router. My connection and my machine do work just fine without it,
connected directly to my external cable modem. But of course I have
lost my LAN since my two machines used to share files etc via the
router.

I would like to run a diagnostic on the router before I give up on it.
Does anyone know if (where) there is one? I have googl'ed for it, but
only find diagnostics for the DI-604.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Jethro
 
K

Kent_Diego

I think my D-Link DI-704P router is failing. I cannot get a web
connection with it, even though the LEDs are blinking normally on the
router. My connection and my machine do work just fine without it,
connected directly to my external cable modem. But of course I have
lost my LAN since my two machines used to share files etc via the
router.

If you "Clone MAC Address" of your computer's NIC it may help. When you
switch from direct to cable modem to using router you have to power-cycle
the cable modem as they have diffrent MAC address requiring new provisioning
from the ISP.
 
K

kony

I think my D-Link DI-704P router is failing. I cannot get a web
connection with it, even though the LEDs are blinking normally on the
router. My connection and my machine do work just fine without it,
connected directly to my external cable modem. But of course I have
lost my LAN since my two machines used to share files etc via the
router.

I would like to run a diagnostic on the router before I give up on it.
Does anyone know if (where) there is one? I have googl'ed for it, but
only find diagnostics for the DI-604.


So you had the DI-704P hooked up and were using it and it
began progressively dropping the connection more often, or
immediately?

As another poster mentioned, the MAC address differences
between it and the client system (PC) may be different but I
wouldn't expected if you had the DI-704 working previously,
it did have the correct MAC cloned or the ISP would allow
changing MAC.

I'd open it and inspect the capacitors. These small
passively cooled routers are hard on them over time. They
might have degraded too much without visible symptoms but if
they've vented it is obvious enough a problem... even if not
the direct problem.

It should support a HTTP interface from a browser so if the
cable modem shows a good connection, then check the
connection with it's interface. I was using one of those
and from what I vaguely recall, the firmware allows for
"some" of the models to have an analog, dialup modem support
so the HTTP interface might state something like "Modem -
Not Ready" but it doesn't refer to the cable modem, only
that it didn't detect a serial modem on a com part which
your modem may not have at all.

Beyond that there should be some indication of whether it
picked up the appropriate WAN IP address.

If you need to reset the router, see the manual for the
procedure. Sometimes the reset switch for power cycling has
a dual purpose if held in for longer period of time, while
it's on or while turning it on... that can vary but should
be in the manual.

If you've already done most or all of the above it might be
time to just replace it, now a basic wifi capable router can
be had for under $20 after rebates. They might not be the
best at wifi for that price but you can just disable the
wifi if you didn't need the extra access point functionality
from one.
 
J

Jethro

So you had the DI-704P hooked up and were using it and it
began progressively dropping the connection more often, or
immediately?

Hi - I had to go out of town Friday. Things are still the same with
the router. i.e. it did not get better.

I would say it dropped the connection gradually over a period of about
4 days. It happened twice, when it came back after a dead period of a
few hours. The third and last time, it would not come back. When I
connected a computer directly to the external modem, and re-cycled the
modem, it connect fine, and is connected right now. I did the same on
both computers with same good results.
As another poster mentioned, the MAC address differences
between it and the client system (PC) may be different but I
wouldn't expected if you had the DI-704 working previously,
it did have the correct MAC cloned or the ISP would allow
changing MAC.

I'd open it and inspect the capacitors. These small
passively cooled routers are hard on them over time. They
might have degraded too much without visible symptoms but if
they've vented it is obvious enough a problem... even if not
the direct problem.

Because of the router's age, I think I will replace it before going
into its innards. What do you think of the current 'modem routers'?
My modem is equally old.
It should support a HTTP interface from a browser so if the
cable modem shows a good connection, then check the
connection with it's interface. I was using one of those
and from what I vaguely recall, the firmware allows for
"some" of the models to have an analog, dialup modem support
so the HTTP interface might state something like "Modem -
Not Ready" but it doesn't refer to the cable modem, only
that it didn't detect a serial modem on a com part which
your modem may not have at all.

Beyond that there should be some indication of whether it
picked up the appropriate WAN IP address.

If you need to reset the router, see the manual for the
procedure. Sometimes the reset switch for power cycling has
a dual purpose if held in for longer period of time, while
it's on or while turning it on... that can vary but should
be in the manual.

I tried the D-Link's reset last Friday, and again today. Nothing
improved.
If you've already done most or all of the above it might be
time to just replace it, now a basic wifi capable router can
be had for under $20 after rebates. They might not be the
best at wifi for that price but you can just disable the
wifi if you didn't need the extra access point functionality
from one.

I am surprised that there doesn't appear to be software to diagnose a
router's connectablilty and the performance thereof. But c'est la
vie, I guess.

Thanks to both of you guys for your responses.

Jethro
 
K

kony

I would say it dropped the connection gradually over a period of about
4 days. It happened twice, when it came back after a dead period of a
few hours. The third and last time, it would not come back. When I
connected a computer directly to the external modem, and re-cycled the
modem, it connect fine, and is connected right now. I did the same on
both computers with same good results.

Ok, but did you power cycle the modem BEFORE switching
anything else, to rule it out too?

Maybe the router is bad, or maybe somebody somewhere hit a
cable line and it had an intermittent connection for a few
days (till enough people complained and a tech went and
fixed it). We can't know this, it's only one thought among
many- pick whatever seems to fit the situation.


Because of the router's age, I think I will replace it before going
into its innards.

Ok, but it's not a hard thing, a small phillips screwdriver
and a few screws. Well, I may be wrong there, I'm thinking
of the older 704 with the metal case but IIRC, they remade
some 704 with a plastic case too and I've never opened one
of those.

Also, especially if the ambient, room temp is higher than
previously, leaving the cover off the router would allow it
to run cooler, in case it was overheating. There is no high
voltage inside, the risk is minimal (unless something metal
were to fall inside and damage it, but at this point you're
already considering replacing it so it's not THAT big of a
risk.
What do you think of the current 'modem routers'?
My modem is equally old.

I don't know what you need, nor what they cost... I'd be
inclinded to get a regular modem like a Motorola Surfboard
5100/5120 and whatever router has the features you need. If
you have no particular special needs, check out a few at
newegg and watch the weekend newspapers for sales.

The other issue is that it may be more convenient or
logically better (depending on the location of the line to
the modem) to have the modem in one location and have it
wired to the other location for the router-as-switch/wifi to
then distribute to the rest of the systems or switches, etc,
on the premises.

The above doesn't make a combo modem/router a bad idea, it's
just not what I'd do... you could always try one if it seems
suitable for your needs.

I am surprised that there doesn't appear to be software to diagnose a
router's connectablilty and the performance thereof. But c'est la
vie, I guess.

I don't see why it would be needed. If you have the router
set to the defaults (and/or, reset) and the PC is shown to
connect to it, the router HTTP interface shows whether it's
connected across the WAN port. With this much working, you
can access a typical modem's config page, ping anything
further out on the WAN. If using the router you can reach
the modem, you have (usually) ruled out the router as the
source of the problem. If the modem has lights or a
statistics or status page, that too provides info as well as
the modem and router logs.

Also keep in mind that in general, when someone contacts
their ISP, the ISP will first assume the customer's
equipment is the problem, have them power cycle everything,
even in a case where it was their line going down. While it
could certainly be the customer equipment that is the
problem, they might be a little too quick to assume it is
since most people aren't going to be fooling around with
their modem and router once it works, OR if they had been
fooling around with it, it would then seem obvious that when
the connection went down, that was the cause.
 
J

Jethro

Ok, but did you power cycle the modem BEFORE switching
anything else, to rule it out too?

Okay - I tried to do things in a defined sequence.

I have a separate power supply to each of the computer, router, and
modem.

I powered down and then disconnected power to the router and modem/
With the computer OFF. I first powered up the modem. All
indicator-lights (power-receive-send-online) lit. but not Activity.

I then powered up the router. the modem's activity light started
blinking as normal after the router leds started blinking. The
router shows that I have a CAT5 connected to the proper port, that the
WAN is active, and M1 and M2 are both lit. I then powered up the
computer and started Eudora.

Guess what? The internet link is working!

I wonder if we (you) have solved the problem?

I will next start over and repeat the same sequence, but with
computer # 2 connected.

Let us pray...........
 
J

Jethro

Okay - I tried to do things in a defined sequence.

I have a separate power supply to each of the computer, router, and
modem.

I powered down and then disconnected power to the router and modem/
With the computer OFF. I first powered up the modem. All
indicator-lights (power-receive-send-online) lit. but not Activity.

I then powered up the router. the modem's activity light started
blinking as normal after the router leds started blinking. The
router shows that I have a CAT5 connected to the proper port, that the
WAN is active, and M1 and M2 are both lit. I then powered up the
computer and started Eudora.

Guess what? The internet link is working!

I wonder if we (you) have solved the problem?

I will next start over and repeat the same sequence, but with
computer # 2 connected.

Let us pray...........


Forget my last post. I tried same scenario with both machines
connected to the router, and it failed as before. Now I am back to a
direct connection from one machine to modem, sans the router entirely.

Still working on this.

Jethro
 
J

Jethro

Hey guys - This morning I decided to start out fresh and document my
setups step by step - with a view toward maybe understanding things
better. I thought I could post them for you to read and maybe see
something I am missing.

Guess what? Now that I am all done, my Internet connectivity
involving my two-machine LAN is working JUST FINE!

Why now, and not before, I have no idea. I am posting the info I
recorded just in case you might be interested and in case you might
offer some further help & advice.

1) PENTIUM Machine connected directly to Modem:

A) Modem Lights:
POWER - SOLID GREEN
RECEIVE - SOLID GREEN
SEND - SOLID GREEN
ONLINE - SOLID GREEN
ACTIVITY - BLINKING YELLOW
STANDBY - OFF

B) IPCONFIG INFO:

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:
Connection-specific DNS suffix:
IP Address .....................12.206.172.60
Subnet Mask .................. 255.255.255.0
IP Address ..................... fe80::2e0:18ff:feae:e0aa%4
Default Gateway ............. 12.206.192.1

Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface:
Connection Specific DNS Suffix:
IP Address ..................... fe80::5445:5245:444f%5
Default Gateway .............

Tunnel adapter 6to4 Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface:
Connection Specific DNS Suffix:
IP Address ..................... 2002:cce:c03c:cce:c03c
Default Gateway ............ 2002:c058:6301::c058:6301

Tunnel adapter Automatic Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface:
Connection Specific DNS Suffix:
IP Address ..................... fe80::5efe:12.206.192.60%2
Default Gateway ............

WXP>Control Panel>LAN CONNECTION STATUS:

IP Address .....12.206.102.60
Subnet Mask... 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway..... 12.206.192.1


2) PENTIUM Machine connected to DI-704P router PORT 1, then to Modem:

A) Modem Lights (Computer OFF) (Powered ON by itself) (same):
POWER - SOLID GREEN
RECEIVE - SOLID GREEN
SEND - SOLID GREEN
ONLINE - SOLID GREEN
ACTIVITY - BLINKING YELLOW
STANDBY - OFF

B) Router Lights (Computer OFF) (Powered ON with Modem ON):
POWER - SOLID GREEN
M1 - BLINKING YELLOW
M2 - OFF
WAN - BLINKING GREEN
LAN - SOLID GREEN
LINK/ACT - PORT 1 - SOLID GREEN

C) PENTIUM Computer turned ON:
Modem Lights remain same
Router Lights - Same except M2 - NOW SOLID YELLOW
Internet Connection Working Fine


D) IPCONFIG INFO:

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:
Connection-specific DNS suffix:
IP Address ..................... 192.168.0.166
Subnet Mask .................. 255.255.255.0
IP Address ..................... fe80::2e0:18ff:feae:e0aa%4
Default Gateway ........... 192.168.0.1

Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface:
Connection Specific DNS Suffix:
IP Address ..................... fe80::5445:5245:444f%5
Default Gateway .............

Tunnel adapter Automatic Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface:
Connection Specific DNS Suffix:
IP Address ..................... fe80::5efe:192.169.0.166%2
Default Gateway .............

E) WXP>Control Panel>LAN CONNECTION STATUS:

IP Address ..... 192.168.0.166
Subnet Mask... 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway..... 192.168.0.1

3) AMD Machine (turned OFF) connected to DI-704P router Port 4:

A) All Modem and Router Lights remain the same

B) AMD Machine turned ON:

Modem Lights = Same

Router Lights = Same except:

LINK/ACT - Port 4 - SOLID GREEN

C) IPCONFIG INFO:

PENTIUM Machine - Same
AMD Machine:

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:
Connection-specific DNS suffix:
IP Address ..................... 192.168.0.172
Subnet Mask .................. 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway ........... 192.168.0.1
D) WXP>Control Panel>LAN CONNECTION STATUS:

IP Address ..... 192.168.0.172
Subnet Mask... 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway..... 192.168.0.1


Internet Connection Working Fine

So - in conclusion - all is working fine right now. I just wish I
understood why it is working now, but not before - and how to
understand some of the above.

Thanks for your help.

Jethro
 

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