win xp to win7 question

[JS]

The multiplier (ratio) I think you mentioned is now at 5:8
What you need to do is slowly change the multiplier to
5:6 and then 5:5 if your motherboard allows for that ratio.

Going to 6:5 should increase the CPU speed even more.
Once you have a multiplier that gives the rated speed for your
processor (3.16GHz) any more changes will put you into
overclocking and it appears you have a CPU and Memory
that will overclock well, but one thing at a time. Remember to
make small FSB multiplier changes and use CPU-ID to see
what the results are after each change.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com

how come my core speed and multiplier are lower?

Debbie

E8500 uses a 1333MHz (333MHz quad pumped) FSB with a 9.5x multiplier

Intel Core 2 Duo E8500 Processor Review
The review includes a screen shot of CPUz/CPU-ID
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/668/1/

I have an E6700 and a Q6600 so I can't do a snapshot
for you.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com

No I'm not overclocking, I was told not to by the tech who put in the
processor.

this is the processor
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/5/26/37340/cpu.bmp

Debbie

At 534.3 and the FSBRAM 5:8 what is your
processor speed, as I suspect you are overclocking.

What is your processor model: Intel E????

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


okay I enabled and disabled the speedstep and I get the same readings
bus speed 334.0 and rated FSB 1335.9. I left it on disabled. Now for
the RAM. I read that article and I first had the voltage at 2.10 but
that article said 2.2 so I changed it. I went from setting it to
800MHZand timings as 4-4-4-12 and the CPUID read DRAM Freq 400.7 and
FSBRAM 5:6, then I went back and set it to the 1066 and back up to
5-5-5-15 and CPUID read DRAM Freq 534.3 and the FSBRAM 5:8. Which
is better? I'm assuming leaving it to were it was at 1066

Debbie

Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology How To Document:
http://www.intel.com/cd/channel/reseller/asmo-na/eng/203838.htm

If you read this article near the bottom of the page are two figures.
Figure #1 shows how "with SpeedStep enabled" you processor's
speed is reduced. This could account for the slow performance.

After you disable SpeedStep check CPU-ID again for reported
processor speed.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Oh and in my BIOS under Intel Speedstep tech Auto is CPU speed
controlled my operating system amd Disabled is default CPU speed.
Mine is set to enabled, Auto


Debbie


59.9 is good.

334 clock x4 = FSB 1336 (1335.9) = DDR2-667 Memory (PC 5300)
minimum
Use CPUID and click on the 'SPD' tab, this will display the info on
the memory
you currently have installed, look at the 'Timings table' to see if
your memory
sticks are rated to run at a 334 clock (frequency) rate.

Drive SMART values look OK.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Okay here's what I got, I downloaded the trial of HD Tune and my
average speed is 59.9, I'm assuming that is good. I already had
the CPUID and the bus speed was around 334.0 and rated FSB 1335.9.
That I don't understand. The Speed fan SMART status showed that my
drive was 4 normals, 1 good and the rest very good. Going to
check the BIOS next.


Debbie


First you have a SATA-II (300) hard drive.
Found mention on one web site about jumper
to drop the drive speed down to the slower SATA-I.
However found no mention of such a jumper on Samsung's
web site, instead it mentions software to control SATA Speed.

There is a utility I use named HD Tune
http://www.hdtune.com/
It checks drive transfer speed and you drive should be about
60MB/Sec or more at the start of the test, all drives
(Speed) fall off noticeably at the last 25%.

A good utility to check the drive's SMART status is
SpeedFan: http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php
Has an option to compare your drive's SMART values
to other drives of the same model.

Mother BIOS settings:
Download the user's manual (if you haven't already done so)
Check you BIOS settings for SATA and CPU speed control
options. Your BIOS could be set to throttle back the CPU
speed.

Use CPUID: http://www.cpuid.com/
Monitor's CPU clock rate in real time



--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


There is no system model because this was built by me.


SAMSUNG SP2504C [Hard drive] (250.06 GB)

c: (NTFS on drive 0) 81.52 GB 63.62 GB free
d: (NTFS on drive 0) 54.02 GB 48.29 GB free
e: (NTFS on drive 0) 54.43 GB 49.43 GB free
f: (NTFS on drive 0) 60.09 GB 50.69 GB free


Main Circuit Board b
3.15 gigahertz Intel Core2 Duo
64 kilobyte primary memory cache
6144 kilobyte secondary memory cache Board: ASUSTeK Computer
INC. P5K-V Rev 1.xx
Serial Number: MS1C76B89M00015
Bus Clock: 333 megahertz
BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 1002 06/18/2008


3328 Megabytes Installed Memory

Slot 'DIMM0' has 2048 MB
Slot 'DIMM1' is Empty
Slot 'DIMM2' has 2048 MB
Slot 'DIMM3' is Empty
Debbie



What the Make and model of
your existing hard drive?

Don't need to pry the case open to find
hard drive info. Just download, install and
run Belarc Advisor: http://www.belarc.com/free_download.html

Provide the Processor, Drives, System Model, Main Circuit Board
and Memory Modules information in your reply.

Using that info I should be able to tell you
what you need to know

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Well since I got my new processor and more RAM my programs
still don't open any faster. The tech told me I either have
to go RAID or a faster hard drive. I haven't seen 7,500
anyway but I can't imagine it being too much more faster than
my 7,200. I buy my stuff at newegg.com.

Debbie

15,000 RPM Enterprise level drives improves data access
times.
I would expect most 15,000 RPM drives to be SATA-II (3
Gbit/s)
which is the data transfer rate. Data transfer speed wins out
over RPM
in most cases for home computers.

The question is why you are looking at a 15000 RPM
drive as opposed to 7,500 or 10,000?

SATA 6 Gbit/s is the next generation and would expect it to
be
the fastest.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Well the thing is I build my own pc. I just upgraded the
cpu, power supply, RAM. The next thing I'll need to do
probably in a year or 2 is a new motherboard and hard drive.
Speaking of hard drives, I'm looking for a faster hard drive
so which one would be faster, a SATA 15,000 rpm or a SATA
3.0 gbls?

Debbie

message I don't see the cause for worry. Just stick with XP.
That's what I'm going to do. If and when the time ever
comes that you think you MUST upgrade to a new OS, as some
others have pointed out, maybe by that time you'll need a
new computer, anyway (with the new OS preinstalled), since
the demands on the computer hardware for a new OS keep
increasing.

Debbie Graham wrote:
I was so worried about installing xp that I love it now.
Even better than
my win 98. Maybe by that time another OS will be out. I
have so many
programs installed that the thought of reinstalling them
gives me the shivers
Debbie

message
You can stick with XP well beyond when its support date
runs out.

Debbie Graham wrote:
Oh crap. I hope it does by the time it goes on sale.
Otherwise I'll
just
stick with XP until it's support date runs out.

Debbie

To date XP is not "upgradeable" to W7 but Vista is.
Who knows by the time it actually goes on sale

peter

--
If you find a posting or message from me
offensive,inappropriate
or disruptive,please ignore it.
If you dont know how to ignore a posting complain
to me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate

message
okay I have XP that I upgraded ,not a full install
from win 98, just
the
upgrade. My question is, when Win7 comes out can I
still use the
upgrade
option or do I need to do a full install? I know
doing a full install
is
better but I can't afford a full version of any OS.
Also I have vista
on
my laptop that came preinstalled, could I just do a
upgrade and not a
full version install on that too?


Debbie

 

[Debbie Graham]

Paul I do have P5K-V BIOS 1002. I did find the CPU ratio control, now from
what CPUID is saying that my multiplier is x6.0. Do I want to change that
to a higher one? And how high? I have the EIST is disabled and I set my
power scheme to always on.

Debbie

how come my core speed and multiplier are lower?

Debbie

The multiplier is programmable. The 6 value is probably
the lowest of the range your processor supports.

If you've disabled EIST, then the processor should run at
the high multiplier. 9.5*333 = 3.166GHz. So you could have
an E8500.

http://processorfinder.intel.com/details.aspx?sSpec=SLAPK

Sometimes, the BIOS offers an option to control the multiplier,
and you could check there, to see if there is more to the interface
than just enable/disable for EIST.

"CPU Ratio Control" [Manual] allows manually defining the multiplier.

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socket775/P5K-V/e3269_p5k-v_manual.zip

You could check the "Power" scheme in the control panels,
and see if it is "Always On" or something that enables
a high power operating mode.

You could also check the support page for the motherboard,
and see what minimum version of BIOS supports the processor.

You could try the Intel Processor Identification Utility,
but surprisingly, it doesn't tell you everything you might
want to know about your purchase. On mine, it told me
EIST was not available, but that was a BIOS issue. A hacked
BIOS from Germany, fixed that for me. The Asus BIOS is
higher quality than that.

http://www.intel.com/support/processors/tools/piu/sb/CS-014921.htm

The Asus P5K-V needs BIOS 1002 or later, for the latest version of E8500.
The previous E8500 can use an older BIOS.

http://support.asus.com.tw/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us&model=p5k-v

Download page.

http://support.asus.com.tw/download/download.aspx?SLanguage=en-us&model=p5k-v

Paul

 

[Debbie Graham]

JS are you talking about the multiplier on my RAM, that's the one with the
5:8. Why and how would I lower it? First you said to lower but then you
mention the 6:5.............lol got me confused

Debbie

The multiplier (ratio) I think you mentioned is now at 5:8
What you need to do is slowly change the multiplier to
5:6 and then 5:5 if your motherboard allows for that ratio.

Going to 6:5 should increase the CPU speed even more.
Once you have a multiplier that gives the rated speed for your
processor (3.16GHz) any more changes will put you into
overclocking and it appears you have a CPU and Memory
that will overclock well, but one thing at a time. Remember to
make small FSB multiplier changes and use CPU-ID to see
what the results are after each change.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com

how come my core speed and multiplier are lower?

Debbie

E8500 uses a 1333MHz (333MHz quad pumped) FSB with a 9.5x multiplier

Intel Core 2 Duo E8500 Processor Review
The review includes a screen shot of CPUz/CPU-ID
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/668/1/

I have an E6700 and a Q6600 so I can't do a snapshot
for you.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


No I'm not overclocking, I was told not to by the tech who put in the
processor.

this is the processor
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/5/26/37340/cpu.bmp

Debbie

At 534.3 and the FSBRAM 5:8 what is your
processor speed, as I suspect you are overclocking.

What is your processor model: Intel E????

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


okay I enabled and disabled the speedstep and I get the same readings
bus speed 334.0 and rated FSB 1335.9. I left it on disabled. Now
for the RAM. I read that article and I first had the voltage at 2.10
but that article said 2.2 so I changed it. I went from setting it to
800MHZand timings as 4-4-4-12 and the CPUID read DRAM Freq 400.7 and
FSBRAM 5:6, then I went back and set it to the 1066 and back up to
5-5-5-15 and CPUID read DRAM Freq 534.3 and the FSBRAM 5:8. Which
is better? I'm assuming leaving it to were it was at 1066

Debbie

Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology How To Document:
http://www.intel.com/cd/channel/reseller/asmo-na/eng/203838.htm

If you read this article near the bottom of the page are two
figures.
Figure #1 shows how "with SpeedStep enabled" you processor's
speed is reduced. This could account for the slow performance.

After you disable SpeedStep check CPU-ID again for reported
processor speed.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Oh and in my BIOS under Intel Speedstep tech Auto is CPU speed
controlled my operating system amd Disabled is default CPU speed.
Mine is set to enabled, Auto


Debbie


59.9 is good.

334 clock x4 = FSB 1336 (1335.9) = DDR2-667 Memory (PC 5300)
minimum
Use CPUID and click on the 'SPD' tab, this will display the info
on the memory
you currently have installed, look at the 'Timings table' to see
if your memory
sticks are rated to run at a 334 clock (frequency) rate.

Drive SMART values look OK.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Okay here's what I got, I downloaded the trial of HD Tune and my
average speed is 59.9, I'm assuming that is good. I already had
the CPUID and the bus speed was around 334.0 and rated FSB
1335.9. That I don't understand. The Speed fan SMART status
showed that my drive was 4 normals, 1 good and the rest very
good. Going to check the BIOS next.


Debbie


First you have a SATA-II (300) hard drive.
Found mention on one web site about jumper
to drop the drive speed down to the slower SATA-I.
However found no mention of such a jumper on Samsung's
web site, instead it mentions software to control SATA Speed.

There is a utility I use named HD Tune
http://www.hdtune.com/
It checks drive transfer speed and you drive should be about
60MB/Sec or more at the start of the test, all drives
(Speed) fall off noticeably at the last 25%.

A good utility to check the drive's SMART status is
SpeedFan: http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php
Has an option to compare your drive's SMART values
to other drives of the same model.

Mother BIOS settings:
Download the user's manual (if you haven't already done so)
Check you BIOS settings for SATA and CPU speed control
options. Your BIOS could be set to throttle back the CPU
speed.

Use CPUID: http://www.cpuid.com/
Monitor's CPU clock rate in real time



--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


There is no system model because this was built by me.


SAMSUNG SP2504C [Hard drive] (250.06 GB)

c: (NTFS on drive 0) 81.52 GB 63.62 GB free
d: (NTFS on drive 0) 54.02 GB 48.29 GB free
e: (NTFS on drive 0) 54.43 GB 49.43 GB free
f: (NTFS on drive 0) 60.09 GB 50.69 GB free


Main Circuit Board b
3.15 gigahertz Intel Core2 Duo
64 kilobyte primary memory cache
6144 kilobyte secondary memory cache Board: ASUSTeK Computer
INC. P5K-V Rev 1.xx
Serial Number: MS1C76B89M00015
Bus Clock: 333 megahertz
BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 1002 06/18/2008


3328 Megabytes Installed Memory

Slot 'DIMM0' has 2048 MB
Slot 'DIMM1' is Empty
Slot 'DIMM2' has 2048 MB
Slot 'DIMM3' is Empty
Debbie



What the Make and model of
your existing hard drive?

Don't need to pry the case open to find
hard drive info. Just download, install and
run Belarc Advisor: http://www.belarc.com/free_download.html

Provide the Processor, Drives, System Model, Main Circuit
Board
and Memory Modules information in your reply.

Using that info I should be able to tell you
what you need to know

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Well since I got my new processor and more RAM my programs
still don't open any faster. The tech told me I either have
to go RAID or a faster hard drive. I haven't seen 7,500
anyway but I can't imagine it being too much more faster than
my 7,200. I buy my stuff at newegg.com.

Debbie

15,000 RPM Enterprise level drives improves data access
times.
I would expect most 15,000 RPM drives to be SATA-II (3
Gbit/s)
which is the data transfer rate. Data transfer speed wins
out over RPM
in most cases for home computers.

The question is why you are looking at a 15000 RPM
drive as opposed to 7,500 or 10,000?

SATA 6 Gbit/s is the next generation and would expect it to
be
the fastest.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Well the thing is I build my own pc. I just upgraded the
cpu, power supply, RAM. The next thing I'll need to do
probably in a year or 2 is a new motherboard and hard
drive. Speaking of hard drives, I'm looking for a faster
hard drive so which one would be faster, a SATA 15,000 rpm
or a SATA 3.0 gbls?

Debbie

message I don't see the cause for worry. Just stick with XP.
That's what I'm going to do. If and when the time ever
comes that you think you MUST upgrade to a new OS, as some
others have pointed out, maybe by that time you'll need a
new computer, anyway (with the new OS preinstalled), since
the demands on the computer hardware for a new OS keep
increasing.

Debbie Graham wrote:
I was so worried about installing xp that I love it now.
Even better than
my win 98. Maybe by that time another OS will be out. I
have so many
programs installed that the thought of reinstalling them
gives me the shivers
Debbie

message
You can stick with XP well beyond when its support date
runs out.

Debbie Graham wrote:
Oh crap. I hope it does by the time it goes on sale.
Otherwise I'll
just
stick with XP until it's support date runs out.

Debbie

To date XP is not "upgradeable" to W7 but Vista is.
Who knows by the time it actually goes on sale

peter

--
If you find a posting or message from me
offensive,inappropriate
or disruptive,please ignore it.
If you dont know how to ignore a posting complain
to me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate

message
okay I have XP that I upgraded ,not a full install
from win 98, just
the
upgrade. My question is, when Win7 comes out can I
still use the
upgrade
option or do I need to do a full install? I know
doing a full install
is
better but I can't afford a full version of any OS.
Also I have vista
on
my laptop that came preinstalled, could I just do a
upgrade and not a
full version install on that too?


Debbie

 

[Paul]

Paul I do have P5K-V BIOS 1002. I did find the CPU ratio control, now from
what CPUID is saying that my multiplier is x6.0. Do I want to change that
to a higher one? And how high? I have the EIST is disabled and I set my
power scheme to always on.

Debbie

You can look up the processor, on processorfinder.intel.com . This
is an example of an E8500.

http://processorfinder.intel.com/details.aspx?sSpec=SLAPK

The nominal value is 9.5. I don't know if the BIOS supports
fractional values or not, but you can have a look and see
if it will accept that value.

The multiplier, times the FSB clock, gives the core speed.
If your processor is 3.166GHz, then 333 * 9.5 will get you
there. Set the multiplier to 9.5 in the BIOS, and then see
if the value is correct in Windows.

I had to work a lot harder than you, to get control of mine
I had to wait until a guy in Germany figure out how to fix my
BIOS, so it would work properly. Thank goodness for hackers.

HTH,
Paul

 

[JS]

Page Xii and Section 4.4.3 your user's guide

Also:
http://www.techterms.com/definition/fsb

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com

JS are you talking about the multiplier on my RAM, that's the one with the
5:8. Why and how would I lower it? First you said to lower but then you
mention the 6:5.............lol got me confused

Debbie

The multiplier (ratio) I think you mentioned is now at 5:8
What you need to do is slowly change the multiplier to
5:6 and then 5:5 if your motherboard allows for that ratio.

Going to 6:5 should increase the CPU speed even more.
Once you have a multiplier that gives the rated speed for your
processor (3.16GHz) any more changes will put you into
overclocking and it appears you have a CPU and Memory
that will overclock well, but one thing at a time. Remember to
make small FSB multiplier changes and use CPU-ID to see
what the results are after each change.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com

how come my core speed and multiplier are lower?

Debbie

E8500 uses a 1333MHz (333MHz quad pumped) FSB with a 9.5x multiplier

Intel Core 2 Duo E8500 Processor Review
The review includes a screen shot of CPUz/CPU-ID
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/668/1/

I have an E6700 and a Q6600 so I can't do a snapshot
for you.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


No I'm not overclocking, I was told not to by the tech who put in the
processor.

this is the processor
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/5/26/37340/cpu.bmp

Debbie

At 534.3 and the FSBRAM 5:8 what is your
processor speed, as I suspect you are overclocking.

What is your processor model: Intel E????

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


okay I enabled and disabled the speedstep and I get the same
readings bus speed 334.0 and rated FSB 1335.9. I left it on
disabled. Now for the RAM. I read that article and I first had the
voltage at 2.10 but that article said 2.2 so I changed it. I went
from setting it to 800MHZand timings as 4-4-4-12 and the CPUID read
DRAM Freq 400.7 and FSBRAM 5:6, then I went back and set it to
the 1066 and back up to 5-5-5-15 and CPUID read DRAM Freq 534.3 and
the FSBRAM 5:8. Which is better? I'm assuming leaving it to were
it was at 1066

Debbie

Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology How To Document:
http://www.intel.com/cd/channel/reseller/asmo-na/eng/203838.htm

If you read this article near the bottom of the page are two
figures.
Figure #1 shows how "with SpeedStep enabled" you processor's
speed is reduced. This could account for the slow performance.

After you disable SpeedStep check CPU-ID again for reported
processor speed.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Oh and in my BIOS under Intel Speedstep tech Auto is CPU speed
controlled my operating system amd Disabled is default CPU speed.
Mine is set to enabled, Auto


Debbie


59.9 is good.

334 clock x4 = FSB 1336 (1335.9) = DDR2-667 Memory (PC 5300)
minimum
Use CPUID and click on the 'SPD' tab, this will display the info
on the memory
you currently have installed, look at the 'Timings table' to see
if your memory
sticks are rated to run at a 334 clock (frequency) rate.

Drive SMART values look OK.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Okay here's what I got, I downloaded the trial of HD Tune and my
average speed is 59.9, I'm assuming that is good. I already had
the CPUID and the bus speed was around 334.0 and rated FSB
1335.9. That I don't understand. The Speed fan SMART status
showed that my drive was 4 normals, 1 good and the rest very
good. Going to check the BIOS next.


Debbie


First you have a SATA-II (300) hard drive.
Found mention on one web site about jumper
to drop the drive speed down to the slower SATA-I.
However found no mention of such a jumper on Samsung's
web site, instead it mentions software to control SATA Speed.

There is a utility I use named HD Tune
http://www.hdtune.com/
It checks drive transfer speed and you drive should be about
60MB/Sec or more at the start of the test, all drives
(Speed) fall off noticeably at the last 25%.

A good utility to check the drive's SMART status is
SpeedFan: http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php
Has an option to compare your drive's SMART values
to other drives of the same model.

Mother BIOS settings:
Download the user's manual (if you haven't already done so)
Check you BIOS settings for SATA and CPU speed control
options. Your BIOS could be set to throttle back the CPU
speed.

Use CPUID: http://www.cpuid.com/
Monitor's CPU clock rate in real time



--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


There is no system model because this was built by me.


SAMSUNG SP2504C [Hard drive] (250.06 GB)

c: (NTFS on drive 0) 81.52 GB 63.62 GB free
d: (NTFS on drive 0) 54.02 GB 48.29 GB free
e: (NTFS on drive 0) 54.43 GB 49.43 GB free
f: (NTFS on drive 0) 60.09 GB 50.69 GB free


Main Circuit Board b
3.15 gigahertz Intel Core2 Duo
64 kilobyte primary memory cache
6144 kilobyte secondary memory cache Board: ASUSTeK Computer
INC. P5K-V Rev 1.xx
Serial Number: MS1C76B89M00015
Bus Clock: 333 megahertz
BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 1002 06/18/2008


3328 Megabytes Installed Memory

Slot 'DIMM0' has 2048 MB
Slot 'DIMM1' is Empty
Slot 'DIMM2' has 2048 MB
Slot 'DIMM3' is Empty
Debbie



What the Make and model of
your existing hard drive?

Don't need to pry the case open to find
hard drive info. Just download, install and
run Belarc Advisor: http://www.belarc.com/free_download.html

Provide the Processor, Drives, System Model, Main Circuit
Board
and Memory Modules information in your reply.

Using that info I should be able to tell you
what you need to know

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Well since I got my new processor and more RAM my programs
still don't open any faster. The tech told me I either have
to go RAID or a faster hard drive. I haven't seen 7,500
anyway but I can't imagine it being too much more faster
than my 7,200. I buy my stuff at newegg.com.

Debbie

15,000 RPM Enterprise level drives improves data access
times.
I would expect most 15,000 RPM drives to be SATA-II (3
Gbit/s)
which is the data transfer rate. Data transfer speed wins
out over RPM
in most cases for home computers.

The question is why you are looking at a 15000 RPM
drive as opposed to 7,500 or 10,000?

SATA 6 Gbit/s is the next generation and would expect it to
be
the fastest.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Well the thing is I build my own pc. I just upgraded the
cpu, power supply, RAM. The next thing I'll need to do
probably in a year or 2 is a new motherboard and hard
drive. Speaking of hard drives, I'm looking for a faster
hard drive so which one would be faster, a SATA 15,000 rpm
or a SATA 3.0 gbls?

Debbie

message I don't see the cause for worry. Just stick with XP.
That's what I'm going to do. If and when the time ever
comes that you think you MUST upgrade to a new OS, as some
others have pointed out, maybe by that time you'll need a
new computer, anyway (with the new OS preinstalled), since
the demands on the computer hardware for a new OS keep
increasing.

Debbie Graham wrote:
I was so worried about installing xp that I love it now.
Even better than
my win 98. Maybe by that time another OS will be out.
I have so many
programs installed that the thought of reinstalling them
gives me the shivers
Debbie

message
You can stick with XP well beyond when its support date
runs out.

Debbie Graham wrote:
Oh crap. I hope it does by the time it goes on sale.
Otherwise I'll
just
stick with XP until it's support date runs out.

Debbie

To date XP is not "upgradeable" to W7 but Vista is.
Who knows by the time it actually goes on sale

peter

--
If you find a posting or message from me
offensive,inappropriate
or disruptive,please ignore it.
If you dont know how to ignore a posting complain
to me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate

message
okay I have XP that I upgraded ,not a full install
from win 98, just
the
upgrade. My question is, when Win7 comes out can I
still use the
upgrade
option or do I need to do a full install? I know
doing a full install
is
better but I can't afford a full version of any OS.
Also I have vista
on
my laptop that came preinstalled, could I just do a
upgrade and not a
full version install on that too?


Debbie

 

[Debbie Graham]

Oh that, it's set on auto and it won't let me change it. I must have to
change something else to let me open it to manual

Debbie

Page Xii and Section 4.4.3 your user's guide

Also:
http://www.techterms.com/definition/fsb

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com

JS are you talking about the multiplier on my RAM, that's the one with
the 5:8. Why and how would I lower it? First you said to lower but then
you mention the 6:5.............lol got me confused

Debbie

The multiplier (ratio) I think you mentioned is now at 5:8
What you need to do is slowly change the multiplier to
5:6 and then 5:5 if your motherboard allows for that ratio.

Going to 6:5 should increase the CPU speed even more.
Once you have a multiplier that gives the rated speed for your
processor (3.16GHz) any more changes will put you into
overclocking and it appears you have a CPU and Memory
that will overclock well, but one thing at a time. Remember to
make small FSB multiplier changes and use CPU-ID to see
what the results are after each change.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


how come my core speed and multiplier are lower?

Debbie

E8500 uses a 1333MHz (333MHz quad pumped) FSB with a 9.5x multiplier

Intel Core 2 Duo E8500 Processor Review
The review includes a screen shot of CPUz/CPU-ID
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/668/1/

I have an E6700 and a Q6600 so I can't do a snapshot
for you.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


No I'm not overclocking, I was told not to by the tech who put in the
processor.

this is the processor
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/5/26/37340/cpu.bmp

Debbie

At 534.3 and the FSBRAM 5:8 what is your
processor speed, as I suspect you are overclocking.

What is your processor model: Intel E????

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


okay I enabled and disabled the speedstep and I get the same
readings bus speed 334.0 and rated FSB 1335.9. I left it on
disabled. Now for the RAM. I read that article and I first had the
voltage at 2.10 but that article said 2.2 so I changed it. I went
from setting it to 800MHZand timings as 4-4-4-12 and the CPUID read
DRAM Freq 400.7 and FSBRAM 5:6, then I went back and set it to
the 1066 and back up to 5-5-5-15 and CPUID read DRAM Freq 534.3 and
the FSBRAM 5:8. Which is better? I'm assuming leaving it to
were it was at 1066

Debbie

Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology How To Document:
http://www.intel.com/cd/channel/reseller/asmo-na/eng/203838.htm

If you read this article near the bottom of the page are two
figures.
Figure #1 shows how "with SpeedStep enabled" you processor's
speed is reduced. This could account for the slow performance.

After you disable SpeedStep check CPU-ID again for reported
processor speed.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Oh and in my BIOS under Intel Speedstep tech Auto is CPU speed
controlled my operating system amd Disabled is default CPU speed.
Mine is set to enabled, Auto


Debbie


59.9 is good.

334 clock x4 = FSB 1336 (1335.9) = DDR2-667 Memory (PC 5300)
minimum
Use CPUID and click on the 'SPD' tab, this will display the info
on the memory
you currently have installed, look at the 'Timings table' to see
if your memory
sticks are rated to run at a 334 clock (frequency) rate.

Drive SMART values look OK.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Okay here's what I got, I downloaded the trial of HD Tune and
my average speed is 59.9, I'm assuming that is good. I already
had the CPUID and the bus speed was around 334.0 and rated FSB
1335.9. That I don't understand. The Speed fan SMART status
showed that my drive was 4 normals, 1 good and the rest very
good. Going to check the BIOS next.


Debbie


First you have a SATA-II (300) hard drive.
Found mention on one web site about jumper
to drop the drive speed down to the slower SATA-I.
However found no mention of such a jumper on Samsung's
web site, instead it mentions software to control SATA Speed.

There is a utility I use named HD Tune
http://www.hdtune.com/
It checks drive transfer speed and you drive should be about
60MB/Sec or more at the start of the test, all drives
(Speed) fall off noticeably at the last 25%.

A good utility to check the drive's SMART status is
SpeedFan: http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php
Has an option to compare your drive's SMART values
to other drives of the same model.

Mother BIOS settings:
Download the user's manual (if you haven't already done so)
Check you BIOS settings for SATA and CPU speed control
options. Your BIOS could be set to throttle back the CPU
speed.

Use CPUID: http://www.cpuid.com/
Monitor's CPU clock rate in real time



--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


There is no system model because this was built by me.


SAMSUNG SP2504C [Hard drive] (250.06 GB)

c: (NTFS on drive 0) 81.52 GB 63.62 GB free
d: (NTFS on drive 0) 54.02 GB 48.29 GB free
e: (NTFS on drive 0) 54.43 GB 49.43 GB free
f: (NTFS on drive 0) 60.09 GB 50.69 GB free


Main Circuit Board b
3.15 gigahertz Intel Core2 Duo
64 kilobyte primary memory cache
6144 kilobyte secondary memory cache Board: ASUSTeK
Computer INC. P5K-V Rev 1.xx
Serial Number: MS1C76B89M00015
Bus Clock: 333 megahertz
BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 1002 06/18/2008


3328 Megabytes Installed Memory

Slot 'DIMM0' has 2048 MB
Slot 'DIMM1' is Empty
Slot 'DIMM2' has 2048 MB
Slot 'DIMM3' is Empty
Debbie



What the Make and model of
your existing hard drive?

Don't need to pry the case open to find
hard drive info. Just download, install and
run Belarc Advisor: http://www.belarc.com/free_download.html

Provide the Processor, Drives, System Model, Main Circuit
Board
and Memory Modules information in your reply.

Using that info I should be able to tell you
what you need to know

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Well since I got my new processor and more RAM my programs
still don't open any faster. The tech told me I either
have to go RAID or a faster hard drive. I haven't seen
7,500 anyway but I can't imagine it being too much more
faster than my 7,200. I buy my stuff at newegg.com.

Debbie

15,000 RPM Enterprise level drives improves data access
times.
I would expect most 15,000 RPM drives to be SATA-II (3
Gbit/s)
which is the data transfer rate. Data transfer speed wins
out over RPM
in most cases for home computers.

The question is why you are looking at a 15000 RPM
drive as opposed to 7,500 or 10,000?

SATA 6 Gbit/s is the next generation and would expect it
to be
the fastest.

--
JS
http://www.pagestart.com


Well the thing is I build my own pc. I just upgraded the
cpu, power supply, RAM. The next thing I'll need to do
probably in a year or 2 is a new motherboard and hard
drive. Speaking of hard drives, I'm looking for a faster
hard drive so which one would be faster, a SATA 15,000
rpm or a SATA 3.0 gbls?

Debbie

message I don't see the cause for worry. Just stick with XP.
That's what I'm going to do. If and when the time ever
comes that you think you MUST upgrade to a new OS, as
some others have pointed out, maybe by that time you'll
need a new computer, anyway (with the new OS
preinstalled), since the demands on the computer hardware
for a new OS keep increasing.

Debbie Graham wrote:
I was so worried about installing xp that I love it
now. Even better than
my win 98. Maybe by that time another OS will be out.
I have so many
programs installed that the thought of reinstalling
them
gives me the shivers
Debbie

message
You can stick with XP well beyond when its support
date runs out.

Debbie Graham wrote:
Oh crap. I hope it does by the time it goes on sale.
Otherwise I'll
just
stick with XP until it's support date runs out.

Debbie

To date XP is not "upgradeable" to W7 but Vista is.
Who knows by the time it actually goes on sale

peter

--
If you find a posting or message from me
offensive,inappropriate
or disruptive,please ignore it.
If you dont know how to ignore a posting complain
to me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate


message
okay I have XP that I upgraded ,not a full install
from win 98, just
the
upgrade. My question is, when Win7 comes out can I
still use the
upgrade
option or do I need to do a full install? I know
doing a full install
is
better but I can't afford a full version of any OS.
Also I have vista
on
my laptop that came preinstalled, could I just do a
upgrade and not a
full version install on that too?


Debbie

 

[Paul]

Oh that, it's set on auto and it won't let me change it. I must have to
change something else to let me open it to manual

Debbie

Try the "AI Overclocking" setting, and try [Manual].

That may unlock things for you, and allow adjusting the FSB.

If your default value is "333" for the FSB clock, try
changing it in tiny steps first. For example, 338 might
be a big enough change, so that you can detect the change
with a utility while in Windows later.

You multiply the FSB clock by 4, to get the FSB data rate.
333MHz clock gives FSB1333 data transfer rate. Since the
processor front side bus is 8 bytes wide, FSB1333 corresponds
to the ability to transfer 10664 MB/sec. For each
clock cycle, there are four data transfers on the bus,
and a data transfer is 8 bytes wide. It all adds up
quickly.

Paul

 

[Debbie Graham]

None of that work to unlock it, it just wants to stay at auto. I did change
the AI overclocking to the N.O.S setting at 3% overclock, check CPUID and it
says 9.5 and under my computer and properties processor from 3.16 to 3.18.
Is that the only way I'm going to get it at 9.5 is to overclock? DRAM still
says 5:8 too.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/5/26/37340/oc.jpg

http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/5/26/37340/intel.jpg

Debbie

 

[JS]

Your processor is now running at its rated speed.
You should see a noticeable improvement in performance
Yes/No?

I will post back shortly with two utilities that will
check the stability of your system.

 

[JS]

First try running Memtest86+,
this runs from a boot floppy or CD you need to create.
and should eliminate or confirm if your ram is good
when running at the speed you now are. I don't
expect any problems as the memory you purchased
should easily run at your PC current speed.
Let it run for as long as you can, 2 to 4 hours,
if no errors by then your ram passes what I call a
"Basic Test".
See: http://www.memtest.org/

Next is the torture test, it test both your CPU
and memory, again let it run for about 3 hours
and if it is still running (not in a Stopped state)
and has not reported any errors your good to go!
I would start "SpeedFan" before you run this test and
monitor your CPU temperature, you will know which of
the multiple temperatures readings displayed as soon
as you start the test as the CPU will start going up
in temperature.

Prime95 "Stress Test"
"FREE MERSENNE PRIME SEARCH SOFTWARE"
http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/

Download and unzip. It's a standalone .exe file
when you first start this program you will see
a "Welcome to GIMPS" window. bottom right click
on the "Just Stress Testing" button. In the
"Run a Torture Test" window select the "Blend"
option. Leave the "Number of threads to run"
at 2.

 

[Paul]

None of that work to unlock it, it just wants to stay at auto. I did change
the AI overclocking to the N.O.S setting at 3% overclock, check CPUID and it
says 9.5 and under my computer and properties processor from 3.16 to 3.18.
Is that the only way I'm going to get it at 9.5 is to overclock? DRAM still
says 5:8 too.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/5/26/37340/oc.jpg

http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/5/26/37340/intel.jpg

Debbie

What manual should do, is make certain settings appear in the BIOS.
When the "AI Overclocking" is set to [Auto], there may be few settings
showing in that BIOS screen. When [Manual] is used, you should see
"FSB Frequency". You should be able to place the cursor on that
item, then use the (+) or (-) keys to increase or decrease the value.
Use only a small adjustment at first, to prove you have control over
it.

It sounds though, like you've at least got a result now, that
bears some resemblance to nominal operation. The nominal values
should have been 9.5 * 333 = 3.166GHz. If the people at Asus could
do arithmetic, 3% on 333 would give 343MHz. That would also have
an impact on your RAM. 343 * 8/5 = 548.8MHz, times 2 = DDR2-1098.
I would have expected your RAM to be 3% over its rated DDR2-1066
as a result.

OK, at the risk of repeating what was posted previously.

"AI Overclocking" [Manual]
"CPU Ratio Control" [Manual]
"Ratio CMOS Setting" [9.5] <----- Use the (+) and (-) keys to set this
Intel SpeedStep Tech [Disabled] <----- So manual setting controls it

My idea there, is I don't want the FSB changed from 333MHz. I
don't want to use NOS. I just want to force the multiplier to
9.5 long enough, to verify you have some degree of control over
the computer you've built. By leaving the FSB at 333, the RAM
will also remain nominal at DDR2-1066.

If you want to continue to use the NOS setting, that is fine too.

After messing around, you'd use memtest86+ and Prime95, to verify
the RAM is really stable at 2.1V and DDR2-1098 caused by NOS 3%.
The reason for doing a memtest86+ test using a floppy or
CDROM, is to verify the system has some measure of stability.
If it doesn't, the Windows install could be corrupted on the
next boot attempt at DDR2-1098. If memtest86+ is error free
for a few passes, you can boot into Windows. The multithreaded
version of Prime95 is here, and I accept 4 hours of error
free stress testing as my stability criterion. Sometimes, I
even play a 3D game, while Prime95 is running, for an extra
thrashing. To do that, I adjust the amount of memory to test,
to leave some room for other programs to run.

http://www.memtest.org/

http://majorgeeks.com/Prime95_d4363.html

Have fun,
Paul