usb mouse loses its connection

[Neil]

i'm running windows xp sp2 on a dell inspiron 6400 laptop, and use a
logitech usb optical mouse (an older model; think I bought it like 5 years
ago -- was one of the first optical mice).

every once in a while, the mouse connection is lost. the little light on the
mouse goes out, and the mouse is non-functional. I pull the mouse plug out
of the usb socket and reinsert it, and windows see the mouse again.

at first I thought it was a problem with a particular usb port, since it
seemed to happen mostly with that one port. but lately i've been using it in
a different usb port (the laptop has 4), one which I've hardly ever used in
the 1 1/2 years I've had the laptop. So it's doubtful this other usb port is
damaged in any way. and yet the same thing happens in this other port.

the first thing that came to my mind was that I tugged on the mouse cord and
it caused the usb plug to move in the socket, so that windows lost the
connection. but when it's happened the past few times, i've checked the
mouse cord, and there is lots of slack. so it's not possible that the cord
tugged on the plug.

so what could this be? Is this a motherboard issue, related to the usb
ports? or a windows issue, where some drivers need to be reinstalled? or do
I just need to get a new mouse?

any help or assistance is appreciated. Thanks!

neil

 

[Dragomir Kollaric]

On 2008-08-17, Neil hit the keyboard and wrote:

so what could this be? Is this a motherboard issue, related to the usb
ports? or a windows issue, where some drivers need to be reinstalled? or do
I just need to get a new mouse?

Yeah get a new mouse they don't cost the world you know, one
cause I could think of is that the cable at the *mouse*
itself might be broken, not on the plug at the back. Hold
the mouse down and wiggle the cable coming out of it, maybe
its there. But I wouldn't spend much time with it, unless of
course you can handle a soldering-iron.

If this is a motherboard issue, then you could read trough
the manual if there is some jumper to set, but if this
happen to be on and off, I'd suspect the mouse.

any help or assistance is appreciated. Thanks!

neil

Dragomir Kollaric

 

[Neil]

On 2008-08-17, Neil hit the keyboard and wrote:



Yeah get a new mouse they don't cost the world you know, one
cause I could think of is that the cable at the *mouse*
itself might be broken, not on the plug at the back. Hold
the mouse down and wiggle the cable coming out of it, maybe
its there. But I wouldn't spend much time with it, unless of
course you can handle a soldering-iron.

If this is a motherboard issue, then you could read trough
the manual if there is some jumper to set, but if this
happen to be on and off, I'd suspect the mouse.

OK, that's good to know. I wiggled the cable coming out of the mouse, and
the mouse went on and off. But it came back on when the cable was left
alone, which is different than what I was experiencing, which is that it
stayed off. Nevertheless, I'll try a new mouse. thanks!

 

[smlunatick]

OK, that's good to know. I wiggled the cable coming out of the mouse, and
the mouse went on and off. But it came back on when the cable was left
alone, which is different than what I was experiencing, which is that it
stayed off. Nevertheless, I'll try a new mouse. thanks!

The wiggle test confirms that there is a problem within the cable.
There might be a "broken" wire which went left alone the gap is
closed. When it is move, the gap opens and the signals do not get
between the mouse / PC.

 

[Neil]

"The wiggle test confirms that there is a problem within the cable.
There might be a "broken" wire which went left alone the gap is
closed. When it is move, the gap opens and the signals do not get
between the mouse / PC."

yeah, i had it happen again last night, with the mouse turning off. I
adjusted the wire, and the mouse came back on. so that confirms it.

gosh i don't even know how long i've had this mouse. 5 years? 10 years? i
lose track of time. it was one of the first optical mice that logitech
produced, so it's pretty old.

my favorite thing about the mouse is that it has a 4th button the side,
where your thumb sits, which I use to go back in a web browser or windows
explorer. i'm so used to going back by just clicking with my thumb. i don't
think i can live without that.

 

[Paul]

"The wiggle test confirms that there is a problem within the cable.
There might be a "broken" wire which went left alone the gap is
closed. When it is move, the gap opens and the signals do not get
between the mouse / PC."

yeah, i had it happen again last night, with the mouse turning off. I
adjusted the wire, and the mouse came back on. so that confirms it.

gosh i don't even know how long i've had this mouse. 5 years? 10 years? i
lose track of time. it was one of the first optical mice that logitech
produced, so it's pretty old.

my favorite thing about the mouse is that it has a 4th button the side,
where your thumb sits, which I use to go back in a web browser or windows
explorer. i'm so used to going back by just clicking with my thumb. i don't
think i can live without that.

Someone who is handy with a soldering iron can fix this for you.

Typically, on electronics with a bad cable, you cut off the part
that has the break in it. And then pull some of the wire that
was outside the device, inside. And remake the connections by
stripping the wire and soldering the wire to the printed circuit
board. It means the cable ends up a bit shorter, but doesn't require
ordering any parts or anything.

Stripping wire requires some practice, and requires the right tools.
The wire stripper they offer at the hardware store, may not be
considered a "good" stripper, and people who do this stuff
regularly, will have tested a number of tools until they find
one they like.

I've maintained some old mice that way, even soldering replacement
microswitches or swapping housings between identical mice (some
plastic parts wear from all the button pushing). If you like a mouse
enough, there is no reason to part with it - at least until something
important breaks, like the optical sensor.

You could try asking at a TV repair, to see what they'd charge, if
you're not comfortable with soldering it yourself. Depending on the
mood they're in, maybe they'll give you a good deal on the repair
(like a labor charge for just the time involved). Part of the fun,
is finding the screws on the bottom of the mouse (one will be
hidden under a stick, and others could be up above the feet).
Some may only use one screw, and rely on a hinge structure to hold
the other end together. Usually, the sticker gets damaged when doing
the repair, but that isn't a big deal.

Paul

 

[Neil]

Someone who is handy with a soldering iron can fix this for you.

Typically, on electronics with a bad cable, you cut off the part
that has the break in it. And then pull some of the wire that
was outside the device, inside. And remake the connections by
stripping the wire and soldering the wire to the printed circuit
board. It means the cable ends up a bit shorter, but doesn't require
ordering any parts or anything.

Stripping wire requires some practice, and requires the right tools.
The wire stripper they offer at the hardware store, may not be
considered a "good" stripper, and people who do this stuff
regularly, will have tested a number of tools until they find
one they like.

I've maintained some old mice that way, even soldering replacement
microswitches or swapping housings between identical mice (some
plastic parts wear from all the button pushing). If you like a mouse
enough, there is no reason to part with it - at least until something
important breaks, like the optical sensor.

You could try asking at a TV repair, to see what they'd charge, if
you're not comfortable with soldering it yourself. Depending on the
mood they're in, maybe they'll give you a good deal on the repair
(like a labor charge for just the time involved). Part of the fun,
is finding the screws on the bottom of the mouse (one will be
hidden under a stick, and others could be up above the feet).
Some may only use one screw, and rely on a hinge structure to hold
the other end together. Usually, the sticker gets damaged when doing
the repair, but that isn't a big deal.

Paul

I might try that. I usually just replace electronics. There must be some
around with that 4th button still. But this might be a fun project anyway.
Thanks!

 

[Neil]

considering it was probably a $15 mouse back in

the day

I think you missed the part where I said it was one of the first optical
mice... Try $50! Yes, I know, I'm ashamed. But that's how much they cost
when they first came out, when they were "cutting edge technology." They
came down soon after that.

But even today, the basic Microsoft optical mouse (which I acutally like
better than my mouse, in terms of "feel"; but it doesn't have the 4th
button) cost $20.

But, in any case, I see your point.

It might still not be worth the time though, a cable here
and a microswitch there... adds up to more than the value of
the mouse, plus modern optical mice are so much more precise
than the early ones where.

Yeah, it would have to be for the fun of it mostly.

 

[Paul]

I think you missed the part where I said it was one of the first optical
mice... Try $50! Yes, I know, I'm ashamed. But that's how much they cost
when they first came out, when they were "cutting edge technology." They
came down soon after that.

But even today, the basic Microsoft optical mouse (which I acutally like
better than my mouse, in terms of "feel"; but it doesn't have the 4th
button) cost $20.

But, in any case, I see your point.


Yeah, it would have to be for the fun of it mostly.

In my case, I carefully maintained the item, because it was
relatively obscure. A plain three button mouse for X-windows,
with no scroll wheel or the like. Now that I'm not using
X-windows any more, this is a non-issue. I used the mouse
enough, to have worn down the plastic inside, for the left
mouse button (which is why I had to swap mechanical bits at
one point).

In your case, depending on how attached you are to the fourth
button, may determine what you do next. If you can find something
with the same configuration, then by all means buy a new one.
It is the cases where you want to keep things the same, where
you'll spend the time to fix it.

I guess I get a little disappointed, when I drop into Staples,
and all the mice look the same. If I want something a generation
older, I'll likely not find a match for it.

Paul

 

[Neil]

In my case, I carefully maintained the item, because it was
relatively obscure. A plain three button mouse for X-windows,
with no scroll wheel or the like. Now that I'm not using
X-windows any more, this is a non-issue. I used the mouse
enough, to have worn down the plastic inside, for the left
mouse button (which is why I had to swap mechanical bits at
one point).

In your case, depending on how attached you are to the fourth
button, may determine what you do next. If you can find something
with the same configuration, then by all means buy a new one.
It is the cases where you want to keep things the same, where
you'll spend the time to fix it.

I guess I get a little disappointed, when I drop into Staples,
and all the mice look the same. If I want something a generation
older, I'll likely not find a match for it.

Paul

Yeah, that's true. I looked around, and it seems that the Microsoft Optical
Mouse 3000
(http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/mouseandkeyboard/productdetails.aspx?pid=041)
might be very similar, though the red button on the side is up high, instead
of near the base of the mouse, as it is with my current mouse. Might take
some getting used to. But at least I'd have that side button.

Thanks!

Neil

 

[Neil]

Nothing wrong with spending the time, IF you really really
want the result but it was just a passing thought that mouse
performance has gotten so much better over time. Today's
laser mice blow away even those with twice the precision of
yours.

Yes, that's a good point. Always good to upgrade to new technology (well,
not always; but usually).