Linksys wrt54g Router Problem

W

wei

Someone gave me a Linksys wrt54g Router , but did not know if it
worked. I needed five network connections to my setup, four computers
plus a printer. (all CAT5'ed). My network has always worked just
fine, just one connection short, when I just used my Verizon router
modem.

So, I have CAT5'ed the Linksys to a CAT5 port on the Verizon. two
computers to the Linkksys, leaving two computers plus the printer
CAT5'ed to the Verizon.

I find that my setup networks just fine with the two computers still
connected to the Verizon, and so does the printer. No surprise.
However, the two computers CAT5'ed to the Linksys do not network. In
fact, I can't even connect to web URL's on those two computers any
more.

The Linksys may be bad I guess, but the front panel indicators seem to
be correct as shown in the Linksys WRT54G User Guide I downloaded :
Router power LED is on (green)
WLAN link LED is on (green)
Computer 1's LAN link/act LED is on (solid green)
Computer 2's LAN link/act LED is on (flickering green)
Computer 1's LAN full/col LED is on (solid green)
Computer 2's LAN full/col LED is on (solid green)
Computer 1's LAN 100 LED is on (solid yellow)
Computer 2's LAN 100 LED is on (solid yellow)
INTERNET link/act LED is on (flickering green)
INTERNET full/col LED is on (solid green)
INTERNET 100 LED is on (solid yellow)

I tried setting up the Linksys using info at:
http://www.columbia.edu/acis/networks/aptnet/linksys/index.html

I say all this in the hope someone out there may have this Linksys,
and have it working, and can maybe suggest what I am doing wrong or
what I can try. Telling me to pitch it is okay too, I guess.

xiexie
Wei
 
J

John McGaw

Someone gave me a Linksys wrt54g Router , but did not know if it
worked. I needed five network connections to my setup, four computers
plus a printer. (all CAT5'ed). My network has always worked just
fine, just one connection short, when I just used my Verizon router
modem.

So, I have CAT5'ed the Linksys to a CAT5 port on the Verizon. two
computers to the Linkksys, leaving two computers plus the printer
CAT5'ed to the Verizon.

I find that my setup networks just fine with the two computers still
connected to the Verizon, and so does the printer. No surprise.
However, the two computers CAT5'ed to the Linksys do not network. In
fact, I can't even connect to web URL's on those two computers any
more.

The Linksys may be bad I guess, but the front panel indicators seem to
be correct as shown in the Linksys WRT54G User Guide I downloaded :
Router power LED is on (green)
WLAN link LED is on (green)
Computer 1's LAN link/act LED is on (solid green)
Computer 2's LAN link/act LED is on (flickering green)
Computer 1's LAN full/col LED is on (solid green)
Computer 2's LAN full/col LED is on (solid green)
Computer 1's LAN 100 LED is on (solid yellow)
Computer 2's LAN 100 LED is on (solid yellow)
INTERNET link/act LED is on (flickering green)
INTERNET full/col LED is on (solid green)
INTERNET 100 LED is on (solid yellow)

I tried setting up the Linksys using info at:
http://www.columbia.edu/acis/networks/aptnet/linksys/index.html

I say all this in the hope someone out there may have this Linksys,
and have it working, and can maybe suggest what I am doing wrong or
what I can try. Telling me to pitch it is okay too, I guess.

xiexie
Wei
You don't need a second router; you need a switch. Multi-routing can
certainly be made to work but it isn't always an obvious process.
Fortunately it appears that it is easy to use the wrt54g as a switch, or so
the many articles on the web would suggest (never used one, personally). As
an example check out:

http://keystoneisit.blogspot.com/2008/03/how-to-set-up-wrt54g-as-switchbridge.html

On the other hand, you can buy a new switch for $10 if you are willing to
put up with 10/100mbps speed, no setup required beyond plugging it in.
 
W

wei

You don't need a second router; you need a switch. Multi-routing can
certainly be made to work but it isn't always an obvious process.
Fortunately it appears that it is easy to use the wrt54g as a switch, or so
the many articles on the web would suggest (never used one, personally). As
an example check out:

http://keystoneisit.blogspot.com/2008/03/how-to-set-up-wrt54g-as-switchbridge.html

On the other hand, you can buy a new switch for $10 if you are willing to
put up with 10/100mbps speed, no setup required beyond plugging it in.

Thank you - I'll check out the site.
xiexie ni

Wei
 
W

wei

You don't need a second router; you need a switch. Multi-routing can
certainly be made to work but it isn't always an obvious process.
Fortunately it appears that it is easy to use the wrt54g as a switch, or so
the many articles on the web would suggest (never used one, personally). As
an example check out:

http://keystoneisit.blogspot.com/2008/03/how-to-set-up-wrt54g-as-switchbridge.html

On the other hand, you can buy a new switch for $10 if you are willing to
put up with 10/100mbps speed, no setup required beyond plugging it in.

I can't get the thing to work.

I have 4 computers, 2 cat5'ed to the Verizon router, 2 to the Linksys.
The Linksys is cat5'ed to the Verizon. Their Ipaddresses, in order,
are
192.168.1.5
192.168.1.2
192.168.1.101
192.168.1.102

I can ping 2 from 5 and 5 from 2. I can ping 102 from 101 and 101
from 102. But I cannot ping 101 or 102 from 2 or 5. Nor the reverse.
I am stuck. I'll try googling for 'wrt54g as a switch' to see what I
might learn.

Xiexie

Wei
 
P

Paul

Grinder said:
I would try this:

1) Reset the Linksys router to factory settings.

2) Connect a machine directly to the router through one of the LAN ports
on the router. Do not have the router connected to any other network or
networking device.

3) Go to the router's configuration page using a browser, probably just
at the url of 192.168.1.1

4) Turn off the DHCP server on the router.

5) Power off the device, then hook an ethernet cable from a LAN port on
the router, to a LAN port on the Verizon device.

6) Plug any other devices you want into the remaining 3 LAN ports. At
no time should anything be plugged into the WAN port.

http://www.cguy.net/wireless_networking_guide/images/Linksys WRT54G back.jpg


This setup will effectively use the router as a switch.

If this is one of the routers that can be flashed with Tomato
or similar, the router could be quite a lot different than when
it left the factory. Using the procedure to return to factory
defaults, might actually be not even close to factory, because
the firmware is not the original firmware. So depending on the
router, there could be more variables involved, than the
obvious ones.

If "someone gave me a router", it could even be bricked by
the original owner screwing around with third-party firmware,
and having a failure during the firmware upgrade attempt. The larger
the RAM and EEPROM inside the thing, the more different third-party
firmwares are candidates for usage.

While you can attempt to give a recipe for recovery or restoring
operation, the recipe would also have to cover the case of an
original owner who was a hacker.

As well as the model number, like the wrt54g part, there could
be as many as five different hardware revisions. A revision with
less RAM or ROM, a different router chipset etc., might not be able
to take Tomato or similar.

If the original owner swears they didn't screw around with it,
restoration might go without a hitch. If the owner admits to
trying alternative firmwares, you could have quite a job on
your hands if no details at all are available. The more
details the original owner can give you, the less "research"
has to be done. If a router has such poor hardware inside, there
is no hacker interest, there are way fewer states it can end up in :)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomato_(firmware)

Paul
 
W

wei

Well this is where I stand this morning:

First, I only have two computers involved to simplify things.
I call them computer 1 and computer 4.
Computer 1 is cat5'ed to the Verizon router lan port 1.
Computer 4 is cat5'ed to the Linksys router lan port 4.
The Linksys router is cat5'ed from its internet port to the Verizon
router lan port 4.

Computer 1:
1) still has internet access - which is good and which remains okay.
2) has ipconfig address 192.168.1.5.
3) will ping 192.168.1.1 and 5 and 101.
4) will not ping 192.168.1.2 and 6.

Computer 4:
1) HAS NO internet access.
2) has ipconfig address 192.168.1.6.
3) will ping 192.168.1.1 and 6.
4) will not ping 192.168.1.2 and 101.

I did the steps repeated in red at the beginning here, including a
reset of the Linksys. DCHP is disabled.

Should the Linksys be set as a 'router' or the second choice? I
recall seeing that choice sometime in the past 24 hours, but I am
damned if I can find the choice now. Maybe that is the problem?

The Linksys front panel LEDs seem okay to me.

TIA for any ideas.

Xiexie

Wei
 
J

John McGaw

Well this is where I stand this morning:

First, I only have two computers involved to simplify things.
I call them computer 1 and computer 4.
Computer 1 is cat5'ed to the Verizon router lan port 1.
Computer 4 is cat5'ed to the Linksys router lan port 4.
The Linksys router is cat5'ed from its internet port to the Verizon
router lan port 4.

Computer 1:
1) still has internet access - which is good and which remains okay.
2) has ipconfig address 192.168.1.5.
3) will ping 192.168.1.1 and 5 and 101.
4) will not ping 192.168.1.2 and 6.

Computer 4:
1) HAS NO internet access.
2) has ipconfig address 192.168.1.6.
3) will ping 192.168.1.1 and 6.
4) will not ping 192.168.1.2 and 101.

I did the steps repeated in red at the beginning here, including a
reset of the Linksys. DCHP is disabled.

Should the Linksys be set as a 'router' or the second choice? I
recall seeing that choice sometime in the past 24 hours, but I am
damned if I can find the choice now. Maybe that is the problem?

The Linksys front panel LEDs seem okay to me.

TIA for any ideas.

Xiexie

Wei
You DO NOT want a second router in the system unless you really know what
you are doing -- it is a fine way of double insulating systems from outside
access but it can be confusing and it will limit connectivity (that is the
idea, after all). As I wrote in my first reply you don't want a second
router, you need a switch. Rather than try to figure out the welter of IP
addresses you quote, only two of which are identified, and giving myself a
headache may I suggest that you simply invest $10-20 and buy yourself a
no-nonsense switch of suitable speed for your system?
 
W

wei

You DO NOT want a second router in the system unless you really know what
you are doing -- it is a fine way of double insulating systems from outside
access but it can be confusing and it will limit connectivity (that is the
idea, after all). As I wrote in my first reply you don't want a second
router, you need a switch. Rather than try to figure out the welter of IP
addresses you quote, only two of which are identified, and giving myself a
headache may I suggest that you simply invest $10-20 and buy yourself a
no-nonsense switch of suitable speed for your system?

I found the place to change Gateway to Router, and I changed the
Linksys connection for the link cat5 to the Verizon router from
Internet to one of the unused Linksys lan ports. Now I find that I
can access the web from computer 4, and can file share computer 1
folders/files on computer 4 which I could do before all this. However
I cannot do the reverse - i.e. access folders/files on computer 4 from
computer 1. Yes, I rebooted both machines. Yes, I deleted and
re-created file sharing on computer 4 and re-booted just to see
whatever. Lastly, the two computers, 1 and 4, seem much slower now,
especially when computer 4 accesses the web or computer 1
folders/files.

I give up. I am going to seek out a cheap true two-port switch, and
see what I can do with that. As you suggested twice. Thank you for
helps.

Xiexie

Wei
 
P

Paul

wei said:
I found the place to change Gateway to Router, and I changed the
Linksys connection for the link cat5 to the Verizon router from
Internet to one of the unused Linksys lan ports. Now I find that I
can access the web from computer 4, and can file share computer 1
folders/files on computer 4 which I could do before all this. However
I cannot do the reverse - i.e. access folders/files on computer 4 from
computer 1. Yes, I rebooted both machines. Yes, I deleted and
re-created file sharing on computer 4 and re-booted just to see
whatever. Lastly, the two computers, 1 and 4, seem much slower now,
especially when computer 4 accesses the web or computer 1
folders/files.

I give up. I am going to seek out a cheap true two-port switch, and
see what I can do with that. As you suggested twice. Thank you for
helps.

Xiexie

Wei

I use one router here, and a separate switch. I selected a GbE capable
switch like this one, so that two computers connected to the switch
could transfer files at around 100MB/sec (best case). If the computers
you own, only have 10/100BT Ethernet, the switch will still work, as
it can negotiate the rates on each port.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122363

ADSL --- 4 port router ------- 4 port GbE switch ----- Computer #1
(Only 10/100BT) ----- Computer #2
-----
-----

If Computer #1 sends files to Computer #2, and both computers have GbE
gigabit Ethernet interfaces on them, the files transfer at around 100MB/sec.

If either computer web-surfs, it is limited by the poor ADSL speed,
and also by the 4 port router. So the path to the Internet (WAN)
isn't optimal, but there's no chance of me getting a fiber connection
to the Internet any time soon :)

Paul
 
W

wei

wei wrote:

I use one router here, and a separate switch. I selected a GbE capable
switch like this one, so that two computers connected to the switch
could transfer files at around 100MB/sec (best case). If the computers
you own, only have 10/100BT Ethernet, the switch will still work, as
it can negotiate the rates on each port.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122363

ADSL --- 4 port router ------- 4 port GbE switch ----- Computer #1
(Only 10/100BT) ----- Computer #2
-----
-----

If Computer #1 sends files to Computer #2, and both computers have GbE
gigabit Ethernet interfaces on them, the files transfer at around 100MB/sec.

If either computer web-surfs, it is limited by the poor ADSL speed,
and also by the 4 port router. So the path to the Internet (WAN)
isn't optimal, but there's no chance of me getting a fiber connection
to the Internet any time soon :)

Hi again Paul.

Is your 4 port router ------- 4 port GbE switch connection lan-port to
lan-port? I figure it is - just curious. This would mean you are
using three lan-ports on your GbE and one on your ADSL router.
Right?

You know, I tried to solve this problem some months ago with wireless,
since my Verizon router is wireless too. I bought and installed three
USB-Ethernet adapters. All three worked, and I was in business. For
3 weeks. Then the adapters all failed, one at a time, about a week
apart. Just thought I'd mention this.

Wei
 
P

Paul

wei said:
Hi again Paul.

Is your 4 port router ------- 4 port GbE switch connection lan-port to
lan-port? I figure it is - just curious. This would mean you are
using three lan-ports on your GbE and one on your ADSL router.
Right?

You know, I tried to solve this problem some months ago with wireless,
since my Verizon router is wireless too. I bought and installed three
USB-Ethernet adapters. All three worked, and I was in business. For
3 weeks. Then the adapters all failed, one at a time, about a week
apart. Just thought I'd mention this.

Wei

While I've drawn the GbE switch as if it has a WAN port, I think
it treats all ports the same. It uses some sort of broadcast and
learning processes, to control where the packets go on the switch.

One port on the router is shown as being used, but there are also other
things off the router. For no clear reason, sometimes I move connections
from the switch over to the router. It's possible one port on my switch
was flaky, and was blinking madly one day. I treat the ports as being
equal, except in cases where I'm moving a lot of files between computers
(a backup image), and then I make sure both computers are on the GbE one.

You can also get routers with GbE ports on them, and that might save
a couple of watts of electricity (fewer devices, fewer inefficient wall
adapters).

Paul
 
W

wei

While I've drawn the GbE switch as if it has a WAN port, I think
it treats all ports the same. It uses some sort of broadcast and
learning processes, to control where the packets go on the switch.

One port on the router is shown as being used, but there are also other
things off the router. For no clear reason, sometimes I move connections
from the switch over to the router. It's possible one port on my switch
was flaky, and was blinking madly one day. I treat the ports as being
equal, except in cases where I'm moving a lot of files between computers
(a backup image), and then I make sure both computers are on the GbE one.

You can also get routers with GbE ports on them, and that might save
a couple of watts of electricity (fewer devices, fewer inefficient wall
adapters).

Paul


Hey Paul -

I am thinking I should spring for a couple of wireless adapter cards,
PCI I guess. They gotta be better than the USB adapters I tried. Can
you suggest a good cheapie?

Xiexie

Wei
 
P

Paul

wei said:
Hey Paul -

I am thinking I should spring for a couple of wireless adapter cards,
PCI I guess. They gotta be better than the USB adapters I tried. Can
you suggest a good cheapie?

Xiexie

Wei

Your router has 802.11b/g on it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrt54g

A slight improvement, might be a router with 802.11n.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/802.11#802.11b

802.11b has a maximum raw data rate of 11 Mbit/s
802.11b devices suffer interference from other products
operating in the 2.4 GHz band. Devices operating in the 2.4 GHz
range include microwave ovens, Bluetooth devices, baby monitors,
cordless telephones and some amateur radio equipment.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/802.11#802.11g

802.11 operates at a maximum physical layer bit rate of 54 Mbit/s
exclusive of forward error correction codes, or about 22 Mbit/s
average throughput.

100BT Ethernet operates at 100Mbit/sec versus the rates previously stated.
So even the slower flavor of Ethernet might still be faster than the wireless.

*******

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/802.11#802.11n

802.11n operates at a maximum net data rate from 54 Mbits/s to 600 Mbits/s.

You're not likely to see the latter number, because the channel width and
spacing would likely stay in narrow mode in an urban area. Operation
will be in the low end, but better than the other two standards. I
don't know what the best rate achieved under laboratory conditions
was, but it's not likely to be 600.

*******

I don't think your router has WPA2 encryption on the router.
Just WPA. And WPA has been cracked.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wpa2#WPA2

https://www.wi-fi.org/knowledge-cen...rity-wi-fi-certified™-wpa2™-delivers-advanced

The main issue, isn't necessarily listening in on your Wifi packets.
Security is there to prevent someone sitting in a car outside your
house, from downloading a movie via Wifi. If one of the litigious
movie companies finds out, and logs the IP, you could receive
a shakedown letter from a lawyer, asking for money. To prevent
that from happening, either disable the radio on the router, or
use the best security available for Wifi routers.

*******

If you want to shop for Wifi adapters, search on Newegg, then sort the
adapters by "best rating". That way, the most popular adapter
will be listed first. And you're more likely to be happy with it.
Once you know what model looks good, then you can shop elsewhere,
like even buying the adapter at a local mom&pop computer store. I've lost
just about all the computer stores where I live, and the only thing
left is an Apple Store in the mall (Yikes!).

Paul
 
W

wei

Your router has 802.11b/g on it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrt54g

A slight improvement, might be a router with 802.11n.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/802.11#802.11b

802.11b has a maximum raw data rate of 11 Mbit/s
802.11b devices suffer interference from other products
operating in the 2.4 GHz band. Devices operating in the 2.4 GHz
range include microwave ovens, Bluetooth devices, baby monitors,
cordless telephones and some amateur radio equipment.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/802.11#802.11g

802.11 operates at a maximum physical layer bit rate of 54 Mbit/s
exclusive of forward error correction codes, or about 22 Mbit/s
average throughput.

100BT Ethernet operates at 100Mbit/sec versus the rates previously stated.
So even the slower flavor of Ethernet might still be faster than the wireless.

*******

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/802.11#802.11n

802.11n operates at a maximum net data rate from 54 Mbits/s to 600 Mbits/s.

You're not likely to see the latter number, because the channel width and
spacing would likely stay in narrow mode in an urban area. Operation
will be in the low end, but better than the other two standards. I
don't know what the best rate achieved under laboratory conditions
was, but it's not likely to be 600.

*******

I don't think your router has WPA2 encryption on the router.
Just WPA. And WPA has been cracked.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wpa2#WPA2

https://www.wi-fi.org/knowledge-cen...rity-wi-fi-certified™-wpa2™-delivers-advanced

The main issue, isn't necessarily listening in on your Wifi packets.
Security is there to prevent someone sitting in a car outside your
house, from downloading a movie via Wifi. If one of the litigious
movie companies finds out, and logs the IP, you could receive
a shakedown letter from a lawyer, asking for money. To prevent
that from happening, either disable the radio on the router, or
use the best security available for Wifi routers.

*******

If you want to shop for Wifi adapters, search on Newegg, then sort the
adapters by "best rating". That way, the most popular adapter
will be listed first. And you're more likely to be happy with it.
Once you know what model looks good, then you can shop elsewhere,
like even buying the adapter at a local mom&pop computer store. I've lost
just about all the computer stores where I live, and the only thing
left is an Apple Store in the mall (Yikes!).

Paul


Thanks Paul.

Since last post, things have changed for the better here,
I found two Linksys wireless PCI adapters in my 'scrap heap' of stuff
'I anticipate needing sometime'. They lacked antennas, but the
antennas on my defunct USB-Ethernet adapters fit - screwed on nicely.
I installed the PCI cards and downloaded/installed the Linksys
drivers, and now I have wireless access from two machines, which is
enough right now.

The side benefit of now being able to password protect my V router is
something I have wanted to do to keep outsiders off my access, and now
I have it and it seems to work nicely also.

Now I have to see how this affects my W7 laptop, which is wireless of
course. I'll bet I will have to tell it the new password - that's the
whole idea isn't it?

Zaigien
Wei
 
W

wei

Thanks Paul.

Since last post, things have changed for the better here,
I found two Linksys wireless PCI adapters in my 'scrap heap' of stuff
'I anticipate needing sometime'. They lacked antennas, but the
antennas on my defunct USB-Ethernet adapters fit - screwed on nicely.
I installed the PCI cards and downloaded/installed the Linksys
drivers, and now I have wireless access from two machines, which is
enough right now.

The side benefit of now being able to password protect my V router is
something I have wanted to do to keep outsiders off my access, and now
I have it and it seems to work nicely also.

Now I have to see how this affects my W7 laptop, which is wireless of
course. I'll bet I will have to tell it the new password - that's the
whole idea isn't it?

Zaigien
Wei

Uhoh!

The laptop immediately started wireless access, like it always has,
and web-access also works fine, as it always has. So why is that?
Shouldn't it not have, so I could be required to supply the new
password? It says the wireless security is WEP which it was.
What am I missing here?

Xiexie
Wei
 

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