Wind tunnel effect through house to cool electronics.

[Skybuck Flying]

Hello,

This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment:

Step 1. I open the front door.

Step 2. I open the back window.

Result: Wind tunnel effect.

Wind goes through the house, immediatly cooling it down and getting rid of
filthy nasty smelly air (As long as not too much cars/bussess/trucks
outside... otherwise stinky gasses)

Maybe this effect could be used in new houses/appertments/buildings.

Make little tunnels in the houses which act like wind tunnels.

Hot air from processors go into the tunnel and then hopefully a wind tunnel
effect will occur.

Hot air likes to go to cool air outside... which probably results in the
wind tunnel effect ?

Or otherwise use the wind outside to blow through it... channel the air into
the tubes *

It works for me on a big scale

Bye,
Skybuck.

 

[shortT]

Hello,

This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment:

Step 1. I open the front door.

Step 2. I open the back window.

Result: Wind tunnel effect.

Wind goes through the house, immediatly cooling it down and getting rid of
filthy nasty smelly air (As long as not too much cars/bussess/trucks
outside... otherwise stinky gasses)

Maybe this effect could be used in new houses/appertments/buildings.

Make little tunnels in the houses which act like wind tunnels.

Hot air from processors go into the tunnel and then hopefully a wind tunnel
effect will occur.

Hot air likes to go to cool air outside... which probably results in the
wind tunnel effect ?

Or otherwise use the wind outside to blow through it... channel the air into
the tubes *

It works for me on a big scale

Bye,
  Skybuck.

There is a fan you can buy for a house that goes up in the attic.
I believe it is called a "total house fan". If you leave the attic
door open
and allow the fan to draw warm air out of the house.. it cools it
substantially
however if there is a fire your house burns down much quicker.

shortT

 

[Skybuck Flying]

There is a fan you can buy for a house that goes up in the attic.

I believe it is called a "total house fan". If you leave the attic
door open
and allow the fan to draw warm air out of the house.. it cools it
substantially
however if there is a fire your house burns down much quicker.

Hmm interesting theory.

I lived in a house with an air-ventilation system and it used hot air to
warm the house.

The air goes in from the top, goes through the attic, is warmed there... (or
is warmed down below?)... then it goes down through tubes and warms the
house. (I could be mistaken but I thought that's how it worked)

I guess such a system would supply fresh oxygen and just maybe, just maybe
the house would burn down a little bit quicker... ohoh.

Well better not to start a fire... but there are combatting systems for
that... like smoke detectors... and maybe house could be equiped with water
hoses... wow <- wet house sucks though hehe.

Problem with smoke detectors is their batteries run out... and then they
start beeping which gets annoying... and then people will probably not
bother to replace the batteries... or don't even understand why it's beeping


It would need to be build into the house electric supply... but then what if
the electricity falls out... then ofcourse it won't work... so I guess this
is what you call a catch 24. Batteries suck and eletricity net could fail.
Hehehe.

Maybe smoke detectors which can automatically load themselfes via solar
panels that would be nice.

Bye,
Skybuck.

 

[Skybuck Flying]

But then again... it's rare that electricity fails...

So I guess it's safe to simply connect the smoke detectors to the
electricity... and then simply have batteries as a backup...

But how does one know if the battery/backup system really works during
eletricity fail out ?

Hmmm it must be a closed circuit so to speak without failling back on a
secondary system... It must be one main system:

So requirements:

1. The eletricity must come from the batteries.

2. The batteries must be charged at the same time when eletricity net is
available.

3. There must be some way to know if batteries can last a few hours when
eletricity fails because for a example the house is on fire

So I guess connecting smoke detectors to the electricity net could work
after all

Bye,
Skybuck

 

[housetrained]

Be no good in my other place, the outside is well in the hundred's this time
of year.

 

[Don Phillipson]

But then again... it's rare that electricity fails...

So I guess it's safe to simply connect the smoke detectors to the
electricity... and then simply have batteries as a backup...

But how does one know if the battery/backup system really works during
eletricity fail out ?

Hmmm it must be a closed circuit so to speak without failling back on a
secondary system... It must be one main system:

So requirements:

1. The eletricity must come from the batteries.

2. The batteries must be charged at the same time when eletricity net is
available.

3. There must be some way to know if batteries can last a few hours when
eletricity fails because for a example the house is on fire

So I guess connecting smoke detectors to the electricity net could work
after all

Battery-only smoke detectors are safer, so
long as you replace the (9-volt) batteries every 18
months or less. They use no significant power
when idle: but the battery charge declines (very
slowly.) When needed, the battery need power
the alarm for only two minutes or however long it
takes to alert the family and identify whether the
alarmm betokens real danger. Firemen tell you,
whenever in doubt, simply get out (and ring 911.)
If the house does not burn down, a new battery
is sufficiently cheap.

 

[housetrained]

The ones we have emit an annoying intermittent beep before the battery runs
flat - great as you are warned.

 

[Jamie]

The newer smoke detectors, with Lithium batteries, will last about
8-10 years. For example:
<http://smokesign.com/10yearlitbat.html>

The AC powered smoke detector backup battery lasts about 8-10 years.
That's roughly the self-discharge shelf life of the alkaline battery.
The battery is only used when the AC power fails. One nice feature on
some of these AC powered alarms is that they can be wired together. If
there's a fire in a remote part of the house, the alarm will blast in
all parts of the house. They are usually wired to the burglar alarm.

I recently replaced one smoke detector because they would trigger on
my cooking. They have an "alarm silencer" button, which temporarily
disables the smoke alarm for about 10 minutes. Very handy.

Maybe the smoke detector is trying to tell you something !



http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[Skybuck Flying]

In this day and age you even trust leaving your apartment door open?

Yes it's the balcony door.

Thiefs would have to climb from balkony to balkony high up in the sky... and
risk falling to death.

Very difficult climb ! =D

Bye,
Skybuck.

 

[Eeyore]

"Skybuck Flying" > Hello,


There is a fan you can buy for a house that goes up in the attic.
I believe it is called a "total house fan". If you leave the attic
door open
and allow the fan to draw warm air out of the house.. it cools it
substantially
however if there is a fire your house burns down much quicker.

To the best of my knowledhe they are essentially unknown of in Europe since house
cooling is certainly rather less of a problem for us, at least in N Europe.

Graham

 

[shortT]

Hmm interesting theory.

I lived in a house with an air-ventilation system and it used hot air to
warm the house.

The air goes in from the top, goes through the attic, is warmed there... (or
is warmed down below?)... then it goes down through tubes and warms the
house. (I could be mistaken but I thought that's how it worked)

I guess such a system would supply fresh oxygen and just maybe, just maybe
the house would burn down a little bit quicker... ohoh.

Well better not to start a fire... but there are combatting systems for
that... like smoke detectors... and maybe house could be equiped with water
hoses... wow <- wet house sucks though hehe.

Problem with smoke detectors is their batteries run out... and then they
start beeping which gets annoying... and then people will probably not
bother to replace the batteries... or don't even understand why it's beeping


It would need to be build into the house electric supply... but then whatif
the electricity falls out... then ofcourse it won't work... so I guess this
is what you call a catch 24. Batteries suck and eletricity net could fail..
Hehehe.

Maybe smoke detectors which can automatically load themselfes via solar
panels that would be nice.

Bye,
  Skybuck.

You could have them on AC power but with rechargeable batteries as a
back up.
I think the new fire alarms use rf to talk to one another as well.
Interesting... using warm air from the attic to heat your house.
Thanks for sharing that.

shortT

 

[bRAINS]

Hello,

This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment:

Step 1. I open the front door.

Step 2. I open the back window.

Result: Wind tunnel effect.

Wind goes through the house, immediatly cooling it down and getting rid of
filthy nasty smelly air (As long as not too much cars/bussess/trucks
outside... otherwise stinky gasses)

Maybe this effect could be used in new houses/appertments/buildings.

Make little tunnels in the houses which act like wind tunnels.

Hot air from processors go into the tunnel and then hopefully a wind tunnel
effect will occur.

Hot air likes to go to cool air outside... which probably results in the
wind tunnel effect ?

Or otherwise use the wind outside to blow through it... channel the air into
the tubes *

It works for me on a big scale

Bye,
  Skybuck.

I purchased a single air-conditioning unit for my machines.....

Over clocked (over cooked more like), however local AMD and P4 are
well happy, the planet fries in the mean time?

Need I say more?
braiNs

 

[Jamie]

Of course, but I never get the clue until after dinner is incinerated.
The problem is in the scheduler for my multitasking. It's not
pre-emtive and it's ignoring interrupts. I'm usually reading email or
usenet news while cooking dinner. It takes a while and I find it
boring to just stare at the oven, pan, or pot while it cooks. So, I
get immersed in something else, only to find my dinner incinerated. It
happens often enough that I now prefer my dinners well done. I'm sure
a clock timer would reduce the incidence of carbonization, but I
detest being on a rigid schedule and refuse to let such time
regimentation into the house. A sand hour glass or water clock would
be acceptable, but are rather awkward to adjust.

Sounds like the reliable scheduling of windows Processes and threads!


http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[shortT]

  'Whole house fan' and they are required to have a self closing shutter
that closes if there is a fire.  They are normally mounted in the
ceiling at the center of a house, so it can pull the hottest air from
near the ceilings, and force it through the attic to replace the hotter
air above the ceiling.  The grill and shutter are mounted flush to the
ceiling, with the fan, shroud and motor sitting on top.  they were VERY
common in Florida decades ago, but have pretty much disappeared because
of Central air.  They cooled the house a lot, but pulled in lots of
moisture, pollen, mold and dust.

--http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account:http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

Sporadic E is the Earth's aluminum foil beanie for the 'global warming'
sheep.

Thanks for the info.

shortT

 

[Charlie]

Air is a rather lousy thermal conductor:
<http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html>
You could do better to cool your house with water, which has 20 times
the thermal conductivity. The procedure is similar to using air
cooling.
1. Close all the doors and windows.
2. Seal all the outlets, drains, and cracks.
3. Turn on all the faucets and allow the house to fill with water.

I believe this will be counter-productive. Instead of turning on all the
faucets, turn on only the cold water ones.

4. When full and adequately cooled, drain the water outside.
5. Repeat as necessary to cool the house and electronics.

Liquid whole-house immersion cooling may be a bit excessive for your
application. Therefore, a hybrid approach, such as spraying your
electronics with a water hose, where the mechanism is evaporative
cooling, might be more appropriate. It also uses less water.

Another hybrid approach would be plumbing. The liquid would be
transported through various size pipes and hoses, accumulate the heat,
and empty it outside via a suitable radiator. Such water cooling is
commonly used in high end over-clocked PC game machines.

It is also possible to operate some electronics under water. This
requires low impedance design, which is not particularly efficient,
but useful for such applications like marine radios. You could
analyze the schematic to see if immersion cooling is possible, or you
could simply run a test by dumping your electronics in a water bucket.
If successful, simply emptying the bucket outside is equivalent to
dumping the heat.

Why not use distilled water. It does not conduct electricity and your
computer should work just fine while submerged. Just ask your local water
company to switch to distilled water

Charlie

 

[Martin Griffith]

I believe this will be counter-productive. Instead of turning on all the
faucets, turn on only the cold water ones.


Why not use distilled water. It does not conduct electricity and your
computer should work just fine while submerged. Just ask your local water
company to switch to distilled water

Charlie

Not quite, as soon as the ever so pure water hits the PCB, it will
start absorbing stuff, like metals, not much, but enough and will soon
become somewhat conductive.

Water is a really good solvent, why do you think we need skin?


martin

 

[Rich Grise]

This is what I do to cool down and vent my appertment:

Step 1. I open the front door.

Step 2. I open the back window.

Result: Wind tunnel effect.

Wind goes through the house, immediatly cooling it down and getting rid of
filthy nasty smelly air (As long as not too much cars/bussess/trucks
outside... otherwise stinky gasses)

Maybe this effect could be used in new houses/appertments/buildings.

It's called Cross-Ventilation, and people have been doing it since the
back door was invented.

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Skybuck Flying]

Interesting... using warm air from the attic to heat your house.

Thanks for sharing that.

Don't think too much off it. There was probably some heating device up
there.

I also wrote the air might have been warmed down below as well I am not sure


Bye,
Skybuck.

 

[Skybuck Flying]

Yeah but it only works when the inside is warm and the outside is cold.

For example:

Hot summer days, followed by colder summer days.

The buildings were warmed up by the hot summer days/sun and need lots of
days to cool down.

Thus the inside of the buildings still warm up.

So open both doors and let the colder air come in... too cool things down.

That's what I was talking about mostly

Other situation can ofcourse be hot computers and hot people making the room
warm/hot

Or even both situations at the same time !

However during hot hot hot hot summer days... people are switching to air
conditioning systems which require power

Bye,
Skybuck.

 

[z]

Not quite, as soon as the ever so pure water hits the PCB, it will
start absorbing stuff, like metals, not much, but enough and will soon
become somewhat conductive.

Water is a really good solvent, why do you think we need skin?

martin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

fill your house with freon. very well behaved stuff. except in the
atmosphere.