Thermal paste application

[Howard]

I am prepating to build my first PC. I have a Gigabyte 8KNXP
motherboard and an Intel P4 3.0GHz chip...haven't opened them yet. I
am hoping someone can help me out with how to correctly apply the
thermal paste to the chip after insertion into the motherboard. I
know it sounds simple, but it is an unknown to someone that has not
done it before.

Some initial questions that I have:

Is it obvious what location or portion of the back of the chip should
be coated?

How thick a coating?

Do you put a glob in the middle and put the heatsink on and allow the
weight of the heatsink to determine the thickness of the smear and let
the rest ooze out from between them?

If an initial thin layer is preferred, where do you put the initial
glob and how do you smear it out before applying the heatsink?

Presumably, even if you only apply a thin layer of paste there will
still be some oozing out with the pressure from the heatsink
application and lockdown. What do you do with what oozes out, leave
it there or wipe it off with something ? Can what oozes out cause a
problem if you don't get it all off etc?

Any reason to use any thermal paste other than what Intel supplies
with the chip?

I have heard of thermal tape, which sounds less messy but is it as
effective and where does one get it from, as I can not seem to find it
anywhere. My inclination is to stick with what Intel gives you, but
if this is not optimal I would love to know it ahead of time.

Thanks for any help.

Howard

 

[JAD]

here is the easiest thing , open the CPU box and don't open the thermal paste, as it is not necessary.
The retail P4 comes with a more than adequate HSF that anything else would be overkill. My opinion, determined by numerous installs
with no 'extras' needed.

 

[spodosaurus]

I am prepating to build my first PC. I have a Gigabyte 8KNXP
motherboard and an Intel P4 3.0GHz chip...haven't opened them yet. I
am hoping someone can help me out with how to correctly apply the
thermal paste to the chip after insertion into the motherboard. I
know it sounds simple, but it is an unknown to someone that has not
done it before.

Some initial questions that I have:

Is it obvious what location or portion of the back of the chip should
be coated?

Open the CPU box and look at the bottom of the heat sink. There should
be a thermal pad there. This will negate the need for thermal paste.
If you ever remove the heat sink or wiggle it around to break up the
thermal pad's interface with the CPU die after it has melted in place
when you first run the new system, THEN you'll need to clean off the pad
and apply thermal paste, but not before.

How thick a coating?

For future reference, you may wish to bookmark this instructional guide
from Arctic Silver (it applies to all thermal paste/grease preparations,
not just Arctic Silver products):

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

Any reason to use any thermal paste other than what Intel supplies
with the chip?

Check and see if Intel supplied a thermal paste/grease or if there's a
thermal pad attached to the underside of the Intel supplied heat sink.
Intel should also have included instructions on installing the heat
sink: follow them (your motherboard probably has similar instructions
included with it).

I have heard of thermal tape, which sounds less messy but is it as
effective and where does one get it from, as I can not seem to find it
anywhere.

As I've said above, it should be included pre-attached to the heat sink.
There will be some clear tape on one side of the thermal pad to
prevent it from sticking to things during shipping. Remove the tape as
per Intel's instruction sheet and attach the heat sink and fan to the
CPU according to the instructions supplied with either the CPU or the
motherboard (or both).

My inclination is to stick with what Intel gives you, but
if this is not optimal I would love to know it ahead of time.

It's fine, easy, and less messy to use the thermal pad. If in the
future something disrupts the thermal pad after it has melted onto the
CPU die (such as shipping or travelling with the computer and it is
subjected to a jostle that causes the heatsink to shift, even if the
heat sink shifts back) then clean off the pad and apply thermal paste,
otherwise the paste/grease is unneccessary at this point.

Ari

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on the recipient list. Visit www.marrow.org or call your local Red Cross
and ask about registering to be a bone marrow donor.

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[jeffc]

I am prepating to build my first PC. I have a Gigabyte 8KNXP
motherboard and an Intel P4 3.0GHz chip...haven't opened them yet. I
am hoping someone can help me out with how to correctly apply the
thermal paste to the chip after insertion into the motherboard. I
know it sounds simple, but it is an unknown to someone that has not
done it before.

Some initial questions that I have:

Is it obvious what location or portion of the back of the chip should
be coated?

How thick a coating?

Do you put a glob in the middle and put the heatsink on and allow the
weight of the heatsink to determine the thickness of the smear and let
the rest ooze out from between them?

If an initial thin layer is preferred, where do you put the initial
glob and how do you smear it out before applying the heatsink?

Presumably, even if you only apply a thin layer of paste there will
still be some oozing out with the pressure from the heatsink
application and lockdown. What do you do with what oozes out, leave
it there or wipe it off with something ? Can what oozes out cause a
problem if you don't get it all off etc?

Any reason to use any thermal paste other than what Intel supplies
with the chip?

I have heard of thermal tape, which sounds less messy but is it as
effective and where does one get it from, as I can not seem to find it
anywhere. My inclination is to stick with what Intel gives you, but
if this is not optimal I would love to know it ahead of time.

As someone else mentioned, it might not be necessary. IME, a *correct*
application of thermal grease is best, but a *poor* application is worse
than none at all. I would apply a thinnish layer, but not so thin that the
step below doesn't work. Also, make the layer as level as possible. It
should be evenly covered, all over the CPU. Don't rely on the "oozing" to
completely cover the CPU surface later. You can use your finger. Now, the
trick is to lay the heatsink down correctly. If you just plop it straight
on, it is likely there will be air bubbles. Touch one edge, then slowly
lower it like a hinge, trying to make contace with the thermal grease the
whole way. I think this is better than thermal tape, but you can't go wrong
with applying thermal tape. Wipe off what oozes out. If none oozes out,
you didn't use enough. If you have to redo it, make sure the next layer is
again very flat, with no air bubbles.

 

[S.SubZero]

here is the easiest thing , open the CPU box and don't open the thermal paste, as it is not necessary.
The retail P4 comes with a more than adequate HSF that anything else would

be overkill. My opinion, determined by numerous installs

with no 'extras' needed.

That's odd, since all the retail 3.0's I've opened come with a small syringe
of thermal paste and do NOT have the black thermal pad on the HSF.

---

If the heatsink has a black thermal pad on the bottom, just use that, and
don't use paste. If you open the box and there's a small syringe of paste,
you'll be using it. They explain in the manual how to do it, but just
incase...

The chip has a heat spreader plate on it, so this vastly increases the
coverage area. But it actually makes the job easier. Put a small amount of
paste near the middle, just a little blob. Then, using a credit card or
something of similar thickness and flexibility, gently spread the blob over
the entire heat spreader. The idea is to get a nice thin glaze. The paste
is not supposed to be sandwiched like ketchup on a hamburger. It should
also not go anywhere except on the heat spreader (the silver raised area!).
The heat spreader should be able to make contact with the heat sink, and the
paste acts more like a filler, filling in the very small imperfections in
the heat spreader's and heatsink's surfaces. There shouldn't be enough on
there for it to ooze out the sides.

-SSZ

 

[JAD]

retail? I have only seen one of those that came with paste...don't remember the exact speed..


yes that was a 3.0 and the others were 2.8b's and down don't have any more 3.0's or better to look....I'll watch that....

 

[spodosaurus]

paste, as it is not necessary.


be overkill. My opinion, determined by numerous installs



That's odd, since all the retail 3.0's I've opened come with a small syringe
of thermal paste and do NOT have the black thermal pad on the HSF.

Does the syringe come with just enough thermal paste to do the job, or
does it contain an excess? I just looked at an installation .pdf file
from the Intel website and it doesn't offer much in the way of specifics
about this point. Are the installation notes that accompany the CPU any
better in this regard?

Ari

---

If the heatsink has a black thermal pad on the bottom, just use that, and
don't use paste. If you open the box and there's a small syringe of paste,
you'll be using it. They explain in the manual how to do it, but just
incase...

The chip has a heat spreader plate on it, so this vastly increases the
coverage area. But it actually makes the job easier. Put a small amount of
paste near the middle, just a little blob. Then, using a credit card or
something of similar thickness and flexibility, gently spread the blob over
the entire heat spreader. The idea is to get a nice thin glaze. The paste
is not supposed to be sandwiched like ketchup on a hamburger. It should
also not go anywhere except on the heat spreader (the silver raised area!).
The heat spreader should be able to make contact with the heat sink, and the
paste acts more like a filler, filling in the very small imperfections in
the heat spreader's and heatsink's surfaces. There shouldn't be enough on
there for it to ooze out the sides.

-SSZ

--

Are you registered as a bone marrow donor? You regenerate what you
donate. You are offered the chance to donate only if you match a person
on the recipient list. Visit www.marrow.org or call your local Red Cross
and ask about registering to be a bone marrow donor.

spam trap: replace shyah_right! with hotmail when replying

 

[JAD]

grabbed the box out of the trash,, little or nothing on the pamphlet(shows a pic of 'where' it goes), I think this is all that it
came with. There isn't much in the tube and I didn't use all of it maybe 2/3.

 

[Craig]

I am prepating to build my first PC. I have a Gigabyte 8KNXP
motherboard and an Intel P4 3.0GHz chip...haven't opened them yet. I
am hoping someone can help me out with how to correctly apply the
thermal paste to the chip after insertion into the motherboard. I
know it sounds simple, but it is an unknown to someone that has not
done it before.

Some initial questions that I have:

Is it obvious what location or portion of the back of the chip should
be coated?

How thick a coating?

Do you put a glob in the middle and put the heatsink on and allow the
weight of the heatsink to determine the thickness of the smear and let
the rest ooze out from between them?

If an initial thin layer is preferred, where do you put the initial
glob and how do you smear it out before applying the heatsink?

Presumably, even if you only apply a thin layer of paste there will
still be some oozing out with the pressure from the heatsink
application and lockdown. What do you do with what oozes out, leave
it there or wipe it off with something ? Can what oozes out cause a
problem if you don't get it all off etc?

Any reason to use any thermal paste other than what Intel supplies
with the chip?

I have heard of thermal tape, which sounds less messy but is it as
effective and where does one get it from, as I can not seem to find it
anywhere. My inclination is to stick with what Intel gives you, but
if this is not optimal I would love to know it ahead of time.

Thanks for any help.

Howard

Arctic Silver III is considered best thermal paste you can buy.
Below is instructions on how to install.
This is the proper way to install any Thermal Paste.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

Craig

 

[jeffc]

The heat spreader should be able to make contact with the heat sink, and the
paste acts more like a filler, filling in the very small imperfections in
the heat spreader's and heatsink's surfaces. There shouldn't be enough on
there for it to ooze out the sides.

Technically anything that oozes out is mere waste. The problem is, you
can't be sure you've got enough in there to fill in the air gaps unless you
use a little too much. If none oozes out, you won't have any idea if you
used exactly the right amount, or too little.

 

[Timothy Daniels]

Technically anything that oozes out is mere waste. The problem is, you
can't be sure you've got enough in there to fill in the air gaps unless you
use a little too much. If none oozes out, you won't have any idea if you
used exactly the right amount, or too little.

If you follow the Arctic Silver instructions (i.e. spreading on a film just
thick enough to discolor the surface), the small gap and the viscosity
of the paste would probably prevent any "oozing". This comment taken
from the instructions is indicative of the thickness of the layer of paste:

"The flatter the mating surfaces, the thinner the layer that is required.
Stock processors and/or heatsinks with normal surface irregularities
will require a layer 0.003" to 0.005" thick as shown below to fill the
resultant gaps. (Equal to the thickness of about 1 sheet of standard
weight paper.) Properly lapped heatsinks with mirror finishes will only
require a translucent haze."


*TimDaniels*

 

[HMSDOC]

Thanks very much folks...will have to open the CPU box this weekend and see if
there is paste or thermal tape in there.

Howard

 

[Conor Turton]

here is the easiest thing , open the CPU box and don't open the thermal paste, as it is not necessary.
The retail P4 comes with a more than adequate HSF that anything else would be overkill. My opinion, determined by numerous installs
with no 'extras' needed.

Only a retard doesn't use thermal pads or paste when fitting a HSF to a
CPU.

 

[Conor Turton]

Some initial questions that I have:

Is it obvious what location or portion of the back of the chip should
be coated?

Yes..the square bit.

How thick a coating?

Very thin. Place a blob about the size of a small pea on the HS and
spread evenly. Place a really small blob on the CPU core and spread
evenly.

Do you put a glob in the middle and put the heatsink on and allow the
weight of the heatsink to determine the thickness of the smear and let
the rest ooze out from between them?
No.

If an initial thin layer is preferred, where do you put the initial
glob and how do you smear it out before applying the heatsink?

Presumably, even if you only apply a thin layer of paste there will
still be some oozing out with the pressure from the heatsink
application and lockdown. What do you do with what oozes out, leave
it there or wipe it off with something ? Can what oozes out cause a
problem if you don't get it all off etc?

Leave it.

Any reason to use any thermal paste other than what Intel supplies
with the chip?

Some claim to be better. If you're not overclokcing, use the Intel one.

I have heard of thermal tape, which sounds less messy but is it as
effective and where does one get it from, as I can not seem to find it
anywhere. My inclination is to stick with what Intel gives you, but
if this is not optimal I would love to know it ahead of time.

Some HSFs come with thermal pads attached.

 

[JAD]

conor,

DUH!!!!

Only a retard doesn't use thermal pads or paste when fitting a HSF to a
CPU.

 

[w_tom]

Arctic Silver III is considered best thermal paste you can
buy because ... it is equivalent to most every other thermal
compound; but at something like 10 times the price. Arctic
Silver does noteven provide thermal conductivity numbers.
Why bother? They are not selling to people who first want
facts. They are selling to those more influenced by
propaganda and hype

Thermal paste fills microscopic holes between CPU and
heatsink. That means very little thermal compound is
required. Best thermal conductivity means heat transfer
between fewer materials. Best thermal conductivity is direct
from CPU to heatsink. Any thermal compound that interferes
with that direct 'CPU to heatsink' contact only decreases heat
removal and thermal conductivity. Again, thermal compound is
only to fill those microscopic air gaps - where heatsink does
not contact CPU. Thermal compound must not obstruct the
'direct CPU to heatsink' connections.

Apply only enough thermal compound so that it spreads thin
in middle half of CPU. If too much compound is applied - if
it oozes out - then thermal compound also obstructs contact
between CPU and heat sink. Furthermore, thermal compound
oozing out and getting on CPU contact pins means potential
electrical problems. Never apply so much thermal compound as
to ooze out. Never.

Apply no thermal compound, too little, or perfect amount.
All is good. But too much compound means less thermal
conductivity and other possible problems. Thermal compound on
CPU pins is a serious problem.

Almost all heat from CPU to heatsink is in center of CPU.
No reason to put thermal compound where it covers outer one
half of CPU surface. Virtually no heat is transferred on
CPU's outside edges. Thermal compound is only effective in
center of CPU. Just another reason to minimize application.

Thermal compound creates a minor improvement in thermal
conductivity. IOW if heatsink was properly manufactured, then
thermal compound results in a less than 10 degree temperature
improvement. In fact, if thermal compound results in more
than a 10 degree improvement, then that heatsink either should
be considered defective or is improperly applied.

There is nothing magic or necessary about thermal compound.
Many 'feel' compound is always necessary. Facts say
otherwise. More important than thermal compound is the
'degree C per watt' spec number for that heatsink. But again
we are back to the first point. Where are the numbers? No
numbers is often associated with recommendations based only on
propaganda and hype. Thermal conductivity number for thermal
compound is necessary for honesty. But a far more important
number is the thermal conductivity of that heatsink - 'degree
C per watt'.

 

[W7TI]

Never apply so much thermal compound as
to ooze out. Never.

_________________________________________________________

Bovine feces. The compound MUST ooze out a tiny amount or you haven't
put enough on. One thing you failed to mention is the mating surfaces
must be under constant pressure, either from spring clamps as is done
with CPUs, or nut and bolt as is done with other components. And when
you have pressure, you will have some ooze. It should be a very small
amount, but it must be there or one can not be sure all gaps are filled.

I worked as a Manufacturing Engineer in the aircraft electronics
industry for years, and I assure you that anything assembled your way
would be instantly rejected. When people's lives are at stake, we in
the industry do not fool around trying to guess whether there is enough
there or not. You might get away with it on a CPU in your home computer
but why take a chance of not having enough? Do it right.

 

[Timothy Daniels]

Never apply so much thermal compound as
to ooze out. Never.

Bovine feces. The compound MUST ooze out a tiny amount
or you haven't put enough on. [.....]

You dispute the directions given by Arctic Silver, then?


*TimDaniels*

 

[W7TI]

You dispute the directions given by Arctic Silver, then?

_________________________________________________________

If you mean the directions at

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

I don't see anything there I'd disagree with.

 

[Timothy Daniels]

If you mean the directions at

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

I don't see anything there I'd disagree with.

I mean the following passage at that link which implies
that a properly thin layer of thermal paste (perhaps thin
enough be a mere haze) wouldn't be able to ooze out:

"The flatter the mating surfaces, the thinner the layer that is
required. Stock processors and/or heatsinks with normal
surface irregularities will require a layer 0.003" to 0.005"
thick as shown below to fill the resultant gaps. (Equal to
the thickness of about 1 sheet of standard weight paper.)
Properly lapped heatsinks with mirror finishes will only
require a translucent haze."

Maybe a layer of paste 0.003" thin would, indeed, ooze,
I don't know, but I doubt whether a "translucent haze" would
ooze. And I suspect the usual height of suface irregularities
that are encountered are much smaller than the thickness of a
sheet of paper, which implies that most paste layers should be
thinner than a sheet of paper to get the least thermal resistance.

Personally, my intuition tells me to put a small bead in the
middle (such as half a grain of short rice) and squirm it around
while applying pressure so as to work out as much paste as
possible and to prevent bubbles, which, in my opinion, get
easily trapped if one tilts the faces together. But Arctic Silver
says that such a squirming or lapping procedure would knock
off peaks of the irregularities, making large gaps for the paste
to fill in. I wonder if the semiconductor industry has made a
study of this and whether it's reflected in Arctic Silver's
recommended procedure.

*TimDaniels*