Sony VAIO PCV-RX670 Desktop Freezes

[EdwardATeller]

My Sony VAIO PCV-RX670 desktop started freezes the other day. I put a
cd in the drive, and the cursor froze, and I had to power cycle.
Spent a ton of time trying to fix the problem. Swapped in a backup OS
hard drive. Ran lots of virus checks. Updated the BIOS. Took the
battery out to reset CMOS. Tested the RAM. None of this helped or
revealed any problem.

The one thing that helps is removing the CD-ROM drives. This lets me
use my computer for some time before a lockup, but it still happens.
With the CD-ROM's connected, I was having some trouble even POSTing.

I have a Pentium 4 1.8 Ghz with an Asus mobo that has the Intel 845
chipset. The event viewer doesn't show anything, and I didn't make
any changes that might have triggered this problem.

Any ideas? Thanks.

 

[EdwardATeller]

My Sony VAIO PCV-RX670 desktop started freezes the other day. I put a
cd in the drive, and the cursor froze, and I had to power cycle.
Spent a ton of time trying to fix the problem. Swapped in a backup OS
hard drive. Ran lots of virus checks. Updated the BIOS. Took the
battery out to reset CMOS. Tested the RAM. None of this helped or
revealed any problem.

The one thing that helps is removing the CD-ROM drives. This lets me
use my computer for some time before a lockup, but it still happens.
With the CD-ROM's connected, I was having some trouble even POSTing.

I have a Pentium 4 1.8 Ghz with an Asus mobo that has the Intel 845
chipset. The event viewer doesn't show anything, and I didn't make
any changes that might have triggered this problem.

Any ideas? Thanks.

In my haste to get the post out before a lockup, I forgot to mention I
am running Windows XP with Service Pack 2. I did pull a tv tuner PCI
card out, and no lockups since then, but I haven't really used it
much. Tends to happen when I stress the system or pay video files.

 

[EdwardATeller]

In my haste to get the post out before a lockup, I forgot to mention I
am running Windows XP with Service Pack 2. I did pull a tv tuner PCI
card out, and no lockups since then, but I haven't really used it
much. Tends to happen when I stress the system or pay video files.

I can see this newsgroup has about as many ideas as I have for this
problem. Maybe it's time for a new computer.

 

[Paul]

I can see this newsgroup has about as many ideas as I have for this
problem. Maybe it's time for a new computer.

Yes, TV tuner cards (the ones with uncompressed output, that push
25MB/sec across the bus), have been known to freeze a computer.
No surprise there. And no ability to predict whether it will
happen or not. (Some machines have more stable PCI busses than
others.) I have a tuner card (BT878 based) in my P4C800-E Deluxe,
and no complaints. It'll run for hours without a problem.

If you pull the tuner, and notice a stability improvement, then
that could well be your problem.

Otherwise, a bad power supply might be the first place I'd look,
like a weak output rail or marginal output level (not producing
the amount of power it is rated for). Even a loose AC power
cable has been known to produce symptoms like that.

Debugging freezing computers is not a lot of fun. Finding the
problem could be very time consuming, and could always be
caused by something totally unrelated (some piece of software
you are using). There was a particular version of Marvell
LAN chip driver that would do it, for example.

With the TV tuner out, put the CDROM back and see if it
is still stable.

Paul

 

[EdwardATeller]

Yes, TV tuner cards (the ones with uncompressed output, that push
25MB/sec across the bus), have been known to freeze a computer.
No surprise there. And no ability to predict whether it will
happen or not. (Some machines have more stable PCI busses than
others.) I have a tuner card (BT878 based) in my P4C800-E Deluxe,
and no complaints. It'll run for hours without a problem.

If you pull the tuner, and notice a stability improvement, then
that could well be your problem.

Otherwise, a bad power supply might be the first place I'd look,
like a weak output rail or marginal output level (not producing
the amount of power it is rated for). Even a loose AC power
cable has been known to produce symptoms like that.

Debugging freezing computers is not a lot of fun. Finding the
problem could be very time consuming, and could always be
caused by something totally unrelated (some piece of software
you are using). There was a particular version of Marvell
LAN chip driver that would do it, for example.

With the TV tuner out, put the CDROM back and see if it
is still stable.

Paul

It still freezes with the tuner and cd drives out. Don't have any
equipment to test a PSU, so I'd have to buy a new one to see if that
helps. Thanks for the reply.

 

[ncprius]

Paul may be on to something with the power supply. I have a Sony VGC RA842G
and several years ago it began to freeze up and I would have to power off and
back on to get it to work. Eventually it turned out to be the power supply
(about $130 at the time). I'm still mystified as how a power supply could
cause freezing but, nevertheless, it did in my case. Replacement is worth a
try if you can return the power supply for credit in case it doesn't work.

 

[EdwardATeller]

Paul may be on to something with the power supply. I have a Sony VGC RA842G
and several years ago it began to freeze up and I would have to power off and
back on to get it to work. Eventually it turned out to be the power supply
(about $130 at the time). I'm still mystified as how a power supply could
cause freezing but, nevertheless, it did in my case. Replacement is worth a
try if you can return the power supply for credit in case it doesn't work.

I wonder if I can use a standard power supply, or do I have to buy one
from Sony.

 

[EdwardATeller]

I wonder if I can use a standard power supply, or do I have to buy one
from Sony.

Not a standard PSU, but I was able to test the box with a PSU from
another computer.
Still freezes. I am now experimenting with different memory sticks to
see if that helps.
Using the Sony right now for this post, so far so good.

 

[Paul]

Not a standard PSU, but I was able to test the box with a PSU from
another computer.
Still freezes. I am now experimenting with different memory sticks to
see if that helps.
Using the Sony right now for this post, so far so good.

It helps to use a more stressful test, than a light computing load.

For example, memtest86+ from memtest.org, can be used to test the
memory. Usually, this is available in floppy and also in ISO9660
for a CD. The test will run forever, unless you stop it. No errors
are acceptable. I've had two batches of cheap RAM, that started
throwing errors after the warranty on the RAM was expired. The
failed locations in the RAM were consistent from one run of
memtest86+ to the next. (It is also possible for the errors
to be random, when there are memory bus problems.) But the
important message here, is that no errors be reported.

Microsoft also makes a memory tester, free for download.

If you pass that test, then getting a copy of Prime95 from mersenne.org
is a second test. It runs in Windows or in Linux. There are a few
different versions (including one that spawns a test thread per
core on multicore processors). It uses hand coded FFT (fast fourier
transform) code, where the author of the code knows what the answer
of the math calculation should be. It is a pretty sensitive test of
not only the memory, but also the processor and Northbridge.

This version is suitable for even quad core processors, and is a
Windows version. Select the stress test option (rather than joining
GIMPS), and accept the default test conditions for your first test
run. On a mis-adjusted computer, this program will report a problem
in as little as ten seconds. I use a four hour run, error free, as
my current success criterion.

http://www.mersenne.org/gimps/p95v255a.zip

Sometimes memtest86+ passes, and Prime95 fails. Prime95 tends to be
a more sensitive test, mainly because the computer gets so much
warmer, and there is also more electrical noise from the test. But
you really shouldn't be booting into Windows, if the memory is
extremely bad, which is why testing first with memtest86+ is
recommended as a first step after a memory changeout.

Paul

 

[EdwardATeller]

It helps to use a more stressful test, than a light computing load.

For example, memtest86+ from memtest.org, can be used to test the
memory. Usually, this is available in floppy and also in ISO9660
for a CD. The test will run forever, unless you stop it. No errors
are acceptable. I've had two batches of cheap RAM, that started
throwing errors after the warranty on the RAM was expired. The
failed locations in the RAM were consistent from one run of
memtest86+ to the next. (It is also possible for the errors
to be random, when there are memory bus problems.) But the
important message here, is that no errors be reported.

Microsoft also makes a memory tester, free for download.

If you pass that test, then getting a copy of Prime95 from mersenne.org
is a second test. It runs in Windows or in Linux. There are a few
different versions (including one that spawns a test thread per
core on multicore processors). It uses hand coded FFT (fast fourier
transform) code, where the author of the code knows what the answer
of the math calculation should be. It is a pretty sensitive test of
not only the memory, but also the processor and Northbridge.

This version is suitable for even quad core processors, and is a
Windows version. Select the stress test option (rather than joining
GIMPS), and accept the default test conditions for your first test
run. On a mis-adjusted computer, this program will report a problem
in as little as ten seconds. I use a four hour run, error free, as
my current success criterion.

http://www.mersenne.org/gimps/p95v255a.zip

Sometimes memtest86+ passes, and Prime95 fails. Prime95 tends to be
a more sensitive test, mainly because the computer gets so much
warmer, and there is also more electrical noise from the test. But
you really shouldn't be booting into Windows, if the memory is
extremely bad, which is why testing first with memtest86+ is
recommended as a first step after a memory changeout.

Paul

The computer seems really f***ed now. It ended up freezing after
writing that. Now it doesn't even consistently POST. Tried a
different video card
in a different slot, and it still didn't POST. I should take the
thing
apart and test the components separately. I have another Socket 478
mobo,
so I can even test the CPU. Sort of a fun puzzle, but I think I'm
going to put it on the back burner for now since I have other
computers to use.

Thanks for the help.

 

[EdwardATeller]

The computer seems really f***ed now. It ended up freezing after
writing that. Now it doesn't even consistently POST. Tried a
different video card
in a different slot, and it still didn't POST. I should take the
thing
apart and test the components separately. I have another Socket 478
mobo,
so I can even test the CPU. Sort of a fun puzzle, but I think I'm
going to put it on the back burner for now since I have other
computers to use.

Thanks for the help.

Went to a computer repair store, and the tech suggested that the CPU
might be overheating. Took the heat sink off, clean off the thermal
paste, put new paste on, and reseated the heatsink. Seems much better
now. Had some freezes after doing this, did it again more carefully,
and now I haven't had a freeze yet. Knock on wood.

 

[Paul]

Went to a computer repair store, and the tech suggested that the CPU
might be overheating. Took the heat sink off, clean off the thermal
paste, put new paste on, and reseated the heatsink. Seems much better
now. Had some freezes after doing this, did it again more carefully,
and now I haven't had a freeze yet. Knock on wood.

Depending on whether Speedfan understands the hardware monitor in your
Sony, you may be able to chart your progress on improving the CPU
temperature.

How well you're doing, is determined by subtracting the room temperature,
from the other readings. These are my current temperature readings.
Room temperature is actually a thermistor I installed, at the intake
vent of the computer. The case temperature is the sensor on the motherboard,
that is not supposed to be next to any hot components. And the CPU temperature
is based on reading the silicon diode on the processor die itself.

Room temp 24C
Case temp 29C
CPU temp 41C (sitting idle)

29C - 24C is 5C. A well cooled computer case should have a 7C or less delta
between case temp and room temp. Too hot a case temp, means the CPU cooler
has no where to dump the heat.

For an absolute CPU temperature, if I didn't know what kind of
processor you had, I'd suggest keeping it below 65C when the CPU
is under load. OK, I'm firing up Prime95 now.

Room temp 24C
Case temp 29C
CPU temp 47C (Prime95 program is running two test threads)

I'm under 65C on the CPU. If I wanted to keep track of how well
my CPU cooler was doing, I subtract 47C - 29C, or a difference of
18C. The TDP rating of my processor is 70W, and in lieu of measuring
the actual power (which I can do, because I have a meter for it),
my Zalman cooler has achieved 18C/70W = 0.26C/W. That number is
called theta_R, and would represent the thermal resistance of the
heatsink compound plus the heatsink cooler to ambient (case) air.
Only a few companies measure and rate their coolers in those units,
but the measured value in this case, is in the right ballpark for
the cooler. Some of the retail coolers that come with
processors, are in the 0.33-0.35C/W ballpark.

So taking deltas, is the best way to track the performance,
whether it is the ability to keep the computer case air cool,
or keep the CPU cooled off. If I slowed my rear exhaust fan
down, I could probably make my CPU temperature a lot
higher than it currently is.

Some prebuilt computers, use one fan to cool both the CPU heatsink,
and push air out the back of the computer. So a lot rests on that
fan working properly, and the fins on the heatsink being clean.

Is your computer now memtest86+ error free, and Prime95 error free ?
That is how you determine it is fixed. Gamers like to run a
3D game, as a final stability check, but you can also use
3DMark2001SE if you don't own any games and aren't interested
in doing so. You'll need properly installed video drivers for
this to work. If you wanted an overnight test, selecting the
"demo loop" in 3DMark, causes the demo to run over and over.
If the computer is still running it the next day, you're in
good shape. I selected this particular version, as it is
only a 40MB download. Some of the newer versions are huge.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download99.html

Paul