PC won't boot with new motherboard

[Trevor]

My Medion 8383 wouldn't power up and the local computer shop diagnosed a
duff motherboard.

I took out my HD and put a blank brand new one in before I took it to the
shop.

They fitted the new MB and said it was booting fine.

I have now connected up the original HD, so just moved the power and data
cables over from the new HD to my original.

It won't boot up. I get a black screen offering to boot nortmally, safe
mode, last good configuration, all options return to this screen. I get the
black Wiundows screen with the couloured window as it boots up.

Apart from take it back to the shop, is there anything I could try?

 

[Gordon]

My Medion 8383 wouldn't power up and the local computer shop diagnosed a
duff motherboard.

Answered in microsoft.public.windowsxp.basics
Please do not make multiple posts: if you must post a message to more
than one Newsgroup, use cross-posting:
see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crossposting

 

[Loretta]

If you have ligitamate XP you could try a Win Xp repair install.
Loretta

 

[Trevor]

Answered in microsoft.public.windowsxp.basics
Please do not make multiple posts: if you must post a message to more than
one Newsgroup, use cross-posting:
see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crossposting

I hadn't heard of the difference but that seems to be what I did.

 

[Trevor]

I have 2 cd's

1. Operating system installation CD and
2. Application and support CD

I don't want to loos the data though it is backed up.

 

[Woody]

Was the motherboard they installed identical to the one that failed? If not
you are going to have to do a repair install as was stated in one of the
posts.
Also check all the BIOS options.

 

[Trevor]

Was the motherboard they installed identical to the one that failed? If
not you are going to have to do a repair install as was stated in one of
the posts.
Also check all the BIOS options.

It won't recognise the CD drives to do a repair install and it won't enter
the BIOS.

 

[Patrick Keenan]

It won't recognise the CD drives to do a repair install and it won't enter
the BIOS.

You mention cables, so this is a desktop. Unplug it, open it, remove the
CMOS battery and find the CMOS CLEAR jumper and move it. If you can't find
it, just leave the battery out for a few hours; go have a leisurely dinner
and come back later. Put the CMOS CLEAR jumper back, reinstall the
battery, close the case and plug the machine in. Now retry the BIOS entry
taking care to press the correct key.

The laptop equivalent is to remove the AC adapter AND the battery, so there
is NO power source, and then press and hold the power switch for about a
minute. This cures a variety of boot problems.

Note that some systems, particularly those with PS/2 keyboard ports, will
*not* allow entry to the BIOS via a keypress from a USB keyboard. You have
to keep a PS/2 keyboard on hand for those occasions and plug it in when
needed.

Clearing the CMOS should force the system to rescan for new hardware,
detecting the drive, and let you into the BIOS.

If no drives are recognised, be careful of drive jumper settings. If
necessary, take it down to just one attached drive, and set the jumpers till
that drive is recognised. Then add one more, adjusting the jumpers so both
are recognised.

Repair installs typically leave all data, applications, and the user
registry intact. But, things do go wrong, so it is prudent to back up, and
easy to do so with an inexpensive USB2 drive case or connector and access to
another system with enough space.

HTH
-pk

 

[Trevor]

You mention cables, so this is a desktop. Unplug it, open it, remove the
CMOS battery and find the CMOS CLEAR jumper and move it. If you can't
find it, just leave the battery out for a few hours; go have a leisurely
dinner and come back later. Put the CMOS CLEAR jumper back, reinstall
the battery, close the case and plug the machine in. Now retry the BIOS
entry taking care to press the correct key.

The laptop equivalent is to remove the AC adapter AND the battery, so
there is NO power source, and then press and hold the power switch for
about a minute. This cures a variety of boot problems.

Note that some systems, particularly those with PS/2 keyboard ports, will
*not* allow entry to the BIOS via a keypress from a USB keyboard. You
have to keep a PS/2 keyboard on hand for those occasions and plug it in
when needed.

Clearing the CMOS should force the system to rescan for new hardware,
detecting the drive, and let you into the BIOS.

If no drives are recognised, be careful of drive jumper settings. If
necessary, take it down to just one attached drive, and set the jumpers
till that drive is recognised. Then add one more, adjusting the jumpers
so both are recognised.

Repair installs typically leave all data, applications, and the user
registry intact. But, things do go wrong, so it is prudent to back up,
and easy to do so with an inexpensive USB2 drive case or connector and
access to another system with enough space.

HTH
-pk

Were your instructions re CMOS and battery just to get into the BIOS? If so,
then I can get into the BIOS, but it won't boot from CD. It does have CD as
1st in the boot sequence.

 

[Bruce Chambers]

My Medion 8383 wouldn't power up and the local computer shop diagnosed a
duff motherboard.

I took out my HD and put a blank brand new one in before I took it to the
shop.

They fitted the new MB and said it was booting fine.

I have now connected up the original HD, so just moved the power and data
cables over from the new HD to my original.

It won't boot up. I get a black screen offering to boot nortmally, safe
mode, last good configuration, all options return to this screen. I get the
black Wiundows screen with the couloured window as it boots up.

Apart from take it back to the shop, is there anything I could try?

Normally, and assuming a retail license (many factory-installed OEM
installations are BIOS-locked to a specific motherboard chipset and
therefore are *not* transferable to a new motherboard - check yours
*before* starting), unless the new motherboard is virtually identical
(same chipset, same IDE controllers, same BIOS version, etc.) to the one
on which the WinXP installation was originally performed, you'll need to
perform a repair (a.k.a. in-place upgrade) installation, at the very least:

How to Perform an In-Place Upgrade of Windows XP
http://support.microsoft.com/directory/article.asp?ID=KB;EN-US;Q315341

Changing a Motherboard or Moving a Hard Drive with WinXP Installed
http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/moving_xp.html

The "why" is quite simple, really, and has nothing to do with
licensing issues, per se; it's a purely technical matter, at this point.
You've pulled the proverbial hardware rug out from under the OS. (If
you don't like -- or get -- the rug analogy, think of it as picking up a
Cape Cod style home and then setting it down onto a Ranch style
foundation. It just isn't going to fit.) WinXP, like Win2K before it,
is not nearly as "promiscuous" as Win9x when it comes to accepting any
old hardware configuration you throw at it. On installation it
"tailors" itself to the specific hardware found. This is one of the
reasons that the entire WinNT/2K/XP OS family is so much more stable
than the Win9x group.

As always when undertaking such a significant change, back up any
important data before starting.

This will also probably require re-activation, unless you have a
Volume Licensed version of WinXP Pro installed. If it's been more than
120 days since you last activated that specific Product Key, you'll most
likely be able to activate via the Internet without problem. If it's
been less, you might have to make a 5 minute phone call.




--

Bruce Chambers

Help us help you:


http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx/kb/555375

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. ~Benjamin Franklin

Many people would rather die than think; in fact, most do. ~Bertrand Russell

The philosopher has never killed any priests, whereas the priest has
killed a great many philosophers.
~ Denis Diderot

 

[Trevor]

Normally, and assuming a retail license (many factory-installed OEM
installations are BIOS-locked to a specific motherboard chipset and
therefore are *not* transferable to a new motherboard - check yours
*before* starting), unless the new motherboard is virtually identical
(same chipset, same IDE controllers, same BIOS version, etc.) to the one
on which the WinXP installation was originally performed, you'll need to
perform a repair (a.k.a. in-place upgrade) installation, at the very
least:

How to Perform an In-Place Upgrade of Windows XP
http://support.microsoft.com/directory/article.asp?ID=KB;EN-US;Q315341

Changing a Motherboard or Moving a Hard Drive with WinXP Installed
http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/moving_xp.html

The "why" is quite simple, really, and has nothing to do with
licensing issues, per se; it's a purely technical matter, at this point.
You've pulled the proverbial hardware rug out from under the OS. (If you
don't like -- or get -- the rug analogy, think of it as picking up a Cape
Cod style home and then setting it down onto a Ranch style foundation. It
just isn't going to fit.) WinXP, like Win2K before it, is not nearly as
"promiscuous" as Win9x when it comes to accepting any old hardware
configuration you throw at it. On installation it "tailors" itself to the
specific hardware found. This is one of the reasons that the entire
WinNT/2K/XP OS family is so much more stable than the Win9x group.

As always when undertaking such a significant change, back up any
important data before starting.

This will also probably require re-activation, unless you have a
Volume Licensed version of WinXP Pro installed. If it's been more than
120 days since you last activated that specific Product Key, you'll most
likely be able to activate via the Internet without problem. If it's been
less, you might have to make a 5 minute phone call.




--

Bruce Chambers

Help us help you:


http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx/kb/555375

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. ~Benjamin Franklin

Many people would rather die than think; in fact, most do. ~Bertrand
Russell

The philosopher has never killed any priests, whereas the priest has
killed a great many philosophers.
~ Denis Diderot

I got windows to recognise the CD drives by resetting the BIOS. I tried to
install Windows on the new HD, but although setup recognised the HD make and
size it said it couldn't communicate with it. I take it this may be because
its not set as master, but then I don't know how to do that. I've heard
about jumpers but there didn't seem to be any on the HD. I also tried a
system recovery on my original HD (which has my data and windows on) but it
was still get going back to the screen with boot windows normally, safe
mode, last know good config etc etc.

 

[Patrick Keenan]

Were your instructions re CMOS and battery just to get into the BIOS? If
so, then I can get into the BIOS, but it won't boot from CD. It does have
CD as 1st in the boot sequence.

Is the CD you are using actually bootable?

-pk

 

[Trevor]

Is the CD you are using actually bootable?

-pk

I reset the BIOS - after that I could boot from CD but it wouldn't boot
after a system recovery and I couldn't install XP on the new HD as it said
it couldn't communicate, so its back at the shop now!