PC doesn't start

A

Andrea

WXP SP2 uptodate.
Mboard AMD1700; DVDR/R Pioneer; DVDR/CDR Samsung. Printer HP5550. Camera
Logitech MSN; UPS Trust; Promise Ultra 133.
Since a while now, my PC would not start immediately. The MB turns on (led
on), the fans work( both for chipset and power supply unit) the Pioneer DVD
led turns on but not the Samsung CDR/R one nor the monitor.
I tried many things ( disconnected the monitor, disconnected one by one the
DVD and the CD R/R, the printer, the camera) cecked the connection to the
harddrives, changed the IDE connectors, changed the Power Supply Unit , with
no result. Suddenly, after many attemps, without a hint of what really made
the difference, the PC starts and everything works very well until the next
restart.
Any suggestions for troubleshooting?
Thanks in advance,
Andrea
 
J

Jim Macklin

Change the battery on the mobo.
Defrag your hard drive.


in message | WXP SP2 uptodate.
| Mboard AMD1700; DVDR/R Pioneer; DVDR/CDR Samsung. Printer
HP5550. Camera
| Logitech MSN; UPS Trust; Promise Ultra 133.
| Since a while now, my PC would not start immediately. The
MB turns on (led
| on), the fans work( both for chipset and power supply
unit) the Pioneer DVD
| led turns on but not the Samsung CDR/R one nor the
monitor.
| I tried many things ( disconnected the monitor,
disconnected one by one the
| DVD and the CD R/R, the printer, the camera) cecked the
connection to the
| harddrives, changed the IDE connectors, changed the Power
Supply Unit , with
| no result. Suddenly, after many attemps, without a hint of
what really made
| the difference, the PC starts and everything works very
well until the next
| restart.
| Any suggestions for troubleshooting?
| Thanks in advance,
| Andrea
|
|
 
A

Andrea

Thanks Jim for the advices. I changed the MOBO Battery with no result.
Today, as I did already a few days ago and worked but didn't yesterday, I
disconnected the signal cable of the monitor; the PC started. Cannot say
it's a monitor fault. Any further sugestions?
Thanks,
Andrea
 
S

Smoker

Andrea said:
WXP SP2 uptodate.
Mboard AMD1700; DVDR/R Pioneer; DVDR/CDR Samsung. Printer HP5550. Camera
Logitech MSN; UPS Trust; Promise Ultra 133.
Since a while now, my PC would not start immediately. The MB turns on
(led on), the fans work( both for chipset and power supply unit) the
Pioneer DVD led turns on but not the Samsung CDR/R one nor the monitor.
I tried many things ( disconnected the monitor, disconnected one by one
the DVD and the CD R/R, the printer, the camera) cecked the connection to
the harddrives, changed the IDE connectors, changed the Power Supply Unit
, with no result. Suddenly, after many attemps, without a hint of what
really made the difference, the PC starts and everything works very well
until the next restart.
Any suggestions for troubleshooting?
Thanks in advance,
Andrea
--- --- ---
changed the Power Supply Unit <

From what to what?

If you don't understand the details on the side label of your PSU, swapping
out power supplies is meaningless if you think any 500 watt unit is better
than any 300 watt unit.

It takes next to no power to light an LED and fans require only 3 to 5 watts
each. When you cold boot your computer it takes all the power that can be
supplied to start all of your hardware whether you are going to be using it
or not. (Restarts require a lot less power because everything is already
started.)

What are the circumstances when your computer decided to boot up on it's
own? Was it already on and suddenly came to life as you expect? What do you
mean by "restart?" Cold boot or reset switch?

Often people get a new computer then keep adding on hardware without a
thought ever given to the power supply. It has limits.

I think your problem obviously could have to do with power being supplied
adequately and strong enough to get you up and running. Sometimes there is a
power struggle between Window's power management and that of your mobo BIOS.
Disable the mobo ACPI or whatever it calls the power management and see if
that makes a difference. If not, try a hefty 500 watt PSU made by Enermax or
Antec (there are very few others that provide "known good" units).

Remove everything you don't need essentially like your printer, camera,
etal., and see if you can boot ok that way. If that works you need a better
PSU because adding more hardware drains it too much.
 
W

w_tom

Thanks Jim for the advices. I changed the MOBO Battery with no result.
Today, as I did already a few days ago and worked but didn't yesterday, I
disconnected the signal cable of the monitor; the PC started. Cannot say
it's a monitor fault. Any further sugestions?

Stop trying to fix things without first knowing what is wrong. Get a
3.5 digit multimeter (so ubiquitous as to be sold even in K-mart) and
measure some DC voltages from power supply. First is the purple wire
that must measure 4.87 volts DC when computer is not powered on. Then
measure green wire voltage that must be well above 2 volts before
power switch is pressed AND drop to well below 0.8 volts when power
switch is pressed.

Next look at one of each orange, red, and yellow wires when power
switch is pressed. What does each do? Each must exceed 3.23, 4.87,
and 11.7.

Now in less than two minutes, you have numbers that provide a useful
reply; will point to a suspect.

Currently you are shotgunning. Just like firing a gun blindly in
all directions until something changes. What have you learned?
Nothing. You even replaced the battery. Was that defective? We don't
know. But with a meter and less than 30 seconds, you would have know
- and not disconnected or replaced anything. Just another example of
knowing what is bad before replacing anything.

Numbers from those measurements (in less than 2 minutes) should
point to a suspect. And posting those numbers will even provide far
more useful information. Your replies will only be as good as the
information provided. That means numbers from meter measurements.
 
A

Andrea

Hi friends,
Ok, I have the meter and I'll provide infos about the mesurements.
I'll also follow Smoker advices about the ACPI.
The PSU gives 500 watts and the old one was 250, so this should be ok.
Thanks a lot to both of you.
Andrea
 
A

Andrea

Thanks Smoker.
I'll follow you advices and Tom's ones and let the NG know. The PSU gives
500 watts and it's brand new. With "restart" I mean a cold start. To do that
I have to power off the PC from the power main switch and that push the fron
start button; after various attempr the PC starts. I'll measure the the
output voltage and let you know.
Thanks again,
Andrea
 
A

Andrea

Hi Tom,
I have the mesurement results, I hope they help finding out:

Purple wire - 5.19V;
Green - 4.8 StandBy
0,04 Pwower on;
Orange - 3.43;
Red - 5.13;
Yellow - 12.17.
I got the same values also with the PC connected through my "Trust" no break
PSU.
I measured the voltages at each device connector (HDs, DVD R/R, Floppy and
MOBO) both with the connector plugged in and unplugged; only for the MOBO I
didn't unplug the connector for the measurement.
Today the PC started running after I tried a few times, switching it off
from the main power switch and repedetly pushing the front power on switch.
Thanks in advence for any help,
Andrea
 
A

Andrea

Hi Smoker,
I disabled the ACPI with no result. Please read my post for w-tom.
Thanks again,
Andrea
 
W

w_tom

Did you take orange, red, and yellow wire measurements with many
peripherals and complex video graphic occuring simultaneously? All
values are in spec. But the Orange wire 3.3 volts is disturbing. It
is adjacent to highest limit. This would not cause intermittent
operation but, if that voltage gets higher, voltage could lead to
premature failure. The maximum spec limit for orange wire is 3.465.
That voltage would have to become significantly higher to cause
damage. But what was the load when those voltages were taken? If
that voltage drops when many programs are multitasking - accessing
disk drive, network interface, CD-Rom, complex graphics - then voltage
is perfectly OK.

High orange wire voltage is just a concern not related to your
original problem.

There was no need to measure voltages at other peripherals. With
everything connected, voltage on any one color wire at the nylon
motherboard connector is sufficient.

You power supply was changed. Is this the original supply or
another? What would be informative - to get the problem clearly
identified the first time - take those same measurements with the
original supply.

As the purple wire demonstrates, power is always inside the system
when AC power cord is connected. Therefore nothing should be
connected or removed from system until power cord is disconnected from
AC - so that purple wire has no voltage.

Those numbers say nothing is wrong with the power supply - which is
disturbing because you had a failure and we don't see it.
Demonstrated is why we want those numbers first - long before changing
anything - so that we can see the failure before it is 'fixed'.
Failure is not found in the Power Supply system according to numbers
taken with everything powered and working inside the computer. So
what caused the problem? Power supply and power supply controller
appear to be working just fine - are not on the list of suspects.
 
A

Andrea

Hi, Tom.
I checked again the orange voltage with CD/Rom running and WMP I do not use
any complex video graphic.
The PSu was changed because of the fan failure on the original one that was
suppused to give only 250 watts. The problem was actually there with the old
PSU.
My suspects are against the front switch or its connections to the MoBo.
Could you help with smart advices to check it properly?
Thanks again Tom; I hope I'm not abusing of your kindness,
Andrea
P.S. Sorry for my poor Eng. I'm writing from Italy
 
W

w_tom

Now I am confused. You changed (swapped) the power supply.
Everything works. Why then would a power switch or connections be
suspect (as defective)? Those voltage readings, if taken before
changing anything, would have identified a power switch, connections,
power supply, or power supply controller (including APCI) as either
good or bad. All we can do now is confirm what is working. Those
voltage measurements say the power switch, power supply controller,
connections, power supply, and APCI are working OK; are not causing
problems.

However, well, first some background. The power supply controller
has inputs from the purple wire and from power switch. To power on
supply, that power supply controller drops the green wire voltage to
near zero. This happens when power switch is pressed.

How to see power switch working: Connect both leads of the meter to
both power switch wires where those wires connect to motherboard.
When switch is not pressed, then voltage must be well above 2.4
volts. When switch is pressed, then that voltage drops to well below
0.8 volts. If those voltages are OK, then switch (and associated
circuit on motherboard) is working just fine. But we know the switch
was working because green wire voltage dropped to near zero when
switch was pressed.

Meanwhile is a 250 watt supply too small? Without first taking
measurements, one could not know. Even worse are how clone power
supplies (selling at a cheaper price) are rated (speced). That 500
watt supply may actually only be 350 watts based in how some clone
manufacturers 'play' (fudge, manipulate, spin) numbers. A true 250
watt supply would be more than enough for most machines.

Again, with that 250 watt supply installed AND by measuring voltages
on an orange, red, and yellow wire while numerous peripherals are
accessed, then we might learn why your system periodically would not
start.

Complex graphics? Play a DVD movie or a video from U Tube. That
would be complex graphics - cause graphics controller to consume more
power. Most power is consumed by CPU, video controller and DVD when
burning a ROM disk. Doing these things are a best test of a power
supply - the best time to measure voltages on an orange, red, and
yellow wires.

Currently your voltage numbers say no problems exist on power switch
or connections. But then you may have 'fixed' them by changing
things. For example, connectors are self cleaning. Once disconnected
and reconnected, then the connection is cleaned. Well if that
connection was the problem, then it was fixed before we identified
it. IOW we still don't know if anything has been 'fixed' (repaired).

For future reference - and this applies to diagnosing any problems -
first collect facts before replacing or fixing anything.

Your English is perfect. I would have never guessed you are
Italian. Meanwhile, my gut feeling (speculation) is that you have
solved the problem. We just don't know why. Sprinkle it with some
holy water before closing the computer. Can't hurt.
 
A

Andrea

Hi Tom,
alas I haven't solved the problem. There might have been a misunderstandig.
Yes the mesurements gave good results, but the PC doesn't start as due;
i.e., when I push the case front switch, normally nothing happens, except
that the
led on the DVD/r turns on (and if a cd is in, it starts running), the
case green led turns on too and so does the the orange one ( but stays on).
With the switch pressed the voltage are within the specs but, but if the PC
doesn't boot, I cannot "turn it off" using the front switch. So I turn off
the power, using the back ( line ) switch, turn it on and try again using
the front button. After a few attemps the PC starts and works fine.
I measured the voltage at the Power switch plug, when connected to the MoBo,
it says 3,17, but I have the same value with the switch depressed and when
the PC finally boots and is running fine. However, after I have the Pc boot,
I can "restart" and even turn it off and on ("cold restart") with no
problems, but if I leave it off for a long time , let's say 1hr or so, the
problem is back again.
Thanks again for your attention,
Andrea
 
W

w_tom

Before a computer can start after power supply turns on, first, all
electronics must receive a reset signal. This reset signal is created
on motherboard. If the reset circuit does not work on power up, then
power can be applied and computer will .... well, strum your lips as
you hum. Computer is just as confused if it does not get a power-on
reset signal (sometimes called 'Power On Reset' or POR).

When you pressed the front power switch, then green wire voltage
dropped to zero AND orange, red, and yellow wire voltages remained
sufficient (correct). Therefore voltage on that switch must have
dropped to near zero. 'Reset circuit' on motherboard' then resets and
'boots' a computer.

If reset circuit does not properly reset all motherboard
electronics, then motherboard may ignore future front power switch
presses. If that power switch is ignored (electronics not properly
reset on power up), then computer can only be powered off by
disconnecting power (ie. switch off rear power supply switch).

Meanwhile, when power switch is pressed, then green wire voltage
drops to near zero - orders power supply to power voltages on orange,
red, and yellow wires. That can only happen if front power switch
voltage drops to near zero - can only happen if switch works
correctly.

To review, that switch voltage is measured with red meter probe on
one switch wire and black meter probe on other wire (neither meter
probe connected to chassis). If switch voltage does not drop to near
zero when switch is pressed; then green wire voltage cannot drop to
zero and those LEDs will not light. IOW I suspect something is wrong
when measuring that switch wire voltage.

Well, apparently motherboard 'reset circuit' is not working
properly. If purple wire voltage remains sufficient as previously
posted (and that purple wire voltage must be measured only when
connected to motherboard), then motherboard 'reset circuit' is
defective. Even ACPI circuits will not function properly if reset
signal is not generated.

I assume that computer does power (does light LEDs) first and
everytime the front power switch is pressed. Therefore switch voltage
does drop to zero whenever switch is pressed. Therefore motherboard
reset circuit is probably defective. Visual inspection may reveal a
stray metal fragment, locate a slightly bulging capacitor, or may
identify a standoff somehow shorted to a printed circuit trace on
underside of motherboard. This visual inspection might explain the
'reset circuit' failure.

'Reset circuit' can be repaired. But skill level and cost to do so
means that replacing a motherboard is cheaper and quicker.

Sorry that I cannot provide a less expensive solution. But if those
orange, red, and yellow voltages rise and remain correct (in
specification), then the power supply *system* (power switch, power
supply, power supply controller, and connectors) is functioning
properly.
 
A

Andrea

Hi , Tom.
Thanks again for the time you spent for me. I was just coming on line to
post some updates. The mesurements I made on the PWS at MoBo level were
actually foulty. I requested some help to see what happened pressing the
front switch during the mearuremets and the result was that keeping the
meter's on the plug, when the front switch was preessed the voltage went
actually down and the Pc started. So it seem to be a "random" problem. I'll
try living with it and maybe buy a new MoBo. One more question, if it is
"random" can we for sure affirm it's a MoBo problem?
Best regards,
Andrea
 
W

w_tom

Hi , Tom.
Thanks again for the time you spent for me. I was just coming on line to
post some updates. The mesurements I made on the PWS at MoBo level were
actually foulty. I requested some help to see what happened pressing the
front switch during the mearuremets and the result was that keeping the
meter's on the plug, when the front switch was preessed the voltage went
actually down and the Pc started. So it seem to be a "random" problem. I'll
try living with it and maybe buy a new MoBo. One more question, if it is
"random" can we for sure affirm it's a MoBo problem?

When it powers up but computer does not work, we still see green
wire drop to near zero. We then see orange, red, and yellow wires
above minimum voltages. One other wire is the gray wire. It must
rise above 2.4 volts within second of switch pressed. Gray wire tells
motherboard that those three voltages are OK. Well if that power
supply voltage monitor were defective, then gray wire would not rise
well above 2.4 volts (I probably should have mentioned this earlier.)

But when all those voltages are well beyond threshold values, power
supply system is completely OK.

Look at what remains. Motherboard and CPU use few circuits when
first starting: CPU, BIOS, video controller, and some support
functions. All located on motherboard. If these few functions
start, then floppy disk drive makes noise and lights on keyboard will
go through a power-up flashing procedure. If that procedure starts
and detects a failure, then motherboard speaker beeps. Little on
motherboard will hinder that simple response. Well maybe a video
controller has some strange startup problem. It is a remote
possibility. However if video controller fails, then motherboard
speaker will usually beep an error code. (Does motherboard normally
beep once when system does power up?)

Anyway, any or all of these possible failures are found on
motherboard. A timing delay. A signal that is not quite high or low
enough. A signal with too much noise or a double glitch. Whatever.
The point is that a simplest first function performed by motherboard
after voltages are stable is to reset all hardware and to execute the
simplest BIOS program. That simplest program would then beep the
speaker. Everything outside of motherboard that could adversely
affect that startup is working properly and safetly beyond limits.

You might just look at the gray wire; make sure that voltage rises
above 2.4 volts when computer does not start. If so, the motherboard
has everything necessary to perform flawlessly. I would expect with
age (and with increased room temperature) that the intermittent would
become worse. Temperature being an excellent tool to heat selected
components - to make an intermittent hard - to trace the failure to a
particular spot. Still, it would be on motherboard - the only
remaining suspect.

We would trace such failures to a particular IC using oscilloscopes
and schematics. In your case, we have neither. Often a marginal
signal somewhere between two ICs would be identified as reason for the
intermittent. Obviously we cannot do that here. By confirming that
everything else relevant is working OK, then motherboard is only
remaining suspect. Again, maybe something like removing a stray metal
fragment, a bulging capacitor, or a standoff shorting to a circuit
board conductor might cure the problem. But history says that reason
for failure is rare. So little is necessary to display on video. And
those few functions apparently are not even starting. We don't even
have a speaker beep when computer does not start. Everything to
accomplish so little is only on motherboard - the last remaining
suspect. (But check the gray wire that I forgot to mention).
 
A

Andrea

Hi Tom back to you again.
I would really thank you for what I was able to learn. Tonight I tried to
make the measurements of the gray wire voltage; the voltage is 0,04; when
the front button is pressed it raises at 4.37. This measurement cannot tell
much, I assume, since every time I tried the computer did start. I had left
it on for some hours and this might be the reason. I'm leaving for NY and
then Minneapolis tomorrow and will be back nexy week. I hope I'll find you
again on the NG and give you more suitable infos. You know, it is not the PC
working I'm interested in, it's much more to know and learn: I think I found
a special teacher.
Thanks a lot again,
Andrea
 
W

w_tom

Hi Tom back to you again.
I would really thank you for what I was able to learn. Tonight I tried to
make the measurements of the gray wire voltage; the voltage is 0,04; when
the front button is pressed it raises at 4.37. This measurement cannot tell
much, I assume, since every time I tried the computer did start.

Just to summarize, the purple wire is called +5VSB. 'Five volt
standby' powers the power supply controller and any peripheral (ie
modem, NIC, keyboard) that might be enable in BIOS to cause computer
to power on. For example, if phone rings, then modem might be enabled
to power on computer.

Green wire is !Power On (! means power on occurs when voltage goes
to zero). Gray wire is Power OK. A voltage monitor inside the power
supply verifies orange, red, and yellow wire voltages are OK and
stable. That monitor drives gray wire voltage above 2.4 volts; tells
CPU that important power supply voltages are OK. If any one voltage
is lost, then system must shutdown. Power OK sends the message.

Orange is 3.3V. Red is 5.0V. Yellow is 12V.

Also provided are -5 on white wire and -12 on blue wire. These are
legacy voltages often only for the benefit of special purpose
controllers. They are not monitored and are typically not used by
motherboard circuits. Some power supplies may not even provide the -5
volts. Some power supplies power the fan from the -12 volts only so
that -12 volts has a minimum required load.

Because some voltages must provide so many amperes, then multiple
wires of same color are necessary. Since each Molex (white nylon)
connector pin should only provide up to 6 amps, then four red wires
are necessary to provide up to 24 amps to motherboard.

Most peripherals draw little power. For example, a disk drive
typically only draws 10 watts. CPU and video card processors are big
power consumers. A separate cable connects power supply to
motherboard adjacent to CPU because CPU consumes so much power AND can
change current demands from less than 1 amp to well over 10 amps in
only microseconds. Adjacent electrolytic capacitors are part of a CPU
power supply, are powered by yellow wire 12 volts, and act as
reservoirs to meet CPU's sharp and sudden demands for power. That's a
quick summary of a computer power supply system.
 
A

Andrea

Hi, Tom.
Back to Italy.
I have the values for the gray wire, when PC doesn't start ; i.e. 0.04 and
4.07.
Thanks,
Andrea
 

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