New motherboard won't post.

[Machine Messiah]

"Machine Messiah" said in
snip

Also be careful or torquing wires around any sharp edge, especially if a
metal edge. It can eventually pierce through the insulation to make a
short circuit. By "paint" did you mean you used heatshrink tubing,
rubber goop and electrical tape, or some nail polish or just paint? If
you just used paint, well, we'll be seeing you back here later when it
shorts again.

It's called Electrical paint . It's made to be used where you can't use
tape. One of the guys at work gave it to me, he's a maintenance tech at
an apartment complex. Do they make any kind of flexible tubing you can
wrap your power switch lines in so they don't get damaged?

snip

By the way, if you really don't want to learn how to use a multimeter
(which has many other uses besides for your computer), you can get a
power supply tester
(http://www.bestbyte.net/Product.cfm?ProductID=1413&CategoryID=3&Keyword
=tester) for real cheap that will check that each voltage is within
range (and you can test without ever plugging it into the motherboard
and risking burning something out because of over-voltage). >

snip
The same guy was showing me how to use a few inexpensive electric testing
devices we have at our shop. He'd probably like that power supply tester.
I'll look at multimeters/voltage testers the next time I go shopping.

 

[Machine Messiah]

On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 21:44:32 GMT, Machine Messiah

That can't possibly be the solution to your problem.

At the very least, you should buy a different power cord.

It wasn't the power cord, it was the line from the power switch on the
front panel to the motherboard. I have several power cords.

 

[Machine Messiah]

unless the exposed wire is touching another exposed wire or the metal
casing (I assume it was and that the casing probably caused the nick).

snip

I find it odd that the fans would run, the hd would spin but the mobo
wouldn't post. Shouldn't it have sparked if the uninsulated part of the
wire touched the metal on the case? I swear, painting that wire was the
only thing I did.

snip

I am unsure what electrical paint is, it seems a rather unusual substance
to have around for someone who doesnt know what a voltmeter is.

Wasn't mine, got it from a guy at work. The can was labled "Electrical
Paint", honest.
snip

A bit of insulating tape would probably provide a more durable
solution, however its fixed now so I doubt you will be to bothered
unless the problem reappears.

snip
I was afraid I'd do more damage to the wire in the process of taping it.
snip

Its one or the problems of having long sharp nails I guess :O|

My nails are trashed.
Thanks.

 

[Machine Messiah]

On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 14:43:15 GMT, Machine Messiah


A basic digital multimeter from someplace like Radio Shack might cost $25,
and while not the most accurate would be sufficient for this basic test.

The ATX connector has holes in the back, at which point the wires enter
it. With system powered on you would carefully take readings of each
different color and voltage specification. Here is a guide:
http://69.36.189.159/usr_1034/atx_on.gif
However since the picture is of the pin-side, not wire-side, you'd have to
mentally reverse the image, though "usually" the correct colors will still
correspond to each set of wires. There is no need to be concerned about
-12V or -5V readings that are off spec, those voltages may not be used nor
regulated well and so can be ignored. Of course these readings need to be
taken when the system is turned on, or in your case, powered up when it's
suppoed to be POSTing.

The other voltages should be within +-5% for 3V, 5V, and +_10% for 12V.
However, sometimes a power supply of insufficient capacity will initially
appear to have proper voltage levels within this spec but one voltage (for
example 5V) will be too low and another (like 12V) will be too high. If
that's the case it may also be a sign of a problem and it might be helpful
if you posted the readings you see.

Thanks kony
The problem was a damaged wire on the power switch from the front panel.
A guy at work showed me how to use a multimeter. I'll buy one soon.
I'll keep your message and link for future reference.
I have poorly made Codegen case w/ 350 watt power supply. It's very quiet
but I probably should get another power supply anyway.

 

[half_pint]

It wasn't the power cord, it was the line from the power switch on the
front panel to the motherboard. I have several power cords.

Ohhhhhhh..... can I pull them... %-}

 

[Trent©]

snip

I find it odd that the fans would run, the hd would spin but the mobo
wouldn't post. Shouldn't it have sparked if the uninsulated part of the
wire touched the metal on the case? I swear, painting that wire was the
only thing I did.

No its not. At the very least, you moved the wire.

As yer recognizing above, that wire was not yer problem. If it was,
the fans wouldn't have been running.

From your original post, here's my guess...

Everything was working fine...except that you didn't know that. You
probably simply didn't have the monitor plugged in all the way.

Then you went to shut off the computer. At this point, you can't see
where the operating system is at.., because you can't see anything on
the monitor. So you push it the button...to shut it off.

But you couldn't, of course...because you were probably at the
desktop...or somewhere like that within the program. So you'd need to
hold the button in for a few seconds...4 or 5 seconds...in order to
shut down. But you probably didn't know that...so you thought the
system just wouldn't turn off...because you pushed the button in
quickly...like you do when yer turning ON the system.

Just a guess.


Have a nice week...

Trent

What do you call a smart blonde?
A golden retriever.

 

[kony]

It's called Electrical paint . It's made to be used where you can't use
tape. One of the guys at work gave it to me, he's a maintenance tech at
an apartment complex. Do they make any kind of flexible tubing you can
wrap your power switch lines in so they don't get damaged?

A more common solution is to use heat-shrink tubing, possibly available at
your local hardware store in a small blister pack or available at
electronics stores by the foot. Well, by electronics stores I generally
mean electronics-component oriented supply stores or online, you might
want to call ahead before expecting to find anything more than a blaster
pack at places like Radio Shack. As it's name implies, it's a tube that
shrinks when heated by a heat source, a small match or lighter will
suffice when there's nothing else available but used to heat the tubing
only long enough to shrink it, not char it or melt anything else.
Practicing on a scrap piece of wire is a good idea before the first time
using it on the system.

The heat-shrink tubing will seal well enough instead of the "paint" you
used, providing it's initial diameter is small enough. I don't recall the
diameter needed for the (most common size) wiring used in fron bezel
switches but in general you'd want it just large enough to slip over the
metal pins in the connector. The pins are removed from the connector by
_VERY_ gently prying on the small plastic locking tab, just a tiny bit,
and pulling the wire out.

Since you already applied the paint, if you feel it's sealed and protected
well you don't necessarily need to use heatshrink tubing, any tubing large
enough to slip the wires though would work, for example clear vinyl or (?
some other composition of flexible tubing) may also be available at the
local hardware store.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

There was a nick on the electical line for the power switch. Nothing
frayed, just nicked enough to see the wire inside.
We painted it with electrical paint and the machine started normally.

Do the job properly. Cut the wire, bare both ends, slide a short piece
of heatshrink tubing over one end, twist the wires together, flow some
solder into the join, slide the heatshrink over the join, and then
heat the tubing with a hair dryer for a neat, reliable finish.


- Franc Zabkar

 

[Machine Messiah]

snip

Everything was working fine...except that you didn't know that. You
probably simply didn't have the monitor plugged in all the way.

snip
Trust me, it was plugged in all the way.
snip.

 

[Machine Messiah]

On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 02:15:37 GMT, Machine Messiah


Since you already applied the paint, if you feel it's sealed and protected
well you don't necessarily need to use heatshrink tubing, any tubing large
enough to slip the wires though would work, for example clear vinyl or (?
some other composition of flexible tubing) may also be available at the
local hardware store.

How about flexible silicone tubing?
I have some already and it's easy cut with a razor blade.

 

[kony]

How about flexible silicone tubing?
I have some already and it's easy cut with a razor blade.

Sure, that'll work too, all your needing to do at this point is enclose
the wires in (something). The biggest issue with tubing is the diameter,
if you have a way to keep it in place. A dab of silicone sealant or glue,
epoxy, etc, will do that, or even a knot in the wire, whatever works for
you.