New motherboard won't post.

[Machine Messiah]

Just finished installing an Abit IS-10 (mATX intel I865G). Switch on the
power, no beeps, error message from monitor to check conection to pc. Cpu
fan fires up fine.
System also has :
350 watt supply,
2 245mb Buffalo ddr 400 ram
Celeron 2.4 ghz, 400 fsb
Connected a hd, it's getting power.
Disconnected all the front panel switches except the power on,
no help there. Also, the pc will not shut down with the power button, it
has to be unplugged.
What do I do now, send it back to Newegg.com?

 

[Noozer]

Just finished installing an Abit IS-10 (mATX intel I865G). Switch on the
power, no beeps, error message from monitor to check conection to pc. Cpu
fan fires up fine.
System also has :
350 watt supply,
2 245mb Buffalo ddr 400 ram
Celeron 2.4 ghz, 400 fsb
Connected a hd, it's getting power.
Disconnected all the front panel switches except the power on,
no help there. Also, the pc will not shut down with the power button, it
has to be unplugged.
What do I do now, send it back to Newegg.com?

Disco the HDD and one stick of memory... 245meg? Don't think they come in
that size. : )

Onboard video? Any other cards you can yank out?

 

[Machine Messiah]

Disco the HDD and one stick of memory... 245meg? Don't think they come in
that size. : )

snip
Ooops, 256mb.
snip

Onboard video? Any other cards you can yank out?

snip
Yeah, it has onboard video, audio, no other cards to remove.
Actually the first time I turned it on the hd wasn't connected either,
I only connected it to try and see if anything else on the board was
working besides the cpu fan.

 

[*Vanguard*]

"Machine Messiah" said in

Just finished installing an Abit IS-10 (mATX intel I865G). Switch on
the power, no beeps, error message from monitor to check conection to
pc. Cpu fan fires up fine.
System also has :
350 watt supply,
2 245mb Buffalo ddr 400 ram
Celeron 2.4 ghz, 400 fsb
Connected a hd, it's getting power.
Disconnected all the front panel switches except the power on,
no help there. Also, the pc will not shut down with the power button,
it has to be unplugged.
What do I do now, send it back to Newegg.com?

Have you checked the voltages for the power supply outputs with a
multimeter?

 

[Machine Messiah]

"Machine Messiah" said in


Have you checked the voltages for the power supply outputs with a
multimeter?

I have no such tool.

 

[William W. Plummer]

Just finished installing an Abit IS-10 (mATX intel I865G). Switch on the
power, no beeps, error message from monitor to check conection to pc. Cpu
fan fires up fine.
System also has :
350 watt supply,
2 245mb Buffalo ddr 400 ram
Celeron 2.4 ghz, 400 fsb
Connected a hd, it's getting power.
Disconnected all the front panel switches except the power on,
no help there. Also, the pc will not shut down with the power button, it
has to be unplugged.

The power button logic runs off an always-on power supply. You can check
that with a voltmeter. Get the ATX Power Supply spec from intel.com .

Standard procedure: UNPLUG the machine to kill all power supplies. Remove
all boards except a simple VGA display card and some memory. Discharge the
CMOS memory -- see your manual. This just means moving a jumper to a
different set of pins on a header for a few seconds.

Try it.. Start adding back cards one-by-one. But have the power off while
inserting each.

 

[kony]

Just finished installing an Abit IS-10 (mATX intel I865G). Switch on the
power, no beeps, error message from monitor to check conection to pc. Cpu
fan fires up fine.
System also has :
350 watt supply,
2 245mb Buffalo ddr 400 ram
Celeron 2.4 ghz, 400 fsb
Connected a hd, it's getting power.
Disconnected all the front panel switches except the power on,
no help there. Also, the pc will not shut down with the power button, it
has to be unplugged.
What do I do now, send it back to Newegg.com?

Is that a generic, came-with-case power supply?
Proper procedure is to use a multimeter to take voltage readings. If the
power supply is generic then the odds are high that it's the problem.

You didn't mention the make, model of motherboard. Confirm that it's
jumpers are set correctly and try clearing CMOS. Check for loose power
cable, memory, cards, or mounting studs where there shouldn't be any.

 

[Machine Messiah]

snip

The power button logic runs off an always-on power supply. You can check
that with a voltmeter. Get the ATX Power Supply spec from intel.com .

Standard procedure: UNPLUG the machine to kill all power supplies. Remove
all boards except a simple VGA display card and some memory. Discharge the
CMOS memory -- see your manual. This just means moving a jumper to a
different set of pins on a header for a few seconds.

Try it.. Start adding back cards one-by-one. But have the power off while
inserting each.

I have no cards to remove.
MOBO has onboard audio, video, lan.
I have not installed a modem or any drives.
I do not own a simple vga display card. I was not going to buy a card
until I saw quality of the onboard video.
I do not own a voltmeter and would not recogonize one if I saw one.
What happens to the bios if I discharge the CMOS memory?

 

[Machine Messiah]

snip

Proper procedure is to use a multimeter to take voltage readings. If the
power supply is generic then the odds are high that it's the problem.

snip
Don't have one, wouldn't recognize one, wouldn't recognize proper voltage
readings either. How much does a multimeter cost? What would be the
correct voltage readings?
I guess I have to point out that I am female. I own a drill, a powerscrew
driver, a dremel, a stud-finder and variety of hammers, screwdrivers etc.

snip

You didn't mention the make, model of motherboard.

.... errrr, then what does this mean? Quoting myself now from my original
post: "Just finished installing an Abit IS-10 (mATX intel I865G). "
Again, it's an ABIT IS-10 mATX intel I865G.
http://www.abit-usa.com/products/mb/products.php?categories=1&model=137

snip

Confirm that it's

jumpers are set correctly and try clearing CMOS. Check for loose power
cable, memory, cards, or mounting studs where there shouldn't be any.

snip

I checked all that before my first message.
I didn't mess with the jumpers but I will try that.
I have an Arrow 300 watt power supply I could put in the case. Should I
try that first before clearing the CMOS? What happens if you clear the
CMOS? I thought you weren't supposed to do that unless you wanted to
upgrade the BIOS. I have never flashed a BIOS.

 

[Lenroc]

Don't have one, wouldn't recognize one, wouldn't recognize proper voltage
readings either. How much does a multimeter cost?

As with most things in life, you can spend almost any amount you desire!

I spent less than $20, to buy something comparable to:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.a...y_name=CTLG_011_008_002_000&product_id=22-218

You can get a digital one for a small amount more, though I'm not sure how
good the cheapest digital ones are...

What would be the correct voltage readings?

The correct readings would be whatever you are expecting to see on that
PSU lead. Some are +5V, some are +12V, etc. The Power Supply would have
that information either on a sticker on the unit itself, or in a manual
that came with it.

The multimeter will have some minimal directions on how to use it, much
better than I could describe in a post like this

 

[Pen]

Clearing the cmos merely resets the machine to the BIOS defaults,
which is what it should have been when you first turned it on.
Doing it again can't hurt and might help.

 

[Machine Messiah]

On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 14:43:15 +0000, Machine Messiah wrote: snip

As with most things in life, you can spend almost any amount you desire!

I spent less than $20, to buy something comparable to:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.a...y_name=CTLG_011_008_002_000&product_id=22-218

You can get a digital one for a small amount more, though I'm not sure how
good the cheapest digital ones are...


The correct readings would be whatever you are expecting to see on that
PSU lead. Some are +5V, some are +12V, etc. The Power Supply would have
that information either on a sticker on the unit itself, or in a manual
that came with it.

The multimeter will have some minimal directions on how to use it, much
better than I could describe in a post like this

Great, thanks for that info.
I wonder what else I could use for?

 

[kony]

snip
Don't have one, wouldn't recognize one, wouldn't recognize proper voltage
readings either. How much does a multimeter cost? What would be the
correct voltage readings?

So what power supply make/model is is?

I guess I have to point out that I am female. I own a drill, a powerscrew
driver, a dremel, a stud-finder and variety of hammers, screwdrivers etc.

A basic digital multimeter from someplace like Radio Shack might cost $25,
and while not the most accurate would be sufficient for this basic test.

The ATX connector has holes in the back, at which point the wires enter
it. With system powered on you would carefully take readings of each
different color and voltage specification. Here is a guide:
http://69.36.189.159/usr_1034/atx_on.gif
However since the picture is of the pin-side, not wire-side, you'd have to
mentally reverse the image, though "usually" the correct colors will still
correspond to each set of wires. There is no need to be concerned about
-12V or -5V readings that are off spec, those voltages may not be used nor
regulated well and so can be ignored. Of course these readings need to be
taken when the system is turned on, or in your case, powered up when it's
suppoed to be POSTing.

The other voltages should be within +-5% for 3V, 5V, and +_10% for 12V.
However, sometimes a power supply of insufficient capacity will initially
appear to have proper voltage levels within this spec but one voltage (for
example 5V) will be too low and another (like 12V) will be too high. If
that's the case it may also be a sign of a problem and it might be helpful
if you posted the readings you see.

... errrr, then what does this mean? Quoting myself now from my original
post: "Just finished installing an Abit IS-10 (mATX intel I865G). "
Again, it's an ABIT IS-10 mATX intel I865G.
http://www.abit-usa.com/products/mb/products.php?categories=1&model=137

Sorry, must get some sleep someday soon. Unfortunately I have no
experience with that board nor do I recall any specific issues with it.

Confirm that it's
snip

I checked all that before my first message.
I didn't mess with the jumpers but I will try that.
I have an Arrow 300 watt power supply I could put in the case. Should I
try that first before clearing the CMOS? What happens if you clear the
CMOS? I thought you weren't supposed to do that unless you wanted to
upgrade the BIOS. I have never flashed a BIOS.

Clearing the CMOS will reset all values to the BIOS defaults, except that
may have no effect on anything set by an onboard jumper or switch. I'd go
ahead and try that first, as it's a lot easier than switching power
supplies, then if it didn't help, switch the power supply. Since you
already have the 2nd power supply but not the multimeter, it might make
more sense to try them first.

 

[Machine Messiah]

There was a nick on the electical line for the power switch. Nothing
frayed, just nicked enough to see the wire inside.
We painted it with electrical paint and the machine started normally.
Now I have to reconnected all those damn tiny plugs >yuck<
Many thanks for all the replies.

 

[*Vanguard*]

"Machine Messiah" said in

Great, thanks for that info.
I wonder what else I could use for?

Just visit your local Radio Shack (http://snipurl.com/5vw2). Might even
find one at Target, Walmart, BestBuy, hardware store, etc. You can
spend $20 to get a cheap low-grade but usable multimeter to measure
voltages, or you can spend that shipping it all back, get replacements,
and possibly have the same problem again. If you can't touch 2 probes
to connectors to measure voltages and are unwilling to get the
prerequisite tools to build - and troubleshoot - a computer then
slapping one together is probably not something you should tackle.
Considering your lack of experience in using or unwillingness to get a
multimeter, I also suspect you took no anti-static precautions when
handling the components and you might've zapped them dead. Did you
ground yourself to the case (with the power supply installed and the
grounded power cord plugged into a grounded outlet)? Did you use an
anti-static wrist strap? You might do better to spend the $20 to buy a
pre-fabbed barebones system that has already been put together, tested,
and burned in.

If you decide to get a multimeter to check the voltages, you'll need to
provide a load on the power supply. The hard drive should do. With the
20-pin Molex connector attached to the motherboard (so pin 14 for PS-ON
gets shorted so the power supply knows it is plugged into a motherboard
and lets the power supply come on), use a diagram like
http://www.hardwarebook.net/connector/power/atxpower.html to measure
those voltages. Measured voltages should be within 5% of their rating.
Some motherboards require an additional 12V connector, as shown at
http://www.hardwarebook.net/connector/power/atx12v.html, because not
enough current can be supplied through the 12V wires (not thick enough)
in the 20-pin Molex connector. You would need an ATX +12V power supply
(it has the 20-pin Molex connector and the 4-pin square Molex connector
for the additional 12V lines).
http://www.abit-usa.com/products/mb/products.php?categories=1&model=137
has a picture (click on it) and shows the 4-pin square 12V Molex
connector at the upper right corner just behind the PS/2 keyboard and
mouse connectors on the backside of the motherboard. Does your power
supply have the 4-pin connector? Did you connect it?

Other uses for a multimeter:
- Checking the AC voltage in your outlets, especially to check correct
polarity.
- Checking continuity on any wiring. Useful to check cables.
- Checking the voltage on your car battery, or any battery, like those C
and D cells. If you have rechargeable batteries, like a pair of AA's
used for a remote, sometimes one goes bad (won't recharge to full
voltage) and the multimeter will identify which one won't take a full
charge.

 

[*Vanguard*]

"Machine Messiah" said in

There was a nick on the electical line for the power switch. Nothing
frayed, just nicked enough to see the wire inside.
We painted it with electrical paint and the machine started normally.
Now I have to reconnected all those damn tiny plugs >yuck<
Many thanks for all the replies.

Also be careful or torquing wires around any sharp edge, especially if a
metal edge. It can eventually pierce through the insulation to make a
short circuit. By "paint" did you mean you used heatshrink tubing,
rubber goop and electrical tape, or some nail polish or just paint? If
you just used paint, well, we'll be seeing you back here later when it
shorts again.

By the way, if you really don't want to learn how to use a multimeter
(which has many other uses besides for your computer), you can get a
power supply tester
(http://www.bestbyte.net/Product.cfm?ProductID=1413&CategoryID=3&Keyword
=tester) for real cheap that will check that each voltage is within
range (and you can test without ever plugging it into the motherboard
and risking burning something out because of over-voltage). It provides
the short on the PS-On (pin 14) signal and also provides the needed load
(no-load voltage measurements won't tell you what the real voltage will
be when connected).

 

[Trent©]

There was a nick on the electical line for the power switch. Nothing
frayed, just nicked enough to see the wire inside.
We painted it with electrical paint and the machine started normally.
Now I have to reconnected all those damn tiny plugs >yuck<
Many thanks for all the replies.

That can't possibly be the solution to your problem.

At the very least, you should buy a different power cord.


Have a nice week...

Trent

What do you call a smart blonde?
A golden retriever.

 

[half_pint]

I have no cards to remove.
MOBO has onboard audio, video, lan.
I have not installed a modem or any drives.
I do not own a simple vga display card. I was not going to buy a card
until I saw quality of the onboard video.
I do not own a voltmeter and would not recogonize one if I saw one.

It may well say 'Voltmeter' on the front.
A red 'probe' lead and a black one may also be present.
A display saying 'Volts' is a good clue/

 

[half_pint]

There was a nick on the electical line for the power switch. Nothing
frayed, just nicked enough to see the wire inside.
We painted it with electrical paint and the machine started normally.
Now I have to reconnected all those damn tiny plugs >yuck<
Many thanks for all the replies.

A nick on the insulation on a wire should not be a problem in itself,
unless the exposed wire is touching another exposed wire or the metal
casing (I assume it was and that the casing probably caused the nick).
I am unsure what electrical paint is, it seems a rather unusual substance
to have around for someone who doesnt know what a voltmeter is.
A bit of insulating tape would probably provide a more durable
solution, however its fixed now so I doubt you will be to bothered
unless the problem reappears.
Its one or the problems of having long sharp nails I guess :O|

 

[half_pint]

snip

snip
Don't have one, wouldn't recognize one, wouldn't recognize proper voltage
readings either. How much does a multimeter cost? What would be the
correct voltage readings?
I guess I have to point out that I am female. I own a drill, a powerscrew
driver, a dremel, a stud-finder and variety of hammers, screwdrivers etc.

I guess a "Stud Finder" is pretty useful if you are a female.
Some kind of low cut dress with a short skirt no doubt. ;O)