failing to verify

F

Frank McCoy

In alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt "relic"
Download this freebie, read a "blank" (according to you) DVD and then
explain the data you just read from it.
http://www.vso-software.fr/products/inspector/inspector.php

After that, you may **** off.
You mean the information that tells what size the disk is and what speed
it supports?

Yeah, real data there.
NOT.

Somebody is going to read that information and find out what kind of
stuff you have on your computer?

I think not.

Kind of like detecting whether a 3 1/2" floppy drive supports
double-side or double-density. Yeah, right.
 
J

Julie

Frank said:
In alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt "relic"

You mean the information that tells what size the disk is and what
speed it supports?

Yeah, real data there.
NOT.

Sorry idiot, it IS real data... including the Manufacturer.

Now, like relic suggested, "you may **** off."


<rest of frank's shite snipped... unread>
 
D

Damian

Frank said:
In alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt "relic"

You mean the information that tells what size the disk is and what
speed it supports?

Yeah, real data there.
NOT.

Somebody is going to read that information and find out what kind of
stuff you have on your computer?

I think not.

Kind of like detecting whether a 3 1/2" floppy drive supports
double-side or double-density. Yeah, right.

Why do you insist on proving you're a fool? Remember what the OP contained:
"When I put in a blank disk it takes a moment (maybe 10 seconds or so) to
read the disk."

It is fact; the "blank" disk is being read, it contains data that identifies
it as a DVD-R or as a DVD+R, It has information on it that identifies its
supported recording speeds, ad infinitum. You've gone on some tangent about
Blank HDs, Blank FDs, etc. that have nothing to do with the OP's question,
nor with what you are trying to argue (incorrectly, I might add) with
'relic'.

Bottom line: 'relic' is correct, you are 100% wrong. Take his suggestion:
**** off, and stop providing more prove that you are an idiot; we all see
it!
 
A

Abraham Durceau

"Craig" said:
I have a samsung dvd burner <...> It burns fine. I can <...> play [a
recorded disk] on the home dvd player.
Does a capacity of blank DVD's correspond to the source volume? I know that
some of them are slightly larger than an overburn limit of 4.7, so you may
not see the supplementary stuff :-(.

Advise: if you are doubtful about the actual volume of a stuff you want to
write on a 4.7 DVD, create an image of a projected disk (use an 'Image
recorder' option instead of 'Samsung DVD' in Nero).
My record was 4.640.959.556 (with all overburning options). Note that if a
HDD volume on which you place an image is FAT32 - formatted, then an image
is split between two files; the first one is always 4.294.967.295 bytes
(xxx.nrg), and second (named xxx.nrg.001) shall be up to 325.000.000; less
or more - depends upon recorder and disks.

After a proper image is created, you may:
- record DVDs from it;
- load it as a virtual drive (Nero Image Drive); in this case size does not
matter.
Problem is <...> it's failing to verify the disk.
A source disk may have some 'hidden' tricks. I know that an 'Alcohol 120%'
software has some means to consider them, and to make your copy 'more
exact'. A help file for this prog may tell you more upon that subject.
 
C

chrisv

Frank said:
In alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt "relic"

You mean the information that tells what size the disk is and what
speed it supports?

Yeah, real data there.
NOT.

Somebody is going to read that information and find out what kind of
stuff you have on your computer?

I think not.

Kind of like detecting whether a 3 1/2" floppy drive supports
double-side or double-density. Yeah, right.


Don't look now ****wit, but it is DATA; just like you've been told.
 
D

Damian

Frank said:
They work for both. LOOK at their specifications.
Besides, it's either clean the crap off the Laser or throw the drive
away. Your choice.

Rephrased: "...it's either clean the crap off the Laser and throw the broken
drive away, or throw the drive away with crap on the Laser. Your choice."
 
A

Abraham Durceau

OOps... sorry for resending: this post appeared in a wrong place under name
'Back to topic'
============

"Craig" said:
I have a samsung dvd burner <...> It burns fine. I can <...> play [a
recorded disk] on the home dvd player.
Does a capacity of blank DVD's correspond to the source volume? I know that
some of them are slightly larger than an overburn limit of 4.7, so you may
not see the supplementary stuff :-(.

Advise: if you are doubtful about the actual volume of a stuff you want to
write on a 4.7 DVD, create an image of a projected disk (use an 'Image
recorder' option instead of 'Samsung DVD' in Nero).
My record was 4.640.959.556 (with all overburning options). Note that if a
HDD volume on which you place an image is FAT32 - formatted, then an image
is split between two files; the first one is always 4.294.967.295 bytes
(xxx.nrg), and second (named xxx.nrg.001) shall be up to 325.000.000; less
or more - depends upon recorder and disks.

After a proper image is created, you may:
- record DVDs from it;
- load it as a virtual drive (Nero Image Drive); in this case size does not
matter.
Problem is <...> it's failing to verify the disk.
A source disk may have some 'hidden' tricks. I know that an 'Alcohol 120%'
software has some means to consider them, and to make your copy 'more
exact'. A help file for this prog may tell you more upon that subject.
 
R

Rebecca

Frank said:
In alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt "relic"

You mean the information that tells what size the disk is and what
speed it supports?

Yeah, real data there.
NOT.

Somebody is going to read that information and find out what kind of
stuff you have on your computer?

I think not.

Kind of like detecting whether a 3 1/2" floppy drive supports
double-side or double-density. Yeah, right.

You could have quit while you were behind, now you sound like a woman scorned squealing something like "I got cheated!"
 
F

Franc Zabkar

In alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt "chrisv" <[email protected]>
wrote:
They work for both. LOOK at their specifications.
Besides, it's either clean the crap off the Laser or throw the drive
away. Your choice.

See "Notes on the Troubleshooting and Repair of Compact Disc Players
and CDROM Drives":

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/cdfaq.htm#cdcdlcd

Among other things, the author cautions that one should "NEVER put [a
CD lens cleaning disc] into a high-X CDROM (DVD player or DVDROM
drive). The high speed rotation may cause the cleaning disc and/or
player/drive to self destruct".

- Franc Zabkar
 
R

Rebecca

Franc said:
In alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt "chrisv" <[email protected]>
wrote:
They work for both. LOOK at their specifications.
Besides, it's either clean the crap off the Laser or throw the drive
away. Your choice.

See "Notes on the Troubleshooting and Repair of Compact Disc Players
and CDROM Drives":

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/cdfaq.htm#cdcdlcd

Among other things, the author cautions that one should "NEVER put [a
CD lens cleaning disc] into a high-X CDROM (DVD player or DVDROM
drive). The high speed rotation may cause the cleaning disc and/or
player/drive to self destruct".

Seems that everyone but Frank McCoy knows that. How long is a.c.h.p-h going
to let him dispense his bullshite in here? It obvious by this thread alone
that he knows little, but trys to belittle everyone.
 
C

Craig

Frank McCoy said:
In alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt Franc Zabkar

Or try getting a CD/DVD cleaner.
The drive might need replacing too.
I've got a cd\dvd cleaner, one of those with the small bristles, but I'm not
sure how well they actually work, but I'll give it a try.
 
F

Frank McCoy

In alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt "Damian said:
Possibly.
But if the laser is dirty, he'd need that anyway.
Sometimes it pays to do things with stuff that's going into the scrap
heap that isn't recommended for working devices.

Just like they say, NEVER EVER open a hard-drive.
I've had a couple with bad bearings that couldn't even be started up.
So, against all advice, I opened the drive, lubricated the bearings, and
got the thing to work well enough that I copied the data over onto
another drive. The relubricated drive then continued to work for over
two more years; but it was relegated to the "non-trustworthy" set.

When you have to trash something anyway, sometimes it PAYS to ignore
advice against doing things that will supposedly ruin the thing. After
all, what have you got to lose?

I learned this as a kid, when my mother used to throw out old
alarm-clocks that didn't work. I salvaged them, took them apart,
cleaned them, and put them back together. *Completely* unrecommended by
the manufacturer, you understand, who made good money out of selling new
mechanical clocks about every year or so to people.

The first two or three I took apart, I never managed to get back
together. From then on, only about one in ten didn't resume running as
good or better than from the factory, when I finished. I still have one
out in the garage that still works after close to fifty years now ...
One my mother had discarded because it was "broke".

What loss is it if you "break" something that's already broken?

And a CD drive with a dirty laser head is just that: Something you
SCRAP, not repair. Taking it to a repairman would cost more than the
price of a new drive. However, running a "cleaning disk" under the
thing costs a buck or two at most; and if it gets the drive to work,
then it saves a bunch of money.

If not, then you haven't lost much, have you?
Certainly not a good drive, which you didn't have anyway.

Geesh.
If it won't write properly, then *TRY* cleaning it.
If that doesn't work, THEN throw it away and buy a new one.
Complaining that using a cleaning-disk *might* destroy an already dead
drive is ... Well, pretty dumb, in my opinion.

Many things that are quite dumb to do with a *working* device, actually
make quite good sense to try and rescue something that's going in the
trash otherwise. So you might destroy an already dead drive. So bloody
WHAT?

Geesh.

If you're trying to be "helpful",
instead of yelling, "Don't do that!"
why not give a valid alternative?
 
R

Rebecca

Frank said:
Possibly.
But if the laser is dirty, he'd need that anyway.
Sometimes it pays to do things with stuff that's going into the scrap
heap that isn't recommended for working devices.

Just like they say, NEVER EVER open a hard-drive.
I've had a couple with bad bearings that couldn't even be started up.
So, against all advice, I opened the drive, lubricated the bearings,
and got the thing to work well enough that I copied the data over onto
another drive. The relubricated drive then continued to work for over
two more years; but it was relegated to the "non-trustworthy" set.

When you have to trash something anyway, sometimes it PAYS to ignore
advice against doing things that will supposedly ruin the thing.
After all, what have you got to lose?

I learned this as a kid, when my mother used to throw out old
alarm-clocks that didn't work. I salvaged them, took them apart,
cleaned them, and put them back together. *Completely* unrecommended
by the manufacturer, you understand, who made good money out of
selling new mechanical clocks about every year or so to people.

The first two or three I took apart, I never managed to get back
together. From then on, only about one in ten didn't resume running
as good or better than from the factory, when I finished. I still
have one out in the garage that still works after close to fifty
years now ... One my mother had discarded because it was "broke".

What loss is it if you "break" something that's already broken?

And a CD drive with a dirty laser head is just that: Something you
SCRAP, not repair. Taking it to a repairman would cost more than the
price of a new drive. However, running a "cleaning disk" under the
thing costs a buck or two at most; and if it gets the drive to work,
then it saves a bunch of money.

If not, then you haven't lost much, have you?
Certainly not a good drive, which you didn't have anyway.

Geesh.
If it won't write properly, then *TRY* cleaning it.
If that doesn't work, THEN throw it away and buy a new one.
Complaining that using a cleaning-disk *might* destroy an already dead
drive is ... Well, pretty dumb, in my opinion.

Many things that are quite dumb to do with a *working* device,
actually make quite good sense to try and rescue something that's
going in the trash otherwise. So you might destroy an already dead
drive. So bloody WHAT?

Geesh.

If you're trying to be "helpful",
instead of yelling, "Don't do that!"
why not give a valid alternative?

That's a "stand-alone" if I ever saw one. No comment necessary.
 
F

Franc Zabkar

I've got a cd\dvd cleaner, one of those with the small bristles, but I'm not
sure how well they actually work, but I'll give it a try.

If you can, clean the lens with a cotton bud moistened with water.

- Franc Zabkar
 
D

Dave H.

Craig said:
No not a blank disk. Apparently I have failed to explain it where you
would be able to comprehend what I said. I'll try again.

1: I burn a disk.
2. The burn is successful.
3. The verification process fails.
4. I take the disk and play it in a dvd player and it plays fine.

are you with me so far???

My question is on the disk failing to verify. If I can play the disk on
the home dvd player, then it should verify ok. But it doesn't.

Oh, and by the way, please don't come back with something inane like check
your firmware, or update ide drivers, because I've already check that.
duh.

Nero seems to be the problem, or Nero + burner + certain media. Nero
V6-something burns fine but fails to perform a verification with just some
of the media, when burning certain formats. The disks and burns are fine,
passing other integrity tests (zip, rar, MD5 checks). Try another brand
(different media code). A box of cheap Playo DVD-R 8x (UME01) does this on
one of my burners.
 

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