Epson 4990: SilverFast Ai vs. Epson

Z

Z Man

I just upgraded to the 4990 Pro from my 1200 purchased in 9/99. My scanner
came with SilverFast Ai. When using Photoshop, I see that I can use
Silverfast or the Epson scanner driver. The Epson enables ICE, while the
Silverfast evidently does not. My initial job will be scanning a set of
about fifty roughly 40 year old proofs. The photos are mostly color, with
some black and white. Future scanning jobs will always be photos. I have a
Ricoh 1035 for office document work. I am a novice at this, and am not
seeking to become a pro. Thus, I would like the hardware and software to do
most of the hard work, and I will expend a little additional effort in
Photoshop to finish it up.

Questions: should I be using Silverfast or Epson to initiate my scans?
Should I scan at 600dpi? I can fit four photos on the glass at the same
time, which will drastically speed up my job, but will I sacrifice quality?
Should I be saving my scans in Photoshop's notice format, or another format?
 
R

RBudding

Z said:
I just upgraded to the 4990 Pro from my 1200 purchased in 9/99. My scanner
came with SilverFast Ai. When using Photoshop, I see that I can use
Silverfast or the Epson scanner driver. The Epson enables ICE, while the
Silverfast evidently does not. My initial job will be scanning a set of
about fifty roughly 40 year old proofs. The photos are mostly color, with
some black and white. Future scanning jobs will always be photos. I have a
Ricoh 1035 for office document work. I am a novice at this, and am not
seeking to become a pro. Thus, I would like the hardware and software to do
most of the hard work, and I will expend a little additional effort in
Photoshop to finish it up.

Questions: should I be using Silverfast or Epson to initiate my scans?
Should I scan at 600dpi? I can fit four photos on the glass at the same
time, which will drastically speed up my job, but will I sacrifice quality?
Should I be saving my scans in Photoshop's notice format, or another format?

Silverfast Ai does support ICE on the 4990. There's an ICE icon in the
scan window about 1/2 way down. It's engaged when you click the icon
and it turns from grey to color.
 
B

bmoag

LIke everything that has alternative ways to do things you have to
experiment to see what works best for you.
I sort of wonder why you bought a scanner with this kind of software if you
want auto everything.
If you want auto-everything that option exists in the Epson driver.
Alas, you must still read the instructions . . .
 
Z

Z Man

bmoag said:
LIke everything that has alternative ways to do things you have to
experiment to see what works best for you.
I sort of wonder why you bought a scanner with this kind of software if
you want auto everything.
If you want auto-everything that option exists in the Epson driver.
Alas, you must still read the instructions . . .

I don't want 'auto everything', I just want the hardware and software to
help me get the best possible scans. I understand that on 'full auto' I
don't get ICE. I guess I'm just trying to learn my way around the current
technology.
 
Z

Z Man

RBudding said:
Silverfast Ai does support ICE on the 4990. There's an ICE icon in the
scan window about 1/2 way down. It's engaged when you click the icon
and it turns from grey to color.

Thanks, I didn't see that option. I should learn to look more closely. It
appears as if Silverfast Ai gives me the same basic features as the Epson
scan, plus a bunch of other possibilities.
 
O

One4All

Z said:
My initial job will be scanning a set of
about fifty roughly 40 year old proofs. The photos are mostly color, with
some black and white.

Use Epson Scan in professional mode. Scan the color photos separately
from the B/W's, since the software allows only one color mode per scan.
You can place however many photos on the glass that can fit, altho
don't push it. Not knowing the dimensions of your photos, I suggest you
place them to favor the center of the glass, i.e., four in the center
is preferable to six out to the margins. According to Wayne Fulton,
<http://www.scantips.com>, set Destination resolution (for photos) to
300 dpi. Click Preview. In Preview, use the Marquee to outline the
portions, if any, of the photos you want to scan. If you want to
reproduce the same size of the photo, leave Target Size as Original.
Clicking the Target Size>Original drop-down menu shows other sizes to
which you may want to scale your print.
Questions: should I be using Silverfast or Epson to initiate my scans?

Use Epson.
Should I scan at 600dpi? No. See above.
I can fit four photos on the glass at the same
time, which will drastically speed up my job, but will I sacrifice quality?

No. See above.
Should I be saving my scans in Photoshop's notice format, or another format?

I'm using Epson Scan as a stand-alone software. I'm saving the scans to
a folder in .TIFF format & from there I'll open in PS. BTW, what is
PS's "notice" format? Never mind.

You need to educate yourself about scanning. Wayne Fulton's website is
a good place to start. Also, go to the Internet newsgroups, like this
one, devoted to the subject. Finally, Epson Scan is an excellent,
user-friendly scanner driver. Between Wayne & Epson, you can't go
wrong. KISS.
 
F

false_dmitrii

Z said:
I just upgraded to the 4990 Pro from my 1200 purchased in 9/99. My scanner
came with SilverFast Ai. When using Photoshop, I see that I can use
Silverfast or the Epson scanner driver. The Epson enables ICE, while the
Silverfast evidently does not. My initial job will be scanning a set of
about fifty roughly 40 year old proofs. The photos are mostly color, with
some black and white. Future scanning jobs will always be photos. I have a
Ricoh 1035 for office document work. I am a novice at this, and am not
seeking to become a pro. Thus, I would like the hardware and software to do
most of the hard work, and I will expend a little additional effort in
Photoshop to finish it up.

Questions: should I be using Silverfast or Epson to initiate my scans?
Should I scan at 600dpi? I can fit four photos on the glass at the same
time, which will drastically speed up my job, but will I sacrifice quality?
Should I be saving my scans in Photoshop's notice format, or another format?

I'll second most of One4All's advice.

The 2 possible problems when scanning multiple photos are using less
than optimum areas of the scanning bed (you'll just have to test this)
and getting a one-size-fits-all autoexposure (but this shouldn't be a
problem if you scan each image separately with its own marquee).

Silverfast AI is considerably more powerful than Epson Scan. It's a
little harder to get used to, but not overly so. Its biggest strength
is its many different color correction tools and its higher-quality
automation features. Unfortunately, the interface gets in the way, and
there are lots of obscure technical settings that might or might not
affect your output. Give it a try and see if you like the results any
better, but don't fret if it's just too much to handle.

Read the Scantips book or website. Read it again. If nothing else,
learn to read and use a histogram if you don't know already--it's all
you'll really need for most adjustments. Epson Scan's "Auto" exposure
button cuts out too much highlight and shadow detail from negatives for
my tastes, but it should work fine for your prints. Just remember to
crop the scanning marquee so that it contains only the print and no
surroundings, and apply autoexposure (and any custom adjustments) to
each image separately. Unless your scans are your final output, you
should *probably* turn off unsharp mask and save sharpening for
Photoshop, since it can cause all sorts of problems during later
adjustments. ICE for prints was unimpressive on my 4870 and sometimes
broke more than it fixed; test it well before deciding whether to use
it. Leave descreening off unless you're working with halftone prints
(newspaper, magazine, etc.).

300 dpi/ppi is plenty for most print scans. Use higher sampling only
if you think you might want the extra size at some point
(enlargements?) *and* the 600ppi scan shows additional detail when
compared 1:1 to the 300ppi image Bicubic resized to 200% in Photoshop.
Otherwise you can just resize the 300ppi scan when needed.

Save as TIFF if you plan to do much editing to your images, since JPEGs
get messier each time you save them. But they're OK if you don't have
much disk space and don't plan to edit them further.

Also, you didn't ask, but you should be fine with the
24bit/8bit-per-channel setting. 48bit is mostly for major corrections
like substantially brightening the darkest shadows or converting
between wide color spaces (not likely to arise in your prints). Use it
only if you have a compelling reason.

There was discussion recently about whether Epson Scan can output
anything other than sRGB color. Since you don't want any hassle,
you're best off sticking to sRGB output whether in Epson Scan or
Silverfast. Anything else will look wrong in many applications unless
you convert it to sRGB in Photoshop. However, if you understand color
management, you could go with AdobeRGB or similar to preserve more of
the print's color range. If so, you might want to test whether Epson
Scan's "Adobe RGB" output matches up to Silverfast's. If it doesn't,
that's one more reason to go with Silverfast.

Hope this helps get you going.
false_dmitrii
 

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