DC fans

F

Frank

Just want to know if anyone has one of these 100+ cfm sunon or panaflo
fans. I'd like to know how loud exactly they can be a full speed and how
quite and performing they can be at minimum revs.
My application is to cool a watercooling HW Labs xtreme radiator. I went
watercooling to have a dead silent pc and not to overclock in general. So
the fan would always be at minimum revs and maybe turn it off if temps are
not too high. But when gaming, i'd like to have full power and noise would
be less of a factor but still, I don't want a vaccum cleaner in my pc. I've
heard these fans a screaming loud.
Just want real life opinions about these. Other fan suggestions are welcomed
too.
Thanks
 
F

Floyd L. Davidson

Frank said:
Just want to know if anyone has one of these 100+ cfm sunon or panaflo
fans. I'd like to know how loud exactly they can be a full speed and how
quite and performing they can be at minimum revs.
My application is to cool a watercooling HW Labs xtreme radiator. I went
watercooling to have a dead silent pc and not to overclock in general. So
the fan would always be at minimum revs and maybe turn it off if temps are
not too high. But when gaming, i'd like to have full power and noise would
be less of a factor but still, I don't want a vaccum cleaner in my pc. I've
heard these fans a screaming loud.
Just want real life opinions about these. Other fan suggestions are welcomed
too.
Thanks

Regardless of the fan(s) you use, have you looked at the
Crystalfontz CF633 units? It can do two things your system
needs, 1) monitor temperature probes and 2) control fans.

Which is to say, it can be used to throttle those screaming loud
fans right down to nothing when they aren't needed.

It takes a bit of non-trivial software development, but a water
cooled system controlled by a CF633 can monitor temperatures in
a number of locations (coolant and air), and automatically
adjust the fan speed to the heat load. It also has failsafe
shutdown hardware for ATX power supplies.

The blurb on it is here,

http://www.crystalfontz.com/products/633/index.html

And the data sheet is here,

http://www.crystalfontz.com/products/633/CFA_633_k1_9a.pdf

I'm using 1 serial model and 1 USB model, and have been extremely
satisfied.
 
K

kony

Just want to know if anyone has one of these 100+ cfm sunon or panaflo
fans.

I have both, have had/used/sold/etc several models and
speeds.


I'd like to know how loud exactly they can be a full speed and how
quite and performing they can be at minimum revs.

Which model, size, flow rate?
Ideally you'd use the largest diameter and thickest fan the
space allows. "Full speed" is relative to the particular
model. If your concern is noise (as it should be, there is
no need for max possible speed out of a large fan except in
some kind of non-traditional system or extreme environment),
then don't choose the fastest speed model in any give
family. For example with the Panaflos, there's "L", "M",
"H" and even higher in some models. Seldom is anything
faster than "M" needed in a larger fan, and usually "L" is
sufficient.



My application is to cool a watercooling HW Labs xtreme radiator.

You seem to have left out a vital detail- What size fan it
can accept.

This can be signficant for the question posed in particular
because Sunon's 120 x 38 mm fans don't respond well at all
to voltage reduction. Far sooner than many, they begin to
have too little torque to overcome the magnet and make a
pulsing sound and far less linear RPM (& flow) reduction
with no addditional noise reduction, even introduction of a
new noise from the irregular RPM rate.

I went
watercooling to have a dead silent pc and not to overclock in general. So
the fan would always be at minimum revs and maybe turn it off if temps are
not too high. But when gaming, i'd like to have full power and noise would
be less of a factor but still, I don't want a vaccum cleaner in my pc. I've
heard these fans a screaming loud.
Just want real life opinions about these. Other fan suggestions are welcomed
too.

The key to quiet is to keep fans at minimal speeds. If one
fan at minimal speed isn't sufficient while gaming, add
another fan, turning the 2nd fan on when heat rises.
However, with an optimal fan strategy it isn't even
necessary to control fans turning on/off or changing RPM at
all. Remember that it is not at all necessary for a PC to
always remain at a constant temperature, only to stay under
your target temp. That's not advice against implementing a
fan control of some sort, only that it isn't necessary and
depending on the control method, could be less reliable in
the longer term.

Panaflo is your best bet. Papst are good too but pricy.
This assumes vertical orientation of the fan, for
non-vertical (horizontal or ANY other non-vertical angle)
you may want dual ball-bearing rather than sleeve fans to
prolong their lifespan in these orientations.

Everyone has their own idea of what "quiet enough" is. It
can vary based on chassis quality, mounting method for
fan(s), and system placement in addition to other factors.
Point being, some might find a 120x38mm "M" Panaflo quiet
enough when undervolted. Most would find it louder than
they "like" at full speed. Remember that you don't
necessarily have to choose between the low-speed for idle
and full speed, but could just as well choose between one
undervolted speed and a higher undervolted speed during
(gaming or whatever).

This potential for never running at full speed unless you
really need to, makes an "M" speed more flexible than "L".
L speed is more tailored towards low noise though, and is
sufficient for most systems especially if the case intake is
large enough and mostly unobsstructed. Optimally more than
one "L" speed would be used for the most control at lowest
noise but if your case doesn't allow it, that may be the
justification for the single "M" speed fan with more
aggressive RPM throttling.

Note also that to get fans to spin-up yet still be at lowest
voltage, it helps to use a control method that limits
voltage rather than current. For example, a simple 15 cent
inline resistor does quite well for typical undervoltage
needs, but to get a fan working reliably at lowest voltage,
use series-diodes or perhaps one of the common integrated
regulator chips such as a LM317. Using something like an
LM317, you can also put a thermal sensor into the circuit or
control it with a POT.

While there are other fancier PWM based front-panel fan
controllers, many produce a whining sound from their
inductors, and those I've tried do not allow fan spin-up at
as low a voltage, therefore higher final rotational speed.

Some radiators place the fan a bit too close, producing
additional turbulent noise. I'm not familiar with the one
you mentioned but if that becomes an issue you might
consider finding or making a shim to place the fan an
additional cm away from the radiator. This will reduce the
flow rate through the radiator, but even so, the slightly
higher RPM needed to produce same flow rate can result in
lower noise than having the fan too close- which again I"m
not certain about on that particular radiator.
 
F

Frank

sorry for top posting but your text is long, but very useful.
I'll need a 120mm fan, space is plenty for 2 fans and my definition of quiet
is like having all your pc fans off, boot into bios and all you can barely
hear are the HD and the PSU. If temps are below 50-55C without fans, I'll be
glad, but if not, i would have a 120mm fan turn very slowly just to keep it
below that. But when I need to, I want a fan that will push enough cfm to
pass accross my rad which is a good 1.5in think. I was planing on using a
simple 3 postition switch with resistors to control the 1-2 fans. I could
have Off - Mid speed (7V) - high speed(12V).
I also used an aluminium reservoir, (
http://www.noiseisolator.com/wt-tb.htm ) to help in cooling. I'll pass the
water from pump-cpu-chipset-vga-reservoir-rad-pump. That way, the biggest
heat will be absorb by the reservoir and hopefully, I'll manage to run my pc
at stock speeds with no fans.
I guess im better off to start off with no fans at all, see how it goes and
try to use a temporary fan just to see how cool i can get it and see if a
really need these high cfm. I might be satisfied with a panaflo M but like
you said, some say its still loud even at low rpm. Ill see if can have a
shop around hear have me listen to the noise it make just to see. When
gaming, noise would not really be a problem, but when idle or like watching
a movie, I need dead silence.
(sigh) Not easy to have both silence and performance.

anyhow thanks for the great info kony.
 
F

Floyd L. Davidson

Frank said:
sorry for top posting but your text is long, but very useful.
I'll need a 120mm fan, space is plenty for 2 fans and my definition of quiet
is like having all your pc fans off, boot into bios and all you can barely
hear are the HD and the PSU. If temps are below 50-55C without fans, I'll be
glad, but if not, i would have a 120mm fan turn very slowly just to keep it
below that. But when I need to, I want a fan that will push enough cfm to
pass accross my rad which is a good 1.5in think. I was planing on using a
simple 3 postition switch with resistors to control the 1-2 fans. I could
have Off - Mid speed (7V) - high speed(12V).
I also used an aluminium reservoir, (
http://www.noiseisolator.com/wt-tb.htm ) to help in cooling. I'll pass the
water from pump-cpu-chipset-vga-reservoir-rad-pump. That way, the biggest
heat will be absorb by the reservoir and hopefully, I'll manage to run my pc
at stock speeds with no fans.

You can literally calculate the amount of heat that can be
stored in any given sized reservoir of water, and from that you
can calculate just exactly how long it will take to raise the
temperature of your reservoir to any given point at which you
estimate that the cpu will not get sufficient cooling. (And,
once you get it installed you can measure that very easily.)

If there is no air movement across the radiator, the reservoir
is not going to shed any of the heat (or, at least very little
of it). Hence it is not a matter of if it will rise to a
temperature where your cpu is not getting sufficient cooling,
but just a question of how long. (Note that it is just a bigger
heat sink than is a regular air cooled heat sink. The air
cooled device is so small that with no fan it only takes seconds
to overheat the cpu. With a water reservoir, it takes minutes
or even hours if it is large enough... but it still overheats.)

Obviously if you have a relatively small reservoir (say 1
quart), it won't take long to heat it up, and might take nearly
forever to cool it off! On the other hand, with a large
reservoir (say 5 gallons) it will take quite a while to heat
up... but it literally will /never/ cool off (in the same week
anyway!).
I guess im better off to start off with no fans at all, see how it goes and

Because of the above, it would seem there is no point in trying
to start off with no fans at all, unless you have some other
arrangement to remove heat from the reservoir. It sounds as if
you are talking about a relatively small reservoir and a system
entirely enclosed in the computer case, which suggests that it
will perhaps take many minutes to heat up, and many hours to
cool off again. Which is probably not an acceptable recycle
time. And if you do have an external reservoir that is larger,
it extends both times... and is still not an acceptable recycle
time! (Imagine a 4 hour game session, and then having to wait 2
days while your water tank cools off!)
try to use a temporary fan just to see how cool i can get it and see if a
really need these high cfm. I might be satisfied with a panaflo M but like
you said, some say its still loud even at low rpm. Ill see if can have a
shop around hear have me listen to the noise it make just to see. When
gaming, noise would not really be a problem, but when idle or like watching
a movie, I need dead silence.
(sigh) Not easy to have both silence and performance.

The problem is that you need a way to *know* what is going on!
That means temperature probes in cooling system. The probe in
the cpu is fine, but it doesn't tell you what the status of the
reservoir is, and hence won't give you a clue about what the fan
needs to be doing.

I suppose you could just put a little battery operated digital
indoor/outdoor thermometer probe in the water tank, and use that
to decide when to turn the fan off and on manually. But beyond
that, the effort that it takes to automatically monitor
temperatures makes it well past the point where it is easy
enough to just add automatic fan control, based on the
temperatures.

I previously posted a URL to the Crystalfontz CF633 unit which
will do all of what you need. The temperature probes are a
couple bucks each, and it will handle 32 of them. It has
controllers for 4 fans, and they can also be used for things
like turning on and off a relay to switch something on and off,
or the "fan speed monitor" can be used to monitor a liquid flow
meter instead.

Basically these devices allow you to have a fully metered
cooling system. It is possible to measure coolant temperature
in the reservoir, after the cpu waterblock, and after the
radiator, and air temperatures in the case and on each side of
the radiator, plus outside and room temperature too if you want!

It has a watchdog function, hence if something fails, you can
either have it shutdown your computer (wise if it is left on and
unattended) or have it notify you by other means (console bell,
whatever).

But the main thing it will do is keep the fan at the lowest
noise level suitable to the load on the cooling system! Which
is to say, it will be as quiet as it can be for whatever you are
doing with the computer at the time. If your reservoir and/or
the radiator are large enough, it is probable that the fan would
never have to run fast enough to create excessive noise; but
what the fan would do is continue running after your game
session has ended, in order to bring the reservoir temperature
back down to "normal", thus giving you quick "cycle times"
without ever needing maximum fan speed.

And, if you get any fun at all out of messing with a water
cooling system, that would make it several times *more fun*!!!
(And if you don't, the best advice I can give you is to stay
*way* away from a water cooling system! I've dealt with them on
commercial equipment for years, and it is always a high
maintenance item.)
 
K

kony

sorry for top posting but your text is long, but very useful.
I'll need a 120mm fan, space is plenty for 2 fans and my definition of quiet
is like having all your pc fans off, boot into bios and all you can barely
hear are the HD and the PSU. If temps are below 50-55C without fans, I'll be
glad, but if not, i would have a 120mm fan turn very slowly just to keep it
below that. But when I need to, I want a fan that will push enough cfm to
pass accross my rad which is a good 1.5in think. I was planing on using a
simple 3 postition switch with resistors to control the 1-2 fans. I could
have Off - Mid speed (7V) - high speed(12V).


That is what I"d do differently... perhaps shooting for Off/
5-6V / 9-10V. With two relatively unimpeded 120mm fans you
should never need run them at 12V, including gaming.

I also used an aluminium reservoir, (
http://www.noiseisolator.com/wt-tb.htm ) to help in cooling. I'll pass the
water from pump-cpu-chipset-vga-reservoir-rad-pump. That way, the biggest
heat will be absorb by the reservoir and hopefully, I'll manage to run my pc
at stock speeds with no fans.

That will have the potential to damage the system long term.
The parts with water blocks are NOT the only parts that need
airflow. You are going too far in two opposite extremes.
You should not be trying to turn the fans off, then
alternating with full speed fans. Instead, shoot for
ultra-low RPM fans at idle (turning only one supplimentary
fan off if desired) and still-RPM-reduced fans at full load.
Your radiatior is still going to be the largest heat
shedder, regardless of the reservoir. The reservoir simply
doesn't have the surface arear to water ratio necessary to
be very effective for that purpose.

Putting it another way. Suppose that at stock speeds &
idle your PC only produces 100W of heat. 100W of heat left
stagnant will damage parts. Perhaps you don't actually mean
"no fans"? At an absolute minimum you should have the power
supply fan and one chassis fan always spinning.

I guess im better off to start off with no fans at all,

That is not necessarily a good idea. Start out with a
properly fan cooled system then only reduce fan speed when
you can confirm it will happen with no thermal thersholds
exceeded on parts you can't temp-monitor as well as those
you can. Remember that CPU and other chips that take temps,
are not the thermal problems. Thermal problems occur in
small surface mount parts and capacitors. You will have to
manually check those, as they are cooled by copper on the
circuit boards, copper that is cooled by fan-forced airflow.

see how it goes and
try to use a temporary fan just to see how cool i can get it and see if a
really need these high cfm.

It might overheat at one extreme and be unncessarily loud at
the other. Systems that don't even have water cooling don't
necessarily face either of these extremes.

I might be satisfied with a panaflo M but like
you said, some say its still loud even at low rpm. Ill see if can have a
shop around hear have me listen to the noise it make just to see. When
gaming, noise would not really be a problem, but when idle or like watching
a movie, I need dead silence.
(sigh) Not easy to have both silence and performance.

It will do you no good to listen at full speed, the point
was to have the greater flexibility in RPM adjustment, but
still not running it at full speed. Take a ready-made (or
homemade) fan controller along with you to test on the
target fan if possible. Even so, this was within the
context of having only one fan. WIth two, you should be
fine with the "L" speed, and if they aren't sufficient the
answer is getting air passages to a lower impedance.

Ultimately, you may be better off with a variable speed fan
controller than trying for a 3 speed via resistors. Either
that, or implement the lowest of the 3 speeds with a
regulator or diodes for the voltage drop instead of
resistor(s).
 
K

kony

You can literally calculate the amount of heat that can be
stored in any given sized reservoir of water, and from that you
can calculate just exactly how long it will take to raise the
temperature of your reservoir to any given point at which you
estimate that the cpu will not get sufficient cooling. (And,
once you get it installed you can measure that very easily.)

Not true because even if one tried to prevent it, heat would
be shed so long as ambient is less than water temp.
If there is no air movement across the radiator, the reservoir
is not going to shed any of the heat ...

One has nothing to do with the other.

(or, at least very little
of it). Hence it is not a matter of if it will rise to a
temperature where your cpu is not getting sufficient cooling,
but just a question of how long. (Note that it is just a bigger
heat sink than is a regular air cooled heat sink. The air
cooled device is so small that with no fan it only takes seconds
to overheat the cpu.

Hardly, unless "seconds" means the better part of a minute
or the system was so poorly set up that it was barely under
the stable-temp margin while fan cooled.
With a water reservoir, it takes minutes
or even hours if it is large enough... but it still overheats.)

No, the reservior has little impact on it unless it's HUGE,
and even then, only to the extent that a huge reserviour has
high water-surface contact. It's not practical to plan for
a huge reservoir, if someone has THAT much free space they'd
be better off just adding a 2nd radiator.

Because of the above, it would seem there is no point in trying
to start off with no fans at all, unless you have some other
arrangement to remove heat from the reservoir. It sounds as if
you are talking about a relatively small reservoir and a system
entirely enclosed in the computer case, which suggests that it
will perhaps take many minutes to heat up, and many hours to
cool off again. Which is probably not an acceptable recycle
time.

A system should NEVER be planned based on "recycle time".


The problem is that you need a way to *know* what is going on!


Actually, that's 100% completely wrong.
A properly engineered system has no need to inform the user
of anything, no need for the user to adjust anything, etc.
The only thing the user should ever need to know is that if
the system shuts down, it did so before it overheated enough
to cause damage.

That means temperature probes in cooling system.

Ridiculous waste of time.

The probe in
the cpu is fine, but it doesn't tell you what the status of the
reservoir is, and hence won't give you a clue about what the fan
needs to be doing.

No, completely wrong. The fan control should be based on
the hottest part if it's based on anything. Multiple parts
with a relay control if it were to be more elaborate, but
NEVER based on water temp. Suppose pump breaks, or water
leaks, the water temp will not be as high because the
components being cooled are retaining more heat.


Basically these devices allow you to have a fully metered
cooling system. It is possible to measure coolant temperature
in the reservoir, after the cpu waterblock, and after the
radiator, and air temperatures in the case and on each side of
the radiator, plus outside and room temperature too if you want!

Which is all trivia. In a water cooled system, the only
temps that should be weighed in determining fan control are
those of the water-cooled components. Doing anything
differently than this will only increase the margin of
error.


However, if the chassis exahust fan is cooling the radiator,
and that fan is also being controlled, then all passively
cooled components much also be weighed in the determination
of proper fan speed control, but still, NEVER the water
temp. Water is absolutely the very last thing anyone should
care about until it starts boiling- and if your water is
boiling you have far larger problems than which fans are
spinning.
 
F

Floyd L. Davidson

kony said:
Not true because even if one tried to prevent it, heat would
be shed so long as ambient is less than water temp.

The question is, however, how fast? The answer: not very.
One has nothing to do with the other.

I am considering "the reservoir" to be the entire coolant
container, including the radiator, pump, and the hoses too.

Essentially the only way that heat will be dissipated is by
moving air across the "radiator"... which might be a separate
heat exchanger or might be incorporated into the physical
construction of the reservoir. (The URL the OP posted is in
fact a combination reservoir/radiator, all in one unit, though
there may indeed be another heat exchanger too.)

The point is that the water temperature of the reservoir,
lacking some system to remove heat, is *not* going to dissipate
the heat it gets from the CPU. It is going to store it.
Hardly, unless "seconds" means the better part of a minute
or the system was so poorly set up that it was barely under
the stable-temp margin while fan cooled.

Some CPU's will overheat in less than a hand full of seconds.
Others may take a minute or two. I don't recall if the CPU was
specified??
No, the reservior has little impact on it unless it's HUGE,

That simply isn't true. As I noted, you can calculate exactly
how much heat any given sized reservoir can absorb for a
selected temperature rise.

The *only* way that a water cooling system will work is if the
heat removed from the reservoir is equal to the heat removed
from the CPU. The CPU of course has to have heat exchanged at a
fairly fast rate, while the reservoir size determines how fast
heat has to be removed.
and even then, only to the extent that a huge reserviour has
high water-surface contact. It's not practical to plan for
a huge reservoir, if someone has THAT much free space they'd
be better off just adding a 2nd radiator.

Depends on what the point of water cooling is. If it is lower
temperatures, you are correct (and the reservoir need not have
any capacity larger than a very small surge tank). But if the
design target is lower noise, then reservoir capacity is
significant.
A system should NEVER be planned based on "recycle time".

Well, that just depends on what the design target is! With
noise reduction, it *can* be based on recycle time.
Actually, that's 100% completely wrong.
A properly engineered system has no need to inform the user
of anything, no need for the user to adjust anything, etc.
The only thing the user should ever need to know is that if
the system shuts down, it did so before it overheated enough
to cause damage.

The "user" as such doesn't need to know anything. But the
system that controls it *does*. The OP is talking about a
manual system, in which case *he* is the controller that needs
to know.

My whole point was to convince him that since he would need to
know a lot more, he might as well automate it and hand it all to
a controller.
Ridiculous waste of time.

Only *if* you don't mind the noise of fans operating at maximum
(required) capacity. That is typical of systems designed for
overclocking, because the entire idea is to get minimum CPU
temperature. But, that is *not* what the OP wants. His purpose
minimum noise.

To have anything other than gross (on/off) control of the fan
requires temperature probes of the coolant.
No, completely wrong. The fan control should be based on
the hottest part if it's based on anything.

You are designing a minimum CPU temperature system with a fail
safe. That nice and is interesting, but is *not* what the OP
wants.
Multiple parts
with a relay control if it were to be more elaborate, but
NEVER based on water temp. Suppose pump breaks, or water
leaks, the water temp will not be as high because the
components being cooled are retaining more heat.

That has *nothing* to do with fan control.

And fan control has *nothing* to do with shutting the system
down due to catastrophic failure. Note that I discussed some of
the functionality require for that too, farther down in my
article (and which has been snipped).

I didn't get far into that, but if the OP wants to discuss it
farther, the various requirements for failure protection are
interesting too. But the requirements depend on information the
OP has not provided yet.
Which is all trivia. In a water cooled system, the only
temps that should be weighed in determining fan control are
those of the water-cooled components. Doing anything
differently than this will only increase the margin of
error.

Please realize that this is *not* a typical overclocker's system
design. He wants to reduce *noise*. Rethink what is allowed to
vary (the CPU temperature), and what is required to have a low
"margin of error" (fan noise!).
However, if the chassis exahust fan is cooling the radiator,

He wanted to have a minimum number of fans, all running as slow
as possible.
and that fan is also being controlled, then all passively
cooled components much also be weighed in the determination
of proper fan speed control, but still, NEVER the water
temp. Water is absolutely the very last thing anyone should
care about until it starts boiling- and if your water is
boiling you have far larger problems than which fans are
spinning.

That is just not true, given the design targets. (Not to
mention an absurd scenario, given the typical 70C shutdown
temperature, and the 50-55C target mentioned by the OP.)
 
K

kony

The question is, however, how fast? The answer: not very.


Yes but you kept focusing on the reservoir which is
pointless. The reservoir on any sane PC cooling system is
not big enough to matter relative to the radiator.

I am considering "the reservoir" to be the entire coolant
container, including the radiator, pump, and the hoses too.

Err, ok. Seems a bit confusing why you'd do that though,
and futher, since the hoses aren't usually metal, they're
still far less of a heat exchanger than the radiator. Point
being, practically everything but the radiator can be
ignored.

Essentially the only way that heat will be dissipated is by
moving air across the "radiator"... which might be a separate
heat exchanger or might be incorporated into the physical
construction of the reservoir. (The URL the OP posted is in
fact a combination reservoir/radiator, all in one unit, though
there may indeed be another heat exchanger too.)

It's not a radiator. It's merely a fancy looking gimmic of
a reservior.


The point is that the water temperature of the reservoir,
lacking some system to remove heat, is *not* going to dissipate
the heat it gets from the CPU. It is going to store it.

It's pointless to think about it one way or the other, it
can be completely ignored.


That simply isn't true. As I noted, you can calculate exactly
how much heat any given sized reservoir can absorb for a
selected temperature rise.


Yes you can calculate it, and once you've done so-
congratulations, you've completely wasted your time.

The *only* way that a water cooling system will work is if the
heat removed from the reservoir is equal to the heat removed
from the CPU.

No. First of all, the reservoir is the reservior, NOT
anything but the storage tank. Second, you're just plain
wrong. The heat is removed primarily in the radiator and
the radiator needs be designed (Selected) towards that goal.
It's just a waste of time to do all this silly theory when
you dont' gain anything by it.


The CPU of course has to have heat exchanged at a
fairly fast rate, while the reservoir size determines how fast
heat has to be removed.

No.
This is all nonsense.
The CPU doesn't need any particularly "fast" nor "slow",
merely at nearly the same rate as it produces the heat,
minus a little as it's impossible to have perfect heat
conduction from the center of the core to the outside though
only a singular path without heading surrounding areas.

The reservour size does not determine how fast heat has to
be removed. Heat has to be removed at a similar rate
regardless of how large it is as a matter of being
reasonable, because it is not large reservoir, not metal
pipe, and even in the actual reservoir (not the nonsense
idea you made up about what a reservoir is) the goal is
storage, it is optimized clearly with that in mind, NOT
maximizing heat transfer. Even so, if it does help a little
so much the better but that is NOT the primary cooling
method and not a primary determining factor.

Depends on what the point of water cooling is. If it is lower
temperatures, you are correct (and the reservoir need not have
any capacity larger than a very small surge tank). But if the
design target is lower noise, then reservoir capacity is
significant.

No.
If the design target is lower noise, the same critera still
applies- that the reservoir is not worth considering,
ESPECIALLY in increasing it's size, compared to a larger
radiator.


Well, that just depends on what the design target is! With
noise reduction, it *can* be based on recycle time.

QUITE WRONG.
It is a defective system and the seller should face
class-action lawsuits. Water cooling for computer systems
is not a one-shot system, it has to maintain temp
indefinitely at full load or it's simply inadequate.

The "user" as such doesn't need to know anything. But the
system that controls it *does*. The OP is talking about a
manual system, in which case *he* is the controller that needs
to know.

Actually the system doesn't need to know anything either.
You imply some sort of logic- it is completely 100%
unnecessary beyond that already present. Addition of water
cooling does not change the same basic thermal shutdown
scenario present from air-cooling, and no further logic is
necessary.


My whole point was to convince him that since he would need to
know a lot more, he might as well automate it and hand it all to
a controller.

.... and you're wrong.
A controller is completely unnecessary additional cost,
time, and additional failure points. Water cooling does not
add any such need, the same system monitoring works for it
as well as air-cooling so long as silly mistakes aren't made
such as trying to do without fans by ignoring parts that
aren't monitored at all. If you argue to monitor
*everything* then I ask what you anticipate the time and
construction plus testing costs to be- since that's a large
enough amount of time and $ that unless it's a mission
critical system, it was once again wasteful.
Only *if* you don't mind the noise of fans operating at maximum
(required) capacity. That is typical of systems designed for
overclocking, because the entire idea is to get minimum CPU
temperature. But, that is *not* what the OP wants. His purpose
minimum noise.

You have it backwards. The change it CPU temp is larger
than the change in water temp. Monitoring water temp
necessarily causes less accurate feedback for control
purposes. Further, it doesn't matter what the water temp is
and it will vary per ambient temp- we don't care about water
temp, only what the water is cooling.

To have anything other than gross (on/off) control of the fan
requires temperature probes of the coolant.

Again, wrong. You really have no idea how to set up water
cooling properly in a PC.

You are designing a minimum CPU temperature system with a fail
safe. That nice and is interesting, but is *not* what the OP
wants.

Nope, I'm detailing how to get it to work properly. Most
thermal sensors don't even have a fine enough granularity to
measure changes in water temp, unless you're considering
something relatively expensive, which once again is a waste
as that same granularity improvement would still be of
further benefit measuring the larger changes in the actual
parts being cooled, which once again- is the whole point of
the water-cooling subsystem.

That has *nothing* to do with fan control.

yes it does. If the pump breaks- the water temp isn't
rising much at all relative to the water-cooled component.
Fans may not kick on but component overheats. Granted that
doesn't cool the water, but what it does do in a good
fault-tolerant system, is help remove as much heat as
possible including some cooling of the water block. That's
only part of the picture though- in past water-cooling
threads I've recommended same thing I still do- that the
northbridge and power regulator area still needs a fan.

And fan control has *nothing* to do with shutting the system
down due to catastrophic failure. Note that I discussed some of
the functionality require for that too, farther down in my
article (and which has been snipped).

What's your point?
Neither should water temp.

I didn't get far into that, but if the OP wants to discuss it
farther, the various requirements for failure protection are
interesting too. But the requirements depend on information the
OP has not provided yet.

Actually, it's very easy but you've gone so far along the
wrong tangent that you'd create an extremely complex,
expensive, failure-prone system that isn't even very
accurate.

It's quite simple- plenty of young kids manage to do it fine
except for the fan control. Fan (as well as any control) is
always best when given high resolution feedback. You can't
get that from water temp measurements and it won't be
applicable to the primary need- the cooled PC component
temps.

Please realize that this is *not* a typical overclocker's system
design. He wants to reduce *noise*. Rethink what is allowed to
vary (the CPU temperature), and what is required to have a low
"margin of error" (fan noise!).

Please realize that your proposed solution is inferior for
ALL implementations. Inferior for overclocked systems and
inferior for non-overclocked systems.

Fan noise is most reduced when one is monitoring the part
that needs cooled. It is just ridiculous to vary a fan
speed based on a temp of a component of the cooling system
(the water) that has no critical temp that matters. You are
suggesting a system with large margin of error that cannot
safely keep fans as quiet.


He wanted to have a minimum number of fans, all running as slow
as possible.

Actually, I dont' recall any mention of minimum number of
fans but even if true, that doesn't change my statement. In
fact, it just reinforces it as having a minimal number of
fans would mean doubling-up on functionality, having the
exhaust fan also producing the radiator airflow.

That is just not true, given the design targets. (Not to
mention an absurd scenario, given the typical 70C shutdown
temperature, and the 50-55C target mentioned by the OP.)

The only way to meet the design target is to have an
accurate reading on the parts that are being cooled. Not
only is it the only relevant temp, but the one with highest
resolution and necessarily the ones that must be used to
determine sufficient cooling, and therefore sufficient
fan/flow rate. Measuring water temp as a basis for control
cannot be optimal and margin of error higher.

Even so, the really crazy part is the elaborate, time
consuming and expensive method suggested to achieve this
inferior pseudo-solution. You've gotten so caught up in a
tangent that you need to step back and look a the details
again. Minimalizing noise without overheating simply
requires monitoring the actual parts, as they are in fact
the determination of whether there is sufficient cooling,
the whole POINT of sufficient cooling.
 
F

Floyd L. Davidson

kony said:
Again, wrong. You really have no idea how to set up water
cooling properly in a PC.

I have nearly 4 decades of experience with a variety of liquid
cooled electronics, ranging from small passive systems with
convection coolant flow to some pretty large systems with 100
gallon surge tanks and 50 KW heat exchangers.

You don't seem to understand how half of the system works,
or why.

The OP can take it for what he wishes, and I'll be happy to go
into more detail, but I see no point in discussing this with
you.
 
K

kony

I have nearly 4 decades of experience with a variety of liquid
cooled electronics, ranging from small passive systems with
convection coolant flow to some pretty large systems with 100
gallon surge tanks and 50 KW heat exchangers.

Then you ought to know by now that you can't just assume
some unrelated piece of equipment utilizing a different
cooling system, would be applied in exact same way. 100
gallon surge tanks, sure that's really applicable (not).
The devil is in the details.


You don't seem to understand how half of the system works,
or why.

Well I know you don't, so I guess that makes us even, no
point in continuing our back-and-forth over this issue.

The OP can take it for what he wishes, and I'll be happy to go
into more detail, but I see no point in discussing this with
you.

You do of course realize that unlike whatever you were
dealing with, this is a very small system with very large
current (& heat) changes? Using water temp is simply
inferior, and quite possibly worse than no control at all.
 
F

Floyd L. Davidson

kony said:
Then you ought to know by now that you can't just assume
some unrelated piece of equipment utilizing a different
cooling system, would be applied in exact same way. 100
gallon surge tanks, sure that's really applicable (not).
The devil is in the details.

I damned well *do* know how these things work, and you clearly
don't have a clue.
You do of course realize that unlike whatever you were
dealing with, this is a very small system with very large
current (& heat) changes? Using water temp is simply
inferior, and quite possibly worse than no control at all.

Did you see the reference above to "small passive systems with
convection coolant flow".

The point is that you don't understand how it works, and that
is why you can't see the point in what I've discussed.

Go back to your overclocking system, and be very hopeful the
hose doesn't break...
 
K

kony

The point is that you don't understand how it works, and that
is why you can't see the point in what I've discussed.

Ah but I do!
Your ramblings about volumes of water and temp rises are not
particularly high-tech nor news per se, but you still fail
to grasp the basic fact that in a system where the majority
of the heat removal is through the radiator, and where the
temp change in the CPU and other parts is a significantly
larger range than in the water, measuring the water for
system control is necessarily less precise. Further you
completely ignore the fact that multiple methods of failure
will result in the cooled-component overheating while the
water temp (sensor measurement of this parameter) DROPS.


Go back to your overclocking system, and be very hopeful the
hose doesn't break...


You still don't get it. I described optimal low noise for
any system, not some extreme overclocking.
 
R

ric

[...snip]

Floyd L. Davidson has quickly joined w_tom as two of the biggest
blowhards on ACH or the other computer groups. Arguing with either
is useless.
 
F

Frank

This is very interesting information. Kinda like it that two point of views
sort of debate over this as
even though both of you are sometimes on or off target, you both provide me
with very very useful
info and un-thought of difficulties I might encounter other than just
finding "the" perfect fan for my
needs. Just don't slash at each other as you both have points I agree with
and are what I was also thinking of.

My 99.99% goal if I could say that way is to have a 24/7 silent pc. The only
things I can think of in
the pc that will make a sound are my 2 HD and the 2 auto-controlled fans in
my PSU which run at
900RPM. No other fans are to be added except the obvious radiator fan. That
alone is what I call
a silent pc. I'm not going to use a fan controller as I only have 2 bays
left and they are used as front
exhaust for the rad. I could mange to go down to one bay only but would have
too much cutting and
adjusting to do again plus it might possibly hurt the air flow. I stick with
a manually controlled fan or
a switch type.

What would you think of this fan? I Might just be satisfied with it at low
speed all the time as I
doubt 17 db is very noticeable.
http://www.silverstonetek.com/products-fmc3xw.htm
Whatever static pressure is, would it be good at performing at low speed?

As for my reservoir, it is indeed and rad/reservoir combo, however, I don't
expect cooling miracles
from it. However, logically (I'm no expert) the fact that I placed the
reservoir behind the PSU fan
outside the case will make the PSU fan blow on the reservoir. The air coming
out the PSU might be
30 some degrees which would be cooler than the water itself and should allow
the reservoir to have
some kind of air flow and and being the first thing after the "waterblocks"
should dissipate heat more.
Hopefully it won't store heat.

(Again I'm no expert here) but I've learned that a hot liquid will drop in
degrees faster when
the difference between it and surrounding is greater. Hard to explain with
my limited experience
but basically, I think I might gain a degree here and there which could make
a difference in running the
system with fans off or at low speed.

As for the monitoring, I'll simply be using my 9800xt and cpu temp sensors
on the card/MB.
Bios should auto shut down at 75C, which is the lowest I can set it to
unfortunately.
(might be too late anyway and I've never tested that function).

Hard to get flexibility to have a pc running cool when gaming cause to be
honest, I will indeed be pushing
my system a bit as I have a factory unlocked 2600xp barton but will do so
within reasonable limits.(11x200fsb)

Anyhow a big thanks to both Kony and Floyd for all the great info. Now just
need to copy
your texts to read them over and over as again you both have really
interesting points I hadn't
though of and need to think of now.

Thanks guys. If you got more to add about something about my config which
would help, feel free to do so.
I'm not refusing any help/info ;o)

If you're curios, here's what I'm waiting to install. All is ready to
install. Just need the time and this missing "fan"

Danger Den TDX for cpu, Maze4 for chipset and maze4 gpu for vga, all on ½
tubing
120mm HW labs extreme v2 radiator
Aluminum reservoir/radiator
eheim 1250 pump
amd 2600 barton on AN7 MB
 
K

kony

This is very interesting information. Kinda like it that two point of views
sort of debate over this as
even though both of you are sometimes on or off target, you both provide me
with very very useful
info and un-thought of difficulties I might encounter other than just
finding "the" perfect fan for my
needs. Just don't slash at each other as you both have points I agree with
and are what I was also thinking of.

My 99.99% goal if I could say that way is to have a 24/7 silent pc. The only
things I can think of in
the pc that will make a sound are my 2 HD and the 2 auto-controlled fans in
my PSU which run at
900RPM. No other fans are to be added except the obvious radiator fan. That
alone is what I call
a silent pc. I'm not going to use a fan controller as I only have 2 bays
left and they are used as front
exhaust for the rad. I could mange to go down to one bay only but would have
too much cutting and
adjusting to do again plus it might possibly hurt the air flow. I stick with
a manually controlled fan or
a switch type.

You still seem to be overlooking the obvious, that you can't
simply "choose" to use lower RPM fans, you also have to move
the heat out of the system. Merely thinking "it's idle
therefore I need almost no airflow" is typically incorrect.
Remember that water cooling with a radiator, tank, lines
inside the system, does nothing to remove any heat from the
chassis. Chassis heat accumulation is inevitable if you
don't move enough air through it. However, again I do not
have specifics on your radiator, if it is mounted external
to the chassis that will help some.

What would you think of this fan? I Might just be satisfied with it at low
speed all the time as I
doubt 17 db is very noticeable.
http://www.silverstonetek.com/products-fmc3xw.htm
Whatever static pressure is, would it be good at performing at low speed?

No, it is a junk fan in a novel color. Choose high quality
fans and go from there, as most fans can be throttled to the
appropriate RPM. The particular linked fan is also only
25mm thick, sub-optimal if you can fit a 38mm wide fan.

As for my reservoir, it is indeed and rad/reservoir combo, however, I don't
expect cooling miracles

It isn't a radiator. It might be marketed as such but that
doesn't begain to make it a significant factor in cooling.

The distinction of a radiator is a very large metal surface
area to coolant ratio. The storage tank is just the
opposite. What little benefit it will have is not enough to
alter any other cooling plans by much.

Even if it did have a more significant impact than it will,
mounting it inside a case does nothing to remove heat from
the case. You have not described in detail exactly how you
will implement this, as any cooling system of this nature
has some flexibility due to changing hoses or choosing
different tank, radiator, pump, etc as desired in addtion to
mounting location.

from it. However, logically (I'm no expert) the fact that I placed the
reservoir behind the PSU fan
outside the case will make the PSU fan blow on the reservoir. The air coming
out the PSU might be
30 some degrees

Huh? You're making up numbers. a 900 RPM PSU exhaust fan
will have higher than 30 degree temp.

which would be cooler than the water itself

No evidence of that yet. In fact, the more you reduce the
airflow the less likely that's true.

and should allow
the reservoir to have
some kind of air flow and and being the first thing after the "waterblocks"
should dissipate heat more.

What's your point?
Do not plan your cooling around the reservoir placement. In
fact, too much impedance from PSU exhaust will simply cause
even more chassis heating.

Hopefully it won't store heat.

At this point I respectfully suggest that you have no idea
what you're talking about, and have been listening to the
wrong sources of info. It WILL heat up. It will stay warm,
that is heat storage in a loose way of looking at it. That
is impossible to avoid and is not a problem, issue, etc,
etc. In fact, based upon your plan to try to cool it, it is
manditory that it "store heat" in order to get any benefit
out of that airflow, as stored heat is necessary for the
thermal rise above exhaust temp (which is still a conjecture
not in evidence) which would allow airflow to have even a
trivial benefit in cooling it.

(Again I'm no expert here) but I've learned that a hot liquid will drop in
degrees faster when
the difference between it and surrounding is greater. Hard to explain with
my limited experience
but basically, I think I might gain a degree here and there which could make
a difference in running the
system with fans off or at low speed.

I'm just going to be blunt. You don't yet have enough
experience to run a system without fans turned on and will
end up damaging components- if not immediate they'll just
have a shorter lifespan. Your goal at this point should
only be to reduce fan noise some and then proceed from there
seeing if further reduction is possible after measuring
component temperatures. That is not a concession, it still
allows eventually throttling down even turning off one or
more fans if that seems possible.

I'll put it another way. You seem to keep assuming there is
some drastic heat difference between idle and full load (for
example gaming). While the difference can be a large
percentage, it is not as significant as you anticipate.
Primarily, the very parts you'll be water cooling are the
ones that have a heat reduction, so other parts not
water-cooled continue to have the need for fan-forced
airflow. To put it in perspective, suppose your system
produces 130W idle and 250W under full load. You want to go
from almost no airflow at 130W to almost full airflow
potential at 250W. That's not a realistic presumption to
make about airflow need. Realistically the need will be
closer to 130/250 of the full load flow rate IF the
guesstimations for idle and full load wattage were in the
ballpark.
 
F

Floyd L. Davidson

Hello Frank,

If you would like to discuss your system in depth, I'd be happy
to do so in email. It is clear that can't be done on the
newsgroup because of the total confusion this fellow "kony" is
injecting. He is arguing one thing to you, and another thing to
me, and there is no way that you are going to get a logical step
by step understanding of how it works from trying to follow
that!

As you are currently describing it, your design is not going to
work. You will end up with the fans turned on virtually all the
time, and probably on occasion will be getting thermal shutdowns
(though if you don't, you'll be running at far too high a
temperature for proper operation and will eventually suffer
equipment failures as a result). But the "not work" refers to
the fact that you'll have either fan noise greater than is
needed or more heat than is acceptable, and very little time in
between.

There is a *lot* more detail to it than what I've posted in the
couple of long articles that I did write. But you have to
understand the first part before you try to learn about the next
part...

If you'd like, we can go through it one step at a time and explore
the significance of some of these "un-thought of difficulties".

Have a good day,
Floyd


Frank said:
This is very interesting information. Kinda like it that two point of views
sort of debate over this as
even though both of you are sometimes on or off target, you both provide me
with very very useful
info and un-thought of difficulties I might encounter other than just
finding "the" perfect fan for my
needs. Just don't slash at each other as you both have points I agree with
and are what I was also thinking of.

My 99.99% goal if I could say that way is to have a 24/7 silent pc. The only
....
 

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