CPU problem

[NC]

Hi, I got a new Athlon XP 2500+ Barton and installed it with its
heatsink/fan. When I booted my machine, I didn't see a POST screen and
the light on the monitor just kept flickering on and off. My memory was
266Mhz PC2100 and my motherboard (ASUS A7V8X-X) says it only supports
333Mhz RAM with a 333Mhz FSB CPU, so I bought some 333Mhz PC2700 RAM but
still had the same problem. Now, I've tried with my old memory and my
old CPU (Duron 800Mhz) and still no POST screen . Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Nick Chorley

 

[CBFalconer]

Hi, I got a new Athlon XP 2500+ Barton and installed it with its
heatsink/fan. When I booted my machine, I didn't see a POST screen
and the light on the monitor just kept flickering on and off. My
memory was 266Mhz PC2100 and my motherboard (ASUS A7V8X-X) says it
only supports 333Mhz RAM with a 333Mhz FSB CPU, so I bought some
333Mhz PC2700 RAM but still had the same problem. Now, I've tried
with my old memory and my old CPU (Duron 800Mhz) and still no POST
screen . Can anyone help?

Most people, after changing a component in a system and finding
that it doesn't work, would change that same component back rather
than charging off wildly in all directions changing everything
else.

 

[NC]

Most people, after changing a component in a system and finding
that it doesn't work, would change that same component back rather
than charging off wildly in all directions changing everything
else.

That's really helpful :/.

 

[kony]

Hi, I got a new Athlon XP 2500+ Barton and installed it with its
heatsink/fan. When I booted my machine, I didn't see a POST screen and
the light on the monitor just kept flickering on and off. My memory was
266Mhz PC2100 and my motherboard (ASUS A7V8X-X) says it only supports
333Mhz RAM with a 333Mhz FSB CPU, so I bought some 333Mhz PC2700 RAM but
still had the same problem. Now, I've tried with my old memory and my
old CPU (Duron 800Mhz) and still no POST screen . Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Nick Chorley

When working inside the case perhaps you have disturbed something
else, like video card, or didn't get memory fully inserted in
slots. Recheck all cards, cables, etc.

You might try clearing the CMOS while AC power is disconnected,
and powering on with only the original components that previously
worked. If board has ability to manually set FSB speed down to
100MHz, try doing that as an aid to getting it to post with
either/both CPUs & memory.

With old parts in system you might update the board's bios if
it's not running newest version.... IF the system is stable. If
bios supports the Barton then question whether the higher FSB
rate or higher-current CPU are significant, as that could be
caused by something like a poor power supply. Voltage readings
at motherboard connector could be taken with a multimeter.

 

[SysCold]

Hi, I got a new Athlon XP 2500+ Barton and installed it with its
heatsink/fan. When I booted my machine, I didn't see a POST screen and
the light on the monitor just kept flickering on and off. My memory was
266Mhz PC2100 and my motherboard (ASUS A7V8X-X) says it only supports
333Mhz RAM with a 333Mhz FSB CPU, so I bought some 333Mhz PC2700 RAM but
still had the same problem. Now, I've tried with my old memory and my
old CPU (Duron 800Mhz) and still no POST screen . Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Nick Chorley

It's probably because of wrong FSB speed. Have you tried reseting BIOS?
When you reset it, it should boot in lowest FSB speed 100 MHz. To reset
BIOS on your MB (I'm not 100% sure) pull the BIOS battery out. You
should have jumper (3 pins) very close to battery and it should be set
on pin 1-2. When battery is out put jumper on pin 2-3 for second and get
it back on 1-2. Put back the battery and turn on comp....

I don't know if it helps but that's the only thing that crossed my mind.
If I recall anything new, I'll post it...

By SysCold

 

[NC]

It's probably because of wrong FSB speed. Have you tried reseting BIOS?
When you reset it, it should boot in lowest FSB speed 100 MHz. To reset
BIOS on your MB (I'm not 100% sure) pull the BIOS battery out. You
should have jumper (3 pins) very close to battery and it should be set
on pin 1-2. When battery is out put jumper on pin 2-3 for second and get
it back on 1-2. Put back the battery and turn on comp....

I don't know if it helps but that's the only thing that crossed my mind.
If I recall anything new, I'll post it...

By SysCold

Thanks and thank you to Kony also. I'll try resetting the CMOS, just the
battery is quite hard to get out.

 

[NC]

When working inside the case perhaps you have disturbed something
else, like video card, or didn't get memory fully inserted in
slots. Recheck all cards, cables, etc.

You might try clearing the CMOS while AC power is disconnected,
and powering on with only the original components that previously
worked. If board has ability to manually set FSB speed down to
100MHz, try doing that as an aid to getting it to post with
either/both CPUs & memory.

With old parts in system you might update the board's bios if
it's not running newest version.... IF the system is stable. If
bios supports the Barton then question whether the higher FSB
rate or higher-current CPU are significant, as that could be
caused by something like a poor power supply. Voltage readings
at motherboard connector could be taken with a multimeter.

Resetting the CMOS makes it work with my old CPU and both memory
modules. Now to try with new CPU..

Thanks,

NC

 

[NC]

Resetting the CMOS makes it work with my old CPU and both memory
modules. Now to try with new CPU..

Thanks,

NC

Well it still doesn't work with the new chip. I'm thinking it's just a
dud cos there's no evidence of overheating or cracks in the die.

NC

 

[kony]

Well it still doesn't work with the new chip. I'm thinking it's just a
dud cos there's no evidence of overheating or cracks in the die.

That may be possible but CPUs being "duds" are rare, maybe your
board has some jumpers that need changed? Asus does seem to use
more than the average number of jumpers on their boards.

 

[NC]

That may be possible but CPUs being "duds" are rare, maybe your
board has some jumpers that need changed? Asus does seem to use
more than the average number of jumpers on their boards.

There's only an over_volt jumper for Vcore over-voltage, which is set to
"disabled" by default. The rest of the jumpers are not for the CPU
(things like clearing CMOS, USB, etc).

Thanks,

NC

 

[WebWalker]

Hi, I got a new Athlon XP 2500+ Barton and installed it with its
heatsink/fan. When I booted my machine, I didn't see a POST screen and
the light on the monitor just kept flickering on and off. My memory was
266Mhz PC2100 and my motherboard (ASUS A7V8X-X) says it only supports
333Mhz RAM with a 333Mhz FSB CPU, so I bought some 333Mhz PC2700 RAM but
still had the same problem. Now, I've tried with my old memory and my
old CPU (Duron 800Mhz) and still no POST screen . Can anyone help?

Recently I have build a 2600+ Barton system with the same motherboard.
The board can support DDR400 RAM but it will at run 333mhz in line with
CPU FSB.

I have not problem of assembly the said system, btw did you hear any
beeps while switching it on?
What type of display card you are using ?

 

[NC]

Recently I have build a 2600+ Barton system with the same motherboard.
The board can support DDR400 RAM but it will at run 333mhz in line with
CPU FSB.

I have not problem of assembly the said system, btw did you hear any
beeps while switching it on?
What type of display card you are using ?

I don't remember hearing any beeps when I tried to boot it, I suppose I
could try again though that would mean attaching the heatsink/fan again.
My graphics card is a Geforce 4 MX440-T8X.

Thanks,

NC

 

[~misfit~]

I don't remember hearing any beeps when I tried to boot it, I suppose
I could try again though that would mean attaching the heatsink/fan
again. My graphics card is a Geforce 4 MX440-T8X.

Thanks,

Have you tried clearing the CMOS?

 

[NC]

Have you tried clearing the CMOS?

Yes. While it worked when reinstalling my Duron, there was no such luck
with the Barton.

Thanks,

NC

 

[kony]

Yes. While it worked when reinstalling my Duron, there was no such luck
with the Barton.

Often it is helpful to have a basic description of all major
components in the system, including power supply make/model.

New CPU not only requires more power but running mobo at higher
FSB & Mem does as well. If power supply is marginal it may need
replaced. Asus' CPU compatibility chart on their website shows
your board is compatible with the CPU, but at this point it might
be helpful if you were able to find someone to test CPU for you,
especially if there is a seller warranty period that would soon
expire.

 

[NC]

Often it is helpful to have a basic description of all major
components in the system, including power supply make/model.

New CPU not only requires more power but running mobo at higher
FSB & Mem does as well. If power supply is marginal it may need
replaced. Asus' CPU compatibility chart on their website shows
your board is compatible with the CPU, but at this point it might
be helpful if you were able to find someone to test CPU for you,
especially if there is a seller warranty period that would soon
expire.

PSU is made by A1 and the model is 300X. I tried the CPU again but I
didn't hear any beeps (yes, the speaker was connected!). I don't have
anyone who can test it for me .

Thanks,

NC

 

[kony]

PSU is made by A1 and the model is 300X. I tried the CPU again but I
didn't hear any beeps (yes, the speaker was connected!). I don't have
anyone who can test it for me .

That sounds suspiciously like an overrated generic power supply.
If it is, it certainly could be inadequate capacity for the those
parts (in conjunction with your video card). If you had an old
low-powered video card available you might temporarily swap it
into system in place of the Geforce card but still it might be
exceeding 5V capacity alone.

That motherboard uses 5V for CPU power, most likley your power
supply is lacking on it's 3V+5V combined capacity. Suggest
name-brand 350w or higher replacement rated for minimum of 200W
combined 3V+5V power, with more being even better... to minimize
chance of needing another new PSU next time you rebuild/upgrade a
higher capacity than that would be better.

 

[NC]

That sounds suspiciously like an overrated generic power supply.
If it is, it certainly could be inadequate capacity for the those
parts (in conjunction with your video card). If you had an old
low-powered video card available you might temporarily swap it
into system in place of the Geforce card but still it might be
exceeding 5V capacity alone.

That motherboard uses 5V for CPU power, most likley your power
supply is lacking on it's 3V+5V combined capacity. Suggest
name-brand 350w or higher replacement rated for minimum of 200W
combined 3V+5V power, with more being even better... to minimize
chance of needing another new PSU next time you rebuild/upgrade a
higher capacity than that would be better.

Oh dear .

Thanks,

NC

 

[kony]

Oh dear .

Thanks,

I should've writtten, "since i've not heard of that brand it
would seem unlikely to be a decent make". I cannot be certain
that it's the problem and suggest taking voltage readings with a
multimeter. If you had a better spare PSU it would be a useful
test to swap them. Motherboard is known to run that CPU, video
card is known to work, all that's left (since you could strip
system down to just essentials) are memory, PSU, and CPU. Odds
are low the CPU is bad, and if new memory tests OK with old CPU
in system, that seems unlikely too. PSU is most likely suspect
even without knowing it's origin.

 

[NC]

I should've writtten, "since i've not heard of that brand it
would seem unlikely to be a decent make". I cannot be certain
that it's the problem and suggest taking voltage readings with a
multimeter. If you had a better spare PSU it would be a useful
test to swap them. Motherboard is known to run that CPU, video
card is known to work, all that's left (since you could strip
system down to just essentials) are memory, PSU, and CPU. Odds
are low the CPU is bad, and if new memory tests OK with old CPU
in system, that seems unlikely too. PSU is most likely suspect
even without knowing it's origin.

Ok. Thanks again.

NC