Cat 5 cabling

[the staring frogs of Southern Iberia]

Have recently moved into 21st century and signed up for broadband.
Couldn't take the heat from the kids anymore and went with cable access.
Desktop now blazes through the web as supposed to but laptop still accesses
with dialup. To set up the laptop with cable I assume I now need a router
and some cat 5 cable.
Preference is toward hard wired vs. wireless. Router is on its way and
now have checked out cat 5 cable through various sources. Is cat 5 cable all
the same? I've seen pink, blue and grey so far. My thoughts are to buy 50 or
100 feet and run it from the router behind the desktop downstairs in the
cellar and back up into the living room coming up through a phone receptacle
box located there. I've got a plate that has connections for both phone and
ethernet cable that I can switch with the existing cover plate on the wall.
Then just plug in a 7 or 10 footer hooking up to the laptop.
Again my question is all cat 5 cable the same?

 

[jimbo]

Have recently moved into 21st century and signed up for broadband.
Couldn't take the heat from the kids anymore and went with cable access.
Desktop now blazes through the web as supposed to but laptop still accesses
with dialup. To set up the laptop with cable I assume I now need a router
and some cat 5 cable.
Preference is toward hard wired vs. wireless. Router is on its way and
now have checked out cat 5 cable through various sources. Is cat 5 cable all
the same? I've seen pink, blue and grey so far. My thoughts are to buy 50 or
100 feet and run it from the router behind the desktop downstairs in the
cellar and back up into the living room coming up through a phone receptacle
box located there. I've got a plate that has connections for both phone and
ethernet cable that I can switch with the existing cover plate on the wall.
Then just plug in a 7 or 10 footer hooking up to the laptop.
Again my question is all cat 5 cable the same?

The various colors are just to identify "what is what" in that tangle
of cables found in some home networks. If you look at the package,
most Cat5e cable says "Exceeds Cat5e Specifications". There is now a
Cat6 cable available, but as far as I know there is little or no
advantage in using Cat6. If Cat6 is available and dosn't cost you a
lot more I would probably install Cat6. My new house has Cat6
installed by the electrician, who said they now use Cat6 for all phone
and ethernet cable runs.

Good luck, jimbo

 

[the staring frogs of Southern Iberia]

Thanks. Wasn't sure since this will be initial attempt at networking. Wish
me luck.

 

[Lem]

Thanks. Wasn't sure since this will be initial attempt at networking. Wish
me luck.

From all I've seen, you need to be careful in running your own cat5 cable to
ensure (a) no kinks, (b) no staples through the outer jacket or pinching the
conductors, and particularly (c) that the terminations are properly made
(particularly connecting the RJ-45 jacks. Take a look at
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=install+cat5 or run your own Google
search using similar terms.

You probably should invest in some punchdown and crimping tools.

Good luck. Especially if you need to fish cable through old walls.

 

[Chuck]

The various colors are just to identify "what is what" in that tangle
of cables found in some home networks. If you look at the package,
most Cat5e cable says "Exceeds Cat5e Specifications". There is now a
Cat6 cable available, but as far as I know there is little or no
advantage in using Cat6. If Cat6 is available and dosn't cost you a
lot more I would probably install Cat6. My new house has Cat6
installed by the electrician, who said they now use Cat6 for all phone
and ethernet cable runs.

Good luck, jimbo

Jimbo,

There is a major advantage in using Cat6. Cat6 components are easier to
assemble properly, since there's now an extra component (a "load bar") that
helps line up the other components. If you've attached the ends in a Cat5
connector, you'll know the pain of getting all 8 wires properly in sequence,
straight, and untwisted just enough (but not too much).
<http://nitecruzr.blogspot.com/2005/04/making-your-own-ethernet-cables-is-not.html>
http://nitecruzr.blogspot.com/2005/04/making-your-own-ethernet-cables-is-not.html
<http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.aspx>
http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.aspx

Sentinel (for instance) Cat6 components adds the "load bar", which makes lining
the wires up and inserting them into the crimp able connector a lot more
reliable. This also cuts down on NEXT, which provides a more reliable signal.
<http://www.lanshack.com/make_cat_6_cable.aspx>
http://www.lanshack.com/make_cat_6_cable.aspx

 

[Al Dykes]

Jimbo,

There is a major advantage in using Cat6. Cat6 components are easier to
assemble properly, since there's now an extra component (a "load bar") that
helps line up the other components. If you've attached the ends in a Cat5
connector, you'll know the pain of getting all 8 wires properly in sequence,
straight, and untwisted just enough (but not too much).
<http://nitecruzr.blogspot.com/2005/04/making-your-own-ethernet-cables-is-not.html>
http://nitecruzr.blogspot.com/2005/04/making-your-own-ethernet-cables-is-not.html
<http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.aspx>
http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.aspx

Professionals rarely or never install jacks on cables as part of a
project. All the wire they install is termineated in RJ45 sockets via
"110 punchdowns".

Professionals buy patch cables pre-made.

Crimping jacks on cable requires a tool that is expensive (or cheap
crap) and the act of connecting a jack is a major PITA. If you crimp
jacks on two ends and the cable doesn't work, your only recourse is to
cut both ends off (trashing a buck or more in parts) and to try again.

110 punch connections are much easier to do, can be debugged with a
continuity tester and repunched, if necessary.

A 110 punch tool is cheaper than a jack crimp tool and much more
likely to see later use.

Patch cables are stranded cable. Permenant cable should be SOLID.

You should be using SOLID CatX wire between 110 blocks and
factory-made patch cables at each end to conect to your equipment.

Max length runs in the CATx spec call for solid wire. Stranded wire
has a cost in reduced distance.

And, if you are in a building with fire codes or insurance issues, all
permenantly installed wiring should be "plenum rated". This is a very
broad statement, but when in doubt....

Solid cable is generally plenum-rated. Stranded cable rarely is.

 

[Chuck]

Professionals rarely or never install jacks on cables as part of a
project. All the wire they install is termineated in RJ45 sockets via
"110 punchdowns".

Professionals buy patch cables pre-made.

Crimping jacks on cable requires a tool that is expensive (or cheap
crap) and the act of connecting a jack is a major PITA. If you crimp
jacks on two ends and the cable doesn't work, your only recourse is to
cut both ends off (trashing a buck or more in parts) and to try again.

110 punch connections are much easier to do, can be debugged with a
continuity tester and repunched, if necessary.

A 110 punch tool is cheaper than a jack crimp tool and much more
likely to see later use.

Patch cables are stranded cable. Permenant cable should be SOLID.

You should be using SOLID CatX wire between 110 blocks and
factory-made patch cables at each end to conect to your equipment.

Max length runs in the CATx spec call for solid wire. Stranded wire
has a cost in reduced distance.

And, if you are in a building with fire codes or insurance issues, all
permenantly installed wiring should be "plenum rated". This is a very
broad statement, but when in doubt....

Solid cable is generally plenum-rated. Stranded cable rarely is.

Very good, Al. And true professionals don't post here, they'll be found in
Comp.Dcom.Cabling.
<http://groups.google.com/group/comp.dcom.cabling>
http://groups.google.com/group/comp.dcom.cabling

That doesn't mean the folks here won't benefit from serious advice.
# Buy your cables pre made, if at all possible.
# If you feel you must make your own cables, use the right equipment.
# If you're going to the expense and trouble of installing cable, install Cat6.
<http://nitecruzr.blogspot.com/2005/04/making-your-own-ethernet-cables-is-not.html>
http://nitecruzr.blogspot.com/2005/04/making-your-own-ethernet-cables-is-not.html

 

[jimbo]

Jimbo,

There is a major advantage in using Cat6. Cat6 components are easier to
assemble properly, since there's now an extra component (a "load bar") that
helps line up the other components. If you've attached the ends in a Cat5
connector, you'll know the pain of getting all 8 wires properly in sequence,
straight, and untwisted just enough (but not too much).
<http://nitecruzr.blogspot.com/2005/04/making-your-own-ethernet-cables-is-not.html>
http://nitecruzr.blogspot.com/2005/04/making-your-own-ethernet-cables-is-not.html
<http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.aspx>
http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.aspx

Sentinel (for instance) Cat6 components adds the "load bar", which makes lining
the wires up and inserting them into the crimp able connector a lot more
reliable. This also cuts down on NEXT, which provides a more reliable signal.
<http://www.lanshack.com/make_cat_6_cable.aspx>
http://www.lanshack.com/make_cat_6_cable.aspx

Thanks for the insight. I guess that is why the electrician used cat6
throughout my house.

jimbo

 

[the staring frogs of Southern Iberia]

I appreciate all the suggestions so far. The cabling will be in a my home
and the run is about 50 feet max. Have already practiced attaching the RJ45
connectors to the end of some cat 5 cable I was able to get my hands on and
it doesn't seem too bad but I see where if a lot of these connections had to
be made then better tools than I have would sure be handy.Actually after all
is said and done I'll only be attaching one RJ45 connector that will hook up
to the router.As I stated before the other end will terminate in a wall
plate designed to handle both phone and Ethernet. That connection will be
made at work with the help of the IT department.(Proper tools to do it).
Then to hook up the laptop I'll just purchase a ready made 7 or 10
footer to connect from the wall plate to the laptop.
I'll be back when I need help to configure the network if the Network
Wizard fails or if I really screw it up.