Best paper value

  • Thread starter Thread starter TJ
  • Start date Start date
T

TJ

I've seen some discussions here before on which is the best photo paper
for this or that, and some of them have been quite interesting. But
let's face it - there are a lot of printers that never print so much as
a single photo. These printers, both inkjet and laser, usually print
office-type items, some for large offices, some small, some even at home.

And these printers need paper to print on. Plain paper. The choices for
plain paper almost seem endless. Far too many choices for one user to
try them all to find the best value. So I thought I'd come here and ask
for experiences, both good and bad, concerning a good value in plain paper.

As I ask this, keep in mind that I'm talking about more than quality
when I speak of value. Value is a ratio of cost to quality, so for the
purposes of this discussion, I believe that an inexpensive, good-quality
paper is a better *value* than an expensive, ultra-high-quality paper. I
also believe that a low-quality paper is rarely a good value, at any price.

So I'll start things off. I thought I was running low on paper about a
year ago, when I happen to pass a display in Wal-mart. They had some
Georgia-Pacific "Copy & Print" paper on sale, a 5-ream box for around
$16, as I recall. I bought a box, and brought it home. As luck would
have it, somebody gave me a free, unlabeled ream of another paper, and I
used that before trying the GP paper last week. I wish I'd used the GP
paper from the start. The 92-brightness paper is nice and white, and the
text of my prints looks crisp and professional. To my untrained eye, I
can't tell the difference between my Officejet 6110's output on this
paper, and some I've seen from a laser printer.

The free paper, while it was also nice and bright, allowed the ink to
bleed a bit, making the text look, um, fuzzy in comparison. It was OK,
but not nearly as nice as the GP paper. I wish I knew the brand of the
free paper, so I'd know to avoid it in the future. Perhaps it wasn't
meant for inkjet use.

Unfortunately, Wal-mart has apparently stopped carrying this paper. At
least, I didn't see any the last time I was there, and I don't find it
on the Wal-mart website. However, Sam's Club carries a similar-sounding
GP paper, "Image Plus," for about the same price as I paid in Wal-mart.
Next time I need paper, unless I hear of a better value from this
discussion, I'll try that one.

OK, anybody else?

TJ
 
I certainly applaud your pursuit, but I would add a few provisos.

Even more than how certain inks respond to quality inkjet specialized
paper, on plain non-coated paper the ink formulation is even more
critical to the output quality.

The main consideration is pigment versus dye, but there are even
variations within each category.

In general, if you are speaking about black text, pigment inks will
provide you with a dark black fairly well edged print. Most Canon and
HP printers use a pigment black ink. Color ink may vary. Even printers
using black pigment inks may still use dye inks for their colors.

Epson printers do not used mixed inks. Those using Durabrite or
Ultrachrome inks have all pigment inks. Most other Epson inks, are dye
or dye hybrid.

Dye inks are more sensitive to uncoated papers. Dye inks tend to be
less defined and less bright on uncoated papers, and vary considerably
in their density. With dye inks it is best to test which profile you
use with uncoated paper. Using a profile which provides too much ink
will make the result bleed and look muddy and indistinct. Not enough
ink will cause it to be washed out.

For some general rules, when looking for uncoated (plain bond) paper,
look for paper that specifies it is good for inkjet printing. This may
include paper which has some clay or sizing content, or which has short
paper fibers, which lessens the length of the bleed or wicking.

With dye inks, I had some success with both the Xerox High Tech, which
is only a 87 brightness, and the red packaged Xerox reams of paper.

I would suggest when people make recommendations from their experiences,
they also mention which printer and ink they use, as this does make a
significant difference.


Art

If you are interested in issues surrounding e-waste,
I invite you to enter the discussion at my blog:

http://e-trashtalk.spaces.live.com/
 
I certainly applaud your pursuit, but I would add a few provisos.

Even more than how certain inks respond to quality inkjet specialized
paper, on plain non-coated paper the ink formulation is even more
critical to the output quality.

The main consideration is pigment versus dye, but there are even
variations within each category.

In general, if you are speaking about black text, pigment inks will
provide you with a dark black fairly well edged print. Most Canon and
HP printers use a pigment black ink. Color ink may vary. Even printers
using black pigment inks may still use dye inks for their colors.

Epson printers do not used mixed inks. Those using Durabrite or
Ultrachrome inks have all pigment inks. Most other Epson inks, are dye
or dye hybrid.

Dye inks are more sensitive to uncoated papers. Dye inks tend to be
less defined and less bright on uncoated papers, and vary considerably
in their density. With dye inks it is best to test which profile you
use with uncoated paper. Using a profile which provides too much ink
will make the result bleed and look muddy and indistinct. Not enough
ink will cause it to be washed out.

For some general rules, when looking for uncoated (plain bond) paper,
look for paper that specifies it is good for inkjet printing. This may
include paper which has some clay or sizing content, or which has short
paper fibers, which lessens the length of the bleed or wicking.

With dye inks, I had some success with both the Xerox High Tech, which
is only a 87 brightness, and the red packaged Xerox reams of paper.

I would suggest when people make recommendations from their experiences,
they also mention which printer and ink they use, as this does make a
significant difference.
Click to expand...
Excellent points, Arthur. So...

As I stated, so far I've used this paper in an HP Officejet 6110. I also
have a Deskjet 5650, but I haven't used this paper in that one yet.
Since both printers are based on the same print engine, results should
be similar. These printers use HP's #56(black) and #57(tricolor) for
everyday, non-photo printing. The OEM black cart uses pigmented ink,
while the tricolor is dye-based. However, when printing text, unless I
tell the printer specifically not to, it "enhances" the pigmented black
with a little ink from the tricolor. In this case, the black cart had
been "remanufactured," so the ink that is in it is unknown. The color
cart is a slightly out-of-date OEM, so it has dye-based inks in it.

The outside of the box of paper only said the "make and model," and that
it was 92 brightness, 20 lb., and there were 5 reams inside. Inside,
labels stuck on the ends of the individual packages, labels that I
wouldn't have seen in the store, added that the "whiteness" is 145 -
"Cool Blue White."

There is nothing there on the make-up of the paper. Such information is
no doubt available somewhere, but wasn't available when I was making my
impulse decision. "Deals" are quite often like that. You make a decision
based on your gut, and the circumstances at the time. Sometimes, like
this one, it works out. Sometimes it doesn't. The more informed you make
your gut, the more likely it is to steer you the right way. That is the
reason for the discussion.

TJ
 
....
As I ask this, keep in mind that I'm talking about more than quality
when I speak of value. Value is a ratio of cost to quality, so for the
purposes of this discussion, I believe that an inexpensive, good-quality
paper is a better *value* than an expensive, ultra-high-quality paper. I
also believe that a low-quality paper is rarely a good value, at any price.
Click to expand...

A related question: My paper usage is low, so I would prefer to
buy the highest possible quality paper, regardless of price (within
reason of course). But I print mostly text, not photos, so I want
paper that isn't too heavy, and feels fairly normal in the hand.
I've generally been satisfied with paper that specifies "Ink Jet,"
but since the question has come up, I wonder if anyone has any more
specific suggestions.
 
Just what is it you would like the paper to be doing differently or
better than it is now, that you think you would have available to you
for more money? That might help in directing you toward another paper type.

For example, if you want something more tear resistant, that can be
done, or if you want something more permanent and less likely to fade,
that can be done, etc.

Also, what type of printing technology (laser, inkjet, etc) and what
brand and model printer and are you using OEM (manufacturer's brand) or
a third party product.

As I mentioned in a previous posting, the printing technology and ink
formulation has a lot to do with how it will appear on the paper.

Do you print color or black and white? (Some printers use a completely
different technology for printing black (for texts and lien drawings)
than for color images or text, charts, etc.

Art



If you are interested in issues surrounding e-waste,
I invite you to enter the discussion at my blog:

http://e-trashtalk.spaces.live.com/
 
I wish I'd used the GP
paper from the start. The 92-brightness paper is nice and white, and the
text of my prints looks crisp and professional. To my untrained eye, I
can't tell the difference between my Officejet 6110's output on this
paper, and some I've seen from a laser printer.
Click to expand...

There is special paper for inkjet printing.

Making paper is an art - but the simple components are rather straight
forward. A major part is wood fibres - and those are responsible for
goood paper quality, but as well for poor inkjet printing, since those
fibres will spread the ink once they do catch the wet ink. Dye ink should
spread even more than pigmented ink.

One option to prevent this is adding more chalk to the paper. Another
one is to add plastics or glue - and there's much more which may be
added to the paper.

If you want to check the chalk content, just take a dozen of sheets and
burn them carefully so that the ashes won't be blown away. Do measure
before and after burning. The more weight does remain, the less wood was
used.

Another mechanical test may be to fold the paper ten times sharply and
then to check how easily it can be torn to pieces.

Another quality topic may be long time storage, although most office
documents are kept for hours only.

I do not understand the price that you had named before - but it is
possible to buy cheap and low quality, which is better suited for inkjet
printing, than some other high grade and expensive quality paper.
Usually you're off best with dedicated inkjet paper.

I do use here whatever I get, prices in Germany are about 4 EUR/500
sheets A4. That's slightly larger than US letter and would translate to
prices of USD 4 down to USD 2.25 (1:1.5 exchange rate, 19% tax).

- Martin
 
TJ said:
Unfortunately, Wal-mart has apparently stopped carrying this paper. At
least, I didn't see any the last time I was there, and I don't find it
on the Wal-mart website.
Click to expand...

TJ-

I've been using a Georgia-Pacific "Copy & Print" paper in a package with
blue trim from Walmart for several years. Recently, they have been out
of that particular paper in two different nearby Walmarts.

Last week I was getting desperate, and took a look at the alternatives.
I found another "Copy & Print" package with green trim with the same 92
Brightness and 20 pound weight, except labeled "Recycled". I suspect
Walmart will be selling that in the future instead. I haven't used any
of it yet.

Fred
 
Back
Top