Alan Smithee said:
At 50 per cent black the black dots are equal to the number of white dots on
the page.
Not necessarily - it depends on the dot gain. On most media if each dot
on the image is alternately ink and not ink then the image will be much
darker than 50% grey, due to the dot gain alone.
I think "levels" is more a term made popular by Photoshop.
Possibly popularised by it, but it has been used in digital
representations of analogue circuits almost since the inception of the
ADC, interchangeably with "count".
Graphic
artists have been using the term screen when calling for a certain amount of
a particular color.
Again, I think this relates more to the half-tone structure rather than
a particular colour or the density of a particular ink. The screen
defines the resolution of the halftone dots and the angle between the
axes for dots of each primary colour.
Not film, that was ten years ago. But the popular equivalent today for those
of us stuck somewhere between the digital world and the darkroom is the
digital negative produced on pictorico OHP or HGWF. Same dilemma as creating
a negative however. My $200 Epson R300 printer is capable of printing at
5760 DPI which is essentially continous tone. Outputting on an 8.5X11 sheet
of OHP you can produce one honkin' big negative opening up the world of Alt
Processes (Cyanotype, Van Dyke, Pt/Pd. etc.) The problem lies in that
tranparency material absorbs the ink much differently than paper. What I'm
doing now I think is printing using a linear driver (paper) to print to a
non-linear medium (transparency). I'm needing software which is slightly
more sophisticated the the Photoshop Curves tool I now use. Curves is a good
starting point but the controls are a bit touchy-feely.
No - what you need is a printer profile for the media you are using! The
system colour management should be able to cope with this - it is
exactly what it is there for.
There should be a default profile for your Epson R300 printer that is
suitable for the transparency material. Make sure that you are printing
to the printer's colour space (eg. by selecting Printer Color Management
in Print/Preview) and Photoshop should do all of the required
conversions transparently (no pun intended) if you select the
appropriate media in your printer driver.
Generally these default profiles are fairly reasonable for the
combination of Epson transparencies and Epson inks, if that medium is
supported by the printer. However, more accurate results can probably
be obtained using a profiling tool and it is certainly required if you
use non-OEM consumables. I personally have never found the need for
them, but a lot of professionals and quite a few amateurs swear by them.