R
Roy Coorne
You may try it...
Be sure that your 'older' PSU has the aditional 4pin connection.
Be sure that your 'older' PSU has enough juice at 12 V.
Roy
You may try it...
Be sure that your 'older' PSU has the aditional 4pin connection.
Be sure that your 'older' PSU has enough juice at 12 V.
Roy
J
Jan Alter
Do you mean something like this?
http://www.xpcgear.com/20to24pinatx.html
But check to see if that old PS you found in the basement would have
enough watts to power up your board if you had an adapter to fit it 20 to
24.
J
jbruss
Just tried that - didn't work. One thing seems odd to me. Even though
I had the speaker wire off, I still heard the one long beep when I
switched on the power.
J
jbruss
Do you mean something like this?
It's a 200 W PSU, but it should be enough to power the board with ease,
right? I don't think I even have to hook up the drives to see if this
fixes the problem.
It's a 200 W PSU, but it should be enough to power the board with ease,
right? I don't think I even have to hook up the drives to see if this
fixes the problem.
J
Jan Alter
CPU - AMD|A64 X2 3800+ AM2 2x512K R
If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig
with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable
test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't
have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video
card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin
cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't
If the PS is decent I would be thinking at minimum of 300 w to power the rig
with the processor you have. I'd be dubious that you could make a reliable
test even if you had a 20 to 24 pin adapter with a 200 w PS. You wouldn't
have to hook up any drives just as long as you have a cpu, RAM, and video
card on the mb. Additionally the old PS would have to have a squarish 4 pin
cpu plug that fits to the mb. Does it have one? Older ATX PSs don't
J
jbruss
Actually, after thinking about it for a bit, I'm just going to go outJan said:
and buy a PSU and try it. If it doesn't solve the problem, I can
return it. As you say, I want a reliable test, and dinking around with
an old 200 Watt PSU with adaptor doesn't neccessarily give me a good
test. I'll post the results of the PSU switch later today.
thanks,
Jack
J
jbruss
I just put in a new PSU, an Antec SmartPower 2.0 400 Watt, and the same
thing happens, except that now I don't hear the beep. Maybe that means
the beep was coming from the fan speed monitoring unit on the original
PSU? Anyway, any thoughts on what I ought to do next - besides return
the PSU I just bought.
Jack
J
JAD
regard to the power-on and reset buttons and motherboard pins. Your magic 4 second delay is exactly
the effect you would get if power-off were being held down.
NOOOOOOOOO you cannot skimp on the supply. That supply is most likely a 200w / 300w and is going to
fall way short of supplying enough power.
the effect you would get if power-off were being held down.
NOOOOOOOOO you cannot skimp on the supply. That supply is most likely a 200w / 300w and is going to
fall way short of supplying enough power.
J
JAD
VERY good , disregard my other post
J
JAD
im back to the heatsink and fan assembly. if the sink is on 180 defgrees round there will be a gap
between the sink and the cpu.
J
Jan Alter
Well that's disconcerting. As Robert mentioned, disconnect all case wires
(reset, power switch, LEDs) to the pins. They need not be connected to get
the system started.With a flat screwdriver short the two power switch pins
on the mb. I know it's trivial but you have you connected the 4 pin square
cpu plug onto the mb in addition to the 24 pin power connector?
Additionally, you're sure that the cpu hsf connector is on the correct
header for the fan? Many mbs have several headers and if the hsf is
connected to the wrong header the mb will not power on or shut off shortly.
Further, make sure that this mb, with it's onboard video is enabled, if it
has a jumper to be in a certain position. Finally, try resetting the bios,
by first disconnecting the power from the wall outlet and then moving the
jumper and replacing it.
Disconnect any hdds, or CD-ROMs from the system when doing this. If they
are the problem it will then show up later.
If none of this works the problem may be a DOA mb.It's realtively rare that
a processor is bad from the complaints I've read over the years, though
nothing should be discoounted.
K
kony
Many boards with integrated audio will now output beeps
through the sound card.
R
RussellS
----------------------------------------------------------
Yes. Use different memory that is compatible with that board, as I said in
2 previous posts. That 2.2V memory is not supported by your motherboard.
Take my word for it; that is the problem.
Russell
http://tastycomputers.com
K
kony
If your old 200W PSU was modern, such that it had a large %
of it's capacity on the 12V rail, it might work. Otherwise,
"maybe" it'll work but the odds are a lot lower.
If your board has the standard 24 pin connector, you can
connect a standard 20 pin PSU plug, the other 4 positions
are redundant, meant to deliver more current but this isn't
really a necessary thing on a system that isn't using a lot
of power.
Before you disconnect that new PSU, unplug it from AC, clear
the CMOS, then retry it. If you have a multimeter handy
then measure battery voltage, or if you have a spare
battery, swap it in, and retry with any or all PSU.
If you did manage to get it working with the old 200W PSU,
I'd not run it long term like that, it'll likely be short
lived with the load of a modern system.
J
jbruss
Jan said:
Well, guys - I have to confess that I have found the problem and am
totally embarrassed. This is the 6th or 7th computer I've built in the
past 8 years, but the first with a PSU power cable that comes with 2
parts, a 20 pin and an adjacent 4 pin. I know now this was for
backwards compatibility, but every time I read in the mb manual about
the CPU 4 pin plug, or when someone here asked about making sure the 4
pin plug was attached, I mentally thought of the 4 pin plug adjacent to
the 20 pin power plug, which I had plugged in correctly.
But Jan above mentioned the 4 pin plug again, and I took another, of
many looks, having noticed the "ATX 12v 4 pin socket" on my mb earlier
and wondering why I had nothing to connect to it, and it finally hit me
like a ton of bricks - I need to connect a cable to that socket!
Feeling chagrined, I found a power cable that fit, plugged it in, and
of course the unit stayed on.
So, all I have to do now is remove the PSU I bought, put the other back
in, hook up all the leds, drives, etc, and get back to business getting
this thing up and running.
So, thanks for all the help. I'll post another message when I get a
little further to let you know, hopefully, that I got this unit booted
and loaded ok.
Feeling silly, but happy to have found the problem,
Jack
R
RussellS
------------------------------------------------
Glad to hear it, Jack. We were all sure that your power hookups were OK, as
it was mentioned to check them several times, and you had confirmed that
they were OK. I still say try to exchange the memory you have for
compatible memory for your motherboard; you will run into ongoing problems
with under-powering that 2.2V memory.
Let us know how everything goes,
Russell
http://tastycomputers.com
J
JAD
I have to say that this is the first time I have seen a system that powered
up but didn't STAY running because the AUX 12 wasn't plugged in...it simply
should not have fired up. But goes to show ya...
J
Jan Alter
Yeh, those revolations usually come only after a lot of self torture.
But,... it contributes to great character building.
O
OSbandito
RussellS remembered about memory:
Yah, best I see for put-out is 1.95v, even with later bios.
Yah, best I see for put-out is 1.95v, even with later bios.
J
jbruss
Yes, my character was built up greatly during this execise.
Well, Ijust booted up, formatted, and installed Windows, so I believe I am off
and running.
Thanks again to all for the helpful advice.
Jack