Motherboard Tray Dimples vs Brass Standoffs

T

Theodat

I have ordered a case and it arrived with dimples - raised posts in
the motherboard tray. I have only built three systems in the past and
never had a case come with the dimples. All of the others had the
brass screw in standoffs.

I assume I screw the board directly to the dimples (they take the
place of the brass standoffs): Correct? Then I was wondering what the
proper way to shield the unused dimples from coming in contact with my
motherboard? My case came with 3 or 4 little plastic plugs that seem
to be for that purpose. What if I don't have enough of the plastic
plugs to fill all unused dimples? Is black electrical type
sufficient?

In your opinion is the design of dimples better or worse than the
screw in brass standoffs?

Thanks in advance...

Theodat
 
D

David Sontag

I have ordered a case and it arrived with dimples - raised posts in
the motherboard tray. I have only built three systems in the past and
never had a case come with the dimples. All of the others had the
brass screw in standoffs.

I assume I screw the board directly to the dimples (they take the
place of the brass standoffs): Correct? Then I was wondering what the
proper way to shield the unused dimples from coming in contact with my
motherboard?

I used black electrical tape....
My case came with 3 or 4 little plastic plugs that seem
to be for that purpose. What if I don't have enough of the plastic
plugs to fill all unused dimples? Is black electrical type
sufficient?

So far good .. in a few years who know...
In your opinion is the design of dimples better or worse than the
screw in brass standoffs?

I prefer the standoffs.
Thanks in advance...

Theodat

David
 
O

Overlord

Cheap case. I used one of those on my son's computer.
I don't like the dimples.
Use the plastic posts where they'll be the most effective.
Dimples are wider than brass standoffs and have more threat of
contacting soldered leads on the back of the MB.
Screw down into all the dimples that line up with the mounting holes of the MB.
Those dimples that line up with leads on the back of the MB, plug 'em AND
tape 'em. The dimples you don't have plugs for, just tape 'em.
Pay particular attention to mechanically supporting the MB around where
you'll be plugging RAM and PCI cards as these will flex the board and, without
the plugs, could push the leads near the slots thru the electrical tape.
I would group the plugs near the PCI slots if possible, depending on your
MB mounting holes and dimple configuration.
If there are MB mounting holes that don't line up on anything... dig around
an old system or a friends house and come up with the older plastic MB mounts.
You can quite often cut them down to still support the board even when there
are no mounting slots for them in the case.
I've even used small diagonal cutters to cut off the extra length of some soldered
leads on the back of the MB when they were in "questionable" areas.

You get the idea. If you have leads on the MB that will contact the tape over the
dimple, and you have no more plugs.... it's a accident waiting to happen.
Cruise the hardware store's nylon crap. You'll find something you can adapt.
Find thin hard plastic you can cover the dimple with using velcro or double
sided tape around the dimple. OR find some nylon rod you can cut short and
heat a screwdriver to make a plug "head" on one end of it.
In any case<g> don't set it up with the soldered leads contacting the tape over
the dimple else you'll end up posting in here from a friend's computer....

If it makes you feel better, but the soldered leads short and file them (gently!).
You still don't want needle pointed leads digging into plastic or tape.

If you don't want to go to the hardware store, you can probably get by with what
you find around the house. I bought a peach pie at the grocery store last night.
The front of the packaged pie is that thin hard clear plastic. Perfect material.
You don't have to live with what the case guys gave you.




no... you can't have my pie.....

I have ordered a case and it arrived with dimples - raised posts in
the motherboard tray. I have only built three systems in the past and
never had a case come with the dimples. All of the others had the
brass screw in standoffs.

I assume I screw the board directly to the dimples (they take the
place of the brass standoffs): Correct? Then I was wondering what the
proper way to shield the unused dimples from coming in contact with my
motherboard? My case came with 3 or 4 little plastic plugs that seem
to be for that purpose. What if I don't have enough of the plastic
plugs to fill all unused dimples? Is black electrical type
sufficient?

In your opinion is the design of dimples better or worse than the
screw in brass standoffs?

Thanks in advance...

Theodat
~~~~~~
Bait for spammers:
root@localhost
postmaster@localhost
admin@localhost
abuse@localhost
postmaster@[127.0.0.1]
(e-mail address removed)
~~~~~~
Remove "spamless" to email me.
 
T

Theodat

Kurt,

Thanks for the help. Put the computer together yesterday and all went
well. The mobo lined up with all but on dimple and the nylon plug
seems to be working for that point. Fortunately, no solder points
near that one. The case is definately cheap. Had to put another
power supply in, the one it came with did not even have the standard
toggle on/off switch. I guess I get what I pay for, thought I could
cut corners... I will buy a case that is not cheap in the future.

Theodat
 
W

We Live for the One we Die for the One

You can buy a cheap case as long as it has all you want the basic
stuff :) they are out their good cheap cases.
 
O

Overlord

That's a good deal.
With a modern OS on an ATX system an ON/OFF switch is not strictly necessary.
OS/BIOS controls the system coming on and off (sorta off anyway).
Of course I like being more in control<G>.
Cheap cases are not bad per se. True the thin sides of it may ripple when you
close the study door like sheets on the clothesline... knifelike edges may ensure
that you put your heart and blood into your system.... and certainly cheap cases
ALWAYS have cheap power supplies. But your cheap power supply may have
been fine enough to run a run of the mill, not too heavily loaded system; ie.
1 hard drive, 1 fan, lower end not too power hungry video card, not overclocked,
etc. A cheap case/PS is enough to run my 7 year old's K6-2 500 just fine.


Kurt,

Thanks for the help. Put the computer together yesterday and all went
well. The mobo lined up with all but on dimple and the nylon plug
seems to be working for that point. Fortunately, no solder points
near that one. The case is definately cheap. Had to put another
power supply in, the one it came with did not even have the standard
toggle on/off switch. I guess I get what I pay for, thought I could
cut corners... I will buy a case that is not cheap in the future.

Theodat

~~~~~~
Bait for spammers:
root@localhost
postmaster@localhost
admin@localhost
abuse@localhost
postmaster@[127.0.0.1]
(e-mail address removed)
~~~~~~
Remove "spamless" to email me.
 
E

Ed_

I have ordered a case and it arrived with dimples - raised posts in
the motherboard tray. I have only built three systems in the past and
never had a case come with the dimples. All of the others had the
brass screw in standoffs.

I assume I screw the board directly to the dimples (they take the
place of the brass standoffs): Correct? Then I was wondering what the
proper way to shield the unused dimples from coming in contact with my
motherboard? My case came with 3 or 4 little plastic plugs that seem
to be for that purpose. What if I don't have enough of the plastic
plugs to fill all unused dimples? Is black electrical type
sufficient?

In your opinion is the design of dimples better or worse than the
screw in brass standoffs?

Thanks in advance...

Theodat


My first build was with an Evercase that has dimples. I used electrical tape on
all of the dimples and then lined the mobo up and used an ice pick to poke holes
wherever the screw holes on the mobo were. This way I knew for sure that any
dimples not contacting with screws on the mobo would be taped over. It also
assures that excess metal on the dimples in use will not contact the board.

Two years later it's still humming along and I still like that case a lot.

Ed
 
T

Theodat

My first build was with an Evercase that has dimples. I used electrical tape on
all of the dimples and then lined the mobo up and used an ice pick to poke holes
wherever the screw holes on the mobo were. This way I knew for sure that any
dimples not contacting with screws on the mobo would be taped over. It also
assures that excess metal on the dimples in use will not contact the board.

Two years later it's still humming along and I still like that case a lot.

Ed

It seems the computers that last me the longest are the ones I build.
I had the first one I ever built a Pentium 166 stuck in the closet for
a few years..My wife finally got me to throw it away...of course not
until I "salvaged" a few parts.
 
G

Guest

I assume I screw the board directly to the dimples (they take
the place of the brass standoffs): Correct? Then I was wondering
what the proper way to shield the unused dimples from coming in
contact with my motherboard? My case came with 3 or 4 little
plastic plugs that seem to be for that purpose. What if I don't
have enough of the plastic plugs to fill all unused dimples? Is
black electrical tape sufficient?

Never trust electrical tape for insulation because it's too soft and
can be pierced easily. Use a tougher material, such as cardboard
(best is "fish" paper, a hard cardboard sold by electronics supplies,
but fiber washers are perfectly fine), Mylar, or nylon. Electronics
supplies and real hardware stores sell nylon washers, and office
supplies carry Mylar sheets. Don't assume that the motherboard can be
screwed directly to every standoff or dimple because there's often at
least one hole with traces running too closely to the hole to clear
them or the screw head -- inspect every hole, top and bottom.

The motherboard should be supported at every hole, to prevent flexing
that can make the board touch the case, and any hole without a
matching dimple or standoff below it should be supported with a nylon
standoff, although it may have to be trimmed on the bottom for the
proper length.
 

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments. After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.

Ask a Question

Top