Master or Slave

A

attilathehun1

It turns out I only have one IDE connector on this motherboard and a bunch of
sata connectors. Right now I want to get this PC up and running so I'm gonig
to use the old hard drive that I was using on my Dell 8300. This drive is a
Seagate Baracuda 7200.7 80 GB hard drive.
Hell with trying to push it. I'm using 2 optical drives. One as the master
and the other as a slave. The master will be the burner and the slave to play
games.
The hard drive is going to be a sata. I've never used one before. I better
follow the motherboard manual and learn it now.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
D

DL

If the old hd contains the o/s from Dell then probably you wont be able to
use this installation on your new PC.
Obtain the raid drivers from the mobo site, they usually have a make floppy
download, copy to floppy
Connect sata, edit the bios for sata boot, according to mobo manual
Boot up with winxp cd, use the F6 option early in the installation process
to install third party drivers from floppy - continue with installation - as
this is a clean install all files on the sata hd will be destroyed.
 
B

Bob Harris

You will probably need to perform a "repair" installation of XP, due to
hardware changes, and especially to use the F6 option of the XP installer to
feed new SATA drivers to XP. Otherwise, XP will probably not even see this
hard drive. These drivers must be on a floppy, not on a CD. The drivers
come from the motherboard maker, not the hard drive maker.

In general the copy of XP CD (if any) that came with the Dell will probably
not support a repair install. Further, it probably will not support a clean
install, except on that same model of Dell. This is one of the "features"
of OEM-type PCs with XP (and Vista). The operating system is not
tranaferrable the way it might have been under win98.

Thus, you will probably need to purchase a new "retail" XP CD to have any
hope of swaping the hard dirve into new hardware.

If you purchase only an OEM CD, then you will be able to do a clean install
(i.e., format first, lose all data, then install XP).

Note that even with an retail CD the repair installation may fail, and then
you will be left with no option except a clean install.

Thus, BACKUP all personal data off of the hard drive BEFORE attempting any
of this. Ditto for any programs you purchased via download; save their
installer and any email with license key, unlock code, etc.

Then, read the motherboard manual, twice, or more. Pay particular attention
to any words about a "raid" controller for SATA. In some cases such a
controller will be smart enough to know that a single internal hard drive
should be treated as just a plain disk. In other cases you may need to
"build" a "raid array" containing just one disk. In the latter case, look
for some comnbination of keys (e.g., CTRL-F) to enter the controller setup.
This usually appears towards ther end of the BIOS checks. Note also that
the controller setup may be separate form the BIOS setup. It is on my ASUS
motherboard.

As for testing wther the motherboard can "see" the hard drive, first watch
the BIOS checks. Second, try booting from a diagnostic CD form the hard
drive maker. For Seagate, try their SeaTools CD (image you burn to CD,
which is bootable). It can "see" and test hard drives, no matter what their
format, or even if no format, if they are connnected properly and recognized
by the BIOS. (I they are not, then XP won't work either.) Caution: Avoid
any testing option that sounds like "low level format" or even just plain
format.

http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/downloads/seatools
 
A

attilathehun1

OK, forget the Dell, that's over. I figure I was doing an upgrade to my Dell
8300 and it turns out everything is new except the optical DVD drive and the
couple of expansion cards. A new CPU, a new mobo, a new SATA hard drive; a
SAMSUNG Spinpoint SP1614C. So, really it's a whole new PC.
I figured this is threading water using my old hard drive and since there
is only one IDE connector on this mobo, might as well go with the flow. There
are 4 SATA connectors.
Which brings me to my next question about the hardware.
There are 3 yellow SATA110/1/2/3/4/5 connectors and 1 purple GSATA110/1
connector. Which one do I want to use for this new SAMSUNG Spinpoint?
Another thing, now don't get upset or laugh, this is new to me, is the
jumper. There isn't a jumper provided. There are the jumper prongs, but no
jumper came with the device or it's been so long that this hard drive has
been sitting in my closet, boxed up, that I don't remember if a jumper came
with it.
I read your reply about configuring the hard drive. I've read somewhat
about BIOS and the SATA and it said something about disabling if you don't
want RAID. Or is that an option?
I just want to get this PC up and running ASAP. I can go back later and
configure RAID later, can't I?
Ok, lets try and get a response here, and I'll send another reply to a PC
tech and hope he responds soon.
I have to get out to Orange County, Fountain Valley soon, and won't be back
until late tonight. I need this PC up and running by the time the stock
market opens tomorrow morning.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
P

peter

You want to use Sata110/1.........and Jumpers are a thing of the past.
Some of the newer SATA 2 drives might have a jumper to make it compatible
with SATA1 controllers..
You want to be sure that you have the right SATA drivers on a Floppy as
during the XP install that’s the only place
XP will look for them.
Seeing as you did not name the Mobo we cant tell you which driver is
right.or wether you have the original SATA1 or SATA 2
Did your new mobo not come with a manual??? its amazing the information and
help that’s actually printed in some of them..
On my Abit board it was an option to turn on RAID...the default was Off..

peter
 
A

attilathehun1

This is a brand new drive, it's a SATA SAMSUNG Spinpoint SP1614C, but it
turns out it doesn't matter what kinda drive it is. I just brought the PC
DIY that I'm building to a PC store because the video card got stuck into 3
slots instead of the two slots it's supposed to take up. The PC Club tech
told me that your motherboard was no good. He used a motherboard tester and
everything else tested ok, but the mobo was dead. He said anywhere from 15%
to 20% of mobos are no good shipped out of the factory.
Ok, all this for not. I'm reinstalling the old drive into the Dell 8300.
I'm sending the motherboard back to newegg.com. I've had it almost a month
now.
Alright thanks for all the input.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
A

attilathehun1

Ok, that's what my question was if I had to configure something or just let
the Windows XP Pro operating system recognize the drive during the initial
installation. I was told today that I didn't have to do anything and it would
recognize it during installation by a PC tech at PC Club.
When I was at the last installation of firing up the PC to see if it would
work, a snag happened. The video card is a monster, and it takes up two
slots, well not 2 PCI slots, but 2 slots at the backplate. You have to take
out 2 rear expansion slot covers during installation. Well, the damn card got
stuck between 3 slots, don't ask me how, but it happened. I was so pissed off
by that time, I just opened the trunk and tossed it in and drove to the PC
Club. For $29.95 he unstuck the video card and installed it. I offered $20
bucks in cash and he said ok, but I forgot my ATM card, so I was out of luck
there. I did learn how to do it, he unscrewed the backplate holder, and then
unstuck the card. So for about $30 bucks I learned how to get a card unstuck.
One thing though, the PC didn't fire up. He put a motherboard tester onto P1
of the power supply and it turns out the motherboard was dead.
Now I've said to my friend and family members that if you bring your PC
into a PC store 9 out of 10 times the tech will say you need a mobo. That's
simple, I go to someone's house or business and tell them after a quick
check that they need a motherboard. Great, how easy. Well I was in no
position to argue and now I'm about to call newegg.com and get an RMA number
or some wtf number to return this mobo. The other tech at PC Club said almost
20 % of motherboards coming out of the factory don't work. I figure it's
about 10% maybe and that's pushing it.
Ok, here goes; Gigabyte S-Series model # GA-EP35C-DS3R. This mobo has one
IDE connector and 4 SATA connectors, 3 yellows and 1 purple. Now I realize
what the setting on the jumper on the hard drives when it says master with a
non ATA-compatible slave. Probably it has something to do with SATA and then
a non-SATA. That's just a question that's been bugging me for 2 or 3 years
everytime I see it on a hard drive about the jumper setting.
Ok, lets move on. I'm fixing up my old Dell 8300 again and plugging
everything back into it. I was upgrading my Dell 8300 and now this mobo
problem. I figure it probably is the problem because the PC Club tech plugged
his tester into motherboard power supply connector and took readings. The CPU
chip was stuck onto the heatsink. I had to go out and buy a hair dryer for 10
bucks and use it on high settings hot for 20 seoncds. I first through the
heatsink with attached chip into the freezer, then an hour later took it out
and 20 minutes later used the hair dryer and a straight edge screwdriver and
the chip came right off. Great what a little applied heat will do.
I want to know if I should use arctic silver or thermal paste. l cleaned
off both pieces and now I'm ready to apply the paste. It's a stock 8300 Dell.
I haven't changed the chip or heatsink. In fact, this was the first time I
ever took the heatsink off.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
P

Paul

attilathehun1 said:
Ok, that's what my question was if I had to configure something or just let
the Windows XP Pro operating system recognize the drive during the initial
installation. I was told today that I didn't have to do anything and it would
recognize it during installation by a PC tech at PC Club.
When I was at the last installation of firing up the PC to see if it would
work, a snag happened. The video card is a monster, and it takes up two
slots, well not 2 PCI slots, but 2 slots at the backplate. You have to take
out 2 rear expansion slot covers during installation. Well, the damn card got
stuck between 3 slots, don't ask me how, but it happened. I was so pissed off
by that time, I just opened the trunk and tossed it in and drove to the PC
Club. For $29.95 he unstuck the video card and installed it. I offered $20
bucks in cash and he said ok, but I forgot my ATM card, so I was out of luck
there. I did learn how to do it, he unscrewed the backplate holder, and then
unstuck the card. So for about $30 bucks I learned how to get a card unstuck.
One thing though, the PC didn't fire up. He put a motherboard tester onto P1
of the power supply and it turns out the motherboard was dead.
Now I've said to my friend and family members that if you bring your PC
into a PC store 9 out of 10 times the tech will say you need a mobo. That's
simple, I go to someone's house or business and tell them after a quick
check that they need a motherboard. Great, how easy. Well I was in no
position to argue and now I'm about to call newegg.com and get an RMA number
or some wtf number to return this mobo. The other tech at PC Club said almost
20 % of motherboards coming out of the factory don't work. I figure it's
about 10% maybe and that's pushing it.
Ok, here goes; Gigabyte S-Series model # GA-EP35C-DS3R. This mobo has one
IDE connector and 4 SATA connectors, 3 yellows and 1 purple. Now I realize
what the setting on the jumper on the hard drives when it says master with a
non ATA-compatible slave. Probably it has something to do with SATA and then
a non-SATA. That's just a question that's been bugging me for 2 or 3 years
everytime I see it on a hard drive about the jumper setting.
Ok, lets move on. I'm fixing up my old Dell 8300 again and plugging
everything back into it. I was upgrading my Dell 8300 and now this mobo
problem. I figure it probably is the problem because the PC Club tech plugged
his tester into motherboard power supply connector and took readings. The CPU
chip was stuck onto the heatsink. I had to go out and buy a hair dryer for 10
bucks and use it on high settings hot for 20 seoncds. I first through the
heatsink with attached chip into the freezer, then an hour later took it out
and 20 minutes later used the hair dryer and a straight edge screwdriver and
the chip came right off. Great what a little applied heat will do.
I want to know if I should use arctic silver or thermal paste. l cleaned
off both pieces and now I'm ready to apply the paste. It's a stock 8300 Dell.
I haven't changed the chip or heatsink. In fact, this was the first time I
ever took the heatsink off.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1

Arctic Silver is a brand of thermal paste. What counts is using some kind
of thermal paste, as a thermal paste is a better conductor of heat, than a
thin layer of air would be. The thermal paste is there to displace air and
push the air out of the way, when the heatsink is compressed into it. An
"Oreo cookie" consisting of metal-paste-metal works better than
metal-air-metal.

I'm not familiar with PC Club and just exactly what a motherboard tester
they would be using. With a completely empty motherboard, all you can test
is that pressing the front Power button, causes the power supply to start.
You need the components plugged in (processor, memory, video card and so
on), to do a more thorough test. From your description, it is hard to say
how the technician reached that conclusion.

The defectivity rate of motherboards should not be 20%. Imagine if a company
makes 5 million motherboards per month - they'd have 1 million coming back
every month. Think how many humans it would take to handle that.

Paul
 
A

attilathehun1

Yeah your right, 5 million customers and 1 million coming back. I'd say 5% is
pushing it. One in twenty, ok maybe a bit more. Ten percent! No, I think 5%
is right. Ok, enough of this betting or gambing on the % of mobos that aren't
good coming out of the factory. I'd say 50% of the time or more you bring
your PC to a PC tech store the PC employee will say it's the mobo. That's a
for sure. Like I said, how easy. The washing machine man came to see our
machine when it was on the blink and even he said it was the mobo on the
washing machine.
Ok, I just ordered DDR 333 RAM, a 512 stick for the Elitegroup mobo. I
bought this mobo from newegg.com about 45 days ago, and I'm just now getting
it going. I bought it because they gave a free 512 Kingston DDR 400 RAM stick
as a throw-in. Acutally, I bought the RAM stick and the mobo was thrown in,
that's the way I'm looking at it. Also, a heatsink that will fit this mobo.
This motherboard is something of an alien. I took off the heatsink bracket,
it required motherboard removal because of the bottom-plate, and it only has
two holes for installing a heatsink. Usually there are 4 holes, I think? Ok,
so the last thing I purchased, which was wrong, was the ZALMAN VF900-Cu VGA
cooler.
I still want to use the ATI FireGL X2 AGP Pro video card. When I play D2exp
the screen flickers. I never had that problem with the FireGL X2. I went into
BIOS and configured the video to 128mb, it was on 256mb and I think that
elivated some of the flicker. Would that have anything to do with flickering?
The mistake of ordering the cooler, I should've ordered the video card for
the ECS mobo. This video card is from ECS N8400GS2-512DS GeForce 8400 GS
512MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card for $42.99 from
newegg.com. I was about to purchase this card, but what do you think about
this card? I've read some reviews about this motherboard from newegg and I
don't want any hang-ups. I figure a card from ECS will be compatible. Also,
this board had an addendum attached saying it doesn't support DDR 400 RAM.
That's a problem, because user manual it says to use DDR 400 RAM.
Do you think it's worth it to even start this mobo? Maybe I should purchase
another mobo. I've only bought DDR 333 512 stick RAM so far, and a heatsink,
I could on any other board. What would you do?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
P

Paul

attilathehun1 said:
Yeah your right, 5 million customers and 1 million coming back. I'd say 5% is
pushing it. One in twenty, ok maybe a bit more. Ten percent! No, I think 5%
is right. Ok, enough of this betting or gambing on the % of mobos that aren't
good coming out of the factory. I'd say 50% of the time or more you bring
your PC to a PC tech store the PC employee will say it's the mobo. That's a
for sure. Like I said, how easy. The washing machine man came to see our
machine when it was on the blink and even he said it was the mobo on the
washing machine.

I don't know what the number is, but common sense tells you it is less than
20%. My old company had staff at the plant, that did repair work, and there
was a small army of them. And they might be working on hundreds of boards,
not a million. Even if the staff are paid peanuts, the size of the building
to house an army to handle 1 million boards per month, would be huge.
Ok, I just ordered DDR 333 RAM, a 512 stick for the Elitegroup mobo. I
bought this mobo from newegg.com about 45 days ago, and I'm just now getting
it going. I bought it because they gave a free 512 Kingston DDR 400 RAM stick
as a throw-in. Acutally, I bought the RAM stick and the mobo was thrown in,
that's the way I'm looking at it.

The AMD boards are slightly tunable. There is a setting called "command rate",
and a value of "2T" is less aggressive than "1T". If you couldn't run
DDR400 1T, you'd try DDR400 2T, then DDR333 1T, then DDR333 2T, and something
better be error free by the time you get that low down the performance scale.
I'd use a copy of memtest86+ from memtest.org, loaded on a floppy disk,
as a test that the memory was OK. A couple passes without errors, taking
an hour or two, means you can then install Windows (or try to). On my
computers, I do some testing first, before I try to load Windows.
Because otherwise, I could be wasting time for nothing.
Also, a heatsink that will fit this mobo.
This motherboard is something of an alien. I took off the heatsink bracket,
it required motherboard removal because of the bottom-plate, and it only has
two holes for installing a heatsink. Usually there are 4 holes, I think? Ok,
so the last thing I purchased, which was wrong, was the ZALMAN VF900-Cu VGA
cooler.

Looking at the picture in the manual, the two screws hold the retention bracket
in place. There are three tabs on either end of the retention bracket, and
you'd slide the ends of a clip over both sets of tabs. Some of the coolers
will use the existing retention bracket, so you don't have to remove it.
It all depends on how expensive and big a cooler you're going to use.

This cooler has 1300 reviews. "ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 64 Pro 92mm CPU Cooler" $30
You leave the retention bracket in place for this one. There are three holes on
each end of the clip. There is a level which rotates to apply pressure. So the
clip should fit without a big fight. Then you rotate the lever to finish the
job. S754 is in the list of supported sockets. The base of the heatsink is
already coated with MX-2 and doesn't need any help from the user (this
assumes you fit it right the first time, and don't scrape all the goo off
it).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185125

http://www.arcticcooling.com/cpu2.php?idx=80&disc=

(Installation instructions)

http://www.arctic-cooling.com/downloads/installation/install_freezer64_pro.pdf
I still want to use the ATI FireGL X2 AGP Pro video card. When I play D2exp
the screen flickers. I never had that problem with the FireGL X2. I went into
BIOS and configured the video to 128mb, it was on 256mb and I think that
elivated some of the flicker. Would that have anything to do with flickering?

The setting you're referring to, is called "AGP aperture". What it does,
is define a window into system memory, for use by the video card.
When the video card has run out of RAM, it might need more room to
store textures. Then it could use system RAM. The number you see
in the BIOS, is a maximum utilization value - it doesn't get used
the instant you set that in the BIOS. If you're not doing 3D, then
the system memory should be reusable. I keep mine set on the low
side - I may have tested some other values, but for me it didn't seem
to make a difference to the game I was playing.

AGP aperture was more important, when video cards didn't have a lot of
their own RAM. Now the cards have a decent amount of RAM, so there is
less reason to use system RAM for that.

I can't tell you right off hand why it flickers. If you run 3DMark2001SE
benchmark, does it still flicker ? This is a 40MB download. I like this
test, because it is one of the smaller downloads for 3D benchmarking.

http://majorgeeks.com/download99.html

Of course, when we're talking about the FireGL video card, that fits
in an AGP motherboard, so that won't be going in the GF6100 motherboard.

Perhaps you could tell me again, which AGP motherboard, you have the
flickering problem with the FireGL (effectively a 9800XT AGP8X).

If I had to start somewhere, I'd be reviewing what drivers I was using.
You'd need a chipset AGP driver, the ATI Catalyst driver and control
panel package, and DirectX 9c or greater (from Microsoft). A version
of DirectX should have been included on the ATI video card installer
CD. With ATI, it is best to get a more recent driver from the web
site - for my 9800Pro, the CD they included, caused the computer to
crash.
The mistake of ordering the cooler, I should've ordered the video card for
the ECS mobo. This video card is from ECS N8400GS2-512DS GeForce 8400 GS
512MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card for $42.99 from
newegg.com. I was about to purchase this card, but what do you think about
this card? I've read some reviews about this motherboard from newegg and I
don't want any hang-ups. I figure a card from ECS will be compatible. Also,
this board had an addendum attached saying it doesn't support DDR 400 RAM.
That's a problem, because user manual it says to use DDR 400 RAM.
Do you think it's worth it to even start this mobo? Maybe I should purchase
another mobo. I've only bought DDR 333 512 stick RAM so far, and a heatsink,
I could on any other board. What would you do?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1

Well, generally you build a computer for a reason. Office work. Stock
trading. Gaming. Home theatre system. The hardware you put in it, is
a reflection of what you hope to do with it. The 8400 won't be a
strong card, but it also won't cost you an arm and a leg.

What happened to the 3870 I thought you bought ? Why not try one
of those ? You've already got it in your room, so it is ready to go.
Nothing to buy. All you'd need, is a decent power supply to power it.
The 3870 should make a better gaming card than the 8400GS.

The 3870 has ten times the memory bandwidth of the 8400GS.
It's a different class of card. The 8400GS has its place, like
perhaps a home theater HTPC build, but wouldn't be as strong
a gamer card.

http://www.gpureview.com/show_cards.php?card1=547&card2=529

Paul
 
A

attilathehun1

Yeah, I was thinking about that, but this ATI Radeon HD 3870 is so long and
huge I don't think it's the right card to put into the case I using for it or
even this mobo. Anyhow, isn't this an Intel chipset card, the ATI Radeon HD
3870? Oh no, I see Radeon and that means AMD chipset?
These questions are one at a time that I'd like to be answered if you
could? For example, this is question #1.
Ok, now for question #2. I've kinda decided on a cheaper card from
newegg.com. I'm deciding between 2 different cards.
Here they are: the ECS N8400GS2-512DS GeForce 8400 GS 512MB 64-bit GDDR2
PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card. $42.99 from newegg.com
Or the Asus EN8400GS SILENT/HTP/512M GeForce 8400 GS 512MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI
Express x16 HDCP Ready Video Card. $49.99 from newegg.com
Now I'll point out the couple of differences I've noticed. The interface is
PCI Express 2.0 x16 with the ECS card , PCI Express x16 with the ASUS card,
only. No 2.0 there on the ASUS.
Next difference; the memory clock on the ASUS is 1000 MHz, and only 800MHz
with the ECS.
Next difference; the Asus is certified for Windows Vista and I don't see
the ECS certified for that.
Packaging; the ASUS comes with a HDTV cable and I don't see that with the
ECS.
One is fanless, the ASUS, the other ECS with a fan.
Which is better for me, do you think?
One more thing, I want a card that is AMD compatible. I don't want to go to
AMD's website and try and download the chipset video drivers for the card.
Remember I went to Intel's website, Intel Technologies,
http://support.intel.com and couldn't find the lastest AGP drivers. I don't
want that problem. I mean I went to the website and couldn't even find the
download that I wanted.
Another question, these cards, the AGP slot cards, aren't they outdated a
bit? These new cards are PCI Express, maybe they are compitable with other
chipsets?
Ok, there are about 4 questions I've asked and maybe answering just the
first 2 would be fine. All four questions are bugging me though.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
P

Paul

attilathehun1 said:
Yeah, I was thinking about that, but this ATI Radeon HD 3870 is so long and
huge I don't think it's the right card to put into the case I using for it or
even this mobo. Anyhow, isn't this an Intel chipset card, the ATI Radeon HD
3870? Oh no, I see Radeon and that means AMD chipset?

PCI Express is more agnostic than previous slot technologies. You should be
able to mix whatever PCi Express video card you want with whatever chipset
you want. I see no evidence of "brandedness" at the hardware level.

The only time brand matters, is when using two cards running in SLI or
Crossfire, and brand is enforced for business reasons. Two Nvidia cards
run in SLI on an Nvidia chipset motherboard. Two ATI cards run in
Crossfire, on either an ATI chipset or an Intel chipset board. But
these are business decisions made by the companies, to restrict where
the drivers work. And the drivers still allow two cards to connect to
four monitors (i.e. not run in Crossfire or SLI) on any chipset. Crossfire
and SLI, are where two graphics cards work on half the image, thereby
doubling the performance level. And for business reasons, to increase
chipset sales, the drivers only accept a request to do Crossfire or
SLI, when the motherboard chipset matches their desired membership.

None of the previous paragraph is about the hardware level. One PCI
Express chipset, can talk to any other PCI Express video card. In the
same way that any brand of SATA hard drive can talk to any motherboard.
I don't try to mix a Seagate hard drive with a Seagate motherboard,
because there is no such thing.

All conformance stories have their exceptions. And in a way, the story
is similar to the SATA story. There are some 3Gbit/sec SATA drives,
that won't work with certain 1.5Gbit/sec motherboard chipsets. The workaround
is to use a jumper on the hard drive, to "force" the interface down to
1.5Gbit/sec. The interface is supposed to negotiate the connection rate
itself, but sometimes needs to be forced. Video cards have a similar
problem, starting with the 8800GT. The 8800GT is one of the first
cards with a version 2 PCI Express interface on it. To force it down
to version 1 interface mode, you flash a new video card BIOS into the
card. That fixes it, by reducing the rate to "normal". But again,
I don't consider that to be fixable by a "branding" rule - trying to
stick to one manufacturer of hardware, won't guarantee that problem
won't happen. ATI avoided that problem, by having their cards start
in version 1 mode.

To give an example of where your thinking might go wrong, Nvidia had
a problem between its NF3 chipset and its 6800 family of video cards.
For about a year, users suffered from excessive stuttering in game
play. Nvidia tried to fix it with a driver update, but some users
basically had to give up on that hardware mix, because they could
not get satisfaction. if you used a "branding" rule, and stuck
with the two Nvidia products, you could have been stuck with a mess
like that.

And that is why I don't try to use simple branding rules. Because
they don't work. If you are concerned about a particular product,
check the reviews (like on Newegg), as sometimes a reviewer will
mention one of these messes that happened. That is the best way to
tell - use your search engine. Don't trust the manufacturer to
do the right thing, because you'll be disappointed every time.

I agree with the longness of the video card being an issue. For
some of the high performance cards, they are rather long. For
example, my Sonata case, won't accept a number of them, because
I'd have to hack saw out a piece of metal to make them fit.
These questions are one at a time that I'd like to be answered if you
could? For example, this is question #1.
Ok, now for question #2. I've kinda decided on a cheaper card from
newegg.com. I'm deciding between 2 different cards.
Here they are: the ECS N8400GS2-512DS GeForce 8400 GS 512MB 64-bit GDDR2
PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card. $42.99 from newegg.com
Or the Asus EN8400GS SILENT/HTP/512M GeForce 8400 GS 512MB 64-bit GDDR2 PCI
Express x16 HDCP Ready Video Card. $49.99 from newegg.com
Now I'll point out the couple of differences I've noticed. The interface is
PCI Express 2.0 x16 with the ECS card , PCI Express x16 with the ASUS card,
only. No 2.0 there on the ASUS.

The Asus card supports version 1 and version 2. I consider this versioning
crap to be nothing but a nuisance. There is no evidence I've seen yet,
like an article comparing them, to justify the introduction of version 2.
Considering both of your example cards are 8400GS, they'll be using the
same GPU chip, and consequently, the PCI Express interface features will be
the same, at the hardware level. The video card BIOS can turn off the
version 2 behavior, so the feature set can be controlled that way. But
this Asus web page suggests that both operating modes are supported.

http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1=2&l2=6&l3=551&l4=0&model=2094&modelmenu=1
Next difference; the memory clock on the ASUS is 1000 MHz, and only 800MHz
with the ECS.

There are definite differences between video cards, on memory speed and memory
type. Some cards use inferior memory, when compared to others. When I used
the GPUreview.com web site for example, for one line of video cards, I
was able to see a factor of four difference, between the best and the worst
memories being used. I'm not expert enough on the memory types, to
analyse all of them (for example, I haven't read an article on GDDR5,
to understand how it is so much faster than the previous generation).
At least in your example above, both cards use GDDR2, so it will be
easier to compare them, and conclude that one is 25% faster on memory,
than the other.
Next difference; the Asus is certified for Windows Vista and I don't see
the ECS certified for that.

I wonder what the certification process consists of ? Paying Microsoft a
few bucks for a sticker ? Remember, both cards use the same GPU chip, so
they both have the same feature set. Can the Vista OS smell when Microsoft
hasn't received its kickback ? :)
Packaging; the ASUS comes with a HDTV cable and I don't see that with the
ECS.

Absolutely check the accessories. That is one way I distinguish between
cards. Some have an excellent collection of dongles and cables, for
handling all sorts of situations with the monitors used. It can be an
extra expense to buy the dongles later. (To give an example, one time
I was in a bind, late at night, and paid $50 to a radio/TV store, for
an adapter that was worth about $2. That is why I attach an importance
to getting the adapter in the video card box, so I won't get gouged
like that again.)
One is fanless, the ASUS, the other ECS with a fan.
Which is better for me, do you think?

I might have mentioned before, that fanless cards, sometimes need a
cnmputer case fan mounted next to them, to get enough cooling. I
have two fanless cards, and one of them is unstable in 3D games.
As soon as I put the fan next to it, it was fine.

Just because they made a fanless card, doesn't seem to mean the
cooling is adequate in all cases. You may still need to put an 80mm fan
next to that card. I don't consider that to be a big deal myself,
because I figured out a way to mount the fan. But it requires
an electric drill, hack saw, etc. A DIY solution. You might not
like that. The commercially available fan mounts, aren't that
flexible. Which is why I made my own.
One more thing, I want a card that is AMD compatible. I don't want to go to
AMD's website and try and download the chipset video drivers for the card.
Remember I went to Intel's website, Intel Technologies,
http://support.intel.com and couldn't find the lastest AGP drivers. I don't
want that problem. I mean I went to the website and couldn't even find the
download that I wanted.
Another question, these cards, the AGP slot cards, aren't they outdated a
bit? These new cards are PCI Express, maybe they are compitable with other
chipsets?
Ok, there are about 4 questions I've asked and maybe answering just the
first 2 would be fine. All four questions are bugging me though.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1

Use the drivers that come on the video card CD, to get you started.

I'm sorry I cannot make your end user experience a smooth one -
sometimes you just have to go to the web site, and find the
latest driver. If you don't, you'll have a miserable gaming
experience (like the flickering).

You can pay someone (at your local computer store) to install
the video card, and its drivers. But I think you're clever
enough to find these drivers, or ask someone here to help you.

Remember, there was a time, when I didn't know what the
drivers were, or where to find them, so I needed help too.

Paul
 
A

attilathehun1

You flash a new video card BIOS, that seems radical. Can you explain how to
do that. I mean it's something about downgrading the card so it will work
with, say a 3.0 card SATA will work with a 1.5 card?
Well, if you want to take the time, it's no biggie right now, it's just
interesting to me.
Ok, I'm thinking about going with the cheaper card, the ECS. Would that be
your choise?
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
P

Paul

attilathehun1 said:
You flash a new video card BIOS, that seems radical. Can you explain how to
do that. I mean it's something about downgrading the card so it will work
with, say a 3.0 card SATA will work with a 1.5 card?
Well, if you want to take the time, it's no biggie right now, it's just
interesting to me.
Ok, I'm thinking about going with the cheaper card, the ECS. Would that be
your choise?
Thanks, attilathehun1

You still haven't given me examples of what the computer is for. If you're
only running Microsoft Office on it, the choice is fine. If you're running
the game Oblivion, the choice would be a bad one.

If you look at the chart here, the 8400 GS is down near the bottom.

http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/...tml?p=1590,1616,1636,1588,1607,1606,1605,1584

Paul
 
P

Paul

Paul said:
You still haven't given me examples of what the computer is for. If you're
only running Microsoft Office on it, the choice is fine. If you're running
the game Oblivion, the choice would be a bad one.

If you look at the chart here, the 8400 GS is down near the bottom.

http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/...tml?p=1590,1616,1636,1588,1607,1606,1605,1584


Paul

This is an example of a computer case, with fewer hard drive bays in it.
The advantage of not having the lower drive bays present, is room for a
longer video card.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129035
 

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