Logitech keyboard

[Ace]

I have a MX3000 wireless key board/mouse combo. Both work good

Problem is that the keys are starting to stick, due to loss of
lubricant. It's around 5 years old and out of warranty. I use to, on
other keyboards just take the case off, take the keys off, and
lubricate the slides with WD40 by using a Q-tip.

Can I get away with that trick now?

Thanks

 

[pcbldrNinetyEight]

I have a MX3000 wireless key board/mouse combo. Both work good

Problem is that the keys are starting to stick, due to loss of
lubricant. It's around 5 years old and out of warranty. I use to, on
other keyboards just take the case off, take the keys off, and
lubricate the slides with WD40 by using a Q-tip.

Can I get away with that trick now?

Thanks

Assuming the surface you lubricate is plastic and not metal I would
instead use spray silicone on q-tip. No harm done though if it isn't
plastic.

 

[Bill]

I have a MX3000 wireless key board/mouse combo. Both work good

Problem is that the keys are starting to stick, due to loss of
lubricant. It's around 5 years old and out of warranty. I use to, on
other keyboards just take the case off, take the keys off, and
lubricate the slides with WD40 by using a Q-tip.

Can I get away with that trick now?

Thanks

Never use WD-40 for a lubricant on computer gear. It eventually
dries to a nice sticky grease like consistancy that will attract dirt
and gum up parts. Now you know why your keyboard is sticking.

Use a non-drying light weight silicon based oil.

Bill

 

[Dave]

I have a MX3000 wireless key board/mouse combo. Both work good

Problem is that the keys are starting to stick, due to loss of lubricant.
It's around 5 years old and out of warranty. I use to, on other keyboards
just take the case off, take the keys off, and lubricate the slides with
WD40 by using a Q-tip.

Can I get away with that trick now?

Thanks

5 years old? Wouldn't it be easier to buy a new keyboard. You've gotten
more than your money's worth out of it, for sure. -Dave

 

[Bill]

5 years old? Wouldn't it be easier to buy a new keyboard. You've gotten
more than your money's worth out of it, for sure. -Dave

The date of manufacture on the keyboard I'm typing this on is
12-14-92 Made in USA. I've got some older ones around here somewhere,
but I don't have any working computers that take the old style AT
keyboard plug.

Bill

 

[Dave]

The date of manufacture on the keyboard I'm typing this on is
12-14-92 Made in USA. I've got some older ones around here somewhere,
but I don't have any working computers that take the old style AT
keyboard plug.

Bill

Yeah, I've got some old ones sitting around also. But with decent
name-brand keyboards starting just over ten bucks delivered? I sure as heck
wouldn't worry about trying to lubricate a keyboard, if for some odd reason
I thought it needed lubricating. -Dave

 

[Ed Cregger]

Never use WD-40 for a lubricant on computer gear. It
eventually
dries to a nice sticky grease like consistancy that will
attract dirt
and gum up parts. Now you know why your keyboard is
sticking.

Use a non-drying light weight silicon based oil.

Bill

--------------

I agree with Bill, but I'll go one step further. Never use
WD-40 as a lubricant for anything. It is not formulated to
act as a lubricant at all. It is for freeing up parts that
have corroded or oxidized together. It has very little
lubricating qualities at all.

I also agree with non drying light weight siliconE based
oil. Not silicon. There is a huge difference between the
two.

Lubricant for electric motors, if there is no manufacturer's
recommendation, should be limited to 3-in-1 types of lubes
and then in very, very small and accurately deployed
quantities. Oil can become a fire hazard if misapplied.

Ed Cregger

 

[Bill]

^^^^^^^ Typo sorry.

--------------

I agree with Bill, but I'll go one step further. Never use
WD-40 as a lubricant for anything. It is not formulated to
act as a lubricant at all. It is for freeing up parts that
have corroded or oxidized together. It has very little
lubricating qualities at all.

I also agree with non drying light weight siliconE based
oil. Not silicon. There is a huge difference between the
two.

Lubricant for electric motors, if there is no manufacturer's
recommendation, should be limited to 3-in-1 types of lubes
and then in very, very small and accurately deployed
quantities. Oil can become a fire hazard if misapplied.

And get thrown all over when the motor spins up.

Ed Cregger

Bill

 

[Bill]

Yeah, I've got some old ones sitting around also. But with decent
name-brand keyboards starting just over ten bucks delivered? I sure as heck
wouldn't worry about trying to lubricate a keyboard, if for some odd reason
I thought it needed lubricating. -Dave

Yup, though I find the 'feel' of membrane switches crappy. The
problem I have with cheap modern keyboards is I wear the letters off
the keytops long before the keyboard dies electrically or
mechanically, and I'm not a touch typist. I'm a huntenpecker.

The keytops on this one is still easily legible and if I ever wear
them off the keytops are replacible. Old IBM Model M keyboard.


Bill

 

[Franc Zabkar]

Yup, though I find the 'feel' of membrane switches crappy. The
problem I have with cheap modern keyboards is I wear the letters off
the keytops long before the keyboard dies electrically or
mechanically, and I'm not a touch typist. I'm a huntenpecker.

The keytops on this one is still easily legible and if I ever wear
them off the keytops are replacible. Old IBM Model M keyboard.


Bill

AFAIK your Model M is actually a membrane keyboard but with a tactile
mechanism.

- Franc Zabkar

 

[Bill]

AFAIK your Model M is actually a membrane keyboard but with a tactile
mechanism.

- Franc Zabkar

Which gives it much better feel than the cheap membrane keyboards
IMHO. Plus I can replace the keytops if they wearout; which hasn't
happened yet. I've thrown out cheap keyboards that the only problem
with then was thr C,E, and T keys were no longer readable.

Bill