Is it possible to build a silent computer, without fans at all? What case should I buy?

K

Ken Maltby

Rod Speed said:
Wrong, as always. Have fun explaining how it works fine with no chassis
airflow.


Wrong, as always.


Irrelevant to whether fanless is perfectly possible.


Irrelevant to whether fanless is perfectly possible.


Irrelevant to whether fanless is perfectly possible.


Irrelevant to whether fanless is perfectly possible.


Pig ignorant silly stuff, as always from you.


Perfectly possible to DESIGN one fanless, child.


Perfectly possible to DESIGN one fanless, child.


No might about it, child.


No need to do that, child.


Perfectly possible to leave the covers off, child.


OK, I guess I should explain a little further. One of the
reasons I said "it would not be practical for everyone", is
that I modified my PSU so that it is water cooled.

( A quick Google of "watercooled PSU", the first result=
http://www.quietpcusa.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=8&Product_ID=243&CATID=2
)

Personally I think my modded PSU turned out better
and cheaper than the commercial ones.

A quick glance at =
http://www.webx.dk/oz2cpu/pcmod/water-psu.htm
looks very similar to the mod I did. Except I have
a milling machine and could make more precise
spreader plates, I also used silver solder to connect
the spreader plates to a 1/2 copper pipe. Another
trick is to use Copper Epoxy Putty.

I used regular commercial waterblocks for the CPU,
northbridge, and GPU (a R x850XT PE {R480}) on
an Asus A8N-E with an Athlon 64 X2 4800+, running
Win XP Pro SP2.

My two WD 10K Raptors are mounted on copper
plates that are also silver soldered to copper pipe.
The drive cage is surrounded with sound deadening
material, (Not sure that made any real difference)

I removed the side panel and replaced it with a
window screen made to fit. (The aluminum frame
material, I got from Home Depot, has a concave
shape that fits the "hinge side" of my Antec case.)

This setup has been running, with occasional upgrades,
for over two years, and has had no heat related problems
whatsoever.

Luck;
Ken
 
K

kony

Wrong, as always. Have fun explaining how it works fine with no chassis airflow.

It doesn't work fine, boards die early because of it, unless
a paritcularly low powered CPU such that the generated heat
is similarly low... or towards the same end, the system is
just sitting idle with ACPI/Halt-cooling drastically
reducing current.



Irrelevant to whether fanless is perfectly possible.

Possible given the right combination of parts, AND setup,
yes. Possible in general without special measures, no.
Also given these special measures it will still be likely
the system suffers an early demise from running hot.

Perfectly possible to DESIGN one fanless, child.

Actually none of the existing fanless PSU do well in a
system with no fans, like a board they end up relying on the
passive airflow created by the case fans. The only other
viable alternative is a specially designed, extremely low
power system.

If you only meant "in some wild daydream, spare-no-expense"
sort of way, sure it could be done but until such a product
exists for an average system it's a bit pointless,
especially when the same very low powered system can be
cooled silently with a very low RPM fan without the problems
of parts running hot.



Perfectly possible to leave the covers off, child.

You gotta be kidding. The cure is worse than the disease.
 
K

kony

OK, I guess I should explain a little further. One of the
reasons I said "it would not be practical for everyone", is
that I modified my PSU so that it is water cooled.

( A quick Google of "watercooled PSU", the first result=
http://www.quietpcusa.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=8&Product_ID=243&CATID=2
)

Personally I think my modded PSU turned out better
and cheaper than the commercial ones.

A quick glance at =
http://www.webx.dk/oz2cpu/pcmod/water-psu.htm
looks very similar to the mod I did. Except I have
a milling machine and could make more precise
spreader plates, I also used silver solder to connect
the spreader plates to a 1/2 copper pipe. Another
trick is to use Copper Epoxy Putty.

I used regular commercial waterblocks for the CPU,
northbridge, and GPU (a R x850XT PE {R480}) on
an Asus A8N-E with an Athlon 64 X2 4800+, running
Win XP Pro SP2.

While I applaud your efforts, the system is not old enough
yet to draw any conclusions about how these changes have
effected system lifespan. To be fair, the system does not
need to last the same amount of time for everyone, if
someone prefers one benefit over another (like lower noise
vs lifespan), it is their system and their decision.


My two WD 10K Raptors are mounted on copper
plates that are also silver soldered to copper pipe.
The drive cage is surrounded with sound deadening
material, (Not sure that made any real difference)

It probably did, I find Raptors audible (unless the case is
pretty well lined itself which it couldn't be with the
window screen you describe below.


I removed the side panel and replaced it with a
window screen made to fit. (The aluminum frame
material, I got from Home Depot, has a concave
shape that fits the "hinge side" of my Antec case.)

This setup has been running, with occasional upgrades,
for over two years, and has had no heat related problems
whatsoever.

I suggest you may not be considering all the possible heat
problems, not only "did it crash from instability", but that
it is known many parts will have substantially shorter
lifespans at higher temps, not just those with the water
blocks. You may have (and likely did,) do more to control
temps than the few things you've mentioned, but some other
early failure points like the capacitors or power
semiconductors (except the latter in the PSU) are still
expected.
 
G

GT

Rod Speed said:
Wrong, as always. Have fun explaining how it works fine with no chassis
airflow.

It wouldn't. Can you give us an example of a PC with no airflow? Even my old
486 had an exhaust fan in the PSU, which took air from inside the case.
 
K

Ken Maltby

kony said:
While I applaud your efforts, the system is not old enough
yet to draw any conclusions about how these changes have
effected system lifespan. To be fair, the system does not
need to last the same amount of time for everyone, if
someone prefers one benefit over another (like lower noise
vs lifespan), it is their system and their decision.

Actually in my experience two or three years is very close
to the longest time I can go without upgrading my main
system's mother board. That's not to say that a MB
won't live on in another system.

My experience with water cooling in general and with
PCs specificlly, is that cooling the main componets
reduces the stress on the system as a whole, and has a
very positive effect on longjevity. It is hard to prove
anything with only negative data, without some heat
related faults/failure at some point you can't say what
if any change there is in MTBF. So you are right, in
a way, two years without a fault/failure provides no
useful data to base a proper conclusion, and neither
would ten years.

It probably did, I find Raptors audible (unless the case is
pretty well lined itself which it couldn't be with the
window screen you describe below.




I suggest you may not be considering all the possible heat
problems, not only "did it crash from instability", but that
it is known many parts will have substantially shorter
lifespans at higher temps, not just those with the water
blocks. You may have (and likely did,) do more to control
temps than the few things you've mentioned, but some other
early failure points like the capacitors or power
semiconductors (except the latter in the PSU) are still
expected.

It would be highly unlikely that any part on my MB could
fail and that failure go undetected on my system. I run a
number routine operations that stress the system, including
some overnight complex video encoding, and others that
run at 100% on both processors.

Heat failures of capacitors require extreme external temp.
unless they have improperly formulated electrolyte, they
can't generate enough heat internally, (when operated within
specifications) to damage themselves. That is over the entire
rated MTBF.

The voltage regulator chips are a known potential problem
and they too can be water cooled:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=241&products_id=4617
or
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=241&products_id=4519

If I were to want to close up/seal my system, so that there
were not the natural movement of air that exists with my
current setup, I might add one of those to my circuit. As it
is, the chips appear to be running no hotter than I would
expect, well within the normal thermal specs for such
chips.

But, you have got me wondering what the actual temp.
is off those chips, so I'll attach a thermal sensor and get
some readings.

OK, pressing the probe against the base of the heat
sink over the regulator chips, about 4min. after the
reading stabilized, it was 32.2 -32.4 Centigrade and
appears to be holding in that range. (This is a pretty
cheap probe and the fluctuations are probably within
its error range.) This is with no stress on the system,
I'll have to remember to check again after an over-
night encode, but I doubt it will raise over 70c to
bring it near the high end of these chips operating
temp. range. Operating these chips at <35c should
actually extend their lifetime considerably.

Luck;
Ken
 
K

kony

Actually in my experience two or three years is very close
to the longest time I can go without upgrading my main
system's mother board. That's not to say that a MB
won't live on in another system.

I'm the same, wouldn't use one for more than a couple years
until it fills a secondary role (when such a role/system
needs upgraded, which is even less frequently), or someone
calls and wants a system dirt cheap. I'm always surprised
how many people don't care about performance, they just want
something non-junk that will last as long as possible.


My experience with water cooling in general and with
PCs specificlly, is that cooling the main componets
reduces the stress on the system as a whole, and has a
very positive effect on longjevity.

Removing most of the major sources of heat will definitely
help "some" because the resulting delta - T between those
parts still passively cooled and the chassis air is higher.
Even so, that is only initially, soon enough the local temps
around componets will be hotter unless you had a quite
strong room air currents from a fan, etc.


It is hard to prove
anything with only negative data, without some heat
related faults/failure at some point you can't say what
if any change there is in MTBF. So you are right, in
a way, two years without a fault/failure provides no
useful data to base a proper conclusion, and neither
would ten years.

We could speculate about some things like the capacitors,
but beyond that it will help to define what temp you want to
allow on parts, I mean the discrete components not wearing
water blocks, since those things wearing the blocks won't be
an issue presuming it is set up well.



It would be highly unlikely that any part on my MB could
fail and that failure go undetected on my system. I run a
number routine operations that stress the system, including
some overnight complex video encoding, and others that
run at 100% on both processors.

Heat failures of capacitors require extreme external temp.
unless they have improperly formulated electrolyte, they
can't generate enough heat internally, (when operated within
specifications) to damage themselves. That is over the entire
rated MTBF.

Untrue. Capacitors not only can, but do create enough heat
internally to reduce their lifespan in many of the power
regulation subcircuits. They need not vent in a few months
for this to be the case, nor defective electrolyte in any
way. A defective cap certainly has a substantially higher
chance of failure, but many of the caps people claim as
"defective" don't even have the instable electrolyte, they
merely are cheap caps with higher ESR (relative to good
ultra low ESR caps, they may still qualify as low ESR in the
grand scheme of things) and thus heat up more. OST caps are
one such example, you might find them in lower current
subcircuits on some major brand motherboards, where they
have no problem, but if/when some models are used in higher
ripple subcircuits they show their weakness relative to
better caps.

I can do pretty well predicting if a board will have an
early cap failure merely by touch-testing the capacitors
while it's running at the expected average load. Many of
the more exotic caps today don't get very hot, but this is
also in the context of active (fan) cooling the chassis and
blow-by from the CPU 'sink.


The voltage regulator chips are a known potential problem
and they too can be water cooled:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=241&products_id=4617
or
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=241&products_id=4519

If I were to want to close up/seal my system, so that there
were not the natural movement of air that exists with my
current setup, I might add one of those to my circuit. As it
is, the chips appear to be running no hotter than I would
expect, well within the normal thermal specs for such
chips.

Define "normal thermal specs". It is never a good idea to
try to run parts near their max specs, if your regulators
are even up to 100C, well below the typical spec, you may
find they have a fairly short lifespan.



But, you have got me wondering what the actual temp.
is off those chips, so I'll attach a thermal sensor and get
some readings.

Unfortunately you can't get a direct reading except from the
epoxy casing, maybe the tab if exposed enough, but even then
it can be useful to have an epoxy temp as the epoxy tends to
break down at elevated temp too, which can cause whole part
failure.



OK, pressing the probe against the base of the heat
sink over the regulator chips, about 4min. after the
reading stabilized, it was 32.2 -32.4 Centigrade and
appears to be holding in that range. (This is a pretty
cheap probe and the fluctuations are probably within
its error range.)

There is no way a measurement of their stock 'sink base will
be remotely close to the die temp of the FETs under it. We
might as well assume they're 50C hotter, as they probably
are. If you can get a very good thermal junction to their
epoxy tops, and the respective manufacturer is forthcoming
about the thermals of that epoxy, you then only need to
calculate out what percentage of heat is being shed through
this less conductive secondary path, since the majority is
sunk into the copper on the board.

Even so, "IF" the 'sink is making reasonably good contact
with the FETs, it should help in your system, hopefully
enough. IMO you are more likely to have capacitor than FET
issues as the system ages.


This is with no stress on the system,
I'll have to remember to check again after an over-
night encode, but I doubt it will raise over 70c to
bring it near the high end of these chips operating
temp. range. Operating these chips at <35c should
actually extend their lifetime considerably.


It's almost guaranteed they're never below 50C die, probably
even the epoxy is at 50C or more under load.
 
K

Ken Maltby

kony said:
Untrue. Capacitors not only can, but do create enough heat
internally to reduce their lifespan in many of the power
regulation subcircuits. They need not vent in a few months
for this to be the case, nor defective electrolyte in any
way. A defective cap certainly has a substantially higher
chance of failure, but many of the caps people claim as
"defective" don't even have the instable electrolyte, they
merely are cheap caps with higher ESR (relative to good
ultra low ESR caps, they may still qualify as low ESR in the
grand scheme of things) and thus heat up more. OST caps are
one such example, you might find them in lower current
subcircuits on some major brand motherboards, where they
have no problem, but if/when some models are used in higher
ripple subcircuits they show their weakness relative to
better caps.

You seem to be talking about using a part under conditions
that exccede it's rated specifications. An accepted design
practice:
"For an approximation, start by making sure the RMS current
rating of the capacitor is at least 75% of the max load current
(50% if the ambient will not exceed 40 degC). This is only to
help in sizing, this will often give a minimum value if cross
referenced with the required voltage rating. Then assume at an
instantaneous load increase that the capacitor will initially supply
all the current. You will have to estimate the response time of
the source to supply the input current needed, that is the time
when the voltage will stop dipping. Then just use i=Cdv/dt to
size the cap for a certain voltage drop."

Give this a try also:
http://www.cde.com/applets/CDEspiceApplet/CD_Applet_Intro.html

As you can see here ESR rating is not the whole issue:
http://www.sbelectronics.com/application_notes/current_application_notes.htm



I can do pretty well predicting if a board will have an
early cap failure merely by touch-testing the capacitors
while it's running at the expected average load. Many of
the more exotic caps today don't get very hot, but this is
also in the context of active (fan) cooling the chassis and
blow-by from the CPU 'sink.

Hot or not, if used within design requirements that take the
parts rated performance factors into account, only defective
parts can thermally damage themselfs. Now if you are saying
that some manufactures might use less than the best engineering
design practices, I won't argue that point. I buy MB that I
believe to be well engineered, primarily "Asus".


Define "normal thermal specs". It is never a good idea to
try to run parts near their max specs, if your regulators
are even up to 100C, well below the typical spec, you may
find they have a fairly short lifespan.

<35c, as I just measured. A definition of "normal thermal
specs", as in my statement "well within the normal thermal
specs" would not indicate operation "near their max specs",
but somewhere near the middle of the range.
Unfortunately you can't get a direct reading except from the
epoxy casing, maybe the tab if exposed enough, but even then
it can be useful to have an epoxy temp as the epoxy tends to
break down at elevated temp too, which can cause whole part
failure.





There is no way a measurement of their stock 'sink base will
be remotely close to the die temp of the FETs under it. We
might as well assume they're 50C hotter, as they probably
are.


Total BS, there is a thermal gradient that is factored into the
design and selection of the heatsink, but it is nowhere near 50c.

If you can get a very good thermal junction to their
epoxy tops, and the respective manufacturer is forthcoming
about the thermals of that epoxy, you then only need to
calculate out what percentage of heat is being shed through
this less conductive secondary path, since the majority is
sunk into the copper on the board.

Would that be the same copper that has a large number of
connections to the near by water cooled CPU?

Even so, "IF" the 'sink is making reasonably good contact
with the FETs, it should help in your system, hopefully
enough. IMO you are more likely to have capacitor than FET
issues as the system ages.





It's almost guaranteed they're never below 50C die, probably
even the epoxy is at 50C or more under load.

I very much doubt that they would be operating above 50%
of their thermal rating even under "full load".

The question was in regard to the "danger" to these chips in
a fanless environment. The temp. readings off the heatsink
are not elevated enough above the MB die temp (32c) or the
CPU die temp (30c) to indicate impending doom. In fact air
coming off the CPU heatsink, in an air cooled system, would
be at a much higher temp. and would possibly raise the
heatsink's temp. (Which might not impact the amount of heat
it could extract.)

Luck;
Ken
 
A

Ashton Crusher

Hello!
Is it possible to build a silent computer, without fans at all? What
case should I buy?
Best regards,
Dima
+790350938

I just built a PC using a Intel Core Duo E6300 and ATI1900 video
board. I used an ANTEC Sonata II case. The case has one large fan
in back with a switch for low med hi fan speeds. I run it on low. I
bought a cheap CPU cooler (I think it was a MasterCool) and put an
adjustable speed gizmo on it's fan and have it set on the lowest
setting. The Case comes with a 450 watt power supply with two fans.
One is off unless the heat gets too high (hasn't happened yet) and the
other's speed is controlled by the temp of the power supply - so far
it's running at a very low speed. Basically I can't hear anything but
the Hard Drive. The CPU and Board temp is running about 38 degrees C.
I think the HD runs about 42. To go fanless I think you'd need either
a very low performance system or an expensive non-fan liquid cooling
system of some sort.
 
G

GT

Ashton Crusher said:
I just built a PC using a Intel Core Duo E6300 and ATI1900 video
board. I used an ANTEC Sonata II case. The case has one large fan
in back with a switch for low med hi fan speeds. I run it on low. I
bought a cheap CPU cooler (I think it was a MasterCool) and put an
adjustable speed gizmo on it's fan and have it set on the lowest
setting. The Case comes with a 450 watt power supply with two fans.
One is off unless the heat gets too high (hasn't happened yet) and the
other's speed is controlled by the temp of the power supply - so far
it's running at a very low speed. Basically I can't hear anything but
the Hard Drive. The CPU and Board temp is running about 38 degrees C.
I think the HD runs about 42.

Are you sure you are reading the correct figures. I haven't worked with core
duo CPUs, but a CPU temperature of 38 degrees with a cheap cooler and
minimum fan settings sounds very low to me. Either this is not the CPU
temperature, or these chips really do run cool.
 
K

Ken Maltby

Ashton Crusher said:
I just built a PC using a Intel Core Duo E6300 and ATI1900 video
board. I used an ANTEC Sonata II case. The case has one large fan
in back with a switch for low med hi fan speeds. I run it on low. I
bought a cheap CPU cooler (I think it was a MasterCool) and put an
adjustable speed gizmo on it's fan and have it set on the lowest
setting. The Case comes with a 450 watt power supply with two fans.
One is off unless the heat gets too high (hasn't happened yet) and the
other's speed is controlled by the temp of the power supply - so far
it's running at a very low speed. Basically I can't hear anything but
the Hard Drive. The CPU and Board temp is running about 38 degrees C.
I think the HD runs about 42. To go fanless I think you'd need either
a very low performance system or an expensive non-fan liquid cooling
system of some sort.

I am using a Sonata II as a HTPC connected to a Widescreen HD
Projector, in my living room. I find it to be very quiet, as well.

Are you using the air duct? If so how, with fans or without?

I recently removed the duct altogether, and haven't had any
noticeable impact, sound wise or performance.

Love that Piano Black finish.

Luck;
Ken
 
K

kony

You seem to be talking about using a part under conditions
that exccede it's rated specifications.

That's what any motherboard does, since your typical caps
are rated for around 3000 hours which is only a few months.
Since they run cooling than the contextual specs we can try
to project the resultant lifespan increase but the margin of
error becomes far too large to rely on.


An accepted design
practice:
"For an approximation, start by making sure the RMS current
rating of the capacitor is at least 75% of the max load current
(50% if the ambient will not exceed 40 degC). This is only to
help in sizing, this will often give a minimum value if cross
referenced with the required voltage rating. Then assume at an
instantaneous load increase that the capacitor will initially supply
all the current. You will have to estimate the response time of
the source to supply the input current needed, that is the time
when the voltage will stop dipping. Then just use i=Cdv/dt to
size the cap for a certain voltage drop."

It's fairly pointless to idealize cap selection then assume
this is what actually applies on motherboard design. In the
vast majority of cases, cost and board real-estate is what
applies.

Further, I don't see any suggestion that you have actually
determined the particular caps' RMS current rating IS at
least 75% of the max load current. I'm not suggesting it
isn't, but someone's recommendation is proof more than there
are people that AREN'T doing this, than anything else.



Sure, ESR and dissipation factor, both quite applicable to
your situation with the passively cooled system.


Hot or not, if used within design requirements that take the
parts rated performance factors into account, only defective
parts can thermally damage themselfs.

You are misunderstanding. Caps do wear out, it's not
necessarily classified as "damage" for the cap to wear out,
it's expected. Specs show lifetimes only months long, low
single-digit thousands of hours.

The way a board manages to run for years instead is that the
board manufacturer fudges, they're anticipating worst case
with stock speed, and temps, and still guessing since they
can't use the same caps available 10+ years ago to use any
accumlated data... if they had accumulated any in the first
place rather than a more direct, boards-fail-caps-bad RMA
dept. observation.



Now if you are saying
that some manufactures might use less than the best engineering
design practices, I won't argue that point. I buy MB that I
believe to be well engineered, primarily "Asus".

They're better than average, even one of my favored brands,
but they are not choosing components and design for a target
use of a passive(ly cooled) system.

<35c, as I just measured. A definition of "normal thermal
specs", as in my statement "well within the normal thermal
specs" would not indicate operation "near their max specs",
but somewhere near the middle of the range.

You are not measuring appropriately. Again, there is no
chance your FET dies are under 50C at load. Measuring the
base of a questionably (even good, for that matter) bonded
heatsink on the top of a FET epoxy case is just not going to
generate useful data.


Total BS, there is a thermal gradient that is factored into the
design and selection of the heatsink, but it is nowhere near 50c.

Actually that's pretty much nonsense, you're idealizing
instead of looking at what they've done. Asus' design is
not particularly unique, then they put on a heatsink that
merely fits in the space available. It may help some, or
it might even cause *harm* in some situations because it is
not cooling by an efficient thermal path through epoxy, but
it is blocking airflow (even passive radiation) away from
the copper on the board to some significant extent.

You want to cite engineering standards then ignore it is
completely invalid to guess that this heatsink was
implemented by some standard and then guess based on the
heatsink temp, that you know the FET die itself is under
50C.

Didn't you realize it may be over 50C even if the epoxy
itself were 35C? You now measure across even more material,
with an interface known to be a variable (multiple fet
placement and solder bath techniques are not good enough to
ensure multiple parts epoxy casings are on an exact parallel
plane, let alone the epoxy machined flat on top, let along
an effective transfer material between 'sink and Fet.

If you want most effective heat transfer from FET to a
'sink, you need to chop the heatsink into pieces, lap the
top of the Fet epoxy casing, epoxy the heatsink onto it, and
even then, you still can't measure a 35C heatsink and assume
the die is below 50C.

The real question isn't whether it's below 50C though, it's
what temp they are actually running at, except the primary
problem is still most likely the capacitors.


Would that be the same copper that has a large number of
connections to the near by water cooled CPU?

No, not to a significant enough extent. You can't extend a
thin copper heatsink indefinitely and have any useful
benefit, it would need be thicker immediately under the FET.

On a board designed to be passive, it would be a physically
larger board, and likely the FETs back to old TO220 style
with a perpendicular heatsink. That is unless a
substantially lower current CPU were used/allowed.

I very much doubt that they would be operating above 50%
of their thermal rating even under "full load".

That would be an arbitrary thing to doubt, not even
considering that boads are not designed for idealized specs
targeted to passive cooling, rather to what they can get
away with at high density, small boards, lower cost, and
actively cooled chassis use.


The question was in regard to the "danger" to these chips in
a fanless environment. The temp. readings off the heatsink
are not elevated enough above the MB die temp (32c) or the
CPU die temp (30c) to indicate impending doom.

False, you have not indicated to an even remotely reasonable
extent that you can estimate the FET die from what reading
you have taken. You can cite a theory about what someone
might be able to do with an idealized design and
manufacturing, but that doesn't transcend actual meaurements
and actual data from FET and board manufacturer to resolve
the expected FET die temp.

Frankly it would be easier to just ask Asus if their board
warranty is valid with zero fans in a system. At least
then, if they would warranty it and you can hold them to
their word, you would have resolution if it had failed in
that period of time.

In fact air
coming off the CPU heatsink, in an air cooled system, would
be at a much higher temp. and would possibly raise the
heatsink's temp. (Which might not impact the amount of heat
it could extract.)

False. Airflow removes heat at a faster rate, any local
areas will be cooler.

You act as though you're the first person to have tried
passive cooling. I wasn't just theorizing about elevated
temps, I ALWAYS set up a system on a bench and check temps
before building with it. That means no case airflow of
course, and with modern systems having CPU fan control it
also means setting that to see what the CPU temp will be
without a fan, as well as a passive chipset, PSU that is not
as it is in a case right above the board, and even then far
better convection without any chassis.

Your system is running hotter than you realize, it's almost
strange that you can't accept that parts that create heat
will be significantly hotter if their heatsinking isn't as
effective which it obviously can't be without the airflow
intended by the designer.
 
R

Rod Speed

It doesn't work fine,

Yes it does.
boards die early because of it,

Have fun explaining how come none of mine have with no chassis airflow.
unless a paritcularly low powered CPU such that the generated heat is similarly low...

Have fun explaining how come none of mine qualify on that.
or towards the same end, the system is just sitting idle
with ACPI/Halt-cooling drastically reducing current.

Have fun explaining how come none of mine qualify on that.
Possible given the right combination of parts, AND setup, yes.

I havent done a thing setup wise.
Possible in general without special measures, no.

Have fun explaining how come none of mine have failed with no chassis airflow.
Also given these special measures it will still be likely
the system suffers an early demise from running hot.

Have fun explaining how come none of mine have failed with no chassis airflow.
Actually none of the existing fanless PSU do well in a system with no fans,

Wrong, as always.
like a board they end up relying on the passive airflow created by the case fans.

Wrong with the ones designed to be used in fanless systems.

Perfectly possible with the average RUNNING power use with most modern systems.
The only other viable alternative is a specially designed, extremely low power system.

Wrong, as always.
If you only meant "in some wild daydream, spare-no-expense" sort of way,
Nope.

sure it could be done but until such a product exists for an average system

They do.
it's a bit pointless,

Not if you want a silent system it aint.
especially when the same very low powered system can be cooled silently
with a very low RPM fan without the problems of parts running hot.

No fans means no possibility of fan failure.
You gotta be kidding.
Nope.

The cure is worse than the disease.

Have fun explaining how come none of mine have failed when used that way.

Rule of Holes, child. When you are in one, STOP DIGGING.
 
K

kony

Yes it does.


Have fun explaining how come none of mine have with no chassis airflow.


It's real simple Rod - any board did run up until the point
it failed prematurely. Only recently have we had CPUs that
use so much current, the systems aren't even through 1/3rd
of their expected lifespan yet.
 
R

Rod Speed

It's real simple Rod -

We'll see...
any board did run up until the point it failed prematurely.

Must be one of those rocket scientist pathetic excuses for bullshit artists.

Wota pity for you that none of mine that have no chassis airflow have ever failed,
and that they have mostly been running fine like that for quite a few years now.
Only recently have we had CPUs that use so much current, the
systems aren't even through 1/3rd of their expected lifespan yet.

The cpus arent relevant when they have a cpu fan and no chassis airflow
because you have no covers installed, you pathetic excuse for a bullshit artist.
 
K

kony

The cpus arent relevant when they have a cpu fan and no chassis airflow
because you have no covers installed, you pathetic excuse for a bullshit artist.


They don't have a fan in the described scenario, and it is
quite relevant what CPU it is, what current it uses as that
does effect heat produced on the motherboard power
regulation subcircuit, including whether that CPU is idle or
at some load level.
 
K

Ken Maltby

kony said:
They don't have a fan in the described scenario, and it is
quite relevant what CPU it is, what current it uses as that
does effect heat produced on the motherboard power
regulation subcircuit, including whether that CPU is idle or
at some load level.

You and Rod can continue on of course, but even if the
replacement of the Reg. chips heatsink, by a Reg. chip
waterblock; were required, the fanless water-cooled PC
is quite viable, if less than practical or economical for most.

Luck;
Ken
 
R

Rod Speed

They don't have a fan in the described scenario,

Never ever could bullshit its way out of a wet paper bag.

We had moved on to your stupid pig ignorant claims about
there needing to be chassis airflow to avoid premature failure.
and it is quite relevant what CPU it is, what current it uses as that
does effect heat produced on the motherboard power regulation
subcircuit, including whether that CPU is idle or at some load level.

YOU made that stupid pig ignorant claim that chassis airflow
is essential for ALL normal systems to prevent premature failure.

Wrong.
 
K

kony

You and Rod can continue on of course, but even if the
replacement of the Reg. chips heatsink, by a Reg. chip
waterblock; were required, the fanless water-cooled PC
is quite viable, if less than practical or economical for most.

Luck;
Ken


Again this has not been established, unless it's conceded
that you have no reasonable expectation it will have a
normal lifespan.

Straight to the point, it will run significantly hotter
among parts known to have shorter lifespans from running
hot. So you have water block cooled some parts, but those
are not the parts that typically fail sooner from heat
relatied stresses.

You can continue to assume the temp is ok, but nevertheless
the fact remains that it does degrade the parts faster at
the inevitably higher temp.

You might find this an acceptable tradeoff, but denial does
not diminish that it is a tradeoff.
 

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments. After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.

Ask a Question

Top