How to Keep a Noisy LinkSys Gigabit Switch Quiet?

J

jaykchan

The problem is not the size, it is the thickness of the fan. There are
many 60mm fans that are in 20mm or 25mm thickness. But very few are
15mm thick, and those are the expensive kind.

Moreover, the power consumption is also a problem because most requires
more than what the existing fan use, and I want to avoid any trouble by
making sure that the replacement fan is equal to or less than what the
existing fan uses. This further reduces the available pool of 60mm
fans.

I cannot use a 50mm fan because there is no mounting holes for it.

I ordered a $17 Papst quiet 60mm fan last night. It matches all the
requirements. I will know how it goes when I receive it.

BTW, the shipping costs as much as half of the cost of the fan itself.
Oh well...

Jay Chan
 
S

SRay69

If there is no space, you're not getting good airflow. There was
supposed to be space above the fan, between it and the casing... your
pictures cannot make it clear whether there is any space.

As long as there is a place for air to come from under the fan and a
place for it to go above the fan, then you're getting airflow. I
feel about the same dissipation blowing out as when the smaller and
much higher RPM fan was in it. It's working great. If Chan wants to
do it your way, great. I just hope he has the kind of time you do.
Regardless, the sweeping idea that "wouldn't recommend anything
smaller since airflow would be compromised" is quite premature. On
the contrary, just about any fan you put in there is going to make
marginal difference (compared to a different fan) until you devise a
method to remove that heat from the casing itself rather than just
recirculate it inside. Otherwise it's not a matter of trying to get
same flow rate, only a matter of keeping device cool enough. If
they'd used a casing with more ventilation holes it's quite possible
an entirely passive heatsink couldn've been used instead, as most
modern consumer-level switches/routers/etc don't have one.

I think YOU'RE premature for posting here since you haven't even
replaced one of these. The point of it was to reduce the noise to a
whisper while giving at least the same heat dissipation as the
original fan and I've done that. Who knows if using a slower version
of same original-size fan would be enough to keep the box from
overheating. I wanted to get this right the first time and move on.
Replacing the fan with the same flow rate fan, but larger, has worked
perfectly. It's been running for a week now with no problems.

I don't have time to sit and try different fans to cool this thing in
the best possible way. I just wanted to get rid of the irrating
noise without it overheating, in the least possible time, just like
most other buyers of this unit.

And by the way, I didn't solder the my wires together at all. There
is no strain at all on the wires in this thing, so simply twisting
them together well and using some black electrical or rubber tape
does the trick. I don't think they'll be coming lose until this
thing is recycled or in a landfill.

I'm a perfectionist too, but only to a point. I've learned where to
draw the line and not to f-around so much. I've definitely spent way
more time posting here than it took to ever fix this LinkSys switch
issue. It's not a big enough deal to continue the conversation.
 
K

kony

On 10 Mar 2005 08:37:08 -0500,
supposed to be space above the fan, between it and the casing... your
pictures cannot make it clear whether there is any space.

As long as there is a place for air to come from under the fan and a
place for it to go above the fan, then you're getting airflow. I
feel about the same dissipation blowing out as when the smaller and
much higher RPM fan was in it. It's working great. If Chan wants to
do it your way, great. I just hope he has the kind of time you do.

It takes a lot of time to do it? Hardly, refitting new fans
is a fairly routine thing though usually on old equipment
rather than new.

smaller since airflow would be compromised" is quite premature. On
the contrary, just about any fan you put in there is going to make
marginal difference (compared to a different fan) until you devise a
method to remove that heat from the casing itself rather than just
recirculate it inside. Otherwise it's not a matter of trying to get
same flow rate, only a matter of keeping device cool enough. If
they'd used a casing with more ventilation holes it's quite possible
an entirely passive heatsink couldn've been used instead, as most
modern consumer-level switches/routers/etc don't have one.

I think YOU'RE premature for posting here since you haven't even
replaced one of these.

Sure, I've never seen a fan before let alone a device that
uses them, LOL. Pull head out of arse and look around, the
only thing unusual about this particular fan swap was
figuring out how to get the plastic case open.

The point of it was to reduce the noise to a
whisper while giving at least the same heat dissipation as the
original fan and I've done that.

Oh? Did you take temp measurements? Do you know the
thermal margins of the chip so you'd even know if trying to
match the original spec is important, rather than trying ot
match the actual needs of the device? This isn't a knock
against you as much as the original engineers of the device
(or the penny-pinchers who changed the design) so it ended
up sub-optimal to begin with.

Who knows if using a slower version
of same original-size fan would be enough to keep the box from
overheating.

I do but that's beside the point?
They don't have a nuclear fusion reactor in there, as I
wrote previously it should be cool enough with only a good
heatsink as plenty of other brands have demonstrated.

I wanted to get this right the first time and move on.
Replacing the fan with the same flow rate fan, but larger, has worked
perfectly. It's been running for a week now with no problems.

You did fine for the first time. Having been dealing with
different size fans for so long that I can't even remember
where they all are (brand new), I have a different
perspective. What you did do right which many do wrong is
choosing a thicker fan. 10mm fans are too thin for
longevity due to a decent dual bearing (or long sleeve)
practically requiring 12-15mm thickness.

I don't have time to sit and try different fans to cool this thing in
the best possible way. I just wanted to get rid of the irrating
noise without it overheating, in the least possible time, just like
most other buyers of this unit.

I can appreciate that, and yet I was also mentioning my
experiences with this... there's more than one way to get
the job done and I've done it several ways on different
equipment. Happen to have an old Lantronix unit just thrown
onto the to-do pile that needs one replaced too.

If nothing else we can see that there are multiple choices
and it hurts nothing to discuss them all.

And by the way, I didn't solder the my wires together at all. There
is no strain at all on the wires in this thing, so simply twisting
them together well and using some black electrical or rubber tape
does the trick. I don't think they'll be coming lose until this
thing is recycled or in a landfill.


Maybe not though electrical tape has a way of degrading and
leeching black goo over time, especially in a warmer
environment. I'd always advise soldering and heatshrinking
or crimping the wires, else putting a mating connector on
each which is fine if you happen to have the connectors but
possibly excessive if not.
I'm a perfectionist too, but only to a point. I've learned where to
draw the line and not to f-around so much. I've definitely spent way
more time posting here than it took to ever fix this LinkSys switch
issue. It's not a big enough deal to continue the conversation.

Ok. I may've been too critical with my comments, but one of
the points might've been that it's not so necessary to try
and match the original fan's flow rate. In these types of
applications a tiny bit of airflow goes a long way.
 
T

timcuculic

FYI

newegg.com has a Panasonic Panaflo 60 x 15mm Cooling Fan, Model
"FBA06T12L" (Noise Level: 24dBA) for 11.98 including shipping.

Power consumption is 0.13 Amps @ 12 V (1.56W) though. Might be a bit
high.
 
K

kony

On Sat, 02 Apr 2005 01:44:33 +0000,
FYI

newegg.com has a Panasonic Panaflo 60 x 15mm Cooling Fan, Model
"FBA06T12L" (Noise Level: 24dBA) for 11.98 including shipping.

Power consumption is 0.13 Amps @ 12 V (1.56W) though. Might be a bit
high.

That's still quiter than most, it would be a good choice
with a resistor or other method of RPM reduction added.
 
J

jaykchan

newegg.com has a Panasonic Panaflo 60 x 15mm Cooling Fan, Model
"FBA06T12L" (Noise Level: 24dBA) for 11.98 including shipping.

Power consumption is 0.13 Amps @ 12 V (1.56W) though. Might be a bit
high.

That dimension is the same as the expensive $19.x Panasonic Panaflo
that I have bought. But is power consumption is higher than what the
original 40mm fan is speced for. Therefore, I am very hesistant to
order that one.

But your info may become useful for someone who wants the same
dimension fan, and don't mind the higher power consumption.

Jay Chan
 
J

jaykchan

Just want to let you know that I finally get the LinkSys Gigabit switch
to quiet enough by doing exactly as what you have done:
- Replace the noisy 40mm fan with a quiet 60mm fan.
- Undervolt the fan with a power resistor.

I believe the noise from the original setting was coming from two
sources:
- Primarily the noise was from the noisy 40mm fan.
It was a noisy beast when I ran it without any
enclosure.
- Secondarily the noise was from the air rushing
through the small vent holes on the plastic case
right on top of the fan. When I put my finger over
other part of the case, the noise didn't reduce.
When I put my finger over the vent holes, the noise
was significantly reduced.
The total of these two sources of noises combined was greater than any
one of the noise above.

The very quiet Panasonic Panaflo 60mm fan that I use now was virtually
silent when I ran it without any enclosure. This means using this fan
eliminates the primary source of noise mentioned above. Unfortunately,
this oversized fan produces so much more air flow than the 40mm fan
that it generates a lot more air rushing through the vent holes that it
actually generates more secondary noise than what the 40mm fan
generated. This explains the reason why I still heard noise after I
have just replace the noisy 40mm fan with the quiet 60mm fan. I can
tell just by putting my hand over the 60mm fan and the 40mm fan that
the 60mm fan can produce much more air flow than the 40mm fan. This
means I need to find a way to reduce the secondary noise.

Luckily, you mentioned the use of power resistor to reduce the speed of
the fan to further reduce the noise. I follow your advice and add a
"100 ohm 2W 5% carbon composite" power resistor inline with the fan.
Now the gigabit switch is much more quiet -- to the point that I cannot
hear the noise if I stay 5-ft away. Because of the fact that I put the
gigabit switch inside a closet, this means I cannot hear the noise if I
close the door of the closet. Problem solved!

I find that even after I have cut down the speed of the 60mm fan, I
still can feel (using my hand) that it is generating more air flow than
the 40mm fan can in full speed. This means I could have reduced the
speed even further to cut down the noise to the minimum. I will let
other people to try this. For now, I am more than happy of the result,
and will not change a thing.

Thanks for the great practical advice that you have provided. Without
those advices, I probably still leave the gigabit switch in the box.

Jay Chan
 
K

kony

Just want to let you know that I finally get the LinkSys Gigabit switch
to quiet enough by doing exactly as what you have done:
- Replace the noisy 40mm fan with a quiet 60mm fan.
- Undervolt the fan with a power resistor.

"100 ohm 2W 5% carbon composite" power resistor inline with the fan.

I find that even after I have cut down the speed of the 60mm fan, I
still can feel (using my hand) that it is generating more air flow than
the 40mm fan can in full speed. This means I could have reduced the
speed even further to cut down the noise to the minimum. I will let
other people to try this. For now, I am more than happy of the result,
and will not change a thing.

Thanks for the great practical advice that you have provided. Without
those advices, I probably still leave the gigabit switch in the box.

Jay Chan

Good to hear it worked out well for you. While it's likely
you could reduce the fan speed a little further, beyond a
certain point there might be the issue of minimal spin-up
voltage. That is, the fan needs a certain voltage to begin
spinning from a complete stop at power on, and that voltage
could easily result in the fan still having more flow than a
smaller fan would... those 40mm fans really don't move much
air at all, I suspect most 60mm fans at their absolute
minimum voltage would do as well.

Personally I try to avoid above 120 Ohms when unsure,
instead settling for a series of diodes which won't drop the
current like a resistor would. It's much more tedious to
determine numbers of diodes to use though, so I seldom
recommend that method. For my own use I have a 12 position
switch which additively puts more diodes in series to
determine optimal values for a fan, but without such an easy
method it wouldn't be practical except for someone wanting
the ultimate control over fan speed without a larger
controller assembly.

Most often it isn't necessary to get a fan THAT near it's
lowest-possible voltage, especially with smaller fans. I
have a few 6 1/2" monsters that need it a lot more than "PC"
fans but those monster fans have their own sets of issues,
actually have a linear regulator inside to set same RPM from
a variety of input voltages, a circuit that must be
circumvented to even begin to use external RPM control
(except when manufacturered with such a feature).
 
J

jaykchan

Personally I try to avoid above 120 Ohms when unsure,
instead settling for a series of diodes which won't drop the
current like a resistor would. It's much more tedious to
determine numbers of diodes to use though, so I seldom
recommend that method. For my own use I have a 12 position
switch which additively puts more diodes in series to
determine optimal values for a fan, but without such an easy
method it wouldn't be practical except for someone wanting
the ultimate control over fan speed without a larger
controller assembly.

Thanks for suggesting the use of a 12-position switch. Although I don't
need to use anything like this at this moment, I may need it when I
need to build a HTPC that needs to be very quiet. What's the keywords
to search for a 12-position switch anyway?
Most often it isn't necessary to get a fan THAT near it's
lowest-possible voltage, especially with smaller fans.

You are right. In my case, I have lowered the speed of the 60mm fan
enough that I cannot hear its noise from 4-to-5-ft away (in a very
quiet environment). This is good enough even though I could have
reduced the noise even further.

Jay Chan
 
K

kony

Thanks for suggesting the use of a 12-position switch. Although I don't
need to use anything like this at this moment, I may need it when I
need to build a HTPC that needs to be very quiet. What's the keywords
to search for a 12-position switch anyway?

Well "12 position" might work, but generally they're listed
by number of poles and throws, so a 12 position switch would
be a Single Pole, 12 throw, "SP12T" or 1P12T. It may be
easier to just browse through an online store's categories
though to get to them. The aforementioned electronics
oriented suppliers like Mouser, Digikey, Newark, Allied,
etc, etc, will likely have a few alternatives.

The one I used was here,
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=700425&item=RS-117&type=store
but i wasn't being picky at the time, since i had no
intentions of mounting the switch anywhere or using it for
more than sizing up fan diodes. Just about any switch can
handle the few hundred mA from a fan so I suggest buying
whatever's available at a good price when you next need
"other" things from same store... I'd never buy individual
components like this except in an emergency, shipping and
minimum order fees will get quite expensive that way so I
find it easier to just buy at good spot-prices, more and
other than what I need at any particular time and then have
spare parts available.

We may have different perspectives though, and different
parts needs. If it were me building *only* another system
with slower fans I'd probably not go to the trouble of
assembling a 12 position switched diode controller, rather
starting out by using some panaflo "L" speed fans and seeing
if they'll run OK from 5V via a simple 4-pin molex fan
adapter (swapping it's 5V & 12V pins) like one of these:

http://www.svcompucycle.com/conad.html
Most commonly this one:
http://www.svcompucycle.com/3pinto4pinad.html

SVC.COM is about as cheap as it gets for small fan adapters
as they'll throw them into a USPS envelope... though
sometimes their shopping cart shipping calculator is
malfunctional so scrutinize their quoted shipping cost to
see if it looks appropriate for something so small and
light.


You are right. In my case, I have lowered the speed of the 60mm fan
enough that I cannot hear its noise from 4-to-5-ft away (in a very
quiet environment). This is good enough even though I could have
reduced the noise even further.

It is harder to get a fan quiet with obstructions so
nearby... and yet the obstructions further reduce the
airflow. I'd consider just putting the router
under/behind/etc a desk if you need it quieter, plus that
gets it out of the way, out of sight too... seems like
tethered computer gear keeps multiplying all around us.
 
J

jaykchan

Well "12 position" might work, but generally they're listed
by number of poles and throws, so a 12 position switch would
be a Single Pole, 12 throw, "SP12T" or 1P12T. It may be
easier to just browse through an online store's categories
though to get to them. The aforementioned electronics
oriented suppliers like Mouser, Digikey, Newark, Allied,
etc, etc, will likely have a few alternatives.

The one I used was here,
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=700425&item=RS-117&type=store

Thanks for the link and the keywords.

Jay Chan
 

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