how to get best results? Vuescan and negative films

G

Giorgio

Hi.

I have tried in different ways but it's hard to get best (or good) results
scanning Kodak negative color films (from the 80s) with my Nikon CoolscanV.
Are you experienced about "right" settings in color tab or elsewhere in
Vuescan?

Please don't say that I may get best results from Nikonscan: I compared many
scans but I dislike, Nikon scan gives really poor results. (IMHO).
Does anyone know how Silverfast (NegFix tool) works?

I do scan about 500/600 negatives and I'd like an "easy" way to do this,
without wasting much time in Photoshop post production on each file.

Tks

Giorgio
 
R

Roger S.

I do scan about 500/600 negatives and I'd like an "easy" way to do this,
without wasting much time in Photoshop post production on each file.

Tks

Giorgio

I've yet to find an easy foolproof way to get really good results, so
you might be out of luck. Try Vuescan's advanced workflow, and
consider Lightroom to correct multiple files quickly.
 
R

Rob

Giorgio said:
Hi.

I have tried in different ways but it's hard to get best (or good) results
scanning Kodak negative color films (from the 80s) with my Nikon CoolscanV.
Are you experienced about "right" settings in color tab or elsewhere in
Vuescan?

Please don't say that I may get best results from Nikonscan: I compared many
scans but I dislike, Nikon scan gives really poor results. (IMHO).
Does anyone know how Silverfast (NegFix tool) works?

I do scan about 500/600 negatives and I'd like an "easy" way to do this,
without wasting much time in Photoshop post production on each file.

Tks

Giorgio

I think that you will have problems scanning old negs as the dyes fade
and are changing as the neg gets older. Whats more the dyes don't alter
in a uniform amount across the neg.

There is no simple solution but to preview and adjust to the best result.

It just means a heap of work to get results.

r
 
T

Toni Nikkanen

Giorgio said:
Please don't say that I may get best results from Nikonscan: I compared many
scans but I dislike, Nikon scan gives really poor results. (IMHO).
Does anyone know how Silverfast (NegFix tool) works?

In many cases especially on color neg film, Silverfast's NegaFix is a
real helper. However it's no magic wand that fixes faded old
negatives to be like new. However you can try it for yourself; they
have a demo version available on their web site.
 
G

Giorgio

"Roger S." <[email protected]> ha scritto nel messaggio
"Rob" <[email protected]> ha scritto nel messaggio
"Toni Nikkanen" <[email protected]> ha scritto nel messaggio


In many cases especially on color neg film, Silverfast's NegaFix is a
real helper. However it's no magic wand that fixes faded old
negatives to be like new. However you can try it for yourself; they
have a demo version available on their web site.


This means that there is nothing new under the sun......

Silverfast? I tried it but my opinion is that Vuescan is better.


ok
tks all

Giorgio
 
M

Maris V. Lidaka Sr.

Then adjust for color cast in your image correction software. If you're
using Photoshop, converting to LAB color space often helps.

Maris
Giorgio said:
Hi.

I have tried in different ways but it's hard to get best (or good)
results scanning Kodak negative color films (from the 80s) with my
Nikon CoolscanV. Are you experienced about "right" settings in color
tab or elsewhere in Vuescan? [snipped]

I think that you will have problems scanning old negs as the dyes fade
and are changing as the neg gets older. Whats more the dyes don't
alter in a uniform amount across the neg.

There is no simple solution but to preview and adjust to the best
result.
It just means a heap of work to get results.
 
D

DenverDad

Giorgio,

Assuming you mean exclusively negative film (as opposed to slides), I
would second Roger's suggestion to try out Vuescan's Advanced Workflow
Suggestions. If you are not familiar with that you can follow the
link right from Vuescan - click on Help | User's Guide..., then on the
page that comes up go to Advance Workflow Suggestions. The procedures
outlined there are intended to optimize the exposure and color
settings for that particular roll of film, so that you don't have to
tweak each image. For the part that says "Insert film with most
transparent area", you might want to use the film leader from the roll
if it is available, i.e., the very beginning or end of the roll which
has been exposed but doesn't have an image.

You still have some settings to make when following this workflow.
Under Negative Vendor on the Color tab, I always use Generic. For me
this usually gives better results than any of the canned choices (if
my film is even on the list to begin with!). Another key setting is
Color balance (on the Color tab). If you truly want to minimize (or
eliminate) any post processing, then White balance is probably your
best bet. In that case, preview one of the images and visually adjust
the white point until the image looks best (i.e., bright enough,
without too much clipping of the highlights). Black point seems less
important. If you are willing to (or want to) make basic levels
adjustments (setting white/black point) and contrast adjustments in
post processing, then Neutral or even None will be better settings.
The image directly from the scanner will be darker and lower contrast,
but then at least when you do your own adjustments in Photoshop (or
image processor of your choice), you can keep from blowing out any
highlights. This is important if you are picky about such things.

In any event, once you have settings you like, save them. Under File,
select Save settings and then give the .ini file a descriptive name
which includes the film type. You can call up this file again, any
time you are using that same type and version of film and those
settings should work well. Provided that is, that significant fading
hasn't occured. Personally, fading has never been much of an issue
for me, even with film from that era. But if you do suspect you have
some faded negatives, you might want to experiment with the Restore
fading and/or Restore colors options on the Filter tab. For me those
options only makes things worse.

If all else fails, don't be afraid to reset everything to default
settings (go to File|Default options). I've always been impressed at
how good a job this can do.

Hope that helps.

Jeff
 
G

Giorgio

"DenverDad" <[email protected]> ha scritto nel messaggio


Jeff
Assuming you mean exclusively negative film (as opposed to slides),
yes, this is....
would second Roger's suggestion to try out Vuescan's Advanced Workflow
I tried what you and Roger suggested and I can say that you were right.
I think the best is locking exposure and color (measured on a "white"
sample) , preferring "none" as color balance. adding a medium infrared
filter (sometime).
Then I made last adjustments in CS2
The result is quite good but now I can realize that scanning films or slides
are really different things!!!

Tks both

Giorgio
 

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