You're referring to the front panel connector, where normally you
connect RESET switch, PWR switch, HDD LED, PWR LED as inputs and
outputs. On retail computers, the pin spacing is 0.1" on those,
they're all close spacing two pin assemblies, with 0.1" between pins.
On motherboards you buy at the store, a different standard is used.
An older standard. Speaker is a "four hole" shell, with the
two working wires having 0.3" between them.
When the case wiring doesn't match your new motherboard, you have
an option if the case connector is bigger than the motherboard pin pattern.
This diagram, shows the female part of the pin header scheme,
has a retention tab. Bending the tab, allows the wire and crimp
pin, to be backed out of the nylon shell. By doing that, you can
take a 1x4 speaker thing from a computer case, and change the pin
spacing to make it into a "1x2 plus overhang". If there is room,
you can then seat the newly modified connector, leaving the two
unused shell holes sitting out in space. So you can make a
"bigger connector" into a "smaller connector". You can even
"hack saw" the excess shell off if you want
I knew
you'd enjoy that part.
http://www.frontx.com/head_con.html
If the computer case were to ship with a 1x2, and you needed a
1x4 spacing, then you need to buy a new shell for the crimp pins
and wires.
For example, this 1x4 shell, would allow you to modify a computer
case 1x2 assembly, and move the pins out to the proper 1x4 spacing.
That one happens to be $0.50.
http://www.frontx.com/cpx075_3.html
I can see your front panel in the picture you provided here.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/Statenislander/Computer/F-Pa...
And I found the manual here. UM_EPIA-M_150.pdf 1,540,092 bytes
http://www.via.com.tw/servlet/downloadSvl?motherboard_id=81&download_....
Notes: "KEY" means the pin is missing, and provides an alignment function..
So pin 15 is missing on the motherboard.
Polarized, means the "+" and "-" are important. If the LED does not
light up, simply power off, rotate the connector 180 degrees, plug
it in and try again. Computer case LEDs usually have at least a
5V "peak inverse volts" rating, and miswiring them won't damage them.
Rotate them and try again. The LED lights one way, but not the other.
The switches are not polarized, because the switch electronics are
isolated from chassis ground. The switch should work, no matter how
it is rotated. You don't have to match "+" to "+" when connecting
the switch. Whereas, with the LEDs, you do want to match them
"+" to "+".
Notice the VIA power LED pattern, is compatible with 1x2 and 1x3
computer case connectors. In the diagram, I'm assuming the case
uses a 1x2 connector. A 1x3 connector would have the middle hole
blank, and the + and - pins on 1 and 3.
The case speaker beeps during POST. High end cases don't come with
speakers. All the cheap computer cases I own, came with a"beep"
speaker. Handy, when you're listening for POST to complete.
Regular audio, comes out of your other speakers.
Pin Signal Pin Signal
1 PWR_LED+ 2 HDD_LED+ \___HDD activity LED
Power LED ___/3 PWR_LED+ 4 HDD_LED- / (1x2) Note: LEDS are polarized.
(1x2) \5 PWR_LED- 6 PW_BN+ \___ 1x2 connector for POWER button
/7 SPEAKER+ 8 PW_BN- / (This switch is not polarized.)
Case SPKR ___/ 9 10 RESET+ \___ 1x2 connector for RESET button
(1x4) \ 11 12 RESET- / (This switch is not polarized.)
\13 SPEAKER- 14 SLED+ \___ Sleep LED on case is unlikely.
15 (KEY) 16 SLED- / So this is a no connect.
So FrontX, or any decent electronics store (probably not Radio Shack),
would carry nylon shells. If you're going to waste the time
making a FrontX order, don't forget to buy packs of crimp pins too, to
make the order worthwhile. If you need to re-terminate some wires in a
computer, these will come in handy. These are the pins that slide fit
into the nylon shell. It takes a bit of practice if you don't have the
right tool to make the crimp, to do these by hand. Which is why you buy
way more pins than you'll really need. Practice makes perfect.
http://www.frontx.com/cpx076.html
And as with everything in life, there are brands of shells, that won't
take other brands of pins, and vice versa. (I had to file some
down, to get them to fit.) So if you thought buying that stuff
would solve all possible PANEL problems, think again. You would
though, expect a FrontX shell, to fit a FrontX crimp pin.
HTH,
Paul
