Andy said:
Could I extend the range of this wifi antenna by extending the wire lengths ?
Not sure why there are 8 wires for an antenna.
http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b516/drew77580/antenna_zps765323b0.jpg
Andy
Why not figure out what a quarter wavelength at that frequency would be ?
The length could be optimized for resonance at a particular frequency.
There are some low frequency antennas, where the longer the wire, the
better. But your antenna is for two and a half gig, or five plus gig,
which is microwave frequencies. A good, high gain antenna, may not cover
both bands at the same time. So you'd at least want to check the
Wifi device, to see if it operates at one band or two, or, has separate
antenna connectors for the bands.
This article is intended to give you some idea of the complexity.
http://www.hamuniverse.com/yagibasics.html
And this software, is a simulator for simulating antennas. In
fact, some antenna people, will not buy an antenna over the
Internet, unless they can get the dimensions and simulate it.
Data entry for antenna simulation, is a big detractor from
using this stuff. (Lots of typing...)
http://www.qsl.net/4nec2/
Now, I've built an antenna, from scratch. I had the plots and
predictions as to what frequency it would cut off at. Instead
of behaving as the simulator predicted, it "wasted gain" at
high frequencies, and allowed me to pick up television from
another city. It wasn't supposed to be able to do that. To
its credit, the beam width of the antenna was pretty close.
The antenna was around 15 degrees, and a bitch to point. To
be practical, such an antenna should sit on a rotator. When
your antenna is that directional, it may need to be shifted a
degree or two now and then, for optimum results.
When you get a Wifi device, it comes with an omnidirectional
antenna. Antennas are three dimensional beasts, and the omni
makes a donut pattern. In fact, if you had a Wifi laptop
in the basement, directly below the original antenna, there
might be no signal there, as the antenna lobes don't point
there. It's important to know what the radiation pattern looks
like, before "attempting something dumb". If the antenna
has a dead spot in the pattern, you must avoid it.
Similarly, if you live in a house with two floors to it,
then buy an extremely directional antenna, there may be no
radiation pattern below the horizon. And then an attempt to
reach the other floor might fail. In fact, the antenna may
need to be tipped or rotated.
Even when a transmitter site and receiver site are reasonably
horizontally oriented (same elevation), the antenna may still
need to be tilted for optimal signal. This is caused by
"bending". You can find web sites that discuss the effects of
nearby objects, and the suggestion to not blindly accept
perfectly vertical as the best choice.
Obviously, if you have four receivers, all in different directions
and heights, you can't really use a single directional antenna
to reach all of them. But as I understand your application,
which is "point to point beaming" between two units, carry
on with your extreme directional testing. If you select
the very best antennas, you'll "need a laser to align them".
Getting optimal antenna position is that difficult.
And the best antenna, cannot defeat a Faraday cage. If
there is a metal door frame or something similar in the way,
a high gain antenna might not defeat that. It helps, if you
have some kind of software for your Wifi card, that can
give an indication of signal strength, as you "walk away"
from your router.
Paul