!!!!!Computer won't boot up with SATA dvd burner connected update

[MASTER]

I got the new power supply, a diablotek model no. PSEL500 with the
following spec's.
AC INPUT CURRENT 8A (RMS) for 115VAC input
5A (RMS) for 230VAC input
AC INPUT 115V/230V-60/50 HZ
DC OUTPUT +3.3V +5V +12V -12V +5VSB
MAX COMBINED WATTAGE 28A 30A 25A 0.5A 2A
500W
Specifications for connectors
1x 20/24 pin motherboard connector
1x 4/8 pin motherboard connector
1x 6/8 pin PCI-E connector
4x 4 pin molex connectors
1x 4 pin floppy power connector
2x SATA connectors
1x 12CM fan connector

When installed the computer did get past the bios and went into start
up for windows but then it restarted on it's own and froze in bios. I
had to do a hard shut down and then restarted and I went into bios to
verify that it was reading the SATA dvd burner and it did on SATA 1.
I saved the new configuration and then let it restart and it then went
all the way into windows. I went into device manager and checked it
and it was listed and no problems with it. I have not done a test
burn on it as I don't have anything to burn to dvd as of yet.

So I guess the problem I was having to begin with as a very old and
outdated power supply and I was able to solve it with a good and
inexpensive new one for $19.95 at micro center mall and I am lucky
enough to live in a city with one of the stores nearby. The only
negative remark I had ever read about this particular power supply was
that it was loud but one other person had said it was quiet and I can
verify that I am sitting 3 feet from it and it I can not hear a thing.
I hope my experience will be able to help anyone else who might run
into the same type of problem I had.

 

[VanguardLH]

.. I was able to solve it with a good and
inexpensive new one for $19.95 ...

Inexpensive? Yes.
Good? No.

 

[peter]

?hate to disillusion you but..

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2010/12/17/diablotek_phd650_650w_power_supply_review/9

peter



If you find a posting or message from me offensive,inappropriate
or disruptive,please ignore it.
If you dont know how to ignore a posting complain
to me and I will be only too happy to demonstrate
"MASTER" wrote in message

I got the new power supply, a diablotek model no. PSEL500 with the
following spec's.
AC INPUT CURRENT 8A (RMS) for 115VAC input
5A (RMS) for 230VAC input
AC INPUT 115V/230V-60/50 HZ
DC OUTPUT +3.3V +5V +12V -12V +5VSB
MAX COMBINED WATTAGE 28A 30A 25A 0.5A 2A
500W
Specifications for connectors
1x 20/24 pin motherboard connector
1x 4/8 pin motherboard connector
1x 6/8 pin PCI-E connector
4x 4 pin molex connectors
1x 4 pin floppy power connector
2x SATA connectors
1x 12CM fan connector

When installed the computer did get past the bios and went into start
up for windows but then it restarted on it's own and froze in bios. I
had to do a hard shut down and then restarted and I went into bios to
verify that it was reading the SATA dvd burner and it did on SATA 1.
I saved the new configuration and then let it restart and it then went
all the way into windows. I went into device manager and checked it
and it was listed and no problems with it. I have not done a test
burn on it as I don't have anything to burn to dvd as of yet.

So I guess the problem I was having to begin with as a very old and
outdated power supply and I was able to solve it with a good and
inexpensive new one for $19.95 at micro center mall and I am lucky
enough to live in a city with one of the stores nearby. The only
negative remark I had ever read about this particular power supply was
that it was loud but one other person had said it was quiet and I can
verify that I am sitting 3 feet from it and it I can not hear a thing.
I hope my experience will be able to help anyone else who might run
into the same type of problem I had.

 

[MASTER]

?hate to disillusion you but..

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2010/12/17/diablotek_phd650_650w_power_supply_review/9

peter

I hate to disillusion you Peter but this is a review for a different
power supply and a long time ago and not recent. I think you should
investigate stuff first before putting out misleading information.

 

[MASTER]

Inexpensive? Yes.
Good? No.

Good yes very much so. You should do your homework first before
putting out misleading information.

 

[VanguardLH]

Good yes very much so. You should do your homework first before
putting out misleading information.

Oh yes, a 500W PSU that sucks in 920W. Oh yes, all the good PSUs have a
lousy efficiency of only 56% (only 43% for 230VAC), for sure. And here
all this time I was thinking a high efficiency was one indicator of a
good PSU. Next time I'll hunt around for a 10% efficient PSU and it'll
be super fantastic, uh huh.

If you get around to fabricating a test appliance and try to pull a
*sustained* 500W, first turn off the smoke detectors in your home.

 

[GMAN]

Oh yes, a 500W PSU that sucks in 920W. Oh yes, all the good PSUs have a
lousy efficiency of only 56% (only 43% for 230VAC), for sure. And here
all this time I was thinking a high efficiency was one indicator of a
good PSU. Next time I'll hunt around for a 10% efficient PSU and it'll
be super fantastic, uh huh.

If you get around to fabricating a test appliance and try to pull a
*sustained* 500W, first turn off the smoke detectors in your home.

see here

 

[GMAN]

I hate to disillusion you Peter but this is a review for a different
power supply and a long time ago and not recent. I think you should
investigate stuff first before putting out misleading information.

Well i've never known a crap manufacturer to ever start making good products.

 

[VanguardLH]

see here

I always figure with cheap PSUs to never put more than two-thirds of its
rated load on it. They usually don't measure up to three-quarters of
their rating and you need a buffer to ensure safety and survivability.
A better PSUs is one you can *overload* continuously by, say, 10%; i.e.,
the PSU is under-rated. Of course, it helps to actually test the PSU to
determine if it is under- or over-rated but the test is usually
destructive so it's used to determine likelihood of a good vendor.

I think the 2nd video is rigged. Could be 230VAC was connected to the
PSU setup or fixed for use at 115VAC, or it was defective, or the
outputs were shorted (and this is a cheap one that doesn't regulate
against over-amperage draw). I haven't seen or had a user mention such
an explosive failure of their PSU but I have had plenty buying $20 PSUs
that mention hearing a loud pop or just smelling the burning plastic on
the internal wiring or components (very stinky, highly recognizable).

 

[SteveH]

I hate to disillusion you Peter but this is a review for a different
power supply and a long time ago and not recent. I think you should
investigate stuff first before putting out misleading information.

Well when your 'bargain' PSU blows and takes some or all of your PC's
components with it, do come back and tell us all.how you enjoyed the
experience.

 

[Flasherly]

Inexpensive? Yes.
Good? No.

I buy them, or at least the best I can afford in a trade off over
rebates and reviews. Usually in whatever flavor is up for grabs on
Newegg. Possibly a "bronze" rated flavoring last time, (certified
MadMax, I guess), but not much more, tentatively a third over, on your
$20 outlay. I can get its specs if needed.

More a thought along what you originally said regarding optical
drives. And, yes, I've had those sorts of issues with running up to
four DVDs. Matter of fact, I still don't trust them, the DVDs, unless
doing a magic chant before cold boot and power-up. Has something of a
tendency, these days, to crash on me if attempting a burn on what
could be exacerbated by an exceedingly "cob-webbed in" XP OS (with
many, many program installs kludged together over the years).

Anyway...something else to watch for in that aspect is the problem is
only temporarily addressed and will return (and in various
incantations of insidious PS-related problems). As the PS ages (I run
mine 24-7). As I said, I'll buy the best I can swing among regarded
brandnames for the least dollar amount. Watching special sales and on
"the curve" -- who cares if its 1000 watts. 200- and 400-watt are now
exponentially your grandfather's PS of yesterday.

(Heh -- just got a PYLE 1000-watt "DJ" amp and tested it with a power
wattage meter against a 30-year-old Carver 100 watt -- begins clipping
just at 50 watts, whereas the Carver's clip circuitry won't shut down
until running slightly overspeced of 100 watts. Pyle's a return item
for another day and another sale on maybe a punchy 200-watt Crown
class-D amp).

 

[Loren Pechtel]

Well when your 'bargain' PSU blows and takes some or all of your PC's
components with it, do come back and tell us all.how you enjoyed the
experience.

Exactly. I had a batch of those--when they died they took the board
with them and generally something connected to the board. The last
couple were tossed while still functional to avoid the damage.

 

[Virgil2U]

Well idiot Steve H I am still on it after several month's with no problems. I wish you guy's that work for these computer part's manufacturers would not come on here and post false information to sell your over priced crappy merchandise.