CMOS after changing mobo battery

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attilathehun1

Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032 motherboard
battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE parallel
straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out the
motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC stopped
working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again for
a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day you
will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell tail
signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery checker
device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to see
if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically do
anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically do
anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
Click to expand...

If the system ran OK when the battery was good, and failed when
the battery expired, it seems likely a new good battery will enable
the system to run OK. (Of course you may need to customize
BIOS settiings.)

If you ask specific questions about motherboard jumpers or
BIOS you will need to identify these before anyone can answer,
or else add your questions to a thread that already identifies them.
 
Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
motherboard battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated
the RAM sticks, changed the power supply, changed the video card,
changed the IDE parallel straps, changed the monitor, changed the
hard drive, and finally took out the motherboard and removed the
heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and checked the chip out.
After all that it turns out the reason the PC stopped working was the
little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again for a
little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next
day you will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim
out. Tell tail signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking
this new battery checker device that I bought from Home Depot and I
needed batteries to check to see if the settings worked and found out
the battery wasn't working.
Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the
motherboard
that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to
physically do anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure
something there?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Click to expand...


Go to the mobo mfg site and look for instructions on same. Are you sure
that's what it's for? Make certain. Get the wrong one and you could
possibly put improper voltages on something. Get the instructions for
that mobo somehow, if you have to look on EBay and Craig's List for
them.

Most likely, and it won't hurt anything to try:

If the jumper is on a header with only two pins:
remove it, wait about 60 seconds, replace it. CMOS should be reset.

If there are 3 pins in the header:
Pull the jumper off as above and replace it; see if it did anything.
No?
Put the jumper on the OTHER TWO pins for 60 seconds. The put back in
original position.
See if it helped.

More than 3 pins in the header? STOP! Don't mess with it. Either it's
the wrong one or there's something special about it.

HTH
 
OK, there are 3 pins on the jumper. Should I first try to start if up and see
if everything comes up fine? Or after I start it up go into BIOS and then
switch the jumper from 1 & 2 prong to 2 & 3 prong for how long and then
switch them back. Ok, I just want to know after firing up the PC, when to
start the jumper procedure.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
attilathehun1 said:
Ok, I found out all I needed to do was to change the 3 volt 2032
motherboard
battery and all would have been ok. Instead I reseated the RAM sticks,
changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the IDE parallel
straps, changed the monitor, changed the hard drive, and finally took out
the
motherboard and removed the heatsink and fan asembly off the CPU chip and
checked the chip out. After all that it turns out the reason the PC
stopped
working was the little 3 volt battery on the motherboard. It worked again
for
a little while, maybe a day after I changed the monitor. Just like a
flashlight that is going dead, after you sit it for a while the next day
you
will get some power and it will work for a while and then dim out. Tell
tail
signs of battery failure. By accident I was checking this new battery
checker
device that I bought from Home Depot and I needed batteries to check to
see
if the settings worked and found out the battery wasn't working.
Ok, now lets get to the CMOS. There is a CMOS jumper on the motherboard
that I see. What do I need to do to the jumper or do I need to physically
do
anything on the mobo or just go into BIOS and configure something there?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
Click to expand...


The CMOS jumper is generally set on two of three pins by default in order to
preserve BIOS settings. Moving the jumper to the 'other' pair will set the
BIOS to factory default, after which the jumper is placed back on the
'running' pair of pins

You don't have to move the jumper unless you have set some BIOS and the
computer will not boot properly to Windows..



--
Mike Hall - MVP
How to construct a good post..
http://dts-l.com/goodpost.htm
How to use the Microsoft Product Support Newsgroups..
http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?pr=newswhelp&style=toc
Mike's Window - My Blog..
http://msmvps.com/blogs/mikehall/default.aspx
 
By removing the battery you've already set the CMOS to default....there is
no need to "jump" anything.
Restart and enter the BIOS...correct the date and let the BIOS redetect all
hardware...double check to see that it matches what you have.
Reboot and let it start whatever OS you are using...Go to Device manager and
check to see that all devices are functioning.
That’s it..............
Any Customizations that you had before will need to be redone...but first
make sure "default" works..!!!!!!!!

peter
 
By removing the battery you've already set the CMOS to
default....there is no need to "jump" anything.
Restart and enter the BIOS...correct the date and let the BIOS
redetect all hardware...double check to see that it matches what you
have. Reboot and let it start whatever OS you are using...Go to Device
manager and check to see that all devices are functioning.
That's it..............
Any Customizations that you had before will need to be redone...but
first make sure "default" works..!!!!!!!!

peter
Click to expand...

Good grief! How did I miss that? Good catch lol
 
Leave the jumper alone. It's purpose is to allow you to physically reset the
CMOS settings back to their original settings. Removing the battery for a
few minutes typically does the same thing. So the dead battery took care of
that . Once the fresh battery is installed simply start the computer.
However if you had some custom setting in the BIOS you will need to reset
those but that is done by accessing the BIOS not moving jumpers around.
 
So, unless I'm having some type of problem, all I do it go into BIOS and
configure the correct date, can't I fix the date from the system tray on the
right hand bottom corner task bar? Or do I have to go into BIOS while it's
booting up the first time and correct the date there?
Also, if I am having problems after I correct the date, then and only then
do I physically go onto the mobo and move the jumpers over one prong, and
then put them back into the position they were at before I touched them? How
long do I keep it over onto the new position and then move it back onto the
original position?
Maybe lets wait until I get that far. well, no, I think if I get that
answered even though I don't need to do it, it would be good experience.
Any more help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
attilathehun1 said:
So, unless I'm having some type of problem, all I do it go into BIOS and
configure the correct date, can't I fix the date from the system tray on
the
right hand bottom corner task bar? Or do I have to go into BIOS while it's
booting up the first time and correct the date there?
Click to expand...

Yes, no, yes.
Also, if I am having problems after I correct the date,
Click to expand...

Bridge, cross, if and when you come to it.
then and only then
do I physically go onto the mobo and move the jumpers over one prong, and
then put them back into the position they were at before I touched them?
How
long do I keep it over onto the new position and then move it back onto
the
original position?
Maybe lets wait until I get that far.
Click to expand...

Yes! Just change the chuffing date and time for now! :-)
well, no, I think if I get that
answered even though I don't need to do it, it would be good experience.
Any more help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

Yes: if you want to work towards a working system, just set the date and
time and then see where you're at. If you want to start moving jumpers
around just as a learning experience, go ahead *afterwards*, and at your own
peril!
Thanks, attilathehun1
--
Click to expand...

<snip>
 
So, unless I'm having some type of problem, all I do it go into BIOS and
configure the correct date, can't I fix the date from the system tray on the
right hand bottom corner task bar? Or do I have to go into BIOS while it's
booting up the first time and correct the date there?
Click to expand...

Ans: any of these 3 methods ought to succeed.
Also, if I am having problems after I correct the date, then and only then
do I physically go onto the mobo and move the jumpers over one prong, and
then put them back into the position they were at before I touched them? How
long do I keep it over onto the new position and then move it back onto the
original position?
Click to expand...

Answered in earlier post by MVP Mike Hall.

We note you suggest in both paras. you expect other problems.
If you hope for an answer, you must specify with details.
 
Ok, I finally got everything plugged back in, the original video card, and
the CPU heatsink and fan assembly and nothing on the monitor. The PC fired
up, the CPU fan and case fan were working. So, I changed the monitor back to
the original too, a Dell. Nope, same thing. LED light on the monitor yellow.
I reseated the RAM sticks and nope. It had something up on the monitor before
I installed the heatsink. Would the CMOS prevent the monitor from going to
green LED? Maybe I should switch over the jumpers one prong over and see what
happens?
I'm almost at the end of my rope after all this.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
Yeah, I changed the hard drive and still nothing on the monitor. The LED
light is yellow. I moved the jumpers on the mobo to default, I guess default,
I moved them over one prong, from prongs 1 to 2 to 2 to 3 or vice-versa.
Nothing happened then but worse. When I changed the jumper over one prong the
PC didn't even fire up. What do you think is the problem? Even the tech at
Dell told me to move the jumper on the motherboard and then after a while
move it back. I'm going to try another hard drive. I already did try another
hard drive, but lets try another drive.
You know, I already went through all this, but, at that time the PC wasn't
even firing up, so we've made some progress here.
I'm puzzled, I fired it up and the monitor came up and green, and then when
I installed the heatsink and fan assembly and plugged in the speakers and
fired it up, the monitor didn't work. Something might be shorting it out or
the power supply is bad. That's something I might try, another power supply.
Ok, lets get going here before it gets dark.
Thanks, attiathehun1
 
Maybe I should take power supply reading on the devices because it is firing
up but the monitor isn't coming up. What and where should I touch the
multi-meter to what wires and what readings should come up?
This is the end. If I can't fix this thing now, I've had it.
Ok, the power supply is going to be checked.
Any more help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
On Board Video??......can you add a Video card and see if that will work??
What Mobo are we dealing with here.???
Or is it a Dell..??

peter
 
What do you mean when you say "I had something up on the monitor before I
installed the heatsink." ? Are you saying you ran the system without a heat
sink????? If so you could have damaged the cpu. Some will fry in a few
seconds if run with no heatsink.

Anyway you can try moving the BIOS jumper. But FIRST ensure you have turned
off the computer. As mentioned several times move the jumper and let it sit
for a 10 seconds or so and then move the jumper back before restarting the
computer.
 
The motherboard is a M7VIG 400, that supports AMD processor. Maybe the
motherboard jumper on this motherboard can't be put back to default for some
reason. When I stick it onto the other 2 prongs or there are 3 prongs, so
when I put it from 1 and 2 to 2 and 3 or 2 and 3 to 1 and 2 or whatever, it
doesn't even fire up. When I stick it back onto the original prongs it fires
up, but then the monitor doesn't work.
I had a message up and ready to go, but my brother xed it out and now I'm
going over this again.
I just now installed a new video card, right out from the box, and it
didn't work either. I'm not going into the model #, I already went through a
bunch of model #s and the message got deleted. Maybe that's for the best.
Ok, a run down. I reseated the RAM sticks, and changed the power supply but
I have my ideas that it might be the power supply.
I'm going right now to check out the motherboard P1 connector to see if
that is the culprit. BRB and I hope this time someone doesn't delete out the
message. OK, brb.
-- The readings on the motherboard P1 connector are wrong, off 2 volts at
least. I'm taking the readings while the computer is turned off, but the
power supply is on the line, anotherwords in the ready position. I turn off
the power by flipping the switch to the O, and turn it on by flipping the
switch back to the ----. You see what I mean. Lets try the readings with the
power turned on. BRB Ok, the readings with the PC turned on are correct on
the molex connectors to the hard drive and CD drive. The P1 mobo connector is
reading 3.4 on the orange and 12.06 on yellow, 4.8 on white, 5.3 on red, but
the green says here it's supposed to be PS_On for the signal but my
multi-meter reads 66.8. The gray is supposed to say Power_Good and says
instead 47 volts. Maybe the multi-meter isn't capable of reading out
Power_Good and PS_ON. Other than those 2 pins.
Ok, I guess I'm ready to dump this PC motherboard and CPU, well, the
motherboard at least. Unless something is shorting out. That's a possibility.
I changed the monitor too, a couple of times, so it's not that . Maybe it's
the M7VIG 400 mobo that's the lemon.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
attilathehun1
 
That is a really old board....on some of these old boards one needs to find
the onboard video settings in the BIOS and take away all of the memory
allocated to it before installing an add on Video card...
It has a AGPx4 slot....does your video card match that..???
The main issue with compatibility is that 4X slots and cards have a normal
operating voltage of 1.5V and 8X run at 0.8v.
Ideally if you are going to use an 8X card you need a "universal" card that
will recognise that it is plugged into a 1.5V slot.
peter
 
Ok, thanks for pointing that out to me. Yes this new card is an AGP 8x, but
wouldn't there be backward compatibility? Oh, I see what your saying, I'd
have to go into the BIOS and remove the old drivers or into device manager
and remove the old drivers. Which is it, BIOS or Device Manager where I"d
remove the old drivers? Ok, lets move on.
Why then wouldn't the old card that was in the PC work, that was working
the whole time? Ok, lets plug this old card into this PC and see if it still
works.
Ok, I'm going to have to shut down. I'll post another message to tell you
if the old card works. It's a 128 mb DDR Nvidia FX GeForce 5200.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
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