Cleaning boards

[not_here.5.species8350]

I noticed that my cards and boards are covered in dust.

I have no compressed air (I could blow on them), what is the safest way to clean boards (cables, etc).

Thanks

 

[Paul]

I noticed that my cards and boards are covered in dust.

I have no compressed air (I could blow on them), what is the safest way to clean boards (cables, etc).

Thanks

Dust present in moving air, passing over plastic
components, can cause a static charge to build up.
That is the danger with either blowing compressed
air, or using a vacuum cleaner, for cleaning. For
a vacuum cleaner, you'd want a grounded tip through a
high impedance connection to ground. That drains any
charge off the metal barrel.

barrel ---- 1 meg resistor ---- Ground connection

*******

They make canned compressed air, but this kind of
thing is a relatively expensive way to clean large
objects. This is suited for perhaps working on
camera lenses. The worst part about these particular
products, is the seal on the can may leak. At work,
we might buy a case of these, and near the end of the
case, pulling new cans from the box would find them
largely empty. The air coming from cans like this,
can be cold (sub-ambient). While this article mentions
difluroethane, they fill these cans with other things
now, because the original propellant affected the
ozone layer.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dust-Off

You can use a damp cloth to clean the surface
of the larger chips. But it still makes a mess,
and you can never be sure you aren't going to
make things worse.

Since I've damaged a Coolermaster 120mm fan,
by using a damp cloth, I have to point out that
the bearings on fans, can't really take a lot
of abuse. So if you're going to clean fan blades,
remember that the bearing can be damaged. I had
to replace the fan on my CPU cooler because of that.

In terms of chemicals, water and simple alcohols are
safest. The hard drive is not completely sealed (has a
breather hole), so don't apply liquid to the surface
of the drive directly. Just wipe the surface with a
slightly damp cloth if you have to. The body of ICs
can take water or isopropyl without damage. Stronger
solvents (gasoline or acetone) can damage plastic.
Alcohol applied to things like monitor screens, can
remove any anti-reflection coatings present. Good
cleaning info for monitors, can be hard to find
(up to date info). My LCD monitor, has an actual
glossy glass finish, which accepts ammonia based
solvents. Not all are designed that way. That
was part of the attraction of buying the model
of monitor I got - it can be cleaned.

That's a quick overview.

Paul

 

[Flasherly]

I noticed that my cards and boards are covered in dust.

I have no compressed air (I could blow on them), what is the safest way to clean boards (cables, etc).

Thanks

I've a 60 gallon air compressor with a 4 cycle duty 220 volt engine.
Perhaps a 2 cycle motor will exceed the 90 pounds per sq inch of
working force I've worked with. Generally, a working force I wouldn't
bear down in any sense with, but in holding back, away at a distance
from the working surface, that the air tip's nozzle suffices to lift
fluff off. The revealed residual, hardier and crustier, is perhaps
more apropos. As if baked on airborne impurities through heat cycles
repeatedly topped with an iced frosting of high humidity. Alcohol and
a soft 2 or 3" bristle trim brush will loosen and allow to flow apart
from what's left, whereupon directly the airflow in no less a
judicious fashion will quickly evaporate from hidden recesses, within
those nasty joints and pools, for finished product we, here at Jiffy's
Quick Computer Tune-Up Garage, are always proud to present as next
best to new.

 

[Marten Kemp]

Dust present in moving air, passing over plastic
components, can cause a static charge to build up.
That is the danger with either blowing compressed
air, or using a vacuum cleaner, for cleaning. For
a vacuum cleaner, you'd want a grounded tip through a
high impedance connection to ground. That drains any
charge off the metal barrel.

barrel ---- 1 meg resistor ---- Ground connection

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...KG4TI91816000000_nid=FWNKJDPMK7beWM6QHTHD0Hgl
(Mind the wrap)

Vacuum with conductive case and hose.

 

[DK]

I noticed that my cards and boards are covered in dust.

I have no compressed air (I could blow on them), what is the safest way to
clean boards (cables, etc).

Leaf blower! Turn everything off, open the case, take it outside and
blast it. Works much better than any vacuuming that I tried.

I've used this for 20+ years without any problems.

DK

 

[not_here.5.species8350]

I noticed that my cards and boards are covered in dust.



I have no compressed air (I could blow on them), what is the safest way to clean boards (cables, etc).



Thanks

The only equipment that I've got that comes even close is a fan heater. Heat off fnab blows cold air. Otherwise I've only got a paint brush, tap water, and cloths.

Ps. I know that static can damage components. But when a computer is running doesn't the electric and magnetic fields generate static?

 

[Flasherly]

Vacuum cleaner with suitable tip. Lift and loosen the dust
accumulates to tip w/ the p/brush.

Bad enough, disassemble and stack boards vertically. On old
newspapers. Use p/bush and dollar store alcohol bottles to dip into a
bowl, wash by brushing it off, repeating until a final rinse w/ clean
brush/alcohol for same comes approximate to very clean.

Leave it so stacked on fresh newspapers until very dry. Rotating as
necessary. Thick dust to electronics is an insulator for retaining
heat for thermal die molecular breakdown.

 

[John Doe]

Currently, I use compressed air, available at the local megastore or
probably any Office supply store. Since 3Ms version is made in China
(and it sucks anyway), I buy the generic brand that's cheaper and
comes from the same place. If they both come from China, there's
little difference between a name brand and the store brand.

Compressed air works very well. Not sure about the leaks Paul
mentioned, but I will keep that mind when I buy multiple cans.

Compressed air works great for other things too, like blowing away
metal sawdust when metalworking (outside).

 

[larrymoencurly]

I noticed that my cards and boards are covered in dust.

I have no compressed air (I could blow on them), what is
the safest way to clean boards (cables, etc).

Close your eyes and blow on them. If you have any
optical disk drives or one of those new-fangled
floppy disk drives, it wouldn't hurt to remove them
first, to prevent dust from getting into them.

Don't brush the boards because brushes generate static.

Don't vacuum them because vacuum cleaner brushes generate static.

 

[Flasherly]

On Sat, 20 Apr 2013 05:31:12 -0700 (PDT),

Ps. I know that static can damage components.

But when a computer is running doesn't the electric and magnetic
fields generate static?

-
Sure. Lot's of static fields. Loads and loads. That's why they have
to be transparently painted clearly, so you can't readily see them
running nakedly around on the MB with great and heaping handfuls,
holding their blue and red balls of static. No doubt they'd be
grinning in beatification, showing them off, if you actually could,
though.

Before they were painted it was a horrible thing to imagine. I used
to catch static fields out late in the night hunting individually
socketed memory chips. All they needed was one to kill a whole bank
of memory. Whole bloody rows at a time. The situation was entirely
out of hand, whereupon the gods put their heads together and invented
clear varnish.

 

[John Doe]

They make canned compressed air, but this kind of
thing is a relatively expensive way to clean large
objects. This is suited for perhaps working on
camera lenses. The worst part about these particular
products, is the seal on the can may leak. At work,
we might buy a case of these, and near the end of the
case, pulling new cans from the box would find them
largely empty. The air coming from cans like this,
can be cold (sub-ambient). While this article mentions
difluroethane, they fill these cans with other things
now, because the original propellant affected the
ozone layer.

I love compressed air. It's very useful for woodworking and
metalworking outside. Also for blowing dust out of connectors. For
blowing dust off of various household things. The local megastore
sells Ultra Duster, powerful stuff. Use in short blasts, always as
short as possible, to conserve it. Also, hold the can upright as
possible. Otherwise liquid is sprayed out. Apparently that can happen
at least until a significant amount of the compressed air is used.
Bending the straw is better than tipping the can. I'm sure you know,
but... The air comes from a liquid. So I think the pressure remains
fairly constant. It's not like there's a relatively huge amount of
pressure to begin with that would cause a new can to leak air. Still,
shelf life is a good question. I guess it would depend on the
technology. I think there are lots of compressed liquids and gases
that have long shelf lives.

 

[Paul]

I love compressed air. It's very useful for woodworking and
metalworking outside. Also for blowing dust out of connectors. For
blowing dust off of various household things. The local megastore
sells Ultra Duster, powerful stuff. Use in short blasts, always as
short as possible, to conserve it. Also, hold the can upright as
possible. Otherwise liquid is sprayed out. Apparently that can happen
at least until a significant amount of the compressed air is used.
Bending the straw is better than tipping the can. I'm sure you know,
but... The air comes from a liquid. So I think the pressure remains
fairly constant. It's not like there's a relatively huge amount of
pressure to begin with that would cause a new can to leak air. Still,
shelf life is a good question. I guess it would depend on the
technology. I think there are lots of compressed liquids and gases
that have long shelf lives.

Of all the spray can applicators I've used, only the "compressed
air" cans leaked.

Paul