CD Writing Errors


M

Marc T.

Hello,

I have a Toshiba CD/DVD Burner SD-R5372 with firmware TU55. I have been
trying to burn some ISO files using both Nero and CDBurnerXP Pro 3. With
both programs, I will get either an immediate writing error (usually
along the lines of "BUS DEVICE RESET FUNCTION OCCURRED"). This was when
I was burning @ 24x with Memorex Ultra-Speed CD-RWs. When I kicked the
speed down to 16x, I got the same result. I finally dropped to the
minimum of 12x with a successful burn, but tons of errors on the CD
(Nero found 42,000 halfway through the checking).

I have an AMD Athlon XP 2800+, 200GB hard drive, 512 MB RAM, and a 350W
power supply unit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. As of finishing writing this, I tried a brand X CD-RW (4x speed
max) and got an I/O error with DVD Decrypter -> ISO Write.
 
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C

CWatters

Marc T. said:
Hello,

I have a Toshiba CD/DVD Burner SD-R5372 with firmware TU55. I have been
trying to burn some ISO files using both Nero and CDBurnerXP Pro 3. With
both programs, I will get either an immediate writing error (usually
along the lines of "BUS DEVICE RESET FUNCTION OCCURRED"). This was when
I was burning @ 24x with Memorex Ultra-Speed CD-RWs. When I kicked the
speed down to 16x, I got the same result. I finally dropped to the
minimum of 12x with a successful burn, but tons of errors on the CD
(Nero found 42,000 halfway through the checking).

I have an AMD Athlon XP 2800+, 200GB hard drive, 512 MB RAM, and a 350W
power supply unit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. As of finishing writing this, I tried a brand X CD-RW (4x speed
max) and got an I/O error with DVD Decrypter -> ISO Write.

That doesnt sound like a media/speed problem. Possible a faulty drive or
loose cable connector - the power connectors on some PSU are very poor
quality and the contacts open up with use? Is your power supply operating
near it's limits?

Otherwise see..
http://www.bhacorp.com/support/atapi/errors6.html#
 
P

Peter

Hello,
I have a Toshiba CD/DVD Burner SD-R5372 with firmware TU55. I have been
trying to burn some ISO files using both Nero and CDBurnerXP Pro 3. With
both programs, I will get either an immediate writing error (usually
along the lines of "BUS DEVICE RESET FUNCTION OCCURRED"). This was when
I was burning @ 24x with Memorex Ultra-Speed CD-RWs. When I kicked the
speed down to 16x, I got the same result. I finally dropped to the
minimum of 12x with a successful burn, but tons of errors on the CD
(Nero found 42,000 halfway through the checking).

I have an AMD Athlon XP 2800+, 200GB hard drive, 512 MB RAM, and a 350W
power supply unit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. As of finishing writing this, I tried a brand X CD-RW (4x speed
max) and got an I/O error with DVD Decrypter -> ISO Write.

What motherboard do you have and where your DVD-RW is plugged in?
Any other device on the same cable? What is your CPU utilization during CD
writing?
Do you have DMA enabled?
 
F

Folkert Rienstra

Peter said:
What motherboard do you have and where your DVD-RW is plugged in?
Any other device on the same cable? What is your CPU utilization during CD
writing?
Do you have DMA enabled?

And how will any of the above result in device resets, Peter Ghost.
 
A

Arno Wagner

That doesnt sound like a media/speed problem. Possible a faulty drive or
loose cable connector - the power connectors on some PSU are very poor
quality and the contacts open up with use? Is your power supply operating
near it's limits?

Sounds like that to me too. Might also be too long data cable or low
quality rounded data cable (I had write errors with one).

Arno
 
M

Marc T.

I have an ECS K7VTA3 motherboard. My DVD burner is on IDE channel 2 as
slave, my DVD-ROM drive is master. I do have DMA enabled. I'm not to
sure on the CPU utilization.

I have tried using Windows 2000, Windows XP, and Linux. I have tried
re-using the CD-RWs because they are the Memorex "Ultra-Speed" (which
aren't cheap) and I'm reluctant to throw them away. I did try another
brand of new 4x CD-RWs and got the same result.

The weird thing is that when I burned a DVD+R, it worked perfectly with
no errors and the disk is perfectly readable.
 
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P

Peter

The weird thing is that when I burned a DVD+R, it worked perfectly with
no errors and the disk is perfectly readable.

Dirty/scratched CD-RW media? Did you try Memorex CD-RW's at 4x?
What about burning CD-R's?
 
M

Marc T.

No, we can rule out the dirty/scratched media- they're brand new. I just
tried a CD-R, I got to 25% when the writing froze (the progress bar
stayed at 25) but the elapsed time kept going. Nero ScanDisc said that
the data it actually did write was ok (green) except for some sectors
toward the end that were unreadable (red)- I'm guessing that's where it
stopped.

Also, this was after I switched power connectors and IDE cables on the
drive. After that burn, I decided to uninstall some adaptec ASPI drivers
I had installed for some program that needed them.

I don't know what to do now. I'd think that the drive was bad, but why
would DVDs come out fine?


Coasters to date: 8
 
S

Shawn Wilson

Marc T. said:
No, we can rule out the dirty/scratched media- they're brand new. I just
tried a CD-R, I got to 25% when the writing froze (the progress bar
stayed at 25) but the elapsed time kept going. Nero ScanDisc said that
the data it actually did write was ok (green) except for some sectors
toward the end that were unreadable (red)- I'm guessing that's where it
stopped.

Also, this was after I switched power connectors and IDE cables on the
drive. After that burn, I decided to uninstall some adaptec ASPI drivers
I had installed for some program that needed them.

I don't know what to do now. I'd think that the drive was bad, but why
would DVDs come out fine?

It is completely plausable that CD writing may be 'broken' for a drive and
not DVD writing... or visa versa.

While some things are the same for both operations (the motor, the eye) some
things are vastly different (the part of the firmware that does the work,
and some circuit paths that get used to make it happen). It could be that
one or more components in the drive are bad and they happen to be parts that
are only used for CD writing.

More likely that it's a software issue though (firmware) but I missed the
beginning of the thread so if you've flashed the drive then it could be
components.

Either way, new drives are $60 (my 16X DL Sony DVD burner was on NewEgg) so
if you've spent more than a couple hours messing with it, trash it and move
on. Sorry, just the wasteful American in me, but it's just too easy to
replace a drive now days.
 
M

Marc T.

Well, I called Toshiba...

They asked what the problem was, which model number the burner was, and
then what media brand I was using. Immediately after I said Memorex, he
said that that was the problem. He said that I did not want to use
Memorex media with the Toshiba burner. He insisted that this was a
diagnosed problem and that I would want to use: TDK, Fugifilm or
Maxell.

I've always thought Memorex was a good brand; they work on the other CD
burners in my house- why not my DVD burner?

Can anyone make this theory hold water?
 
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P

Peter

They asked what the problem was, which model number the burner was, and
then what media brand I was using. Immediately after I said Memorex, he
said that that was the problem. He said that I did not want to use
Memorex media with the Toshiba burner. He insisted that this was a
diagnosed problem and that I would want to use: TDK, Fugifilm or
Maxell.

I've always thought Memorex was a good brand; they work on the other CD
burners in my house- why not my DVD burner?

Can anyone make this theory hold water?

Can you test with non-Memorex CD-R?
 
S

Shawn Wilson

Marc T. said:
Well, I called Toshiba...

They asked what the problem was, which model number the burner was, and
then what media brand I was using. Immediately after I said Memorex, he
said that that was the problem. He said that I did not want to use
Memorex media with the Toshiba burner. He insisted that this was a
diagnosed problem and that I would want to use: TDK, Fugifilm or
Maxell.

I've always thought Memorex was a good brand; they work on the other CD
burners in my house- why not my DVD burner?

Can anyone make this theory hold water?

Well, back in the day with my Sony 2x CD burner I had problems with some
brands of discs... although it was usually just the $2 per 100 knock-offs I
found online.

Recently, I've had several friends have problems with 'color' discs because
evidently the color dye that they use is too transparent... (that's what
their support guy said)... but none the less they can write to any normal
dark colored disc, just not ones that are very light in color like the
orange or red ones seem to always be.

So while I'm not sure exactly what would cause it from a technical point of
view (maybe the dye is supposed to have a certain amount of reflectivity and
those particular ones don't) I can say that I've run into a repeatable
problem with a certain burner not liking certain discs. Maybe it's not so
much the dye as the reflection material underneath, but the color is
certainly a sign for these friends of mine... blue/green/black always works,
orange/red never works, regardless of brand.

My current Sony drive (CD/DVD -/+ DL) hasn't had any issue with any brand
I've tried so far, but like most out there I probably only use 2 or 3
different brands.
 
M

Marc T.

I actually don't have any other CD-R media in the house. I've always
used Memorex with my other CD burners with great results. I don't want
to go out and buy these other brands for nothing. I did try some other
non-Memorex CD-RWs, but again, those were brand x so maybe that's why
they didn't work. I don't know. Do DVD burners generally get poorer
results burning non DVD media? Might it be worth getting a dedicated CD
burner?

Thanks again to all of you for your help.
 
A

Arno Wagner

Previously Marc T. said:
I actually don't have any other CD-R media in the house. I've always
used Memorex with my other CD burners with great results. I don't want
to go out and buy these other brands for nothing. I did try some other
non-Memorex CD-RWs, but again, those were brand x so maybe that's why
they didn't work. I don't know. Do DVD burners generally get poorer
results burning non DVD media?

The key is allways the firmware. Writable DVDs and CDs are not
standardised to any reasonable degree. Hence the burner designers
need to test lots of media and put the best speed/power settings
into a table in the firmware.
Might it be worth getting a dedicated CD burner?

Personally I think so. DVD burner people may not invest too
much time testing CD-Rs. With a CD-burner that is not an option.
But that is just my personal opinion.

Arno
 
J

John Turco

Arno said:
The key is allways the firmware. Writable DVDs and CDs are not
standardised to any reasonable degree. Hence the burner designers
need to test lots of media and put the best speed/power settings
into a table in the firmware.


Personally I think so. DVD burner people may not invest too
much time testing CD-Rs. With a CD-burner that is not an option.
But that is just my personal opinion.

Arno


Hello, Arno:

Recall, also, that there's a comparative handful of companies that
actually manufacture optical media. The others, such as Memorex, itself,
are merely distributors, and can (and often do) change suppliers.

Thus, the Memorex discs you buy, today, may be quite different from the
ones you purchase, tomorrow. ;-)


Cordially,
John Turco <[email protected]>
 
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N

Neil Maxwell

Personally I think so. DVD burner people may not invest too
much time testing CD-Rs. With a CD-burner that is not an option.
But that is just my personal opinion.

I've had good luck with my various NEC DVD burners (1100, 2500, 2510)
and Taiyo Yuden CDRs. I accidentally bought a spindle of Taiwanese
Fuji CDRs, thinking they were Japanese TYs, and they are terrible on
my more sensitive CD audio readers, even burned at half speed. Lots
of skips and delays.

You can get them at www.rima.com, among other places. I'd recommend
getting the printable surface ones, rather than the shiny lacquer
ones, as the lacquer discs don't have an extra protective layer on
top, and the data layer will scratch off very easily. The printable
ones have an additional layer above the data.
 
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