Broken heat sink lugs on mobo

S

Simon

Hi,
picked up a customer computer as it was powering down after about 30
secs. Got it on the bench and checked inside, the heatsink and fan assy
were loose in the case. The mobo is a gigabyte with a 939 amd64 3500
proc. Two of the plastic lugs that hold the sink on are broken on one
side. Is there anything that can be done to repair this or is it a new
mobo ?
thanks for any replies.
 
J

JAD

Simon said:
Hi,
picked up a customer computer as it was powering down after about 30 secs.
Got it on the bench and checked inside, the heatsink and fan assy were
loose in the case. The mobo is a gigabyte with a 939 amd64 3500 proc. Two
of the plastic lugs that hold the sink on are broken on one side. Is there
anything that can be done to repair this or is it a new mobo ?
thanks for any replies.

this would depend on the type of damage. some MB's are not designed to hold
onto forty pound heatsinks ;^)

can you take a picture?
 
S

sdlomi2

Simon said:
Hi,
picked up a customer computer as it was powering down after about 30 secs.
Got it on the bench and checked inside, the heatsink and fan assy were
loose in the case. The mobo is a gigabyte with a 939 amd64 3500 proc. Two
of the plastic lugs that hold the sink on are broken on one side. Is there
anything that can be done to repair this or is it a new mobo ?
thanks for any replies.

Hey, Simon, on some mobos I've had with same dilemna, if h/s will catch
securely onto one side, you can usually use nylon tie straps. Be sure the
tie pulls the h/s away from the side that catches when fastening its other
end. Pull tie *across the top* of the heat sink Hope this saves a mobo. s
 
S

Simon

JAD said:
this would depend on the type of damage. some MB's are not designed to hold
onto forty pound heatsinks ;^)

can you take a picture?
thanks jad, yes I have got a picture I'll try and post it up somewhere
and link to it.
simon
 
S

Simon

sdlomi2 said:
Hey, Simon, on some mobos I've had with same dilemna, if h/s will catch
securely onto one side, you can usually use nylon tie straps. Be sure the
tie pulls the h/s away from the side that catches when fastening its other
end. Pull tie *across the top* of the heat sink Hope this saves a mobo. s
thanks for the reply, yes that might be an option :)
 
R

redkcir

I'm not sure if you got my reply, but FrozenCPU.com has retainers for
under $10. From the picture it looks like it can be replaced. The two
white lock pins may have to be removed from the bottom of the MB, but
shouldn't be to hard.
 
J

JAD

sorry hit send to soon

I think you can remove the backplate and replace the entire fan and sink
assembly
 
D

Davy

Never ever studied a CPU socket, if the bracket is separable from the
socket or not it's a new socket or mobo....or you are gonna have to
find a way of securing the heatsink and fan.

Plastic cable ties perhaps sound's silly but what else can you do to
save a otherwise good mobo, even making some spring clips one way or
another might be possible.... If it's a good mobo why not?

Davy
 
D

DK

Hi,
picked up a customer computer as it was powering down after about 30
secs. Got it on the bench and checked inside, the heatsink and fan assy
were loose in the case. The mobo is a gigabyte with a 939 amd64 3500
proc. Two of the plastic lugs that hold the sink on are broken on one
side. Is there anything that can be done to repair this or is it a new
mobo ?

I had similar problem with one of the motherboards and here is how
I fixed it:

Glue the heatsink onto processor! I mixed epoxy with a bit of graphit
dust (for theermal conductivity), used very thin layer and pressed
very hard on heatsink while booting the system and running video
encoding (to make heat and speed up epoxy polymerization).

I assume that if Arctic Silver does not interfere with epoxy
polymerization, it might be even more effective than graphite. But I was
cheap and wanted a solution right away.

6 years later, that machine is still up and running. It's not overclocked
and the temperature is only 1-2 degrees Celcius above that for the
same OEM combination.

DK
 
L

Larry Roberts

I had similar problem with one of the motherboards and here is how
I fixed it:

Glue the heatsink onto processor! I mixed epoxy with a bit of graphit
dust (for theermal conductivity), used very thin layer and pressed
very hard on heatsink while booting the system and running video
encoding (to make heat and speed up epoxy polymerization).

I assume that if Arctic Silver does not interfere with epoxy
polymerization, it might be even more effective than graphite. But I was
cheap and wanted a solution right away.

6 years later, that machine is still up and running. It's not overclocked
and the temperature is only 1-2 degrees Celcius above that for the
same OEM combination.

DK


I have a s939 mainboard, and the heatsink lugs aren't attached
to the socket itself. There is black, plastic, square piece that fits
around the CPU socket, and has bolt post that fit through the holes on
the mainboard that are around the socket. There is a plate that
attaches to the bolt post on the backside on the mainboard underneath
the CPU socket. The s939 heatsink/fan locks onto the lugs on that
removable black, plastic, square piece. On all the mainboard pics I
see of s939 mainboards, they all seem to have this removable heatsink
lug attachment. Couldn't the OP just change this?
 
J

JAD

Larry Roberts said:
I have a s939 mainboard, and the heatsink lugs aren't attached
to the socket itself. There is black, plastic, square piece that fits
around the CPU socket, and has bolt post that fit through the holes on
the mainboard that are around the socket. There is a plate that
attaches to the bolt post on the backside on the mainboard underneath
the CPU socket. The s939 heatsink/fan locks onto the lugs on that
removable black, plastic, square piece. On all the mainboard pics I
see of s939 mainboards, they all seem to have this removable heatsink
lug attachment. Couldn't the OP just change this?


yep as I suggested...............
 
A

anniewarbucks

Something else you might try is to grab a trash motherboard and break
the plastic off of the socket. the next thing to do is to start
melting the plastic to the broken areas to the level of the old lugs.
A good soldering iron with a heat controll is excelent for this as the
run of the mill will scorch the plastic and change the properties of
the plastic. . you then will have to machine the new parts to make
them functional. Watch the temperature around the socket as some of
the chip components around the socket might become unsoldered.
 

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