AZ11 multiplier change

[Poly-poly man]

I have an old FIC AZ11 mobo (with a Duron 750) that I want to overclock.
I've been getting good numbers from FSB o/cing, but my videocard is
starting to corrupt slightly. I heard that you can solder in jumpers to
support multiplier changes, but found no details.How would I go about
this change?

tia,
poly-p man

I've unlocked the Duron. The mobo is an az11, not an az11a or whatever.

 

[paulmd]

I have an old FIC AZ11 mobo (with a Duron 750) that I want to overclock.
I've been getting good numbers from FSB o/cing, but my videocard is
starting to corrupt slightly. I heard that you can solder in jumpers to
support multiplier changes, but found no details.How would I go about
this change?

tia,
poly-p man

I've unlocked the Duron. The mobo is an az11, not an az11a or whatever.

If you're jacking up the FSB, you're also affecting the memory write
speed. If you're using PC100, and you're running a faster bus, you can
expect issues. I'd go with either PC-133, or (hard to find) PC-150.
Yes there really is such a thing, Even though there's not an actual
PC-150 standard.

Also, That board can take an Athlon 1000Mhz (133FSB). I can't help but
think you'd do better with an unclocked Athlon, than an overclocked
Duron.

 

[kony]

If you're jacking up the FSB, you're also affecting the memory write
speed. If you're using PC100, and you're running a faster bus, you can
expect issues. I'd go with either PC-133, or (hard to find) PC-150.
Yes there really is such a thing, Even though there's not an actual
PC-150 standard.

Also, That board can take an Athlon 1000Mhz (133FSB). I can't help but
think you'd do better with an unclocked Athlon, than an overclocked
Duron.

That board appears to use KT133 chipset, which was not
stable very far above 110MHz (if that), and was eventually
replaced by KT133A for this reason.

To the OP, the particular motherboard does not change the
multiplier setting but it may not even be worth the time to
do this mod... you may end up raising the multiplier only to
find you need to lower the FSB (lower than you can get it
stable now) to ultimately result in lower performance than
if the multiplier had been left alone.

Plus, supposing you're lucky and get it to 1GHz or more,
it's still not a powerhouse of a system, it'll just need
more power and cooling. Anyway, Google search for something
like this,
http://www.google.com/search?q=Athlon+800+multiplier+solder+pin+overclock

I put the Athlon in there because fewer people were
overclocking (or at least fewer times did I recall guides
referring to) Durons rather than Athlons even when they had
same multiplier pins.

IIRC, during that era one could also use a pencil and
connect bridges on the top of the CPU. That might work
better to see how high you can get it, before the more
permanent soldering.

 

[Poly-poly man]

That board appears to use KT133 chipset, which was not
stable very far above 110MHz (if that), and was eventually
replaced by KT133A for this reason.

To the OP, the particular motherboard does not change the
multiplier setting but it may not even be worth the time to
do this mod... you may end up raising the multiplier only to
find you need to lower the FSB (lower than you can get it
stable now) to ultimately result in lower performance than
if the multiplier had been left alone.

Plus, supposing you're lucky and get it to 1GHz or more,
it's still not a powerhouse of a system, it'll just need
more power and cooling. Anyway, Google search for something
like this,
http://www.google.com/search?q=Athlon+800+multiplier+solder+pin+overclock

I put the Athlon in there because fewer people were
overclocking (or at least fewer times did I recall guides
referring to) Durons rather than Athlons even when they had
same multiplier pins.

IIRC, during that era one could also use a pencil and
connect bridges on the top of the CPU. That might work
better to see how high you can get it, before the more
permanent soldering.

It's not a powerhouse of a system, but it's better than most of the
stuff I get. This processor does have the bridges on top; that's how I
unlocked it. I also upped the voltage by .05v. I can't break any of the
connections (I tried ). I probably will just get a 1g athlon for it.

thanks,
poly-p man

 

[kony]

It's not a powerhouse of a system, but it's better than most of the
stuff I get. This processor does have the bridges on top; that's how I
unlocked it. I also upped the voltage by .05v. I can't break any of the
connections (I tried ). I probably will just get a 1g athlon for it.

I've broken connections on those ceramic carrier versions
with a nickel-diamond tipped dremel tool (bit). It was not
worth the time spent... it worked, and I wanted to know if
it was possible, but in retrospect any other method is
easier and requires less precision.

If you want to break them, remembering that it's permanent
(well, not necessarily since you can then paint on the top
with conductive paint or use a pencil then), you can just
short a battery across the two points. For example, take a
9V battery with a wire on each terminal, touch each wire to
the points, being SURE you touch the correct two. It may be
easier to use a multimeter with needle-tipped probes instead
of just pieces of wire, then while in 10A current range
mode you can not only burn through them but also by lack of
current, know they did burn through... or just do a
continuity check afterwards.

Again I feel it's not worth the bother to do it today, but
since they aren't valuable parts that also relieves some of
the concern about damaging something valuable. Have fun
with it.

 

[Dave H.]

I have an old FIC AZ11 mobo (with a Duron 750) that I want to overclock.
I've been getting good numbers from FSB o/cing, but my videocard is
starting to corrupt slightly. I heard that you can solder in jumpers to
support multiplier changes, but found no details.How would I go about this
change?

tia,
poly-p man

I've unlocked the Duron. The mobo is an az11, not an az11a or whatever.

I've run the newer organic packaged Athlon chips at up to18x 100fsb
(Thoroughbred "A" cores). The chip bridges are easily cut with a hobby
knife, masked with tape then filled with an insulator (superglue), and
painted with conductive auto-defroster window paint.

Used a sharp engraving pen to scratch through bridges in the old ceramic
packaged chips, followed by the sharp pencil bridging method.

IIRC you can run the memory at 133, but I don't recommend running the fsb
over 100 Mhz, not much gain, and likely to cause problems. Used to run five
of these boards, purchased for $10 each, in a cheap gaming lan. Had two with
Duron 750's running solid at 950 Mhz.

Dave H.
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