Old PSU

G

George Hester

This PSU has as the Motherboard connector a P8 molex. An inline connector
that looks like it has guide pins instead of a keyed molux. I am trying to
decide if I should just chuck it. Not because I can't use it, I can; but
because I tried a suggestion here on how to test a PSU and the hoped for fan
spin did not happen. This connector has 2 black wires next to each other
and next to one of the black wires a green wire. I hooked a paper clip
between the green wire and the black one next to it. Nothing. Is that what
I do to test an old PSU and so this one is fried? Thanks.
 
P

pen

George Hester said:
This PSU has as the Motherboard connector a P8 molex. An inline
connector
that looks like it has guide pins instead of a keyed molux. I am
trying to
decide if I should just chuck it. Not because I can't use it, I can;
but
because I tried a suggestion here on how to test a PSU and the hoped
for fan
spin did not happen. This connector has 2 black wires next to each
other
and next to one of the black wires a green wire. I hooked a paper
clip
between the green wire and the black one next to it. Nothing. Is
that what
I do to test an old PSU and so this one is fried? Thanks.

Not necessarily, but if you posted more details it might be possible
for someone to identify the supply and help you.
 
V

Vanguard

George Hester said:
This PSU has as the Motherboard connector a P8 molex. An inline
connector
that looks like it has guide pins instead of a keyed molux. I am
trying to
decide if I should just chuck it. Not because I can't use it, I
can; but
because I tried a suggestion here on how to test a PSU and the hoped
for fan
spin did not happen. This connector has 2 black wires next to each
other
and next to one of the black wires a green wire. I hooked a paper
clip
between the green wire and the black one next to it. Nothing. Is
that what
I do to test an old PSU and so this one is fried? Thanks.


You are talking about an old AT-style PSU, not the newer ATX-style
PSU. The old AT-style PSU had the two P8 and P9 connectors instead of
the one 20-pin connector, and the old AT-style PSU didn't have the
PS-On signal (pin 14, green). See
http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup/partsMotherboard-c.html for the
pinout of the P8 and P9 connectors.

The old AT-style case had the power switch go to the PSU to turn
on/off the power. The ATX setup uses a circuit on the motherboard to
tell the PSU to bring it up. See the photos at
http://snipurl.com/sol4 (newegg.com), especially the top-row rightmost
or 4th picture (click on it to get an enlarged view) that shows the
cable harness. Notice the switch is included that you affix to the
front panel.

The old AT-style PSU did not have the protection mechanism of the
ATX-style PSU that has the mobo tell the PSU to turn on (so there was
*some* load on the PSU). Good quality AT-style PSUs could be powered
on without a load but not the cheapies. Dummies were burning up the
AT-style PSUs and why it changed with the ATX-style PSU to have the
mobo control when the PSU powered its rails. With an old AT-style
PSU, if the fan doesn't spin when the switch is pushed (to turn on)
then the PSU isn't generating the 12V for the fan (i.e., the PSU is
bad). Check for a backside removable fuse or one inside (usually in
some clips so it is removable or soldered on long pigtails to raise it
an inch off the board to facilitate clipping the leads and soldering
another on in its place).
 
G

George Hester

pen said:
Not necessarily, but if you posted more details it might be possible
for someone to identify the supply and help you.

It is a L&C Switching Power Supply LC-250C:

Here are a few links to it first the specs:

http://216.239.59.104/search?q=cach...Power+Supply+LC-250C&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=1

Here you go I have a picture of the Motherboard connector:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290002668065&category=42019

http://home.nycap.rr.com/foryorisonly/2e_1.jpg
 
V

Vanguard

in message
Here you go I have a picture of the Motherboard connector:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290002668065&category=42019

http://home.nycap.rr.com/foryorisonly/2e_1.jpg


--- REPLY SEPARATOR ---
(only needed due to OP using non-recommended quoted-printable format
in Usenet post)

As noted in my other reply, the old AT-style power supply used a
direct switch to the PSU to power up/down. In my other post, I showed
one that had a push-switch attached to the internal wiring harness
that you affixed to the front of the case. The one that you show has
the switch on the backside of the PSU's case; i.e., you have to reach
around to toggle the switch on the back of the system case. Read my
other post. That old style PSU doesn't use the mobo's logic to tell
it when to power up or down. It simply uses a switch.
 
P

pen

pen said:
Not necessarily, but if you posted more details it might be possible
for someone to identify the supply and help you.

It is a L&C Switching Power Supply LC-250C:

Here are a few links to it first the specs:

http://216.239.59.104/search?q=cach...Power+Supply+LC-250C&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=1

Here you go I have a picture of the Motherboard connector:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290002668065&category=42019

http://home.nycap.rr.com/foryorisonly/2e_1.jpg

--

George Hester
_______
Sorry but my 72 year old eyes can't make any sense of the mobo
connector.
One thing you could try is go here and look at some of the connectors
there and
compare them with what you have.

http://pinouts.ru/pin_Power.shtml

The only thing I know for sure is that this
supply is NOT an standard ATX as there isn't a 3.3 VDC output.
 
G

George Hester

Vanguard said:
in message
Here you go I have a picture of the Motherboard connector:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290002668065&category=420
19

http://home.nycap.rr.com/foryorisonly/2e_1.jpg


--- REPLY SEPARATOR ---
(only needed due to OP using non-recommended quoted-printable format
in Usenet post)

As noted in my other reply, the old AT-style power supply used a
direct switch to the PSU to power up/down. In my other post, I showed
one that had a push-switch attached to the internal wiring harness
that you affixed to the front of the case. The one that you show has
the switch on the backside of the PSU's case; i.e., you have to reach
around to toggle the switch on the back of the system case. Read my
other post. That old style PSU doesn't use the mobo's logic to tell
it when to power up or down. It simply uses a switch.

Vanguard you will notice I used that encoding so in at least one Newsreader
that I know of the link to the Google site stays intact. So even though it
is "non-recommeded" I am sure you have done stuff that is not recommended
because it works.

OK let me try that and if still doesn't work...good enough the fan moved
which means it's good. Thanks Vanguard. I probably would have done that
but I undid the power switch and wasn't too sure how to put it back together
again and so didn't until you told me to.
 
M

manny

You are talking about an old AT-style PSU, not the newer ATX-style
PSU.

I can't be sure from the photo, but his PS appears to have an
ATX connector. I may be wrong.
The old AT-style case had the power switch go to the PSU to turn
on/off the power.
The old AT-style PSU did not have the protection mechanism of the
ATX-style PSU that has the mobo tell the PSU to turn on (so there was
*some* load on the PSU). Good quality AT-style PSUs could be powered
on without a load but not the cheapies.

First, that's not a protection mechanism but just a different
method of turning on the power. AT was an IBM PC standard,
and IBM simply specified a hard switch rather than logical,
or soft, switch for the power, unlike the ATX standard.

Second, whether or not a supply needs a load to run has
nothing to do with its level of quality but with its design. Few
XT and AT supplies I tested would run without a load on the
+5V, including high quality IBM, Astec, and Delta. One of
the few that would run without load had the smallest transformer
and heatsinks of any in the power range and no UL approval..
 
M

manny

George said:
Here you go I have a picture of the Motherboard connector:

I would say it's an ATX supply because I can see 10 pins on the
large connector, and ATX motherboards use 2 rows of 10 pins.
This PSU has as the Motherboard connector a P8 molex.
An inline connector that looks like it has guide pins instead
of a keyed molux.

I have no idea what you mean. Molex makes many types of
connectors, including for the disk drive power and AT
and ATX motherboards, and all of these are keyed.
I tried a suggestion here on how to test a PSU and the
hoped for fan spin did not happen. This connector has 2
black wires next to each other and next to one of the
black wires a green wire. I hooked a paper clip between
the green wire and the black one next to it. Nothing. Is
that what I do to test an old PSU and so this one is fried?

Was the switch on the rear of the supply turned on at the time?

Some supplies require a load to run, especially on the +5V, and
you can provide this with either a motherboard, disk drive, or
even a resistor (approx. 5 ohms at 5W or more) hooked
across any pair of red and black wires. Contrary to what
someone else wrote, the need for a load is unrelated to the
power supply's level of quality, but this LC-250C supply just
happens to be of of very low quality and is likely unuseable
even for testing most motherboards because it lacks the
4-pin ATX12V connector that many need.
 
P

Poly-poly man

George said:
This PSU has as the Motherboard connector a P8 molex. An inline connector
that looks like it has guide pins instead of a keyed molux. I am trying to
decide if I should just chuck it. Not because I can't use it, I can; but
because I tried a suggestion here on how to test a PSU and the hoped for fan
spin did not happen. This connector has 2 black wires next to each other
and next to one of the black wires a green wire. I hooked a paper clip
between the green wire and the black one next to it. Nothing. Is that what
I do to test an old PSU and so this one is fried? Thanks.

From the pictures this appears to be an early model ATX psu and not
have a P8 molex mobo adapter. The 20-pin connector is for the
motherboard. Anyway, a quick way to test the power supply before
paper-clipping the PS_ON (green) is to plug the thing in, grab your
volt-meter and stick the black end in a ground plug and the other to the
pin with the purple wire. You should be getting 5v any time the psu is
plugged in, assuming that switch on the back is flipped "on".

hih,
poly-p man
 
V

Vanguard

George Hester said:
"Vanguard" <[email protected]> wrote in message

Vanguard you will notice I used that encoding so in at least one
Newsreader
that I know of the link to the Google site stays intact. So even
though it
is "non-recommeded" I am sure you have done stuff that is not
recommended
because it works.

Do not use quoted-printable format for Usenet posts. Users of Outlook
Express like to use it but they are impolite to the rest of the Usenet
community. You post using the lowest common denominator as regards to
formatting to ensure everyone can read your post without having to
jump through hoops because it happens to look prettier to you.

For long URLs, many newsreaders will do the line-wrapping okay. If
the URL exceeds, say, 70 characters which means it may get wrapped,
especially as the replies increase and repeatedly quote the URL at
increased indentation levels, use snurl.com or tinyurl.com to create
much shorter URLs that point to the same place. The shorter
redirection URLs will always fit on a line (unless you shorten the max
line length to something like 20 characters).

The reason for not using quoted-printable format is that your post
will look like one hugely long line because that is what it is. Each
paragraph is one long line. There is no line wrapping within the
paragraph. The *physical* length of your post is probably kept (by
your newsreader) to within the RFC-recommended 998 characters for line
length but the logical line length exceeds that. The result is that
many webnews interfaces and newsreaders will show your paragraph
exactly how it is formatted, and it is formatted as one long line per
paragraph. That means the line extends beyond the right-side of the
window. For some users, that means they have to keep scrolling to the
right to continue reading your long one-line paragraph, then scroll
back to start reading the next long one-line paragraph. For some
users that still use command-line newsreaders or for those using a
newsreader that doesn't scroll or don't have big enough buffers, your
lines get truncated so the reader can never see all of your lines.

Do NOT use quoted-printable format for Usenet posts. It might look
pretty to you and me but it ****s over many Usenet participants.
 
V

Vanguard

I can't be sure from the photo, but his PS appears to have an
ATX connector. I may be wrong.

Yet the black rectangle with "I O" in white on it looks to be a rocker
switch to turn the power on and off. ATX-style PSUs use the mobo to
let them power up/down (and the front-panel Power switch goes to the
PSU). Like you said, difficult to tell from the small picture, so
maybe the "I O" marked object is a fuse holder. The title for the
auction does say it is an ATX-style PSU. Of course, this is probably
not a picture of the OP's power supply but simply a picture of a PSU
that he happened to find, so we don't know what the OP's PSU really
looks like. We don't know that "silverback", the auction's seller, is
also George Hester, the OP. I don't think the photo is for his PSU.
 
V

Vanguard

I can't be sure from the photo, but his PS appears to have an
ATX connector. I may be wrong.

Addendum: Since the OP mentioned having an P8 connector, I doubt the
picture he linked to is for his PSU. That auction is for an ATX-style
PSU but no P8 connector is shown. Since the PSU is not inside a case,
I would think George could simply look at the PSU to see what was its
brand and model. There should be some labels on the PSU.

He did mention a green-colored wire. The old AT-style P8 and P9
connectors didn't have a green wire.
First, that's not a protection mechanism but just a different
method of turning on the power. AT was an IBM PC standard,
and IBM simply specified a hard switch rather than logical,
or soft, switch for the power, unlike the ATX standard.

Second, whether or not a supply needs a load to run has
nothing to do with its level of quality but with its design. Few
XT and AT supplies I tested would run without a load on the
+5V, including high quality IBM, Astec, and Delta. One of
the few that would run without load had the smallest transformer
and heatsinks of any in the power range and no UL approval..

The cable harness from the old AT-style PSU had 4-pin Molex connectors
(for 5V and 12V power to drives and such), the 4-pin mini connectors
(mostly for floppy drives and some tape drives), the hard-wired
switch, and the P8 and P9 motherboard connectors. From the pinout
shown at http://pinouts.ru/Power/MotherboardPower_pinout.shtml, which
wire do you see that would have the mobo tell the PSU to power up?
Might it be the orange "voltages stabilized" wire (aka the "power
good" line)? It's been around 7 years since I worked on an box with
an AT-style PSU and mobo. A "stabilized" signal could only provide a
"good" signal *after* all the voltages came up, so the PSU would have
to come up first and then the mobo maybe decided whether it stayed up
or not. Rather than have the mobo tell the PSU that it could come up,
the mobo could tell it to power down; otherwise, how could the orange
wire for stabilized voltages work if the voltages weren't yet at the
mobo? You can't tell anyone the power is good until you get the
power. When I looked at
http://www.technick.net/public/code/cp_dpage.php?aiocp_dp=cir_ps_at_001,
the P.G. (Pwr_Good) line is an output, not an input, to tell the mobo
when the voltages are okay. Since the orange Pwr_Good wire is an
output, just like the other pins for P8 and P9, from the PSU, just
where does a "soft" control line go back to the PSU? In this case,
Pwr_Good seems to be nothing more than a decayed signal off the +5V
tap. See http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup/funcPowerGood-c.html.

According to
http://computer.howstuffworks.com/f...http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup/func.htm,
the AT mobo didn't have a "soft" power control signal back to the PSU.
It used the hard-wired switch. I don't have an old AT laying around
to look at but this fits my recollection. I even remember having to
cut out and splice in new Power button switches on a couple of old ATs
to get them to power up since if they had a "soft" power up function
then the hard-wired switch was superfluous and you could bring up the
computer without it. There is no "soft" power on control from the
mobo back to the PSU in an AT-style system.

After a bit of searching, apparently some ATX-style PSUs include a P8
connector. Never seen one but do see them described by a few users'
posts. Don't know what would be the point unless they were letting
users connect an ATX-style PSU to an old AT-style motherboard (but
then what about the missing P9 connector?). I suppose before ATX took
off that there were these mutant PSUs that tried to bridge between the
old AT mobos and the new ATX ones.

Back to the OP, and since he probably does have an ATX-style PSU, and
since he shorted PS-On (pin 14) to a ground wire (black) and the fan
didn't come on, my guess is that he didn't put a load on the PSU, like
hooking up a hard drive or power resistor (8-ohm, 20-watt should work;
http://snipurl.com/sq6t) across the +12V. The PSU won't come on or
will shut down with too little load (because the PWM controller can't
provide the small duty cycles or pulses to the switchmode transistor
needed for low loading.).

If you look at the schematic of an example ATX-style PSU at
http://www.pavouk.comp.cz/hw/en_atxps.html, you can see why the PS-On
line is pulled up to +5V (when the 20-pin connector isn't on the
mobo). The PS-On line is pulled up to the +5VSB input through
resistor R23. If and only if the 20-pin connector is attached to the
mobo can the PS-On signal get pulled down by logic on the mobo when
the user presses the Pwr button.

The feedback line provides overvoltage protection, so I suppose the
voltage (at R25 and R26 between the 12V and 5V) is out of range when
the taps are unloaded. (Note: I just happened to find this schematic
and cannot attest to the quality of the unit.) According to
http://www.kellerstudio.de/repairfaq/sam/smpsfaq.htm, "In most
designs, the +12 and -12 V supplies merely track the 5V supply, and
are not separately regulated. They may soar to higher voltages anyway
if unloaded, but will be additionally increased in voltage by the
ratio of 5V output increase. Even though the rating of the 5V
electrolytic may not be exceeded, and still have a sufficient safety
margin, this may not be the case for the 12 V outputs." Also noted at
http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/smpsfaq.htm was, "Note that an
underloaded supply may be cycling due to overvoltage and there may
actually be nothing wrong! Many SMPSs (switchmode power supplies)
require a minimum load to maintain stability and to provide proper
regulation. This is typically 20 percent of maximum on the primary
output (the one which drives the feedback loop). However, minimum
loads may also be needed on other outputs depending on design. The
only way to be sure is to check the manufacturer's specs." While you
and I know the overvoltage is because the outputs are unloaded, the
PSU won't know that so it is trying to protect any devices that might
be connected to it. The feedback circuit may fail. There might not
even be one (and why it is a "cheapy" unit not based on price but poor
design). Without a load, the ATX-style PSU should not turn on. The
OP never mentioned putting a load on the PSU.
 
R

Rod Speed

Yet the black rectangle with "I O" in white on it looks to be a rocker switch to turn
the power on and off.
Yes.

ATX-style PSUs use the mobo to let them power up/down (and the front-panel Power switch
goes to the PSU).

Yes, but plenty of ATX PSUs ALSO have a rocket switch
on the back panel of the PSU adjacent to the power cord
socket, and this appears to be the case with this one.
Like you said, difficult to tell from the small picture, so maybe the "I O" marked
object is a fuse holder.

Doesnt look anything like a fuse holder to me and I cant
recall any of those with that I O marking on them either.
The title for the auction does say it is an ATX-style PSU. Of course, this is probably
not a picture of the OP's power supply but simply a picture of a PSU that he happened to
find, so we don't know what the OP's PSU really looks like. We don't know that
"silverback", the auction's seller, is also George Hester, the OP. I don't think the
photo is for his PSU.

That does appear to be what George is saying, that its a phote of his PSU.

And the motherboard connector appears to be an ATX 20 pin connector
too. There appear to be 10 pins visible, not the 12 an AT connector has.
There appear to be too many wires for it to be an AT PSU too.
 
M

manny

Vanguard said:
The cable harness from the old AT-style PSU had 4-pin Molex connectors
(for 5V and 12V power to drives and such), the 4-pin mini connectors
(mostly for floppy drives and some tape drives), the hard-wired
switch, and the P8 and P9 motherboard connectors. From the pinout
shown at http://pinouts.ru/Power/MotherboardPower_pinout.shtml, which
wire do you see that would have the mobo tell the PSU to power up?
Might it be the orange "voltages stabilized" wire (aka the "power
good" line)? It's been around 7 years since I worked on an box with
an AT-style PSU and mobo. A "stabilized" signal could only provide a
"good" signal *after* all the voltages came up, so the PSU would have
to come up first and then the mobo maybe decided whether it stayed up
or not. Rather than have the mobo tell the PSU that it could come up,
the mobo could tell it to power down; otherwise, how could the orange
wire for stabilized voltages work if the voltages weren't yet at the
mobo? You can't tell anyone the power is good until you get the
power. When I looked at
http://www.technick.net/public/code/cp_dpage.php?aiocp_dp=cir_ps_at_001,
the P.G. (Pwr_Good) line is an output, not an input, to tell the mobo
when the voltages are okay. Since the orange Pwr_Good wire is an
output, just like the other pins for P8 and P9, from the PSU, just
where does a "soft" control line go back to the PSU? In this case,
Pwr_Good seems to be nothing more than a decayed signal off the +5V
tap. See http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup/funcPowerGood-c.html.

According to
http://computer.howstuffworks.com/f...http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup/func.htm,
the AT mobo didn't have a "soft" power control signal back to the PSU.
It used the hard-wired switch. I don't have an old AT laying around
to look at but this fits my recollection. I even remember having to
cut out and splice in new Power button switches on a couple of old ATs
to get them to power up since if they had a "soft" power up function
then the hard-wired switch was superfluous and you could bring up the
computer without it. There is no "soft" power on control from the
mobo back to the PSU in an AT-style system.

But none of that explains why you said,
"The old AT-style PSU did not have the protection mechanism of the
ATX-style PSU that has the mobo tell the PSU to turn on (so there was
*some* load on the PSU)."

Why did you call it a "protection mechanism"?
After a bit of searching, apparently some ATX-style PSUs include a P8
connector. Never seen one but do see them described by a few users'
posts. Don't know what would be the point unless they were letting
users connect an ATX-style PSU to an old AT-style motherboard (but
then what about the missing P9 connector?). I suppose before ATX took
off that there were these mutant PSUs that tried to bridge between the
old AT mobos and the new ATX ones.

Back to the OP, and since he probably does have an ATX-style PSU, and
since he shorted PS-On (pin 14) to a ground wire (black) and the fan
didn't come on, my guess is that he didn't put a load on the PSU, like
hooking up a hard drive or power resistor (8-ohm, 20-watt should work;
http://snipurl.com/sq6t) across the +12V. The PSU won't come on or
will shut down with too little load (because the PWM controller can't
provide the small duty cycles or pulses to the switchmode transistor
needed for low loading.).

If you look at the schematic of an example ATX-style PSU at
http://www.pavouk.comp.cz/hw/en_atxps.html, you can see why the PS-On
line is pulled up to +5V (when the 20-pin connector isn't on the
mobo). The PS-On line is pulled up to the +5VSB input through
resistor R23. If and only if the 20-pin connector is attached to the
mobo can the PS-On signal get pulled down by logic on the mobo when
the user presses the Pwr button.

The feedback line provides overvoltage protection, so I suppose the
voltage (at R25 and R26 between the 12V and 5V) is out of range when
the taps are unloaded. (Note: I just happened to find this schematic
and cannot attest to the quality of the unit.) According to
http://www.kellerstudio.de/repairfaq/sam/smpsfaq.htm, "In most
designs, the +12 and -12 V supplies merely track the 5V supply, and
are not separately regulated. They may soar to higher voltages anyway
if unloaded, but will be additionally increased in voltage by the
ratio of 5V output increase. Even though the rating of the 5V
electrolytic may not be exceeded, and still have a sufficient safety
margin, this may not be the case for the 12 V outputs." Also noted at
http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/smpsfaq.htm was, "Note that an
underloaded supply may be cycling due to overvoltage and there may
actually be nothing wrong! Many SMPSs (switchmode power supplies)
require a minimum load to maintain stability and to provide proper
regulation. This is typically 20 percent of maximum on the primary
output (the one which drives the feedback loop). However, minimum
loads may also be needed on other outputs depending on design. The
only way to be sure is to check the manufacturer's specs." While you
and I know the overvoltage is because the outputs are unloaded, the
PSU won't know that so it is trying to protect any devices that might
be connected to it. The feedback circuit may fail. There might not
even be one (and why it is a "cheapy" unit not based on price but poor
design). Without a load, the ATX-style PSU should not turn on. The
OP never mentioned putting a load on the PSU.

And none of that explains your claim,
"Good quality AT-style PSUs could be powered on without a load but
not the cheapies. Dummies were burning up the AT-style PSUs and
why it changed with the ATX-style PSU to have the mobo control
when the PSU powered its rails."

Why did you say that when it's not true?
 
G

George Hester

Poly-poly man said:
From the pictures this appears to be an early model ATX psu and not
have a P8 molex mobo adapter. The 20-pin connector is for the
motherboard. Anyway, a quick way to test the power supply before
paper-clipping the PS_ON (green) is to plug the thing in, grab your
volt-meter and stick the black end in a ground plug and the other to the
pin with the purple wire. You should be getting 5v any time the psu is
plugged in, assuming that switch on the back is flipped "on".

hih,
poly-p man

Thanks poly-p man it is about time I get a volt-meter. Well that is next on
the agenda. I saved your post for furthur reference.
 
G

George Hester

Vanguard said:
Do not use quoted-printable format for Usenet posts. Users of Outlook
Express like to use it but they are impolite to the rest of the Usenet
community. You post using the lowest common denominator as regards to
formatting to ensure everyone can read your post without having to
jump through hoops because it happens to look prettier to you.

For long URLs, many newsreaders will do the line-wrapping okay. If
the URL exceeds, say, 70 characters which means it may get wrapped,
especially as the replies increase and repeatedly quote the URL at
increased indentation levels, use snurl.com or tinyurl.com to create
much shorter URLs that point to the same place. The shorter
redirection URLs will always fit on a line (unless you shorten the max
line length to something like 20 characters).

The reason for not using quoted-printable format is that your post
will look like one hugely long line because that is what it is. Each
paragraph is one long line. There is no line wrapping within the
paragraph. The *physical* length of your post is probably kept (by
your newsreader) to within the RFC-recommended 998 characters for line
length but the logical line length exceeds that. The result is that
many webnews interfaces and newsreaders will show your paragraph
exactly how it is formatted, and it is formatted as one long line per
paragraph. That means the line extends beyond the right-side of the
window. For some users, that means they have to keep scrolling to the
right to continue reading your long one-line paragraph, then scroll
back to start reading the next long one-line paragraph. For some
users that still use command-line newsreaders or for those using a
newsreader that doesn't scroll or don't have big enough buffers, your
lines get truncated so the reader can never see all of your lines.

Do NOT use quoted-printable format for Usenet posts. It might look
pretty to you and me but it ****s over many Usenet participants.

Like I said I did not use that format because it looked "prettier." I used
it to keep the link intact. For some of us it works but if I had posted in
this format, it would not have worked for anyone. There are a few quick
fixes. One you mentioned the tinyurl. Yeah that would work just didn't
think of it. The other is to put hard coded Returns in myself which I will
try to remember to do next time.

Vanguard you are not telling me something I didn't already know. I just
forgot I was too excited to see if that google link worked right and it did.
Sorry my enthusiasm got the best of me.
 
G

George Hester

I would say it's an ATX supply because I can see 10 pins on the
large connector, and ATX motherboards use 2 rows of 10 pins.


I have no idea what you mean. Molex makes many types of
connectors, including for the disk drive power and AT
and ATX motherboards, and all of these are keyed.


Was the switch on the rear of the supply turned on at the time?

Some supplies require a load to run, especially on the +5V, and
you can provide this with either a motherboard, disk drive, or
even a resistor (approx. 5 ohms at 5W or more) hooked
across any pair of red and black wires. Contrary to what
someone else wrote, the need for a load is unrelated to the
power supply's level of quality, but this LC-250C supply just
happens to be of of very low quality and is likely unuseable
even for testing most motherboards because it lacks the
4-pin ATX12V connector that many need.

All I need it for is to run some SCSIs in a empty case I have. It doesn't
have to do anything else. I have it going with a 300W supply I have which
is really over doing it but it runs real quiet. But that 250W really runs
quiet so it would have been better. I just haven't taken the time to hook
it up yet. That power supply molex you saw in the pic should just havve one
row of pin connections not two and it should have only six pin holes
otherwise I did not find the right one. My power board molux only has six
connections. I think the other six holds are guide holes.
 

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