P
Paul
Todd said:Hi Buffalo,
I have a Bachelor of Science in Electrical Engineering,
Cum Laude. Not bragging; just letting you know my creds.
David's observation is a good one. The Voltage does not
"Sag" as fast with the Lithium and would wear out the
filament faster.
Love LED flashlights. Have a 3 AA cell, all plastic one
from C-Crane that I use inside computer cases, etc., as
I am not worried about metal parts shorting anything out.
-T
To a first order approximation, you ask what the values
of battery voltage are. As a starting point. So I think
as an end-user, Buffalo is asking the right question.
If you connect a 3V bulb to a 6V battery, it doesn't
matter what the (commercial) battery is made from - you
know the results will not work out well. Many home experimenters
learn this, by ruining one of the flashlight bulbs in their
collection, by performing such a test.
This is how I got started in electronics. Testing batteries
and flashlight bulbs at an early age.
*******
If a person wanted info on how some of the properties of batteries
are measured, this site is good.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_internal_resistance
http://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/testing_lithium_based_batteries
The information is only useful, if you know what to do with it.
*******
If you know the basic circuit characteristics well enough
(or, if the flashlight filament will last long enough for
you to make some simple measurements), you can adjust the
circuit to work with a slightly different battery type.
R_adj
Vbat ---Rbat ----X X--------+
(approx) |
Filament (R varies with temp)
|
Return -----------------------+
You can use a variable resistor. As a kid, I had a small screwdriver
adjustable wirewound potentiometer, to use as R_adj, and that
worked fine for setting the flashlight bulb operating point.
I could trade off the amount of light, versus filament lifetime.
A flashlight bulb might be intended for 100 to 200 hour lifetime
(i.e. less than incandescent bulbs in your home).
You can also use Schottky diodes for adding drop to a circuit.
I used back to back pairs of Schottky diodes on my bicycle
bottle dynamo and incandescent bulbs, to adjust (balance)
current flow as desired between front and back lights.
(The dynamo [generator] is A.C., which is why diodes are used in pairs.]
With two six volt bulbs, one in back, one in front,
three pairs of these in series, made the back light a
bit dimmer, and allowed more current flow to the front.
|\ |
---+---| \|---+--- Back to back diodes,
| |/ | | drop 0.7V in an AC circuit
| | The exact drop, varies with current.
| | /| |
+---|/ |---+
|\ |
| \|
The diode obviously has different dynamics than a resistor,
and is for usage under known and relatively well controlled conditions.
The wirewound adjustable resistor, they're just not as available,
and a lot of them too cumbersome. And that's where a collection
of miniature diodes comes in handy. Most of the other wirewound
stuff I acquired over the years, was huge by comparison.
(diode types can drop 0.7 to 1.0,
Diode Diode depending on type and current.
|\ | |\ | Schottky 0.3V drop, but at low currents)
Vbat ---Rbat ----| \|--| \|--------+
(approx) |/ | |/ | |
Filament (R varies with temp)
|
Return ----------------------------+
At typical current flow levels, a diode may offer too much drop
in this application. But the diode idea is still useful for
lots of other things. I use it to set the fan speed in my computer.
I have a 12V fan, with seven diodes in series with it, to get
the voltage level needed to run the fan slower. So the diode idea
is still an alternative to clunky variable wirewound resistors.
The diodes still get warm, and you have to work out
the thermal dissipation to know if what you're doing
is safe.
You can use resistance wire of your own concoction, like Nichrome.
Which can be obtained from old toasters. If you can't solder to
it, you can try steel rivets as a compression solution. Squash
the nichrome against your connecting wire. Wikipedia has some
info on Nichrome resistance.
Lots of flashlights, afford no space or place to make adjustments.
The last flashlight I bought, is "solid" where it counts, and
there is absolutely no place in that flashlight to hack in anything.
But my older flashlights, I could add a solution to allow usage
of another battery type. If it was really necessary or desirable.
By the way, I have a Bachelor of Science in Being Practical (BSBP).
Paul