How to attach leads straight to battery?

[micky]

It seems my IBM Thinkpad's CMOS battery has died, and it's know that
it won't boot wihtout it.

I don't have time to wait for a new one by mail, plus I have some
CR2032's in my fridge. The flat things that look like litttle
frisbees.

The current one has the wires connected to metal tabs stuck (welded?)
to the battery on both sides. Is there a way I can do this without
exploding or otherwise ruining the battery???????

I see that Radio Shack has a clip that holds such a battery but I
think it's too thick to fit. I just tore apart a 16 year old
computetr to get it's battery holder, but it was defintiely too thick
(Does anyone want a kit to make a 16 year-old computer?)

Thanks.

 

[micky]

It seems my IBM Thinkpad's CMOS battery has died, and it's know that
it won't boot wihtout it.

I don't have time to wait for a new one by mail, plus I have some
CR2032's in my fridge. The flat things that look like litttle
frisbees.

The current one has the wires connected to metal tabs stuck (welded?)
to the battery on both sides. Is there a way I can do this without
exploding or otherwise ruining the battery???????

I didn't think solderign would work, but it occurs to me that
somewhere I have a mini torch, with one or two little tanks of gas, 2
or 3" tall, that is supposed to get very hot at a small place. Maybe
I could solder the wires to the battery with that???

 

[Don Phillipson]

I didn't think solderign would work, but it occurs to me that
somewhere I have a mini torch, with one or two little tanks of gas, 2
or 3" tall, that is supposed to get very hot at a small place. Maybe
I could solder the wires to the battery with that???

Can you confirm that the Thinkpad manual nowhere says
whether and how to replace the battery?

 

[Oren]

Can you confirm that the Thinkpad manual nowhere says
whether and how to replace the battery?

....or a picture of a CMOS battery with wires attached directly.

Thinking the OP is a Trollasaurs ©

 

[clare]

Can you confirm that the Thinkpad manual nowhere says
whether and how to replace the battery?

I've done it (in a pinch) with the silver defroster grid repair, or
silver Printed circuit repair pen to make the contact, backed up with
a chunck of appropriately sized shrink tubing to give mechanical
strength.. It is NOT robust - but works in a pinch.

 

[Paul]

I didn't think solderign would work, but it occurs to me that
somewhere I have a mini torch, with one or two little tanks of gas, 2
or 3" tall, that is supposed to get very hot at a small place. Maybe
I could solder the wires to the battery with that???

They use spot welds for a reason. A spot welder wouldn't
do nearly as much thermal damage to the CR2032 as soldering would.
It would probably ruin whatever functions as a separator between
the two halves of the battery.

None of the datasheets I've downloaded for CR2032, list short
term temperature as a parameter (like whether it could support
a solder profile). The max operating temp is listed as 60C or
70C, which isn't nearly enough for soldering, even with low
temp alloys. And the cell surface could be stainless, meaning
you'd need a solder that "sticks" to that stuff. If the solder
had a bit of silver added to it, that would probably push
the melt point too high.

You could think a bit more creatively than that. For example, how many
"holes or storage spaces" are currently available or unused on the unit.
Perhaps you can craft a 3V source, using a couple regular dry cells.
At Radio Shack, I could pick up a two cell holder, two dry cells
(1.5V each), then use the wire on the existing dead CR2032 assembly,
and solder that wire to the tabs on the plastic battery holder. It's
just a matter of routing the wire inside the laptop, using any
available holes. The battery pack would hold you over until the
new CR2032 assembly comes in the mail.

You could build a regulated circuit to run off the main battery,
but then, if left that way, you could dangerously discharge the
main battery. Some battery chargers will not charge a laptop
battery, if the battery ever heads below a certain threshold.

I think it's slightly safer, to just build a battery source
using dry cells.

Have you ever tried to find a 3.0V output three terminal regulator
in town ? That is probably a mail order item as well, and will
take just as long to get here, as the pigtailed CR2032 will.
The battery holder and dry cells, I can think of two stores in
town that can provide them for me.

Paul

 

[John McGaw]

I didn't think solderign would work, but it occurs to me that
somewhere I have a mini torch, with one or two little tanks of gas, 2
or 3" tall, that is supposed to get very hot at a small place. Maybe
I could solder the wires to the battery with that???

The connection tabs on such cells is done with a specialized spot welding
machine which avoids excessive heating to the metal which will at the very
least shorten the life of the cell, will sometimes kill it entirely, or
sometimes yield a nice explosion (especially with lithium I suspect).

Probably something on this page:

http://shopping.microbattery.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.708/.f

would be of help in your quest to connect.

 

[Tony Hwang]

Hmm,
Look hard you can find a battery with soldering tab.

It seems my IBM Thinkpad's CMOS battery has died, and it's know that
it won't boot wihtout it.

I don't have time to wait for a new one by mail, plus I have some
CR2032's in my fridge. The flat things that look like litttle
frisbees.

The current one has the wires connected to metal tabs stuck (welded?)
to the battery on both sides. Is there a way I can do this without
exploding or otherwise ruining the battery???????

I see that Radio Shack has a clip that holds such a battery but I
think it's too thick to fit. I just tore apart a 16 year old
computetr to get it's battery holder, but it was defintiely too thick
(Does anyone want a kit to make a 16 year-old computer?)

Thanks.

Hi,You can find a battery with soldering tabs. I am a LONG term TP user.
4 of them in the house.

 

[Oren]

The battery is not involved in the boot process.

Except to maintain date and time. The machine will run with the wrong
date and time.

Lacking a battery, one can enter the date / time or hit the enter key
to skip it.

POST is coming from the EPROM - battery not needed.

 

[Oren]

And for the boot sequence?

Um, bootstrapping?

 

[clare]

They use spot welds for a reason. A spot welder wouldn't
do nearly as much thermal damage to the CR2032 as soldering would.
It would probably ruin whatever functions as a separator between
the two halves of the battery.

None of the datasheets I've downloaded for CR2032, list short
term temperature as a parameter (like whether it could support
a solder profile). The max operating temp is listed as 60C or
70C, which isn't nearly enough for soldering, even with low
temp alloys. And the cell surface could be stainless, meaning
you'd need a solder that "sticks" to that stuff. If the solder
had a bit of silver added to it, that would probably push
the melt point too high.

You could think a bit more creatively than that. For example, how many
"holes or storage spaces" are currently available or unused on the unit.
Perhaps you can craft a 3V source, using a couple regular dry cells.
At Radio Shack, I could pick up a two cell holder, two dry cells
(1.5V each), then use the wire on the existing dead CR2032 assembly,
and solder that wire to the tabs on the plastic battery holder. It's
just a matter of routing the wire inside the laptop, using any
available holes. The battery pack would hold you over until the
new CR2032 assembly comes in the mail.

You could build a regulated circuit to run off the main battery,
but then, if left that way, you could dangerously discharge the
main battery. Some battery chargers will not charge a laptop
battery, if the battery ever heads below a certain threshold.

I think it's slightly safer, to just build a battery source
using dry cells.

Have you ever tried to find a 3.0V output three terminal regulator
in town ? That is probably a mail order item as well, and will
take just as long to get here, as the pigtailed CR2032 will.
The battery holder and dry cells, I can think of two stores in
town that can provide them for me.

Paul

There are a LOT of sources for the lithium button cells with wires
attached - with the wrong plug ends on them - in most major centers.
Most electronics supply shops or pattery specialists will have one you
can cobble the correct wire end onto

 

[clare]

Hmm,
Look hard you can find a battery with soldering tab.

Hi,You can find a battery with soldering tabs. I am a LONG term TP user.
4 of them in the house.

Just got rid of 3 370s, two 700s and 3 or 4 600s (Es and Xs) within
the last couple of months. Still have a T43 in my DJ box.

TOUGH machines!!!!!

 

[clare]

The battery is not involved in the boot process.

On a TP it IS. If the CMOS is invalid, many TPs will NOT boot -
period.

 

[clare]

Except to maintain date and time. The machine will run with the wrong
date and time.

Lacking a battery, one can enter the date / time or hit the enter key
to skip it.

POST is coming from the EPROM - battery not needed.

NOT true on many of the early TPs.. At least one of my old 600s (E
or X, cannot remember which) would not boot at all with a dead CMOS
battery, and IIRC the T43 would not either. Had to replace the CMOS
batteries on a few to get them to boot.

 

[clare]

Some machines will not boot with a dead battery in place, but will, with
the battery removed. Not familiar with Thinkpads, so not sure if that
applies in OP's case.

The ones that will not boot with a dead battery won't boot without
one either (we are talking CMOS battery - not main power). Some bad
main power batteries WILL prevent the system from booting - and
removing THEM will allow the system to boot. Common on Toshiba A100s,
among others.

 

[Paul]

There are a LOT of sources for the lithium button cells with wires
attached - with the wrong plug ends on them - in most major centers.
Most electronics supply shops or pattery specialists will have one you
can cobble the correct wire end onto

But I don't buy stuff just anywhere

I bought coin cells at the mall, from a "battery store",
and they were flat in a matter of days. I'm a little
more careful now, where I get stuff. I need to know a
shop has a good "turnover of stock", so I won't get
screwed again.

If some computer store here carried a pigtailed CR2032,
chances are it's been sitting in the shop window
for the last twenty years.

The same thing could happen with mail order, unless
the seller is big enough that their stock is fresh.

Hmmm. Too bad this is a "web only" item. I guess
it would hurt them, to have this in a retail store.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3307341

Paul

 

[Tony Hwang]

But I don't buy stuff just anywhere

I bought coin cells at the mall, from a "battery store",
and they were flat in a matter of days. I'm a little
more careful now, where I get stuff. I need to know a
shop has a good "turnover of stock", so I won't get
screwed again.

If some computer store here carried a pigtailed CR2032,
chances are it's been sitting in the shop window
for the last twenty years.

The same thing could happen with mail order, unless
the seller is big enough that their stock is fresh.

Hmmm. Too bad this is a "web only" item. I guess
it would hurt them, to have this in a retail store.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3307341

Paul

Hi,
eBay is a friend some times. I get all the button batteries from eBay.
I just make sure they are brand names.

 

[larry moe 'n curly]

It seems my IBM Thinkpad's CMOS battery has died, and it's know that
it won't boot wihtout it.

I don't have time to wait for a new one by mail, plus I have some
CR2032's in my fridge. The flat things that look like litttle
frisbees.

The current one has the wires connected to metal tabs stuck (welded?)
to the battery on both sides. Is there a way I can do this without
exploding or otherwise ruining the battery???????

I see that Radio Shack has a clip that holds such a battery but I
think it's too thick to fit.

You'll want to check if the IBM's lithium cell is rechargeable or not
because you definitely do not want to install a regular lithium cell
if the original is rechargeable.

Don't store those lithium cells in the refrigerator because it doesn't
help, and it's possible that dew will slowly drain them. The same
goes for alkaline cells.

I'd solder a flat strip of springy metal (brass, bronze, steel, but
not pure copper) to each wire lead and curve each strip slightly so it
will act as a leaf spring. Then attach them to the sides of the cell
and wrap the whole thing in heatshrink so those leaf springs will
maintain pressure against the cell.

If you decide to solder wires directly to the cell, and I wouldn't try
without practicing on something else, like 1" squares cut from a tin
can. First tin the wires and the sides of the cell separately. Sand
the sides of the cell, wipe with alcohol, apply flux (rosin), and then
quickly melt on some 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead solder to it. Do all
this so the solder sticks really well and quickly. Use a 30-40W iron
because anything with less power may actually do more heat damage to
the cell by not melting the solder as quickly. Then quickly solder
the wires to those solder pads. Cover everything with heatshrink.

 

[mike]

It seems my IBM Thinkpad's CMOS battery has died, and it's know that
it won't boot wihtout it.

I don't have time to wait for a new one by mail, plus I have some
CR2032's in my fridge. The flat things that look like litttle
frisbees.

The current one has the wires connected to metal tabs stuck (welded?)
to the battery on both sides. Is there a way I can do this without
exploding or otherwise ruining the battery???????

I see that Radio Shack has a clip that holds such a battery but I
think it's too thick to fit. I just tore apart a 16 year old
computetr to get it's battery holder, but it was defintiely too thick
(Does anyone want a kit to make a 16 year-old computer?)

Thanks.

First VERIFY that the battery is bad.
Don't solder on it.
Rip the tabs of the existing battery.
place them against the new battery, being careful not
to short the two sides. Use tape to keep the - from
shorting to the plus.
Tape the tabs against the battery.
Wedge it into the laptop with some foam to keep pressure.
Order a proper replacement and install it when you get time.

 

[jw]

(Googles, to look at a picture)

I'd order the proper battery, but to tide you over till it shows up,
just cut apart the shrink wrap on the old one, and cut the wires as
close as you can to the tabs, or actually cut the ears off the tabs. You
want bare metal showing on the end of each wire. As best you can, tape
them to the new cell from your fridge, making sure to keep polarity
correct. Gently put it all back together, and try not to bang things
around till the new battery shows up. This is not a high-current
application, so as long as it is good metal-to-metal contact, and
nothing shorts out, it should work.

Of course, all this only works if you have enough slack in the leads,
otherwise you would need to extend them.

I have done home-brew laptop CMOS batteries like that more than once.
Some ended up being permanent fixes, since the correct part was not
available, or cost more than entire laptop was worth.

I have an IBM Thinkpad too, and my battery is also junk. I bought the
computer used. It's a T43. The battery was dead days later. There
was a warranty, but the company refused to send me the battery, said I
had to mail in the computer. Well, first off the cost of mailing was
more than a battery, and what about my personal data. No thanks !!!!

I live in a rural area and stuff like this is not sold anywhere
nearby. I also refuse to shop ebay ever since they stopped accepting
money orders about 3 or 4 years ago. There's no way in hell that I'll
give my banking info to Paypal.

Anyhow, I have the same problem. I just leave the computer plugged in
all the time. If I take it somewhere, I plug it inot my car inverter.
That solved the problem. But I would like to eventually find a means
to make a socket for a standard CR2032 battery. But thats a cold
weather project.

Oner last comment. I have found that all the IBM computers I have
had, including my desktop computer which I am using right now, are
well built, but all of them seem to have Bios battery issues. In my
desktop puter I have to replace the battery at least twice a year. I
dont mind that so much, but having specialty batteries with wires are
a major inconvenience and a very stupid design.