Will the AMD64 3200+ work with only an Antec 300 Watt PSU?

[Wayne Wastier]

I think I probably need to update my PSU, but... my funds are little short
this month, and so I wonder if it will work with my present PSU.


Antec 300 Watt Model #P-303XP
ABIT K8T800 KV8-MAX3 Retail
AMD64 3200+ Retail


Wayne

 

[Wes Newell]

I think I probably need to update my PSU, but... my funds are little short
this month, and so I wonder if it will work with my present PSU.


Antec 300 Watt Model #P-303XP
ABIT K8T800 KV8-MAX3 Retail
AMD64 3200+ Retail

I doubt it. Mine wouldn't work on a 400watt that I ran my XP system on.
Not even close. I'm still using it in my XP system though without a
problem. For the 64 system I ordered 3 new PSU's, a 500W, 550W, and 600W.
The 500W was a Power Magic and it worked fine as did the others which were
Lead Power. The 500W was $15 shipped from amamax.com. So if you can scrape
up $15 you're in business. The 400W that didn't work was a Powerline.

http://www.amamax.com/psspecial2fnlp6100e.html

 

[goblin]

I doubt it. Mine wouldn't work on a 400watt that I ran my XP system
on. Not even close. I'm still using it in my XP system though without
a problem. For the 64 system I ordered 3 new PSU's, a 500W, 550W, and
600W. The 500W was a Power Magic and it worked fine as did the others
which were Lead Power. The 500W was $15 shipped from amamax.com. So if
you can scrape up $15 you're in business. The 400W that didn't work
was a Powerline.

http://www.amamax.com/psspecial2fnlp6100e.html

I have a 450W powering a64 3200+, 4 hard drives, cd burner, dvd burner,
wintv card, and usb camera. No problems and almost no heat either.

 

[Angry American]

I have a 450W powering a64 3200+, 4 hard drives, cd burner, dvd
burner, wintv card, and usb camera. No problems and almost no heat
either.

You probably don't have a 15 dollar cheap ass PSU either like Wes. You get
what you pay for. Most cheap PSU's ratings are usually junk, and in the real
world a 500 watt PSU would only put out 250 to 300 in normal room
temperatures. PC Power and Cooling is the only way to go for clean as
advertised power. There are two things a person should never skimp on in
building a PC, the PSU, and the Case. The case will be with you for several
systems, so it better be good, and your PSU as well is the "base" of your
system. Get a cheap one, and your system no matter how bad assed will still
be only mediocre. Spend the money on the basics, and your reliability and
satisfaction will be a lot better.

Dan

Dan

 

[Jason Cothran]

| I think I probably need to update my PSU, but... my funds are little short
| this month, and so I wonder if it will work with my present PSU.
|
|
| Antec 300 Watt Model #P-303XP
| ABIT K8T800 KV8-MAX3 Retail
| AMD64 3200+ Retail
|
|

If it is a GOOD 300w power supply with a true rating, then yes, it will work
flawlessly. If it is a cheap power "300w" power supply, then it is probably
only about 180-200 in real world conditions at best. I have a A64 3200+
running on a 350w enermax power supply without a hitch. Of note, that PC
also has DVD burner and DVD-rom, ATI 9800XT, two SATA hard drives, 4 90mm
fans, and one 80mm fan plugged directly in. I am not sure of the rating
system Antec uses, but there goods are typically respectable.

 

[joey]

I think I probably need to update my PSU, but... my funds are little short
this month, and so I wonder if it will work with my present PSU.


Antec 300 Watt Model #P-303XP
ABIT K8T800 KV8-MAX3 Retail
AMD64 3200+ Retail


Wayne

I recall seeing a notice that you need at least 16A +12.

hmm.. maybe that was 18

 

[Wayne Wastier]

Thanks Jason. Here are the specs:

http://www.antec-inc.com/specs/p303xp_spe.html

 

[General Schvantzkoph]

Thanks Jason. Here are the specs:

http://www.antec-inc.com/specs/p303xp_spe.html

It looks a little undersized. Does it have the extra 4 pin 12V connector?
(the 4 pin connector is on "P4" compatible supplies, you'll need it for an
AMD64 system also).

 

[Wayne Wastier]

It looks a little undersized. Does it have the extra 4 pin 12V connector?
(the 4 pin connector is on "P4" compatible supplies, you'll need it for an
AMD64 system also).

Yes, it has that, and the other connector for AMD boards.

 

[Wes Newell]

Thanks Jason. Here are the specs:

http://www.antec-inc.com/specs/p303xp_spe.html

Might work. Might work for a while and then blow due to overload. If
you don't have a spare, get another PSU and keep this for a spare. All
three of the ones I listed work, The 400W that didn't was weak on the +12v
line. Using an old AT PSU to power everything except the MB allowed the MB
to boot, so it was oviously a PSU problem. I tested all of the new PSU's
and they all worked fine with stable voltages, so if you've in a money
pinch.....
And that old saying that you get what you pay for is just that, an old
saying. In real life, it's BS. The cost has nothing to do with the quality
of the product. This has been proven hundreds of times.

 

[goblin]

You probably don't have a 15 dollar cheap ass PSU either like Wes. You
get what you pay for. Most cheap PSU's ratings are usually junk, and
in the real world a 500 watt PSU would only put out 250 to 300 in
normal room temperatures. PC Power and Cooling is the only way to go
for clean as advertised power. There are two things a person should
never skimp on in building a PC, the PSU, and the Case. The case will
be with you for several systems, so it better be good, and your PSU as
well is the "base" of your system. Get a cheap one, and your system no
matter how bad assed will still be only mediocre. Spend the money on
the basics, and your reliability and satisfaction will be a lot
better.

Dan

Dan

True. I have a Raidmax case, $125 and worth every penny.

The only gripe I have is it didn't come with enough power connectors. I
had to add a couple extras myself since I didn't feel like driving 20
miles for just a couple Y-adapters.

 

[Wes Newell]

You probably don't have a 15 dollar cheap ass PSU either like Wes. You get
what you pay for.

With this statement, you should change your handle to stupid American. And
the $15 PSU works just fine. It was the old 400W that didn't.

Most cheap PSU's ratings are usually junk, and in the real
world a 500 watt PSU would only put out 250 to 300 in normal room
temperatures.

You said it, so prove it. All PSU's that carry UL and all the other
ratings from all the other countries have to match the ratings to get
aproval. Not to say their aren't some bad units out there, but the
majority meet the specs And even if they're a little low, one can afford
to buy a larger rated PSU when they are cheap.

PC Power and Cooling is the only way to go for clean as advertised
power.

A self indulging statement if I ever saw one.

There are two things a person should never skimp on in building a
PC, the PSU, and the Case. The case will be with you for several
systems, so it better be good, and your PSU as well is the "base" of
your system. Get a cheap one, and your system no matter how bad assed
will still be only mediocre. Spend the money on the basics, and your
reliability and satisfaction will be a lot better.

So when am I supposed to start having problems with my test system that
doesn't even have a case? Give me a break. And it's been running on a $4
PSU for over 5 years. Hmmm....

You're right about one thing. One shouldn't skimp on the PSU or ram for
that matter. But not money wise, rating wise. If you think you need a 300W
psu, buy a 500W or higher. If you think you need PC3200 ram because that
what your MB states as supporting, buy PC3700 or faster. That way if you
need more speed or power, it's there.

 

[Wayne Wastier]

Might work. Might work for a while and then blow due to overload. If
you don't have a spare, get another PSU and keep this for a spare. All
three of the ones I listed work, The 400W that didn't was weak on the +12v
line. Using an old AT PSU to power everything except the MB allowed the MB
to boot, so it was oviously a PSU problem. I tested all of the new PSU's
and they all worked fine with stable voltages, so if you've in a money
pinch.....
And that old saying that you get what you pay for is just that, an old
saying. In real life, it's BS. The cost has nothing to do with the quality
of the product. This has been proven hundreds of times.

Thanks. I know what you mean. Intel's Pentium 1.7ghz chip runs slower than
my Athlon 1800+, and much slower than my Athlon Barton 2600+, especially
when I over clock it to 3000+ <g> And I paid more for the 1.7 Pentium chip
back when I purchased it over a year ago than I did for both Athlon Chips
together. LOL

However, I have decided on getting a PSU that is on the list from the list
posted at ABIT, concering the mobo I am purchasing for this new cpu.
http://www.abit.com.tw/test_report/KV8-MAX3/10.php


Wayne

 

[Angry American]

Wes Newell wrote:

And that old saying that you get what you pay for is just that, an old
saying. In real life, it's BS. The cost has nothing to do with the
quality of the product. This has been proven hundreds of times.

Find a cheaper PSU with these specs then ;-)

http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/products/power_supplies/highperformance/turbocools/510/index.htm

In life it is true, you do get what you pay for. You buy a second rate
motherboard..it may have the same features as a top of the line, but what
quality are the components? I would rather build on rock, not on sand.

Dan

 

[Angry American]

With this statement, you should change your handle to stupid
American. And the $15 PSU works just fine. It was the old 400W that
didn't.


You said it, so prove it. All PSU's that carry UL and all the other
ratings from all the other countries have to match the ratings to get
aproval. Not to say their aren't some bad units out there, but the
majority meet the specs And even if they're a little low, one can
afford to buy a larger rated PSU when they are cheap.


A self indulging statement if I ever saw one.

So when am I supposed to start having problems with my test system
that doesn't even have a case? Give me a break. And it's been running
on a $4 PSU for over 5 years. Hmmm....

You're right about one thing. One shouldn't skimp on the PSU or ram
for that matter. But not money wise, rating wise. If you think you
need a 300W psu, buy a 500W or higher. If you think you need PC3200
ram because that what your MB states as supporting, buy PC3700 or
faster. That way if you need more speed or power, it's there.

Read the specs, and operating temps of any PSU, and compare them. Dollars to
Donuts the best will have the best components, and be a damn sight more
expensive. There is a reason why some items are pricier than others. If you
are willing to bet that a cheap part will last, then more power too you, but
for me, I buy the best I can afford. And that goes with anything in life.
Car parts, tools, etc. Quality counts, and usually saves you money in the
long run.

And by the way, no need for the personal bullshit, I was not attacking you,
so chill out a bit.

Dan

 

[Wayne Wastier]

Wes Newell wrote:


Find a cheaper PSU with these specs then ;-)

http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/products/power_supplies/highperformance/turbocools/510/index.htm

In life it is true, you do get what you pay for. You buy a second rate
motherboard..it may have the same features as a top of the line, but what
quality are the components? I would rather build on rock, not on sand.

Dan

I don't know, (scratches head) I thought it was best to build your computer
in a computer case? Will it work building it on a rock? ) ROFLMBO


Wayne

 

[Wes Newell]

Read the specs, and operating temps of any PSU, and compare them. Dollars to
Donuts the best will have the best components, and be a damn sight more
expensive. There is a reason why some items are pricier than others.

There's many reasons why one product might cost more than another, but in
todays world it usually doesn't have a thing to do with quality. When you
buy name brand, you hope you get quality, it could be you're just paying
for overhead cost of advertising, higher labor rates to produce the
product, etc. Price and name have nothing to do with quality of a product
any longer. That's 20 years or more in the past. Todays name brand
companies are after the bottom line. Smart advertising can get them that,
much like the $100 Athletic shoes that only cost $2 to make in china. But
hey, Tiger, Michael, Magic, and the other athletes sure like your money.

If you are willing to bet that a cheap part will last, then more power
too you, but for me, I buy the best I can afford. And that goes with
anything in life. Car parts, tools, etc. Quality counts, and usually
saves you money in the long run.

If you're buying by price, you're just fooling yourself. I've used
hundreds of power supplies over the last 20 years, and it didn't take long
to realize that the cheap ones did just as good a job as the name brand
ones and lasted just as long. Most of the systems I built ran 24/7 in
some unbelievable locations, like in attics where it reached 120F on a
daily basis during the summer. Janitor closets. Bathrooms, etc. Where ever
the moron customers wanted them because the stupid sales people would say
that's fine. So I underclock the hell out of the cpu and let them install
it where ever in hell they want. PSU failures were minimal, and name brand
or not didn't make a difference in failure rate.

And by the way, no need for the personal bullshit, I was not attacking
you, so chill out a bit.

So saying Wes and his cheapass PSU isn't personal in your books. Hmmm...
OK.

 

[Wes Newell]

Wes Newell wrote:


Find a cheaper PSU with these specs then ;-)

http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/products/power_supplies/highperformance/turbocools/510/index.htm

At Almost $200, it should have some good specs.
Is it worth what you pay for it? To me, no way. I'll stick with my $15
PSU that works just fine.

In life it is true, you do get what you pay for.

I've already addressed this. And it's BS.

You buy a second rate motherboard.. it may have the same features as a
top of the line, but what quality are the components? I would rather
build on rock, not on sand.

Give me a break. Most MB's are manufactured under the same condidtions
using the same components. Even name brand manufactures got bit by the cap
fiasco a few years ago. And there's really not that many MB manufacturers.
There's a lot of OEM boards that come from the same plant. More hype than
anything else. Wonder where cheap ASrock boards come from? Etc., etc.

 

[Wes Newell]

I don't know, (scratches head) I thought it was best to build your computer
in a computer case? Will it work building it on a rock? ) ROFLMBO

As long as there no iron ore in it, no problem.

 

[Erez Volach]

Might work. Might work for a while and then blow due to overload. If
you don't have a spare, get another PSU and keep this for a spare. All
three of the ones I listed work, The 400W that didn't was weak on the +12v
line. Using an old AT PSU to power everything except the MB allowed the MB
to boot, so it was oviously a PSU problem. I tested all of the new PSU's
and they all worked fine with stable voltages, so if you've in a money
pinch.....
And that old saying that you get what you pay for is just that, an old
saying. In real life, it's BS. The cost has nothing to do with the quality
of the product. This has been proven hundreds of times.

Actually, quality costs. But then, other factor cost too, and high cost does
not guarantee high quality. low price often does guarantee lack of quality,
certainly below some price point...
Within reasonable boundries, retail price is detemined by cost + shipping +
marketing + brandname reputation (percieved value). There are real world
minima for cost, unless you're willing to sacrifice quality.