WhooHoo, Nikon CoolScan slide scanner issue solved!

P

Phil

If you have ever seen your Nikon CoolScan rapid blinking during start-
up and the NikonScan application not seeing your device; then your
slide scanner needs some TLC (maintenance).

I took a real dog Nikon Coolscan that wouldn't budge and brought it
back to life; slow blinks (about 1 per second) during boot. This is
when the mechanism buzzes traversing in x-axis and autofocus z-axis.

It involved disassembly of the innards, but not too hard for the
mechanically inclined with some jewelers screwdrivers and Teflon
lubricant.

I'm willing to post the procedure and some Flicker pictures, if there
is any interest. And I cleaned the two front surface mirrors of dust
and grime too.

Everything works great now, sharp scans too.
 
D

deloid

Phil said:
I took a real dog Nikon Coolscan that wouldn't budge and brought it
back to life; slow blinks (about 1 per second) during boot. This is
when the mechanism buzzes traversing in x-axis and autofocus z-axis.
I'm willing to post the procedure and some Flicker pictures, if there
is any interest. And I cleaned the two front surface mirrors of dust
and grime too.


Sounds very interesting. Please post?
 
A

Alan Browne

Phil said:
If you have ever seen your Nikon CoolScan rapid blinking during start-
up and the NikonScan application not seeing your device; then your
slide scanner needs some TLC (maintenance).

I took a real dog Nikon Coolscan that wouldn't budge and brought it
back to life; slow blinks (about 1 per second) during boot. This is
when the mechanism buzzes traversing in x-axis and autofocus z-axis.

It involved disassembly of the innards, but not too hard for the
mechanically inclined with some jewelers screwdrivers and Teflon
lubricant.

I'm willing to post the procedure and some Flicker pictures, if there
is any interest. And I cleaned the two front surface mirrors of dust
and grime too.

Everything works great now, sharp scans too.

Which model? (And, yes, pls post phots)
 
E

Ellis Morgan

Phil said:
If you have ever seen your Nikon CoolScan rapid blinking during start-
up and the NikonScan application not seeing your device; then your
slide scanner needs some TLC (maintenance).

I took a real dog Nikon Coolscan that wouldn't budge and brought it
back to life; slow blinks (about 1 per second) during boot. This is
when the mechanism buzzes traversing in x-axis and autofocus z-axis.

It involved disassembly of the innards, but not too hard for the
mechanically inclined with some jewelers screwdrivers and Teflon
lubricant.

I'm willing to post the procedure and some Flicker pictures, if there
is any interest. And I cleaned the two front surface mirrors of dust
and grime too.

Everything works great now, sharp scans too.

I have a coolscan III which recently started showing similar symptoms and I
have been wondering what to do next. If you are able to send details of your
procedure to ellis<at>ellismorgan<dot>co<dot>uk it would be helpful.
 
B

Barry Watzman

Procedures for doing this have been on the web now for years and years.
Do a search on LS-2000 and you will probably find it.

One caution: The factory tightened the tiny screws so much that in some
cases they CAN NOT be removed .... you have to use a drill or dremel to
get them out and then replace them, but you can't find the correct
replacement metric (tiny, tiny) screws.
 
J

Jan

For my Coolscan II, a similar problem happened : blinking led, no
scanner detected.
Cleaning the scanner, by blowing all dust away solved the problem. I
guess the scanner could not
initialize itself anymore.
The design of the internal Coolscan II will always result in lots of
dust...

Later I bought the Coolscan III (ICE is a great feature, saves lots of
retouching).
This scanner could not be completely opened for cleaning because some
tine black screws could
not be removed (even though I had all the proper screw drivers, used
by a professional company!).

Jan.
 
B

Barry Watzman

Read my previous post. Even the Nikon factory service centers had
problems with this ... in SOME units, some of those 3 screws (the
problem is specific to 3 particular screws) were tightened too much and
can't be removed. They have to be drilled out or removed with a dremel
tool. Then you need to have replacement screws, and they are ultra
special, you can't find them (they are tiny, countersunk metric
flat-head screws). The good news is that for 2 of the 3 screws, you can
get by with a non-flat head, non-countersunk screw (and even finding one
of those, in a small metric size, is difficult). It isn't exactly
right, but it will work ok without causing any problems. But for the
3rd screw, you really are stuck ... you need the right screw. As long
as you can get at least one screw out, you can use that in the one place
where it really matters.

Usually, simply blowing out the dust isn't enough. They typical problem
is that the lubricant turns to glue after 5-10 years, and binds up the
mechanism. The real cure is total disassembly, cleaning and
relubrication. You also need to clean the optics, they become dusty and
once that happens, scan quality (even if the scanner is still working)
turns to crap.

The Nikon LS-2000 and later scanners are great products, but you have to
get them serviced, one way or another.
 
P

Phil

Read my previous post. Even the Nikon factory service centers had
problems with this ... in SOME units, some of those 3 screws (the
problem is specific to 3 particular screws) were tightened too much and
can't be removed. They have to be drilled out or removed with a dremel
tool. Then you need to have replacement screws, and they are ultra
special, you can't find them (they are tiny, countersunk metric
flat-head screws). The good news is that for 2 of the 3 screws, you can
get by with a non-flat head, non-countersunk screw (and even finding one
of those, in a small metric size, is difficult). It isn't exactly
right, but it will work ok without causing any problems. But for the
3rd screw, you really are stuck ... you need the right screw. As long
as you can get at least one screw out, you can use that in the one place
where it really matters.

Usually, simply blowing out the dust isn't enough. They typical problem
is that the lubricant turns to glue after 5-10 years, and binds up the
mechanism. The real cure is total disassembly, cleaning and
relubrication. You also need to clean the optics, they become dusty and
once that happens, scan quality (even if the scanner is still working)
turns to crap.

The Nikon LS-2000 and later scanners are great products, but you have to
get them serviced, one way or another.







- Show quoted text -

Hi All, seems like this is a popular topic, as its needed for legacy
scanners. I've practiced on three Nikon CoolScan III, LS-30, and they
all work great.

The procedure shows how to take out the smallest and tightest screws,
with German metric screwdrivers, with the brand and part number, what
is needed is just high-quality Philips #0 and #1 tips. Yes, one was
very pesky for the Z-axis (autofocus) stepper motor, but with the
proper tools it is relatively easy to do.

The procedure is 5 pages long with three pixs. Where should I put it?
I'll attach it with an email to the person in the UK.

Regards, Phil
 
B

Bob_R

Phil said:
The procedure is 5 pages long with three pixs. Where should I put it?
I'll attach it with an email to the person in the UK.

Regards, Phil

Hi Phil,
I am interested too. If there aren't any better suggestions offered, how
about in <alt.binaries.test> and a notice in here that it's posted there?
My LS-30 has the same problem.
Thanks!
Bob
 
P

Phil

Hi Phil,
I am interested too. If there aren't any better suggestions offered, how
about in <alt.binaries.test> and a notice in here that it's posted there?
My LS-30 has the same problem.
Thanks!
Bob

Any other recommendations to post this PDF, hopefully a photographic
site that somebody is webmaster for.

Regards, Phil
 
P

Phil

For my Coolscan II, a similar problem happened : blinking led, no
scanner detected.
Cleaning the scanner, by blowing all dust away solved the problem. I
guess the scanner could not
initialize itself anymore.
The design of the internal Coolscan II will always result in lots of
dust...

Later I bought the Coolscan III (ICE is a great feature, saves lots of
retouching).
This scanner could not be completely opened for cleaning because some
tine black screws could
not be removed (even though I had all the proper screw drivers, used
by a professional company!).

Jan.

Hi Jan and Barry,

Here are excerpts from the procedure, first, on screwdrivers:

1) Set of jewelers screwdrivers, needs both flat bladed and Phillips
tips. As a minimum, a set of 6 from Radio Shack $8-10 (Archer Japan)
will do. A quality set from Felo Cat# 280-907-06 kit of six double hex
shaft tips plus handle with knurled nut clamping chuck (Germany) $40
is better, especially their Phillips #0 size (UPC 4007157-507235).

A separate Wiha brand Cat#261 Phillips #1 screwdriver ($7 Germany) is
also highly recommended for its precision tip that fits screw heads
perfectly, even under high-torque stress and has a 3" long round shaft
and rigid handle for hard-to-reach mechanism screws. The Wiha tip is
machined so precisely that screws seem to stick on the tip without
being magnetic.

May need a medical-type hemostat, forcep or tweezer to pick out
dropped and re-position tiny screws. Available at an unusually
complete Ace hardware store, such as Seven Corners Hardware, St Paul,
Minnesota, (651) 224-4859 7corners.com, with an upstairs nationally-
rated catalog mail-order operation at (800) 328-0457

And secondly, some procedural details on using them:

N) On the bottom of the mechanism, there is a spring-loaded brown
bronze clip / spring covering the Autofocus Z-axis stepper motor
shaft. Using a Felo Phillips #0 screwdriver, remove the tiny screw
only, put in vial #4

It may be screwed-in tight, so use a like-new tip and lots of
persuasive but delicate hammering, pressure and torque on hex-shaft
(like an micro-impact wrench), remove screw but do NOT bung-up the
screw-head, may need assistance here as it can be a two-person job

O) using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, carefully pry-lift slightly
the clip and slide it off the shaft of motor, exposing the slot on the
end of shaft. The shaft is under the front-side of clip between the
visible metal screw ends of the motor mount

P) manually run the Autofocus up and down and lube the four bearings.
There are two short post-type bearings on the bottom of both sides of
the mechanism. And there are two fork type bearings that slide up and
down on the upper X-axis shaft. Also lube the four contact points on
the two leaf springs on bottom that provide return pressure on the
mechanism

It is considered that Teflon lube and manually working it is an
especially important step for the Autofocus mechanism. When moving it
up and down, observe to make it as smooth as possible, although it
will appear to be jerky at the ends of range

-----

Please recommend an established photographic website that would be
interested in hosting this CoolScan Service document.

Regards, Phil
 
P

Phil

I have a coolscan III which recently started showing similar symptoms and I
have been wondering what to do next. If you are able to send details of your
procedure to ellis<at>ellismorgan<dot>co<dot>uk it would be helpful.

Hi Mr Morgan, the document has been emailed as requested. It is 8 or
so pages long with 4 pixs. Any constructive criticism would be
appreciated. Regards, Phil
 
B

Barry Watzman

I absolutely assure you that some of the screws in some of these units
have been tightened so much at the factory that they CAN NOT be removed
with ANY tool. Nikon themselves is using a dremel tool to remove these
screws. I have used a drill (you only need to drill off the head; once
the head is gone, the screw body, undamaged, CAN be removed). Then
replace the screw, except that if you are not Nikon, you can't get an
exact replacement screw (these are tiny, tiny, metric Phillips head flat
head screws).

Believe me, I have the "correct" tools including zero and double-zero
philips head screwdrivers (and yes, they fit so tightly that it's like
magnetic but not). But when I saw that the Nikon service depot was
having to use a dremel tool to grind them out, I knew it wasn't just me.

[In my extremely unscientific experience ... I've serviced a couple
dozen of these now ... you will run into one or more of these extremely
over tightened screws in about 20% of units.]
 
B

Barry Watzman

I have my own document, made from a document on the web, but I'd like to
see yours also. Can you send it to me? (e-mail address removed)
 
P

Phil

I have my own document, made from a document on the web, but I'd like to
see yours also. Can you send it to me? (e-mail address removed)


- Show quoted text -

Hi Mr Walzman,

As requested, I have forwarded the Service procedure to your direct
email address.

I'd appreciate your comments on how to make it better, in text and
pixs.

Hopefully you and other posters can recommend a like-minded
photographic website and discuss with its webmaster to host it as a
resource for others.

Regards, Phil
 
E

Ellis Morgan

Phil said:
Hi Mr Morgan, the document has been emailed as requested. It is 8 or
so pages long with 4 pixs. Any constructive criticism would be
appreciated. Regards, Phil
Phil,
Your comprehensive and helpful document has arrived, I am particularly
busy right now and will not get round to trying it out for at least a
week. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, which I am
expect was hard won. Ellis,
 
E

Ellis Morgan

Barry Watzman said:
Procedures for doing this have been on the web now for years and years.
Do a search on LS-2000 and you will probably find it.

One caution: The factory tightened the tiny screws so much that in
some cases they CAN NOT be removed .... you have to use a drill or
dremel to get them out and then replace them, but you can't find the
correct replacement metric (tiny, tiny) screws.
Barry,
I had a quick look in google, a list of possibly useful URLs is below,
but none of them seem anywhere near as helpful and comprehensive as
Phil's document. If you know a better one could you tell us where to
look?
Thanks, Ellis.
http://www.nikon-image.com/eng/ei_cs/faq/ls30_th.htm
http://www.howtofixcomputers.com/forums/scanners/adventures-nikon-ls-2000
-land-help-38026.html
http://www.pearsonimaging.com/articles/howto/ls5000cleaning.html
http://www.vad1.com/photo/dirty-scanner/ls2000-cleaning/
 
P

Phil

Barry,
I had a quick look in google, a list of possibly useful URLs is below,
but none of them seem anywhere near as helpful and comprehensive as
Phil's document. If you know a better one could you tell us where to
look?
Thanks, Ellis.http://www.nikon-image.com/eng/ei_c...ters.com/forums/scanners/adventures-nikon-ls-...
-land-help-38026.htmlhttp://www.pearsonimaging.com/articles/how...vad1.com/photo/dirty-scanner/ls2000-cleaning/

Hi All,

Vadim Makarov, currently doing a PostDoc stint at a university in
South Korea, has graciously added the optic mechanism lubrication
procedure PDF to the photographic portion of his website. It joins
several other articles on Nikon CoolScan Slide Scanner maintenance.

It is at the bottom of his web page
http://www.vad1.com/photo/dirty-scanner/

Acrobat reader PDF file
http://www.vad1.com/photo/dirty-scanner/nikon-ls-2000-lubrication-guide.pdf

Regards, Phil
 

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