WD400BB controller board swap

J

johnnyzero

I'm trying to do poor man's data recovery on a Western Digital WD400BB
drive (40gb). I'm pretty sure the controller board is fried, so I went
ahead and purchased a controller board with the identical part # on
eBay. Unfortunately, it's from an 8gb drive, so of course I found out
after the fact that it won't work with my 40gb drive.
From what I've read elsewhere, I'll probably need to swap the firmware
chips to get it to work. Before I go ahead and do that (170+ pins to
desolder/solder!), I'm wondering if one of the other IC's could be at
fault instead?

Any help or advice will be much appreciated.

JohnB
 
R

Rod Speed

johnnyzero said:
I'm trying to do poor man's data recovery on a Western Digital
WD400BB drive (40gb). I'm pretty sure the controller board is
fried, so I went ahead and purchased a controller board with the
identical part # on eBay. Unfortunately, it's from an 8gb drive, so of
course I found out after the fact that it won't work with my 40gb drive.
From what I've read elsewhere, I'll probably
need to swap the firmware chips to get it to work.

Makes a lot more sense to get another working WD400BB
Before I go ahead and do that (170+ pins to desolder/solder!),
I'm wondering if one of the other IC's could be at fault instead?

Impossible to say if you dont say what the symptoms are.

Does it spin up ?
 
J

johnnyzero

Thanks for the input, Rod. I initially purchased another new WD400BB
for $45, but found out after the fact that I need to get an *exact*
replacement in order to swap the controller boards - mine is a
WD400BB-00CLB0, controller board part #2060-001092-006. The drive I
bought is a later rev w/ a different controller board - it doesn't even
physically fit on the old drive.

As I said in my post, I then purchased the correct controller board for
$30, but it's from an 8gb drive. I did manage to find a working WD400BB
- 00CLB0 on eBay, but the guy wants $120 for it. I'd hate to spend
another $120 on top of the $75 I've already spent if I don't have to -
plus the data I'm trying to recover isn't THAT critical.

Anyway, to answer your question: the symptom w/ the original controller
board is no spin-up. I've read elsewhere that this could indicate a bad
motor controller IC, but I'm not sure how to identify the chip in
question. I'd sure rather try to swap that IC before attempting to swap
the big 176-pin chip. I don't have easy access to a hot air rework
station to do the surface mount work, and I probably wouldn't wanna try
it the "old fashioned" way with a soldering iron.

best,
JohnB
 
A

Arno Wagner

Previously johnnyzero said:
Thanks for the input, Rod. I initially purchased another new WD400BB
for $45, but found out after the fact that I need to get an *exact*
replacement in order to swap the controller boards - mine is a
WD400BB-00CLB0, controller board part #2060-001092-006. The drive I
bought is a later rev w/ a different controller board - it doesn't even
physically fit on the old drive.
As I said in my post, I then purchased the correct controller board for
$30, but it's from an 8gb drive. I did manage to find a working WD400BB
- 00CLB0 on eBay, but the guy wants $120 for it. I'd hate to spend
another $120 on top of the $75 I've already spent if I don't have to -
plus the data I'm trying to recover isn't THAT critical.
Anyway, to answer your question: the symptom w/ the original controller
board is no spin-up. I've read elsewhere that this could indicate a bad
motor controller IC, but I'm not sure how to identify the chip in
question. I'd sure rather try to swap that IC before attempting to swap
the big 176-pin chip. I don't have easy access to a hot air rework
station to do the surface mount work, and I probably wouldn't wanna try
it the "old fashioned" way with a soldering iron.

The motor controller is a smaller chip, with several large
ceramic capacitors and often some inductors around it. In
older designs it will also have cooling "fins", i.e. broader
leads, solderd to the PCB. No spin-up does not necessarily mean
a defect motor controller though.

Arno
 
R

Rod Speed

johnnyzero said:
Thanks for the input, Rod. I initially purchased another new WD400BB
for $45, but found out after the fact that I need to get an *exact*
replacement in order to swap the controller boards - mine is a
WD400BB-00CLB0, controller board part #2060-001092-006. The drive I
bought is a later rev w/ a different controller board - it doesn't
even physically fit on the old drive.
As I said in my post, I then purchased the correct controller board
for $30, but it's from an 8gb drive. I did manage to find a working
WD400BB - 00CLB0 on eBay, but the guy wants $120 for it. I'd hate to
spend another $120 on top of the $75 I've already spent if I don't
have to - plus the data I'm trying to recover isn't THAT critical.
Anyway, to answer your question: the symptom w/ the
original controller board is no spin-up. I've read elsewhere
that this could indicate a bad motor controller IC,

Yeah, but it could be something as basic as a cracked trace or bad joint in
that area too. Both are relatively easy to fix if you can identify the problem.

It should be possible to work out what is broken with a CRO
but you likely dont have one and may not know how to drive one.
but I'm not sure how to identify the chip in question.

Its usually pretty obvious from the pcb, its the one that is
connected to what is obviously the wires that connect to
the rotation motor that has a decent heatsink to the pcb etc.

And it isnt that hard to meter the wires to the rotation motor
with that unplugged from the logic card, particularly since you
have another drive so you can meter a known good motor.
I'd sure rather try to swap that IC before
attempting to swap the big 176-pin chip.
Sure.

I don't have easy access to a hot air rework station to do the
surface mount work, and I probably wouldn't wanna try it the
"old fashioned" way with a soldering iron.

Yeah, it is possible to cut the pins off with a dremel etc
close to the case so you can desolder them individually,
but that doesnt help with the good one.
 

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