PSU failed, replaced and Mobo failed...now what?

E

EddyCurrent13

Seeking assistance to determine next course of action.

Original problem: Attempted to power on PC, started and then all power
stopped. Subsequent attempted to power on were not successful.
Presumed PSU failed, model is Turbolink Switching PS, model
CWT-420ATX.

Purchased replacement upon recommendation of Tom's Hardware, Antec
TrueControl 550.

Install new PSU, powered on and component on Mobo popped. Small,
black square component laying flat with two leads soldered to Mobo.
Kind of looks like fuse type item. Has lettering on it like 10N03L
and BB233.

I do not want to buy and install new Mobo only to find out that it was
the new PSU that contributed to the original Mobo failure.

Please advise on suggested course of action. Thank you in advance.

ciao...ec13
 
B

bronney

Seeking assistance to determine next course of action.

Original problem: Attempted to power on PC, started and then all power
stopped. Subsequent attempted to power on were not successful.
Presumed PSU failed, model is Turbolink Switching PS, model
CWT-420ATX.

Purchased replacement upon recommendation of Tom's Hardware, Antec
TrueControl 550.

Install new PSU, powered on and component on Mobo popped. Small,
black square component laying flat with two leads soldered to Mobo.
Kind of looks like fuse type item. Has lettering on it like 10N03L
and BB233.

I do not want to buy and install new Mobo only to find out that it was
the new PSU that contributed to the original Mobo failure.

Please advise on suggested course of action. Thank you in advance.

ciao...ec13
Click to expand...

You should check on each new purchase of any electrical devices that
it is operating at the voltage of your country. I popped quite a few
of people's stuff without checking the voltage in the back of the PSU.
Is it correct?

It might be that your mobo was bad from the start and wasn't your PSU.
Are you sure it's your old PSU that's dead? When mine went out, I
hear hissing noise whenever I turn off the switch in the back -
suggesting a leaking capacitor.

I have no experience in soldering mobo's, aren't they layered? Is it
even possible to replace that "fuse" you talked about?


-bron
 
W

w_tom

By your own admission, you "Presumed PSU failed" instead of
first identifying the defective part. That procedure that
identifies a problem faster was posted in two newsgroup
discussions at http://www.tinyurl.com\2musa and
http://tinyurl.com/32j4g
("I think my power supply is dead" in alt.comp.hardware on 5
Feb 2004). Still same procedure is necessary to discover 1)
if power supply is still working and if not, why not, and 2)
to learn if power supply voltages were so high as to destroy
motherboard.

A part exploded. Failure obviously worst case because most
failed parts leave no external indication. IOW you still
require a new motherboard (maybe because new supply is
defective). But smarter move is to verify power supply before
exposing a new motherboard to an unknown supply.

As another noted, the power supply may have always been
good. Much time and money would have been saved by first
learning reasons for failure rather than trying to find
failure by wildly fixing something. Trying to solve power
supply problems without, at minimum, the 3.5 digit multimeter
is analogous to spitting in the wind. However you are
learning that the hard way. At least others can learn from
your experience.
 
E

EddyCurrent13

You should check on each new purchase of any electrical devices that
it is operating at the voltage of your country. I popped quite a few
of people's stuff without checking the voltage in the back of the PSU.
Is it correct?

It might be that your mobo was bad from the start and wasn't your PSU.
Are you sure it's your old PSU that's dead? When mine went out, I
hear hissing noise whenever I turn off the switch in the back -
suggesting a leaking capacitor.

I have no experience in soldering mobo's, aren't they layered? Is it
even possible to replace that "fuse" you talked about?


-bron
Click to expand...


Thank you for the reminder. Yes, checked voltage setting (US) was
switched to 115V.

Perhaps it was the Mobo (Gigabyte GA-7VAXP) that was faulty but how do
I check which is the problem? I guess that is my greater dilemma.
I do not know how to troubleshoot this situation and am looking for
guidance.

Even if I had the part to replace, I wouldn't try it. It's just that
I do not want the same occurrence for a new Mobo if it is the 'new'
PSU which delivered the killing blow. How do I check this? There
must be a way to bench check the new PSU to ensure it is delivering
the power it is intended, within the expected ranges.

Thanks in advance.

ciao...ec13
 
A

Andy

Seeking assistance to determine next course of action.

Original problem: Attempted to power on PC, started and then all power
stopped. Subsequent attempted to power on were not successful.
Presumed PSU failed, model is Turbolink Switching PS, model
CWT-420ATX.

Purchased replacement upon recommendation of Tom's Hardware, Antec
TrueControl 550.

Install new PSU, powered on and component on Mobo popped. Small,
black square component laying flat with two leads soldered to Mobo.
Kind of looks like fuse type item. Has lettering on it like 10N03L
and BB233.
Click to expand...

The 10N03L is a MOS power transistor used in the DC-DC converter that
powers the CPU.
I do not want to buy and install new Mobo only to find out that it was
the new PSU that contributed to the original Mobo failure.

Please advise on suggested course of action. Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...

1. Replace motherboard, CPU, and power supply --- safest
2. Replace motherboard and CPU, keep new power supply --- almost as
safe
I'm bothered about the cause of the failure of the power transistor.
What happens if the output of the DC-DC converter is shorted? Does it
just shut down or does something blow?
3. Replace motherboard and power supply, keep CPU
4. Replace motherboard, keep CPU and new power supply
If you're going to do 3., you might as well do 4. instead.
 
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