overheating??

[p.mc]

Hi All

the other half's PC was crashing a couple of days ago whilst I was encoding
an .avi file to .vob so I D/L sisoftsandra lite (freeware) and run a check
of the main board on the "Hardware" tab. I was informed that the main board
was overheating, in fact it was at **97 degrees** (shouldn't be over 50).
So I took off both panels and the front of the tower to try and see what
readings I got then, but it was much the same. The only fans installed were
the CPU & PSU fans, I then shoved a little portable fan I had in the casing
and that did take 10 degrees off, but to my suprise I had shut down the PC
for around 4hrs and booted up and immediately ran sisoft, only to discover
the mainboared temp at **63 degrees!** Is this possible?

Here's a few quotes from the report;
-----------------------------------------------------------
Model : MS-7037
Manufacturer : MICRO-STAR INTL, CO.,LTD.

Temperature Sensor(s)
Board Temperature : 63.0°C / 145.4°F td
CPU Temperature : 24.0°C / 75.2°F
Power / Aux Temperature : 18.0°C / 64.4°F

Cooling Device(s)
Auto Fan Speed Control : No
Chassis Fan Speed : 1148rpm

Voltage Sensor(s)
CPU Voltage : 2.08V
Aux Voltage : 0.77V
+3.3V Voltage : 3.26V
+5V Voltage : 5.05V
-12V Voltage : 1.21V
-5V Voltage : -0.77V
Standby Voltage : 4.36V
Battery Voltage : 3.20V


Performance Tips
Notice 224 : SMBIOS/DMI information may be inaccurate.
Tip 2546 : Large memory modules should be ECC/Parity.
Warning 2518 : Mainboard temperature is too high.

 

[Richard in AZ]

Hi All

the other half's PC was crashing a couple of days ago whilst I was encoding an .avi file to .vob
so I D/L sisoftsandra lite (freeware) and run a check of the main board on the "Hardware" tab. I
was informed that the main board was overheating, in fact it was at **97 degrees** (shouldn't be
over 50).
So I took off both panels and the front of the tower to try and see what readings I got then,
but it was much the same. The only fans installed were the CPU & PSU fans, I then shoved a little
portable fan I had in the casing and that did take 10 degrees off, but to my suprise I had shut
down the PC for around 4hrs and booted up and immediately ran sisoft, only to discover the
mainboared temp at **63 degrees!** Is this possible?

Here's a few quotes from the report;
-----------------------------------------------------------
Model : MS-7037
Manufacturer : MICRO-STAR INTL, CO.,LTD.

Temperature Sensor(s)
Board Temperature : 63.0°C / 145.4°F td
CPU Temperature : 24.0°C / 75.2°F
Power / Aux Temperature : 18.0°C / 64.4°F

Cooling Device(s)
Auto Fan Speed Control : No
Chassis Fan Speed : 1148rpm

Voltage Sensor(s)
CPU Voltage : 2.08V
Aux Voltage : 0.77V
+3.3V Voltage : 3.26V
+5V Voltage : 5.05V
-12V Voltage : 1.21V
-5V Voltage : -0.77V
Standby Voltage : 4.36V
Battery Voltage : 3.20V


Performance Tips
Notice 224 : SMBIOS/DMI information may be inaccurate.
Tip 2546 : Large memory modules should be ECC/Parity.
Warning 2518 : Mainboard temperature is too high.

-----------------------------------------------------

There is no way the board temperature should be 19 degrees C higher than the CPU.
Do you know where the board temp sensor is located? Could it be next to or under the Video
processor?
Sounds like you need to get technical support from Microstar.
http://global.msi.com.tw/index.php?func=service
But as long as that sensor is reporting a high temp, your system will shut down.

 

[Paul]

Hi All

the other half's PC was crashing a couple of days ago whilst I was encoding
an .avi file to .vob so I D/L sisoftsandra lite (freeware) and run a check
of the main board on the "Hardware" tab. I was informed that the main board
was overheating, in fact it was at **97 degrees** (shouldn't be over 50).
So I took off both panels and the front of the tower to try and see what
readings I got then, but it was much the same. The only fans installed were
the CPU & PSU fans, I then shoved a little portable fan I had in the casing
and that did take 10 degrees off, but to my suprise I had shut down the PC
for around 4hrs and booted up and immediately ran sisoft, only to discover
the mainboared temp at **63 degrees!** Is this possible?

Here's a few quotes from the report;
-----------------------------------------------------------
Model : MS-7037
Manufacturer : MICRO-STAR INTL, CO.,LTD.

Temperature Sensor(s)
Board Temperature : 63.0°C / 145.4°F td
CPU Temperature : 24.0°C / 75.2°F
Power / Aux Temperature : 18.0°C / 64.4°F

Cooling Device(s)
Auto Fan Speed Control : No
Chassis Fan Speed : 1148rpm

Voltage Sensor(s)
CPU Voltage : 2.08V
Aux Voltage : 0.77V
+3.3V Voltage : 3.26V
+5V Voltage : 5.05V
-12V Voltage : 1.21V
-5V Voltage : -0.77V
Standby Voltage : 4.36V
Battery Voltage : 3.20V


Performance Tips
Notice 224 : SMBIOS/DMI information may be inaccurate.
Tip 2546 : Large memory modules should be ECC/Parity.
Warning 2518 : Mainboard temperature is too high.

And if you enter the BIOS of the MS-7037 and go to the
Hardware Monitor page, what relationship do the temperatures
have there ?

Maybe Sandra got the two sensors switched. A 24C motherboard
temperature makes a lot more sense.

If you happen to have the side off the computer case, check that
the clip on the CPU cooler is secure. Also check that the
heatsink looks to be sitting flat on the CPU and socket. Not
tilted on an angle.

Paul

 

[bud]

Hi All

the other half's PC was crashing a couple of days ago whilst I was
encoding an .avi file to .vob so I D/L sisoftsandra lite (freeware) and
run a check of the main board on the "Hardware" tab. I was informed that
the main board was overheating, in fact it was at **97 degrees**
(shouldn't be over 50).
So I took off both panels and the front of the tower to try and see
what readings I got then, but it was much the same. The only fans
installed were the CPU & PSU fans, I then shoved a little portable fan I
had in the casing and that did take 10 degrees off, but to my suprise I
had shut down the PC for around 4hrs and booted up and immediately ran
sisoft, only to discover the mainboared temp at **63 degrees!** Is this
possible?

Here's a few quotes from the report;
-----------------------------------------------------------
Model : MS-7037
Manufacturer : MICRO-STAR INTL, CO.,LTD.

Temperature Sensor(s)
Board Temperature : 63.0°C / 145.4°F td
CPU Temperature : 24.0°C / 75.2°F
Power / Aux Temperature : 18.0°C / 64.4°F

Cooling Device(s)
Auto Fan Speed Control : No
Chassis Fan Speed : 1148rpm

Voltage Sensor(s)
CPU Voltage : 2.08V
Aux Voltage : 0.77V
+3.3V Voltage : 3.26V
+5V Voltage : 5.05V
-12V Voltage : 1.21V
-5V Voltage : -0.77V
Standby Voltage : 4.36V
Battery Voltage : 3.20V


Performance Tips
Notice 224 : SMBIOS/DMI information may be inaccurate.
Tip 2546 : Large memory modules should be ECC/Parity.
Warning 2518 : Mainboard temperature is too high.

It has no fan auto speed control and the chassis fan is running at 1148 rpm.
That is very basic cooling. Not made to support any heavy processing chores.
It probably runs quiet but if you want to use it to do things like process
movies, you need more cooling power.

 

[FeMaster]

Hi All

the other half's PC was crashing a couple of days ago whilst I was
encoding an .avi file to .vob so I D/L sisoftsandra lite (freeware) and
run a check of the main board on the "Hardware" tab. I was informed that
the main board was overheating, in fact it was at **97 degrees**
(shouldn't be over 50).
So I took off both panels and the front of the tower to try and see
what readings I got then, but it was much the same. The only fans
installed were the CPU & PSU fans, I then shoved a little portable fan I
had in the casing and that did take 10 degrees off, but to my suprise I
had shut down the PC for around 4hrs and booted up and immediately ran
sisoft, only to discover the mainboared temp at **63 degrees!** Is this
possible?

Here's a few quotes from the report;
-----------------------------------------------------------
Model : MS-7037
Manufacturer : MICRO-STAR INTL, CO.,LTD.

Temperature Sensor(s)
Board Temperature : 63.0°C / 145.4°F td
CPU Temperature : 24.0°C / 75.2°F
Power / Aux Temperature : 18.0°C / 64.4°F

Cooling Device(s)
Auto Fan Speed Control : No
Chassis Fan Speed : 1148rpm

Voltage Sensor(s)
CPU Voltage : 2.08V
Aux Voltage : 0.77V
+3.3V Voltage : 3.26V
+5V Voltage : 5.05V
-12V Voltage : 1.21V
-5V Voltage : -0.77V
Standby Voltage : 4.36V
Battery Voltage : 3.20V


Performance Tips
Notice 224 : SMBIOS/DMI information may be inaccurate.
Tip 2546 : Large memory modules should be ECC/Parity.
Warning 2518 : Mainboard temperature is too high.

-----------------------------------------------------

Looking at the info, I'm going to say that Sandra has the sensors backwards.
24C would certainly be your motherboard temp. 63C (or the 97C) would be
your CPU temp. Unless there is an error in the readings, that is WAY too
high for a processor. I don't see any fan speed for the CPU?? Is the CPU
fan working? Is it plugged into the proper jack on the board (all jacks are
labeled...)? Aside from that, perhaps the heatsink isn't attached properly,
or maybe the thermal interface (between CPU and heatsink) has dried up? If
Sandra also has the "Chassis Fan Speed" mislabeled, and should actually
represent the CPU fan, this is TOO slow for a CPU fan. If there are
settings in the BIOS, kick up the fan speed! If not, maybe your fan is on
it's way out, and is not spinning at it's top speed due to wear; might just
need to be replaced...

Like another poster stated, you should enter BIOS and check to see what the
readings are in there. Leave the system run for a bit while in there and
track the CPU temp to see where it goes. There is definitely a cooling
issue there. You should add a case fan to the front of your case to help
move the air through the system. While this isn't going to do much for your
current problem, is will certainly help keep things cooler once you
determine where your current problem lies...

 

[p.mc]

Thanks to all

Infact I updated the bios after it mentioned something about a fix for a
fan, the bios did need flashing and I made sure it was the right bios for
the right board and model # but unfortunatley after succesfully updating
(on-line) I rebooted, only to get a message to boot from disc, anyhow this
wasn't working, I got a message saying a lead may be unplugged! but for the
life of me I couldn't see any probs, unless the heat had damaged the mobo
and was giving a false report because something had shorted???

Oh well it's still under warranty for call out and repair, so I think I'll
use them.
Do you think I should mention the bios update? although it did report
"update succesfull".

 

[Paul]

Thanks to all

Infact I updated the bios after it mentioned something about a fix for a
fan, the bios did need flashing and I made sure it was the right bios for
the right board and model # but unfortunatley after succesfully updating
(on-line) I rebooted, only to get a message to boot from disc, anyhow this
wasn't working, I got a message saying a lead may be unplugged! but for the
life of me I couldn't see any probs, unless the heat had damaged the mobo
and was giving a false report because something had shorted???

Oh well it's still under warranty for call out and repair, so I think I'll
use them.
Do you think I should mention the bios update? although it did report
"update succesfull".

After a BIOS flash, you can try "clearing the CMOS". That involves
unplugging the computer first. Then, there will be a jumper plug on
the motherboard, that you move, to do the clearing operation. Then
you put the jumper back. Clearing the CMOS should force the motherboard
to use default values in the BIOS setup screen. (This assumes you
cannot get into the BIOS using the normal BIOS setup keyboard key.)

You can also enter the BIOS, assuming the "message to boot from disc"
is coming from the BIOS. On my computer, pressing <Del> allows me to
enter the BIOS setup and have a look around. "Exit without saving" is
the option you'd use, if you didn't want to keep any changes. "Save
and exit", would save any changes for the next POST cycle.

Maybe the BIOS is not borked, but you'll need to do a few tests
to determine that.

There are companies that flash BIOS chips. One such company is badflash.com
but there are others that might be closer to you. For around $25, they can
ship a new BIOS chip, programmed with whatever BIOS version you want. You
have to point them at the BIOS file to use for flashing. Sometimes, you
get a reduced price, if you send in the existing BIOS chip (but that adds
days to the transaction time). For this option to a viable, the BIOS chip
must be sitting in a socket, so it can be removed and another placed in the
socket. For PLCC chips, a puller may be shipped with your order, or you can
get one of these separate, as an aid to pulling the chip from the socket.
This tool fits diagonally across the chip, and lifts underneath the corners of
the chip, helping to avoid bent pins in the socket. To put the new chip back,
you push down with your thumb (i.e. tool is just for pulling, not pushing),
being careful to install the chip in the same orientation as the original.
Little triangle marks on the socket and the chip should line up, marking
the position of pin 1.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062619

Note that, if you take your computer in for service, some well-meaning
shops format the hard drive without being asked. This, of course, leaves
the customer incandescent with rage, having lost all their emails etc. Make
sure you are on good terms with the warranty people, that the warranty service is
done locally (so there are no communications problems), to increase the
odds they don't erase your data. It helps a lot to have a backup, in case
they erase it.

So, I'd try to enter the BIOS first. Try clearing the CMOS second. Use
badflash.com or equiv, if the terms of the warranty don't include
bad flashes. And if it still isn't working, use the warranty. If
you aren't comfortable with any of this, just take it in. Telling
them what you've done, will save them some time, and they might
appreciate that, rather than figuring out it is a bad flash on
their own.

Paul

 

[p.mc]

Hi All

Looking at the info, I'm going to say that Sandra has the sensors backwards.
24C would certainly be your motherboard temp. 63C (or the 97C) would be
your CPU temp. Unless there is an error in the readings, that is WAY too
high for a processor. I don't see any fan speed for the CPU?? Is the CPU
fan working? Is it plugged into the proper jack on the board (all jacks are
labeled...)? Aside from that, perhaps the heatsink isn't attached properly,
or maybe the thermal interface (between CPU and heatsink) has dried up? If
Sandra also has the "Chassis Fan Speed" mislabeled, and should actually
represent the CPU fan, this is TOO slow for a CPU fan. If there are
settings in the BIOS, kick up the fan speed! If not, maybe your fan is on
it's way out, and is not spinning at it's top speed due to wear; might just
need to be replaced...

Like another poster stated, you should enter BIOS and check to see what the
readings are in there. Leave the system run for a bit while in there and
track the CPU temp to see where it goes. There is definitely a cooling
issue there. You should add a case fan to the front of your case to help
move the air through the system. While this isn't going to do much for your
current problem, is will certainly help keep things cooler once you
determine where your current problem lies...

----------------------------------------------------------


After a BIOS flash, you can try "clearing the CMOS". That involves
unplugging the computer first. Then, there will be a jumper plug on
the motherboard, that you move, to do the clearing operation. Then
you put the jumper back. Clearing the CMOS should force the motherboard
to use default values in the BIOS setup screen. (This assumes you
cannot get into the BIOS using the normal BIOS setup keyboard key.)

You can also enter the BIOS, assuming the "message to boot from disc"
is coming from the BIOS. On my computer, pressing <Del> allows me to
enter the BIOS setup and have a look around. "Exit without saving" is
the option you'd use, if you didn't want to keep any changes. "Save
and exit", would save any changes for the next POST cycle.

Maybe the BIOS is not borked, but you'll need to do a few tests
to determine that.

There are companies that flash BIOS chips. One such company is badflash.com
but there are others that might be closer to you. For around $25, they can
ship a new BIOS chip, programmed with whatever BIOS version you want. You
have to point them at the BIOS file to use for flashing. Sometimes, you
get a reduced price, if you send in the existing BIOS chip (but that adds
days to the transaction time). For this option to a viable, the BIOS chip
must be sitting in a socket, so it can be removed and another placed in the
socket. For PLCC chips, a puller may be shipped with your order, or you can
get one of these separate, as an aid to pulling the chip from the socket.
This tool fits diagonally across the chip, and lifts underneath the corners of
the chip, helping to avoid bent pins in the socket. To put the new chip back,
you push down with your thumb (i.e. tool is just for pulling, not pushing),
being careful to install the chip in the same orientation as the original.
Little triangle marks on the socket and the chip should line up, marking
the position of pin 1.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062619

Note that, if you take your computer in for service, some well-meaning
shops format the hard drive without being asked. This, of course, leaves
the customer incandescent with rage, having lost all their emails etc. Make
sure you are on good terms with the warranty people, that the warranty service is
done locally (so there are no communications problems), to increase the
odds they don't erase your data. It helps a lot to have a backup, in case
they erase it.

So, I'd try to enter the BIOS first. Try clearing the CMOS second. Use
badflash.com or equiv, if the terms of the warranty don't include
bad flashes. And if it still isn't working, use the warranty. If
you aren't comfortable with any of this, just take it in. Telling
them what you've done, will save them some time, and they might
appreciate that, rather than figuring out it is a bad flash on
their own.

Paul

Thanks Paul

I was hoping the bios flash had nothing to do with the error especially
after it stated "update successful"..."ah well"...BTY what's borked?

 

[Paul]

Thanks Paul

I was hoping the bios flash had nothing to do with the error especially
after it stated "update successful"..."ah well"...BTY what's borked?

borked = what happens when you update a BIOS from Windows

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swedish_Chef
http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/bork

Using a DOS boot floppy and the DOS flasher, is a bit safer. But
there are no guarantees when it comes to BIOS flashing. Note that
some BIOS downloads, have a warning on the download page, as to what
flasher tools are not to be used for the release. So sometimes you
get a warning from the manufacturer. Other times, checking Google
may uncover a flash tool issue with your motherboard.

Paul