Just installed a PC Power & Cooling supply in Dell - easy to install

  • Thread starter The poster formerly known as Colleyville Alan
  • Start date
T

The poster formerly known as Colleyville Alan

Some time back, maybe 18 mos or so, I had a problem with my Windows Explorer
displaying folders in any kind of a timely fashion. The pages got to about
10 seconds or so to just see the folders, not pictures or graphic intense
images. I posted here for help and someone said he suspected the power
supply.

Shortly afterwards, the computer "healed itself" and began to work at
acceptable speeds, but I had in the back of my mind the idea that I should
get a new PS.

PC Power & Cooling had a PS for my Dell, the Silencer 360. I approached
this job with trepidation. It looked easy, but I have tried some home
plumbing projects that looked easy and took 12 hours and 3 trips to the
hardware store. So I did not trust how easy it looked.

But I must say, it really was easy. The PS was held in place with only 2
screws, there were 4 hard drive cables, one 3.5" drive cable, and two cables
that plugged into the motherboard. Unplug them, remove the 2 screws and
slide the new unit in and screw it down. Plug the other cables into the
drives/mobo and you are done. It was actually as easy as it looked.

My Windows Explorer actually is working much faster and I am much more
confident in this PS than in the 6 1/2 year old unit that it replaced.

I also took time to put an Antec Cyclone fan into the only free expansion
slot that I had left. I am having a custom set of bookshelves/computer desk
built and the computer is going inside. There will be a speaker screen door
at the front for ventillation, but I wanted some extra assurance.

However, the unit was so loud that it lasted maybe 45 minutes before I could
not take it anymore. I uplugged the drive. I replaced the main fan several
weeks ago and the new PS has its own fan - none of the air from either is
even warm. So when my cabinet is completed (hopefully this weekend), I will
check if it gets warm with the computer inside its own little cubbyhole
(note: a ventillated cubbyhole). If I have to plug the thing back in, I
will do so. If the computer is still cool enough, I will give my ears a
break (I use the term "ears" loosely as I am deaf in my right ear!).
 
R

Roby

The said:
PC Power & Cooling had a PS for my Dell, the Silencer 360.  I approached
this job with trepidation.  It looked easy, but I have tried some home
plumbing projects that looked easy and took 12 hours and 3 trips to the
hardware store.  So I did not trust how easy it looked.

Those were typical home plumbing projects!
 
T

The poster formerly known as Colleyville Alan

Roby said:
Those were typical home plumbing projects!

No kidding. You haven't lived until a rusted pipe breaks off and then you
need to go buy an "easy out" to unstick it. Then cut some plaster out from
around the back wall and get some patching compound. All in the first 2
hours or so.

I went to take off a hose bib since the handle was broken and simply replace
the entire unit for about $10 or so. The thing did not spin in a nice
rotary fashion as I used the wrench on it. It was not, as I had thought, an
iron threaded pipe after all. The hose bib was soldered to a copper pipe
and I managed to twist off the bib by twisting the copper pipe until it
broke inside the wall. The plumber came and cut out the drywall inside the
house and $185 later I had a new hose bib and a wall that needed repair.

I was terrified that the power supply project would be a similar disaster
with my breaking some clip or destroying a chip or something. In fact, the
instructions said you could damage stuff severly if you connected the cables
incorrectly. They only fit one way, so that was unlikely, but the warning
was there nonetheless. I was nervous when I had finished about turning it
back on, but it worked well and all my applications are loading faster.
I'll keep this good luck story in my memory for those days when everything
goes wrong; I'll need it then.
 
U

UCLAN

The said:
No kidding. You haven't lived until a rusted pipe breaks off and then you
need to go buy an "easy out" to unstick it. Then cut some plaster out from
around the back wall and get some patching compound. All in the first 2
hours or so.

How about my current dilemma of a kitchen sink drain pipe that has
rusted through and clogged under about three feet of outside patio
concrete? Please don't ask why the concrete is three feet thick.
 
R

Roby

The said:
went to take off a hose bib since the handle was broken and simply
replace
the entire unit for about $10 or so.  The thing did not spin in a nice
rotary fashion as I used the wrench on it.  It was not, as I had thought,
an iron threaded pipe after all.  The hose bib was soldered to a copper
pipe and I managed to twist off the bib by twisting the copper pipe until
it broke inside the wall.  The plumber came and cut out the drywall inside
the house and $185 later I had a new hose bib and a wall that needed
repair.
This past June, the faucet on the back of the house wouldn't shut off fully.
Thought it just needed a new washer. Turned out the screw that holds the
washer had broken off. Thought I could just replace the stem. Wrong.
Hardware guy sez they don't come that way: replace the whole thing. Like
you did. Right.

I super-glued a new washer into the old stem, put it back together and use
it very carefully. I think it's almost time to move.
 
H

HarryHydro

Computers to drain-pipes! I can't resist! After putting a bunch of
bacon-grease down the drain, my sink plugged solid. I escalated up to a
50ft snake running down the drain, and that still didn't fix it. The
snake definately was going down the right path, as the house isn't that
long, but it didn't reach the clog. I cut a section out of the drain
under the house to get closer. It still didn't reach! 50ft had to be
in the ceptic tank I thought! I ended up fitting an air-compressor to
the drain, and about 30 PSI later, BAM! Done.
Harry
 
T

The poster formerly known as Colleyville Alan

Roby said:
This past June, the faucet on the back of the house wouldn't shut off
fully.
Thought it just needed a new washer. Turned out the screw that holds the
washer had broken off. Thought I could just replace the stem. Wrong.
Hardware guy sez they don't come that way: replace the whole thing. Like
you did. Right.

I super-glued a new washer into the old stem, put it back together and use
it very carefully.

Hope it holds.


I think it's almost time to move.

Ah, the ultimate solution to plumbing problems!
 

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments. After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.

Ask a Question

Top