Installing the Zalman CNPS9700 LED

P

Paul

attilathehun1 said:
Ok, I'm about to install the CPU chip and then I'm going to install the
backplate onto the underside of the motherboard. Once I get the backplate
installed, I can then start to install the cooler.
This seems a bit, well I'm glad I have some input here of help. What do you
think about that procedure? Is this the correct series of steps so far?
Install the CPU chip first, then the backplate, then the cooler? Or backplate
first, then CPU chip, then cooler or does it matter if the chip is installed
before the backplate?
Any more help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1

What matters, is that the back of the motherboard be supported, when
you're putting pressure on the top of the motherboard. You can choose
whatever order results in good mechanical support for the motherboard.

When putting the plastic piece on the top side of the motherboard,
the Zalman video shows that the plastic piece has to be oriented,
so there is room for the hinge of the lever. The plastic
piece should only fit one way, and should leave room for the
lever to move through its normal range of movement. Since the
lever is free to move, you can install the CPU either before or
after the retention frame is installed and backplate added to
the back side.

I put a half-grain-of-rice sized bit of paste on the CPU,
squash it with the heatsink, and see how far it spreads. I
clean it off. and apply paste according to the instructions
that come with the paste. Some people do it different ways
than others (they either spread it, or they place a dot
in the center, and let the pressure spread it out). According
to the Arctic Silver instructions, priming and filling the
rough areas on the metal surfaces, helps improve the performance
of the paste. So an initial application, clean it off (doesn't have
to be "shiny clean", just wipe off the excess), and then the final
measured quantity, should give good results. A little bit of
paste should be visible at the joint where the metal on the
CPU meets the metal of the heatsink. If a lot gushes out, you
used too much, and should do it again. Too much paste, works
like an insulator. The paste is only there, to displace trapped
air bubbles. You're not supposed to build an "Oreo cookie" with
it :)

I'm still on my original tube of Arctic Silver. So if you don't waste
it, the stuff lasts a while.

Paul
 
S

sgopus

Your opinion has nothing to do with his question and therefore doesn't belong
here, post it elsewhere.
 
A

attilathehun1

OK, I installed the cooler and I did a dry run like you said to do. I didn't
do a wet run though. I figured I put enough thermal paste on it and it didn't
run off.
Now, yeah this is a question that is important and I'm glad you brought it
up. I want to know where I'm going to stick the plastic fan speed controller
and what settings I want to use. I don't think I want it on the outside of my
PC tower.
I'm not that much of a fanatic when it comes to taking readings on my PC
and overclocking a card. I just want it to work right and to trade stocks and
play games like D2exp and Warcraft the Frozen Throne without it booting me
out of a game when I'm in a big melee battle.
Any help will be accepted gladly and appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
PS I couldn't get a message up here because I did some updates yesterday
and after that I couldn't get a pop up or couldn't get a message through
here. I just did a complete wipe out of my hard drive on my laptop Dell 9400.
It's now just like it came from the factory. 50% was to get messages here and
50% was because everytime I'd close out a webpage I'd get an error message to
report or not to, or I'd have to go into task manager and end the task that
way. Also I'd try and get my webpage maxed out and it was only maxing out
half of the page and not responding. Now everything is going great and faster
than hell.
 
A

attilathehun1

If you really think I should take it off and redo it I will. I figured I put
enough on both. I didn't paste the whole areas to the edges. I did about 80%
of both. I'm leary about taking it off and on too many times and striping
the plastic screw sockets.
That reminds me to ask about only using 2 bolt screws to put the cooler on.
Why do they give you 4 bolts and what's this about being able to move it in
90% increments? I did only use 2 bolts to install it. I used the 4 longer
bolts to install the backplate but I only used 2 of the 4 bolts they provided.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
P

Paul

attilathehun1 said:
If you really think I should take it off and redo it I will. I figured I put
enough on both. I didn't paste the whole areas to the edges. I did about 80%
of both. I'm leary about taking it off and on too many times and striping
the plastic screw sockets.
That reminds me to ask about only using 2 bolt screws to put the cooler on.
Why do they give you 4 bolts and what's this about being able to move it in
90% increments? I did only use 2 bolts to install it. I used the 4 longer
bolts to install the backplate but I only used 2 of the 4 bolts they provided.
Thanks, attilathehun1

Maybe when you were in school, they had practice fire drills. The
kids would all run out of the building, and the administrator for the
school would use a stopwatch, to time the exits. The idea is, to
practice so everything works smoothly.

Fitting the heatsink dry, works the same way. You're doing it, to
see how hard it is to do up, and if there are any issues with
getting it to assemble properly. Sometimes, a new heatsink applies
too much pressure to a motherboard, and rather than waste paste
while testing, you can assembly the parts without paste, to verify
you really understand how to put it together.

Then, for your *final* assembly, you apply paste. You want the paste
to be in there, when your computer is really working. If no paste
is present, the CPU will be hotter than it should be.

As for setting up the fan speed control, try the following.

1) Get a copy of Prime95. This version runs in Windows.

http://www.mersenne.org/gimps/p95v255a.zip

2) Start the program, and when prompted, you want to do the Torture Test.
A thread of execution should start per processing core. The
purpose of this program, is to test your CPU, and also make your
CPU get hot.

3) Start with the fan in "High" setting. When Prime95 is running,
are you getting an acceptable CPU temperature ? OK, then drop
the fan to "Medium". The CPU temperature will shoot up a bit.
Is the temperature too high for your liking ?

The idea of the above test, is to test the CPU when it is as
hot as possible. Then, see what fan setting results in a good
CPU temperature. Your stock trading application won't make it
run hotter than it will when Prime95 is present.

On my Zalman, I run it at full speed. But some people are willing
to accept a slightly higher CPU temperature, in order to get
quieter operation. Testing at the various fan speeds, should give
you some idea what is needed. I set the speed once, and haven't
touched it since. On one of my computers, I use nylon wraps to
fasten the controller to a metal bar in the case.

Nylon wraps can be used to make things tidy inside the computer,
but don't overuse them. They should be used for smaller cables that
get in the way - and don't do up the nylon wrap so tight,
that it cuts the insulation on the wire. (The unused end of
the wrap can be cut off with diagonal pliers with cutting
jaws - it is too hard to do with scissors and you could
cut something else by accident. To remove the wrap, you cut
it in two and throw it away. I have bags of various sizes
here, for stuff like that. The hardware store may offer
a mixed bag, of some large and some small ones.)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cable_tie

In terms of motherboard fan speed control methods, there is
a confusing set of options. The CNPS9700 LED is a three pin fan
header, so it is unlikely that it will be controllable from
the motherboard. (That would require onboard linear control,
and that has been removed from motherboards for a while now.)
Most modern LGA775 motherboards now, use a four pin fan header,
which would interface nicely with the CNPS9700 NT. The fourth
pin allows "PWM control" from the motherboard. Does this
always work nice ? Well, not always. On some motherboards,
the speed is too low, driving the users crazy. So, in fact,
you should be happy with the CNPS9700 LED and the FanMate
controller, because that puts *you* in control, and not
some buggered version of BIOS or software. Set the fan
speed for the best compromise between CPU cooling and
noise. The reason I run mine on high, is because the
fan on the rear of the computer is much louder than the
CPU one, so it doesn't matter what speed the CPU one
runs at.

The temperature you're aiming for, is 65C. You want the
CPU to be below 65C, when Prime95 is running. My CPU is
currently at 43C or so, so plenty of room.

Also, Prime95 is a testing program. If, while you're using
it, it stops with an error, then your computer is not
stable. That is the real reason for the Torture Test -
it checks that the computer can compute properly. I use
Prime95 after using overclock settings, to determine
whether my machine is overclocked too far. But you can
let Prime95 run for four hours, and see whether the
computer is stable at stock speeds. On a lot of modern
motherboards with DDR2 or DDR3 memory, you need a slight
boost in memory voltage, to make Prime95 work nice.

Paul
 
A

attilathehun1

Ok great, now I'm able to post messages with my HP Pavilion 503n PC. I don't
know why, but I must've gone into Internet Options and allowed pop-ups.
Alright now my problem is the orientation of the cooler. I think I
installed it backwards. Anotherwords, the place where you hook-up the black
plastic fan controller to the motherboard is situated so I have to wrap the
wired that hook-up from the cooler to the motherboard around the cooler to
hook it up to the mobo. Lets put it this way, the Zalman label is on the same
side of where the mobo hook-up is. Maybe that is better? I have a feeling
it's not.
Should I take it off and turn it around so the CPU fan mobo controller is
situated so I won't have to bring the wires around the cooler?
If I do take the cooler off and reinstall it, will I have to clean off the
thermal paste or just stick it back on?
Another question has to do with where I will situated the fan controller
inside the case after all is done right. Or maybe I should just lay it loose
on the mobo?
If you want, we can tackle that question later.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
A

attilathehun1

I almost forgot, what is this your saying about the CPU lever? Are you
talking about how the cooler sits situated on the CPU chip? Anotherwords, to
be able to allow?
I'm a bit lost here, but I'll say right now that the Zalman is hooked up,
even though it looks like I'll have to reinstall now, and the CPU lever is
down and now being hindered. As far as being able to open the lever I figure
someone would have to take off the cooler first. Like I said I'm lost here on
what your saying about the lever.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
P

Paul

attilathehun1 said:
I almost forgot, what is this your saying about the CPU lever? Are you
talking about how the cooler sits situated on the CPU chip? Anotherwords, to
be able to allow?
I'm a bit lost here, but I'll say right now that the Zalman is hooked up,
even though it looks like I'll have to reinstall now, and the CPU lever is
down and now being hindered. As far as being able to open the lever I figure
someone would have to take off the cooler first. Like I said I'm lost here on
what your saying about the lever.
Thanks, attilathehun1

I believe, if it all fit together, then you must have put the base on
correctly. It probably wouldn't have fit, if you put it the wrong way.
The retention frame has a "jog" in one corner, and the hinge of the
lever fits in that corner. The retention frame is top-center in this
picture, while the baseplate is on the right. In the picture, the
"jog" in the plastic, is in the upper right of the retention frame.

http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/35-118-019-05.jpg

The Zalman heatsink part, can be rotated to the four compass points,
North, East, South, and West. The idea is, you turn the cooler, so the exhaust
from the Zalman fan, points towards the exhaust fan on the back of the computer.
That keeps the air all moving in the same direction. On my computer
cases, I try to move the air from "front to back", with most of my
intake vent space in front of the hard drives, and the exhaust fan
removes the hot air from the rear of the computer.

Back of <--- Exhaust <--- Zalman ----------- Cool intake air
Computer Fan Fan Front of computer

For some people, other heatsinks or objects in the computer, may
get in the way of the cooler. In which case, they turn the Zalman
cooler so it fits. The warm exhaust air may not be moving in the best
direction, but it may be the only way to get it to fit. Each motherboard
and case will present different challenges.

If I remove a cooler, I apply fresh paste. If you don't have a lot of
paste (say you just ran out), then in a pinch you can just slap it together
again. But if you have some paste left, just use a bit more.

So the direction of airflow, dictates how you install it. Then, plug in the
FanMate controller and route the wire so it doesn't snag on anything or
get caught in any fans.

If the wires on the FanMate were long enough, you could use nylon wraps to hold
it to any metal bars or structures inside the computer case. The Fanmate 2
has a hole on the end, that can be used to secure it to something. If there
was adhesive on the back, I wouldn't trust that to hold it in place.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1767

In general, it is hard to find spots inside a computer, to fasten things
to mechanically. I've added a few fans to my computers, in some strange
places, and in one case, I made a wooden stand to help me. One part of
the wood was jammed between some plastic parts. In two of my computers,
I use aluminum L-shaped strips from the hardware store, and fasten them
with a screw, to where the PCI slot cover screws go. And then I put a
fan on the end of the piece of aluminum, using nylon wraps. But generally
speaking, it is pretty hard to find a place to support stuff they
weren't expecting.

I think I have the FanMate 1 controller, as my cooler is an older one.
It has connections on both ends, one end goes to the motherboard, the
other end (on the left) goes to the fan.

http://www.comsmall.co.kr/p_images/fanmate1.jpg

I don't like adhesives for jobs like this, because some of them
get gooey when warm, and eventually can let go. I prefer the
nylon wraps, because you just cut them with diagonal cutters
when you want to change something.

Paul
 
A

attilathehun1

Ok, I get it. Your talking about if I have to rotate it to the other 2 empty
sockets where the other 2 screws would go that install the cooler, the short
bolts, I would have to take it off and reinstall it. I thought you were
talking about it could rotate while it was running, anotherwords without
fooling with unscrewing anything. Now, I get it. I guess I need to open my
eyes a bit. LOL
Ok, one more thing that bugs me. What lever are you talking about that
might give me trouble? Is that the CPU socket lever that holds the CPU chip
in place? I see it on the install video on Zalman's install video. That
puzzles me because I installed the CPU first by lifting the lever and then
put the chip in place and snapped the lever down again. I see during the
video install it is raised up once and then wtf?
All I can say now is it's installed ok by what I can see, but it bugs me
that the CPU fan motherboard controller is on the other side of the fan. It
would be alot easier to have it come right out and connect to the mobo
instead of me having to route it around the cooler and such.
If you were me, what would you do? Would you leave it like it is, or would
you change it so it's oriented the way I've said?
Any more help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
A

attilathehun1

Ok, it bugs me enough to the point where it's off now. I just uninstalled it
and cleaned it off with a blue shop towel dabbed with rubbing alcohol. The
Zalman cleaned right off, but the CPU chip looks a little bit grey. Although
some thermal paste did come off. No, I think I'm being a bit ticky tackey. It
looks ok, both ends are clean. Right, you take some rubbing alcohol and wipe
it off with a little elbow grease. It's only been on for 2 days.
Ok, the next question is now what should I use. Should I use the thermal
grease that came packaged with the device or should I open the unopened
arctic silver pack that's been sitting in my draw for almost 2 years?
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
P

Paul

attilathehun1 said:
Ok, I get it. Your talking about if I have to rotate it to the other 2 empty
sockets where the other 2 screws would go that install the cooler, the short
bolts, I would have to take it off and reinstall it. I thought you were
talking about it could rotate while it was running, anotherwords without
fooling with unscrewing anything. Now, I get it. I guess I need to open my
eyes a bit. LOL
Ok, one more thing that bugs me. What lever are you talking about that
might give me trouble? Is that the CPU socket lever that holds the CPU chip
in place? I see it on the install video on Zalman's install video. That
puzzles me because I installed the CPU first by lifting the lever and then
put the chip in place and snapped the lever down again. I see during the
video install it is raised up once and then wtf?
All I can say now is it's installed ok by what I can see, but it bugs me
that the CPU fan motherboard controller is on the other side of the fan. It
would be alot easier to have it come right out and connect to the mobo
instead of me having to route it around the cooler and such.
If you were me, what would you do? Would you leave it like it is, or would
you change it so it's oriented the way I've said?
Any more help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1

The wiring is secondary. What counts is a good install that blows the air
the right way. That is why you paid all that money for a good heatsink.

As long as there is enough cable length, and somewhere
to fasten the controller, you should be OK. If you use the small
nylon ties, you can keep the wire tucked out of harms way. I cannot
say much more than that, because the details on each motherboard
and computer case are different, as to how much room there is and
so on.

If there was a real problem with cable length, you can get fan cable
extensions.

http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/12-119-147-01.jpg

Paul
 
A

attilathehun1

Ok, now there is another question I have about which way the fans should be.
Should they be across the short part of the mobo or blowing against the long
part of the mobo. Anotherwords, if I turn it around 180 degree it will be
blowing the same way across the mobo I think. I want it to be blowing across
as much as the motherboard as possible, right? If so, I don't want it so it
blowing towards the back panel connectors. I want it to be blowing parallel
to the back panel connectors, right? Also, which way should the Zalman emblem
be pointing, towards the short end of the mobo or pointing towards the long
end of the mobo? Anotherwords, should I have the emblem on the side that
isn't against the very end of the motherboard and the emblem going the way so
it will see most of the motherboard?
I hope that's explained ok.
Any help more will surely be appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
A

attilathehun1

Ok, finally I get it. Now I watched the video of installing the Zalman and I
see where on the plastic backplate there is one corner that has a cut out.
Now if I'm right on what I see, I installed the backplate wrong. The cut out
is where the CPU lever clips in, not where it hinges up. Anotherwords, if I
raised the CPU lever to take out the chip, the cut out should be right there.
I placed it, unknowingly, where the lever clips in. Is this right, or am I
right where I clipped it in? I think I have to take that backplate off , and
rearrange it to coincide with the lever in the raised position to the cut
out. Not to the place where it clips into the locked position.
I'll wait a couple of hours or until I hear back. Hopefully a couple of
mins.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
A

attilathehun1

Ok, finally got it right. I had to look at the install video a dozen times
and then read your answers, Paul, a couple of times and then finally
everything has come into place. Also I get what you mean by blowing the air
away from the CPU and out. The air blowing is probably going to be hot, it's
cooling the CPU so it taking the hot air out and getting rid of it.
I have a new Thermaltake tower that is gigantic, so as far as getting the
cooler into the tower, I don't think I'm going to run into that problem.
Ok, thanks a million for your input. I hope this fires up on the first try.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 
P

Paul

attilathehun1 said:
Ok, finally got it right. I had to look at the install video a dozen times
and then read your answers, Paul, a couple of times and then finally
everything has come into place. Also I get what you mean by blowing the air
away from the CPU and out. The air blowing is probably going to be hot, it's
cooling the CPU so it taking the hot air out and getting rid of it.
I have a new Thermaltake tower that is gigantic, so as far as getting the
cooler into the tower, I don't think I'm going to run into that problem.
Ok, thanks a million for your input. I hope this fires up on the first try.
Thanks, attilathehun1

Yeah, I was out for a while, so I missed those posts. Hope you
got it all put back together again. You want the Zalman pointed so
the exhaust gets out of the computer case as quickly as possible.
You don't want the exhaust from the CPU fan going around in circles
inside the case, which is why I drew the diagram. It all goes
straight out the back, unless there is some mechanical problem
fitting the cooler that way.

Back of <--- Exhaust <--- Zalman ----------- Cool intake air
Computer Fan Fan Front of computer

In terms of the paste on the CPU, it is OK for the CPU to be a
little gray in color. That is just paste caught in the grooves
in the metal. Some of the metal has a rough finish,
and the paste can get stuck in there.

Paul
 
A

attilathehun1

Sorry that you haven't heard from me, I've been working on another PC that
started this whole mess. The DIY 3 year old living room PC went on the blink
2 weeks ago or so. Now I went throught the whole kitchen sink. I reseated the
RAM sticks, changed the power supply, changed the video card, changed the
monitor and then it worked for 1 day and shut down again, changed the IDE
parallel straps, changed the hard drive, took out the CPU heatsink and fan
assembly, checked the CPU chip. Finally I was so fed up, I started on
building another PC to upgrade my Dell 8300, and opened the battery tester I
had bought a month ago to test it. I took out the 3 volt 2032 batteries out
of most of my PCs to check to see if the tester worked and presto, the
battery was dead.
All this work and it was the battery.
So now I'm in the process of putting arctic silver or thermal paste on the
heatsink and CPU. I'm just wondering which one to use. The chip is a AMD
Sempron 2200 and the socket is a Socket A EV6 bus 462 pin ZIF. The area to
put the paste on is about 1/4 inch by 3/8 inch. It does have some metal
little pieces surrounding the " big square ". Ok, I guess it's not a big
issue.
I could go right to the other PC and start building that and wait for your
response, but wtf might as well do this.
Any more help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, attilathehun1
 

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