How to optimize Windows ? (finding-removing useless processes)

C

C-A Berseth

Hi all,
A very general question on optimizing Windows (XP, but probably just the
same on 2000).
My experience with Windows is that a freshly installed system is usually
reasonably fast (if installed on
a reasonably performant hardware) and gradually slows down in the course of
Win updates, service packs,
drivers installation, software installation, ...
Of course it is always possible to reformat and reinstall everything, but
that's a lot of work and will reinstall
all crap software. It just cleans up part of the mess in the system.

The first step is of course to make sure the hard disk has enough free space
and there is enough RAM.

Then a rough diagnostic can be obtained with the Windows Task Manager. I
normally watch the CPU usage and the
"Page Faults Delta" to identify power-hungry processes or the processes that
do lots of disk accesses.

At this stage there are several questions I would like to clear up :
- Explorer.exe is continuously doing disk accesses (10-30 per second) even
if there is no Explorer windows open.
What is it doing ? Can this be minimized ?
- How do I identify processes that are waiting for some event (network ?
disk ? response from another process) ?
- How do I identify which process is sometimes causing the whole machine to
"freeze" for a few seconds (even the
Windows Task Manager will not come up in these circumstances ?

Thanks in advance for all usable inputs !
Claude-Albert
 
M

Mac

I can only answer #1 - explorer is also the desktop interface - not just the
windows explorer - so if you have a taskbar with Start etc then that's
Explorer. To test - kill the explorer task in Taskman (but keep Taskman
running) and you will see a blank screen, you can restart it by clicking on
file run "explorer" in Taskman
 
W

Wesley Vogel

- Explorer.exe is continuously doing disk accesses (10-30 per second) even
if there is no Explorer windows open.

This is not normal behavior.

%windir%\explorer.exe or C:\WINDOWS\explorer.exe is usually the legitimate
Microsoft file.
A backup copy is usually in %windir%\system32\dllcache or
C:\WINDOWS\system32\dllcache

explorer.exe can also be a virus, a trojan, a worm or spyware or at least is
suspect if found else where.

Update your antivirus software and run a full system scan.

Update whatever anti-spyware applications that you have and run a full
system scan with each one.

You might want to start in Safe Mode to run your antivirus and anti-spyware
software.

Running a full system antivirus scan or anti-spyware scan in Safe Mode can
be a good idea. Some viruses and other malware like to conceal themselves
in areas Windows protects while using them. Safe mode will prevent those
applications access and therefore unprotect the viruses or other malware
allowing for easier removal.

How to start Windows in Safe Mode Windows XP
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/index.php?showtutorial=61#winxo

--
Hope this helps. Let us know.

Wes
MS-MVP Windows Shell/User

In
 
C

C-A Berseth

Hi Wes,

Thanks for these ideas.

I have observed this behaviour (explorer doing at least 10 disk accesses per
second) on at least
2 dozen PCs with Win2000, XP Home and XP Pro. Both private and business,
laptops and stations.
All of them having up-to-date antivirus, most of them being scanned with
Ad-Aware and Spybot S&D.

Having seen it so systematically, I just can't believe this is not the usual
behaviour and would be caused by spyware/malware...

And it is nowhere else than C:\windows\, C:\windows\ServicePackFiles\...,
C:\windows\SoftwareDistribution\...

Claude-Albert
 
C

cquirke (MVP Windows shell/user)

My experience with Windows is that a freshly installed system is usually
reasonably fast (if installed on a reasonably performant hardware) and
gradually slows down in the course of Win updates, service packs,
drivers installation, software installation, ...

True, for duhfault installs. The slowdown can be avoided, tho.
Of course it is always possible to reformat and reinstall everything

Sure. It's possible to shoot yourself when you turn 20, and thus
never have to worry about hypertension, diabetes, atherosclerosis etc.
The first step is of course to make sure the hard disk has enough free space
and there is enough RAM.

Oversimplification.

Leaving aside network traffic, Internet bandwidth and 3D games, there
are three things that slow down Windows:
- increase in disk activity
- increase in the cost of disk activity
- processor hogging software running underfoot

1) Increase in disk activity

A certain process load will occupy a certain amount of memory, and the
more physical RAM you have, the less swapping to pagefile will be
required. That's the basis for "more RAM = good".

Other things that increase disk activity are:
- indexers and other processes running underfoot
- inappropriate System Restore activity
- leaving optical disks in drives

2) Increase in the cost of disk activity

These are::
- sick-sector retry loops
- slow physical hard drives
- slow transfer modes, esp. PIO
- increase in hard disk head travel
- file data and directory fragmentation
- large numbers of files in FATxx directories
- disk compression in NTFS (variable results)
- System Restore impact on monitored file operations

If the hard drive is accessed using PIO transfer modes, then the
processor may be locked out during the entire disk operation - and
this massively increases the impact of head travel. Moving the heads
takes a long time, and if the processor can't work during this period,
it can make a 2GHz system feel like a Pentium-200.

A failing hard drive can massively and patchily slow down the PC,
because what should be a simple quick disk access can become a mass of
retries that can hold everything up for seconds at a time! Suspect
this if mouse pointer sticks, keystrokes are delayed, HD activity LED
is full on, and seek noises are either silent or cyclical clicking.

3) Processor hogging software running underfoot

Includes:
- malware
- resident active defenses
- indexers and thumbnaillers

My strategy:
- avoid resident underfootware
- reduce System Restore (SR) activity
- use large hard drive for greatest data per cylinder
- concentrate most disk activity within a small cylinder range

I do this by partitioning the hard drive into a small C: that contains
most write traffic and has SR enabled, and the rest as a large
extended partition containing 3 logical volumes, all of which have
System Restore completely disabled.

The first logical volume is small, contains core user data. The next
volume is massive, has SR disabled, and contains "everything else" -
games, non-essential software, media files, incoming downloads, etc.
The last volume is small and dedicated to backups and "cold storage".

Now it doesn't much matter how fragmented C: and D: get, because head
travel can never be worse than the very small total volume size. An
8G C: + 2G D: will use 20% head travel on a 40G hard drive, but only
4% head travel on a 200G hard drive, hence big = better.

Using different volumes has the following advantages:
- allows independent SR settings
- allows different file system choices
- reduces the impact of fragmentation
- faster maintenance (e.g. post-bad-exit AutoChk)
- keeps most disk activity within front of HD for speed
- keeps most disk activity away from data areas for safety

C: is the engine room, where there are always file writes going on
(Temp, pagefile, TIF etc.) and thus where the risk of file system
corruption and data loss is high. That's why data is off C: on D:

Within the engine room, I go further to address (2), i.e. the cost of
whatever incessant hard disk activity there has to be:
- avoid multiple user account bloat factor
- shrink SR useage down to < 500M
- fix maximum pagefile size to < 1G
- shrink absurd IE web cache allocations to 20M
- locate desktop, OE data, CD burning off C:
- move all patch-and-update bloat off C:
- don't install large apps on C:
- locate all data sets off C:

Even after years of use, I still have > 2G free on an 8G C:, and
because most bloat factors are moved off C: or killed off entirely,
it's not necessary to "always have at least 1G free space on C:"; I
can go down to the last 100M without drama.

You're right to highlight the OS patching process as a foe of system
performance. Even though the full SP2 download is under 250M, it's
quite possible for this to waste > 1G of space within the Windows
subtree; eventually it gets so bad that for every 1 active system code
file, there are 2-3 inactive backed-up code files that have to be
stepped over by the hard drive's heads.

It's like working in a kitchen where all the garbage bags from the
last decade are still standing in the middle of the floor, and have to
be constantly walked around.

I have posted elsewhere on the details of these multiple redundant
stores, so I won't repeat all that here.
At this stage there are several questions I would like to clear up :
- Explorer.exe is continuously doing disk accesses (10-30 per second) even
if there is no Explorer windows open.
What is it doing ? Can this be minimized ?

Good question. I'd guess things like thumbnails, or polling for USB
stuff, or (if on LAN) looking for changes in shares or whatever.
Remember, the shell (desktop, Start menu, etc.) is Explorer too.
- How do I identify processes that are waiting for some event (network ?
disk ? response from another process) ?

Not easy, because something stalled on a DMA transfer may not show CPU
usage. I'd disable the LAN card and see what difference that makes.
- How do I identify which process is sometimes causing the whole machine to
"freeze" for a few seconds (even the Windows Task Manager will not come
up in these circumstances ?

Top of the list - because it's common, and because the outcome can be
disastrous - is a sick hard drive bogging down in retries. See
www.hdtune.com for an excellent diagnostic, but evacuate your data
first, in case the HD dies during testing.

Other peripherals, especially networking, can do the same sort of
thing; test by disconnecting these, but note that the absence of an
expected device can have a similar effect.

--------------- ----- ---- --- -- - - -
Error Messages Are Your Friends
 
C

cquirke (MVP Windows shell/user)

On Wed, 17 May 2006 10:15:08 -0600, "Wesley Vogel"
%windir%\explorer.exe or C:\WINDOWS\explorer.exe is usually legitimate
explorer.exe is suspect if found else where.
Running a full system antivirus scan or anti-spyware scan in Safe Mode can
be a good idea. Some viruses and other malware like to conceal themselves
in areas Windows protects while using them. Safe mode will prevent those
applications access and therefore unprotect the viruses or other malware
allowing for easier removal.

Safe mode isn't truly malware-safe, though it may be enough to stop
some malware from running and thus being able to defend themselves.

There are many integration points that are active even in Safe Cmd
Only, as well as some that are specific to Safe Mode.

Also, malware may replace existing code files or insert thier own code
within such files, and that can remove the need for integration.

The only true malware-safe approach is to not run any code off the
infected system at all. Google( Bart PE ) on that; it's far harder
than it should be, because MS has abandoned this need.


---------- ----- ---- --- -- - - - -
Don't pay malware vendors - boycott Sony
 
S

Shenan Stanley

C-A Berseth said:
A very general question on optimizing Windows (XP, but probably
just the same on 2000).

My experience with Windows is that a freshly installed system is
usually reasonably fast (if installed on a reasonably performant
hardware) and gradually slows down in the course of Win updates,
service packs, drivers installation, software installation, ...

Of course it is always possible to reformat and reinstall
everything, but that's a lot of work and will reinstall
all crap software. It just cleans up part of the mess in the system.

The first step is of course to make sure the hard disk has enough
free space and there is enough RAM.

Then a rough diagnostic can be obtained with the Windows Task
Manager. I normally watch the CPU usage and the
"Page Faults Delta" to identify power-hungry processes or the
processes that do lots of disk accesses.

At this stage there are several questions I would like to clear up :
- Explorer.exe is continuously doing disk accesses (10-30 per
second) even if there is no Explorer windows open.
What is it doing ? Can this be minimized ?
- How do I identify processes that are waiting for some event
(network ? disk ? response from another process) ?
- How do I identify which process is sometimes causing the whole
machine to "freeze" for a few seconds (even the
Windows Task Manager will not come up in these circumstances ?

Your experience with Windows could be considered true - for an improperly
maintained system. It could also be considered one of subjective
reasoning - as anyone who uses the same system for a long period of time may
*think* it is slowing down once they have used a system that is newer/double
to speed of theirs, or if they just grow *used to* how the system works.
People tend to become impatient and start blaming whatever it is they are
using.

I am not saying that a computer doesn't actually slow-down over time and
with some updates - as the drive gets fuller or more things collect in the
startups - yes - I am sure things can actually slow down - but that is where
proper maintenance comes in. Anything that is possible to cure by a clean
installation could have been done with proper maintenance as well.

Formatting and reinstalling is rarely needed.. It is, however - one of the
easier solutions. The easiest being to use disk cloning technology to make
an image of a completed install and apply that image periodically. This
does not keep the slowdown from occurring - only precludes having to
properly maintain the system in lieu of a quick and painless restore to a
certain point in time when performance was acceptable.

Yes - you should keep a decent amount of free space on the hard disk
drive(s). Yes - you should have sufficient RAM for the OS and all
operations you expect it and the applications running on top of it to
perform. Using the task manager can also be useful - one can learn what is
running on their system and decide whether or not they need such things.
They can also discover trouble-programs, meaning those that were poorly
written or that are slowly eating away resources that they should not be.

As for your points..

- Explorer.exe is continuously doing disk accesses ...

Sure - explorer is not just Windows Explorer (the disk access application) -
but everything you see when in Windows. Your desktop icons, your taskbar,
your background image, etc. It is the heart of Widows. And since you
probably have things configured to use Virtual Memory (a good thing) -->
there will be parts of the interface that likely use that and/or get
refreshed on occassion.

- How do I identify processes that are waiting for some event

This one has me baffled actually. I suppose you could use filemon to see
what is going on - but it would not necessarily tell youthat a process is
waiting/dependant on anything. It is easy to see what services are
dependent on what other services - but for a process - that is more of a
"you know" type thing - meanig you either know or don't know. Maybe somene
will throw a utility out there and we will both learn something new.

- How do I identify which process is sometimes causing the whole machine to
"freeze" for a few seconds

Usually this is from a lack of resources, bad driver, bad hardware,
spyware/adware/virus/trojan or a combination of the above. You could watch
task manager and see what is using all of the resources at that time. There
are probably performance apps that record such things in the background.
But the biggest thing is to just get rid of things running you don't need.
Set services you don't need to manual - limit your startups to a bare
minimum, only have applications you need install, keep your machine
virus/trojan free with updated antivirus applications, maintain a properly
configured firewall and keep your PC clean of spyware/adware (but not
necessarily by running an active resident application.)

If you keep your machine secure and clean of excess garbage - you shouldn't
experience a slow-down (true slow-down, not just a observced slow-down) for
years or more.

Microsoft has these suggestions for Protecting your computer from the
various things that could happen to you/it:

Protect your PC
http://www.microsoft.com/security/protect/

Outfitting a new computer for the Net
http://www.microsoft.com/athome/security/update/newcomputer.mspx

Getting started with a new PC
http://www.microsoft.com/athome/moredone/yournewpc.mspx

Although those tips are fantastic, there are many things you should
know above and beyond that. Below I have detailed out many tips
that can not only help you clean-up a problem PC but keep it clean,
secure and running at its best.

I know this text can seem intimidating - it is quite long and a lot
to take in for a novice - however I can assure you that one trip
through this list and you will understand your computer and the
options available to you for protecting your data much better -
and that the next time you go through these steps, the time it
takes will be greatly reduced.

Let's take the cleanup of your computer step-by-step.
Yes, it will take up some of your time - but consider what you use
your computer for and how much you would dislike it if all of your
stuff on your computer went away because you did not "feel like"
performing some simple maintenance tasks - think of it like taking
out your garbage, collecting and sorting your postal mail, paying
your bills on time, etc.

I'll mainly work around Windows XP, as that is what the bulk of this
document is about; however, here is some places for you poor souls
still stuck in Windows 98/ME where you can get information on
maintaining your system:

Windows 98 and 'Maintaining Your Computer':
http://www.microsoft.com/windows98/usingwindows/maintaining/

Windows ME Computer Health:
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsME/using/computerhealth/articles/

Pay close attention to the sections:
(in order)
- Clean up your hard disk
- Check for errors by running ScanDisk
- Defragment your hard disk
- Roll back the clock with System Restore


Also - now is a good time to point you to one of the easiest ways to find
information on problems you may be having and solutions others have found:

Search using Google!
http://www.google.com/
(How-to: http://www.google.com/intl/en/help/basics.html )


Now, let's go through some maintenance first that should only have to be
done once (mostly):

Tip (1):
Locate all of the software you have installed on your computer.
(the installation media - CDs, downloaded files, etc)
Collect these CDs and files together in a central and safe
place along with their CD keys and such. Make backups of these
installation media sets using your favorite copying method (CD/DVD Burner
and application, Disk copier, etc.) You'll be glad to know that if you
have a CD/DVD burner, you may be able to use a free application to make a
duplicate copy of your CDs. One such application is ISORecorder:

ISORecorder page (with general instructions on use):
http://isorecorder.alexfeinman.com/beta.htm

Yes - it is BETA software - but very useful and well tested.
(Don't know what "BETA" means? In simplest terms, it is the stage of a
softwares' life where it is tested for bugs, crashes, errors,
inconsistencies, and any other problems.)

More full function applications (free) for CD/DVD burning would be:

CDBurnerXP Pro
http://www.cdburnerxp.se/

DeepBurner Free
http://www.deepburner.com/

ImgBurn (burn ISO images)
http://www.imgburn.com/

Another Option would be to search the web with Pricewatch.com or
Dealsites.net and find deals on Products like Ahead Nero and/or Roxio.


Tip (2):
Empty your Temporary Internet Files and shrink the size it stores to a
size between 128MB and 512MB..

- Open ONE copy of Internet Explorer.
- Select TOOLS -> Internet Options.
- Under the General tab in the "Temporary Internet Files" section, do the
following:
- Click on "Delete Cookies" (click OK)
- Click on "Settings" and change the "Amount of disk space to use:" to
something between 128MB and 512MB. (Betting it is MUCH larger right
now.)
- Click OK.
- Click on "Delete Files" and select to "Delete all offline contents"
(the checkbox) and click OK. (If you had a LOT, this could take 2-10
minutes or more.)
- Once it is done, click OK, close Internet Explorer, re-open Internet
Explorer.


Tip (3):
If things are running a bit sluggish and/or you have an older system
(1.5GHz or less and 256MB RAM or less) then you may want to look into
tweaking the performance by turning off some of the 'resource hogging'
Windows XP "prettifications". The fastest method is:

Control Panel --> System --> Advanced tab --> Performance section,
Settings button. Then choose "adjust for best performance" and you
now have a Windows 2000/98 look which turned off most of the annoying
"prettifications" in one swift action. You can play with the last
three checkboxes to get more of an XP look without many of the
other annoyances. You could also grab and install/use one
(or more) of the Microsoft Powertoys - TweakUI in particular:

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx

Another viable (decently inexpensive) option is to increase the amount
of memory (RAM) your computer has. You can get an idea of what you
need by visiting:

Crucial Memory Advisor™ Tool
http://www.crucial.com/

Then either buy direct from there or write down the specs you get and
visit: http://www.pricewatch.com/ and locate the best price on what you
need. 512MB up to 1GB total memory should be more than enough for
the normal home user.


Tip (4):
Understanding what a good password might be is vital to your
personal and system security. You may think you do not need to password
your home computer, as you may have it in a locked area (your home) where
no one else has access to it. Remember, however, you aren't always
"in that locked area" when using your computer online - meaning you likely
have usernames and passwords associated with web sites and the likes that
you would prefer other people do not discover/use. This is why you should
understand and utilize good passwords.

Good passwords are those that meet these general rules
(mileage may vary):

Passwords should contain at least six characters, and the character
string should contain at least three of these four character types:
- uppercase letters
- lowercase letters
- numerals
- nonalphanumeric characters (e.g., *, %, &, !, :)

Passwords should not contain your name/username.
Passwords should be unique to you and easy to remember.

One method many people are using today is to make up a phrase that
describes a point in their life and then turning that phrase into their
password by using only certain letters out of each word in that phrase.
It's much better than using your birthday month/year or your anniversary
in a pure sense. For example, let's say my phrase is:
'Great new job in January 2006'
I could come up with this password from that:
'Gr8n3wj0bJAN2006'

The password tip is in the one time section, but I highly
recommend you periodically change your passwords. The suggested time
varies, but I will throw out a 'once in every 3 to 6 months for
every account you have.'

Also - many people complain that they just cannot remember the passwords
for all the sites they have - so they choose one password and use it for
everything. Not a good idea. A much better method would be to use a
Password Management tool - so you only have to remember one password,
but it opens an application that stores your username/passwords for
everything else - plus other valuable information. One that I can
recommend:

KeePass Password Safe
http://keepass.sourceforge.net/

It can even generate passwords for you.


Tip (5):
This tip is also 'questionable' in the one time section; however -
if properly setup - this one can be pretty well ignored for most people
after the initial 'fiddle-with' time.

Why you should use a computer firewall..
http://www.microsoft.com/athome/security/viruses/fwbenefits.mspx

You should, in some way, use a firewall. Hardware (like a nice
Cable Modem/DSL router) or software is up to you. Many use both of
these. The simplest one to use is the hardware one, as most people
don't do anything that they will need to configure their NAT device
for and those who do certainly will not mind fiddling with the equipment
to make things work for them. Next in the line of simplicity would
have to be the built-in Windows Firewall of Windows XP. In SP2 it
is turned on by default. It is not difficult to turn on in any
case, however:

Enable/Disable the Internet Connection Firewall (Pre-SP2):
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/283673

More information on the Internet Connection Firewall (Pre-SP2):
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/320855

Post-SP2 Windows Firewall Information/guidance:
http://snipurl.com/atal

The trouble with the Windows Firewall is that it only keeps things
out. For most people who maintain their system in other ways, this is
MORE than sufficient. However, you may feel otherwise. If you want to
know when one of your applications is trying to obtain access to the
outside world so you can stop it, then you will have to install a
third-party application and configure/maintain it. I have compiled a
list with links of some of the better known/free firewalls you can choose
from:

BlackICE PC Protection (~$39.95 and up)
http://blackice.iss.net/

Jetico Personal Firewall (Free)
http://www.jetico.com/index.htm#/jpfirewall.htm

Sunbelt Kerio Personal Firewall (KPF) (Free and up)
http://www.kerio.com/kpf_download.html

Outpost Firewall from Agnitum (Free and up)
http://www.agnitum.com/products/outpostfree/

Symantec's Norton Personal Firewall (~$25 and up)
http://www.symantec.com/sabu/nis/npf/

ZoneAlarm (Free and up)
http://snipurl.com/6ohg

You should find the right firewall for your situation in that
list and set it up.

Every firewall WILL require some maintenance. Essentially checking for
patches or upgrades (this goes for hardware and software solutions) is
the extent of this maintenance - you may also have to configure your
firewall to allow some traffic depending on your needs.

** Don't stack the software firewalls! Running more than one software
firewall will not make you safer - it would possibly negate some
protection you gleamed from one or the other firewall you run. It is
fine (and in many ways better) to have the software firewall as well
as a NAT router.


Now that you have some of the more basic things down..
Let's go through some of the steps you should take periodically to
maintain a healthy and stable windows computer. If you have not
done some of these things in the past, they may seem tedious - however,
they will become routine and some can even be scheduled.


Tip (6):
The system restore feature is a useful - first appearing in Windows
ME and then sticking around for Windows XP. It is only a useful
feature if you keep it maintained and use it to your advantage.
Remember that the system restore pretty much tells you in the name
what it protects which is 'system' files. Your documents, your
pictures, your stuff is NOT system files - so you should also look
into some backup solution.

Whenever you think about it (after doing a once-over on your machine
once a month or so would be optimal) - clear out your System Restore
and create a manual restoration point.

'Why?'

Too many times have I seen the system restore files go corrupt or get
a virus in them, meaning you could not or did not want to restore from
them. By clearing it out periodically you help prevent any corruption
from happening and you make sure you have at least one good "snapshot".
(*This, of course, will erase any previous restore point you have.*)

- Turn off System Restore.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310405
- Reboot the Computer.
- Review the first bullet to turn on System Restore
- Make a Manual Restoration Point.
http://snipurl.com/68nx

That covers your system files, but doesn't do anything for the files
that you are REALLY worried about - yours! For that you need to look
into backups. You can either manually copy your important files, folders,
documents, spreadsheets, emails, contacts, pictures, drawings and so on
to an external location (CD/DVD - any disk of some sort, etc) or you can
use the backup tool that comes with Windows XP:

How To Use Backup to Back Up Files and Folders on Your Computer
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/308422

Yes - you still need some sort of external media to store the results
on, but you could schedule the backup to occur when you are not around,
then burn the resultant data onto CD or DVD or something when you are
(while you do other things!)

Another option that came to my attention as of late:

Cobian Backup
http://www.educ.umu.se/~cobian/cobianbackup.htm

A lot of people have wondered about how to completely backup their system
so that they would not have to go through the trouble of a reinstall..
I'm going to voice my opinion here and say that it would be worthless to
do for MOST people. Unless you plan on periodically updating the image
backup of your system (remaking it) - then by the time you use it
(something goes wrong) - it will be so outdated as to be more trouble than
performing a full install of the operating system and all applications.

Having said my part against it, you can clone/backup your hard drive
completely using many methods - by far the simplest are using disk cloning
applications:

Symantec/Norton Ghost
http://www.symantec.com/sabu/ghost/

Acronis True Image
http://www.acronis.com/homecomputing/products/trueimage

BootIt™ NG
http://terabyteunlimited.com/bootitng.html


Tip (7):
You should sometimes look through the list of applications that are
installed on your computer. The list may surprise you. There are more
than likely things in there you know you never use - so why have them
there? There may even be things you know you did *not* install and
certainly do not use (maybe don't WANT to use.)

This web site should help you get started at looking through this list:

How to Uninstall Programs
http://snipurl.com/8v6b

How to change or remove a program in Windows XP
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/307895

A word of warning - Do NOT uninstall anything you think you MIGHT need
in the future unless you have completed Tip (1) and have the installation
media and proper keys for use backed up somewhere safe!


Tip (8):
Patches and Updates!

This one cannot be stressed enough. It is SO simple, yet so neglected
by many people. It is really simple for the critical Microsoft patches!
Microsoft put in an AUTOMATED feature for you to utilize so that you do
NOT have to worry yourself about the patching of the Operating System:

How to configure and use Automatic Updates in Windows XP
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/306525

However, not everyone wants to be a slave to automation, and that is
fine. Admittedly, I prefer this method on some of my more critical
systems.

Windows Update
http://windowsupdate.microsoft.com/

Go there and scan your machine for updates. Always get the critical ones
as you see them. Write down the KB###### or Q###### you see when
selecting the updates and if you have trouble over the next few days,
go into your control panel (Add/Remove Programs), insure that the
'Show Updates' checkbox is checked and match up the latest numbers you
downloaded recently (since you started noticing an issue) and uninstall
them. If there was more than one (usually is), uninstall them one by one
with a few hours of use in between, to see if the problem returns.
Yes - the process is not perfect (updating) and can cause trouble like I
mentioned - but as you can see, the solution isn't that bad - and is
MUCH better than the alternatives.

Windows is not the only product you likely have on your PC. The
manufacturers of the other products usually have updates. New versions
of almost everything come out all the time - some are free, some are pay
and some you can only download if you are registered - but it is best
to check. Just go to their web pages and look under their support and
download sections. For example, for Microsoft Office you should visit:

Microsoft Office Updates
http://office.microsoft.com/
(and select 'Check for Updates' and/or 'Downloads' for more)

You also have hardware on your machine that requires drivers to interface
with the operating system. You have a video card that allows you to see on
your screen, a sound card that allows you to hear your PCs sound output and
so on. Visit those manufacturer web sites for the latest downloadable
drivers for your hardware/operating system. Always get the manufacturers'
hardware driver over any Microsoft offers. On the Windows Update site I
mentioned earlier, I suggest NOT getting their hardware drivers - no matter
how tempting.

How do you know what hardware you have in your computer? Break out the
invoice or if it is up and working now - take inventory:

Belarc Advisor
http://belarc.com/free_download.html

Once you know what you have, what next? Go get the latest driver for your
hardware/OS from the manufacturer's web page. For example, let's say you
have an NVidia chipset video card or ATI video card, perhaps a Creative
Labs sound card or C-Media chipset sound card...

NVidia Video Card Drivers
http://www.nvidia.com/content/drivers/drivers.asp

ATI Video Card Drivers
http://www.atitech.com/support/driver.html

Creative Labs Sound Device
http://us.creative.com/support/downloads/

C-Media Sound Device
http://www.cmedia.com.tw/e_download_01.htm

Then install these drivers. Updated drivers are usually more stable and
may provide extra benefits/features that you really wished you had before.

As for Service Pack 2 (SP2) for Windows XP, Microsoft has made this
particular patch available in a number of ways. First, there is the
Windows Update web page above. Then there is a direct download site.

Direct Download of Service Pack 2 (SP2) for Windows XP
http://snipurl.com/8bqy

Order Windows XP Service Pack 2 on CD
http://snipurl.com/d41v

If all else fails - grab the full download above and try to use that.
In this case - consider yourself a 'IT professional or developer'.


Tip (9):
What about the dreaded word in the computer world, VIRUS?

Well, there are many products to choose from that will help you prevent
infections from these horrid little applications. Many are FREE to the
home user and which you choose is a matter of taste, really. Many people
have emotional attachments or performance issues with one or another
AntiVirus software. Try some out, read reviews and decide for yourself
which you like more:

( Good Comparison Page for AV software: http://www.av-comparatives.org/ )

AntiVir (Free and up)
http://www.free-av.com/

avast! (Free and up)
http://www.avast.com/

AVG Anti-Virus System (Free and up)
http://free.grisoft.com/

eset NOD32 (~$39.00 and up)
http://www.eset.com/products/products.htm

eTrust EZ Antivirus (~$29.95 and up)
http://ca.com/store/home/us/hp2/

Kaspersky Anti-Virus (~$49.95 and up)
http://www.kaspersky.com/products.html

McAfee VirusScan (~$11 and up)
http://www.mcafee.com/

Panda Antivirus Titanium (~$39.95 and up)
http://www.pandasoftware.com/
(Free Online Scanner: http://www.pandasoftware.com/activescan/)

RAV AntiVirus Online Virus Scan (Free!)
http://www.ravantivirus.com/scan/

Symantec (Norton) AntiVirus (~$11 and up)
http://www.symantec.com/nav/nav_9xnt/

Trend Micro (~$49.95 and up)
http://www.trendmicro.com/en/home/us/personal.htm
(Free Online Scanner:
http://housecall.trendmicro.com/housecall/start_corp.asp)


Most of them have automatic update capabilities. You will have to
look into the features of the one you choose. Whatever one you finally
settle with - be SURE to keep it updated (I recommend at least daily) and
perform a full scan periodically (yes, most protect you actively, but a
full scan once a month at 4AM probably won't bother you.)


Tip (10):
The most rampant infestation at the current time concerns SPYWARE/ADWARE.
You need to eliminate it from your machine.

There is no one software that cleans and immunizes you against
everything. Antivirus software - you only needed one. Firewall, you
only needed one. AntiSpyware - you will need several. I have a list and
I recommend you use at least the first five.

First - make sure you have NOT installed "Rogue AntiSpyware". There are
people out there who created AntiSpyware products that actually install
spyware of their own! You need to avoid these:

Rogue/Suspect Anti-Spyware Products & Web Sites
http://www.spywarewarrior.com/rogue_anti-spyware.htm

Also, you can always visit this site..
http://mvps.org/winhelp2002/unwanted.htm
For more updated information.

Install the first five of these: (Install, Run, Update, Scan with..)
(If you already have one or more - uninstall them and download the
LATEST version from the page given!)

Lavasoft AdAware (Free and up)
http://www.lavasoft.de/support/download/
(How-to: http://snipurl.com/atdn )

Spybot Search and Destroy (Free!)
http://www.safer-networking.net/en/download/index.html
(How-to: http://snipurl.com/atdk )

Bazooka Adware and Spyware Scanner (Free!)
http://www.kephyr.com/spywarescanner/
(How-to: http://snipurl.com/ate3 )

SpywareBlaster (Free!)
http://www.javacoolsoftware.com/sbdownload.html
(How-to: http://snipurl.com/ate6 )

IE-SPYAD2 (Free!)
https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/ehowes/www/resource.htm
(How-to: http://snipurl.com/ate7 )

CWShredder Stand-Alone (Free!)
http://www.intermute.com/spysubtract/cwshredder_download.html

Hijack This! (Free!)
http://www.spywareinfo.com/~merijn/downloads.html
(Log Analyzer: http://hjt.iamnotageek.com/ )

ToolbarCop (Free!)
http://windowsxp.mvps.org/toolbarcop.htm

Ccleaner (Free!)
http://www.ccleaner.com/

Browser Security Tests (Free Tester)
http://www.jasons-toolbox.com/BrowserSecurity/

Popup Tester (Free Tester)
http://www.popuptest.com/

The Cleaner (~$49.95 and up)
http://www.moosoft.com/

Sometimes you need to install the application and reboot into SAFE MODE in
order to thoroughly clean your computer. Many applications also have
(or are) immunization applications. Spybot Search and Destroy and
SpywareBlaster are two that currently do the best job at passively
protecting your system from malware. None of these programs (in these
editions) run in the background unless you TELL them to. The space they
take up and how easy they are to use greatly makes up for any inconvenience
you may be feeling.

Please notice that Windows XP SP2 does help stop popups as well.

Another option is to use an alternative Web browser. I suggest
'Mozilla Firefox', as it has some great features and is very easy to use:

Mozilla Firefox
http://www.mozilla.org/products/firefox/


So your machine is pretty clean and up to date now. If you use the sections
above as a guide, it should stay that way as well! There are still a few
more things you can do to keep your machine running in top shape.


Tip (11):
You should periodically check your hard drive(s) for errors and defragment
them. Only defragment after you have cleaned up your machine of
outside parasites and never defragment as a solution to a quirkiness in
your system. It may help speed up your system, but it should be clean
before you do this. Do these things IN ORDER...

How to use Disk Cleanup
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/310312

How to scan your disks for errors
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/315265

How to Defragment your hard drives
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314848

I would personally perform the above steps at least once every three months.
For most people this should be sufficient, but if the difference you notice
afterwards is greater than you think it should be, lessen the time in
between its schedule.. If the difference you notice is negligible, you can
increase the time.


Tip (12):
SPAM! JUNK MAIL!
This one can get annoying, just like the rest. You get 50 emails in one
sitting and 2 of them you wanted. NICE! (Not.) What can you do? Well,
although there are services out there to help you, some email
servers/services that actually do lower your spam with features built into
their servers - I still like the methods that let you be the end-decision
maker on what is spam and what is not. I have a few products to suggest
to you, look at them and see if any of them suite your needs. Again, if
they don't, Google is free and available for your perusal.

SpamBayes (Free!)
http://spambayes.sourceforge.net/

Spamihilator (Free!)
http://www.spamihilator.com/

MailWasher
http://www.mailwasher.net/

As I said, those are not your only options, but are reliable ones I have
seen function for hundreds+ people.


Tip (13):
ADVANCED TIP! Only do this once you are comfortable under the hood of your
computer!

There are lots of services on your PC that are probably turned on by default
you don't use. Why have them on? Check out these web pages to see what all
of the services you might find on your computer are and set them according
to your personal needs. Be CAREFUL what you set to manual, and take heed
and write down as you change things! Also, don't expect a large performance
increase or anything - especially on today's 2+ GHz machines, however - I
look at each service you set to manual as one less service you have to worry
about someone exploiting.

Black Viper Service Configuration Tips
http://www.blackviper.com/WinXP/servicecfg.htm

Configuring Services
http://snakefoot.fateback.com/tweak/winnt/services.html

Task List Programs
http://www.answersthatwork.com/Tasklist_pages/tasklist.htm

Processes in Windows NT/2000/XP
http://www.reger24.de/prozesse/

There are also applications that AREN'T services that startup when you start
up the computer/logon. One of the better description on how to handle these
I have found here:

Startups
http://www.pacs-portal.co.uk/startup_content.php


If you follow the advice laid out above (and do some of your own research as
well, so you understand what you are doing) - your computer will stay fairly
stable and secure and you will have a more trouble-free system.
 
C

cquirke (MVP Windows shell/user)

Unfortunately, your problems are likely due to what's
called "Winrot" and optimising your Windows XP PC
as best you can will likely only get a little bit of your
old speed back at best:

"Winrot" is a sign of a badly-setup system - one big C:, multiple user
accounts each with 1G of IE web cache, SR running to maximum capacity,
etc. If you lived in your home the same way - had no walls between
rooms, never threw out the garbage, left things wherever you dropped
them - you'd prolly feel the need to call the demolishers after a bit
:)


--------------- ----- ---- --- -- - - -
Tech Support: The guys who follow the
'Parade of New Products' with a shovel.
 
B

BC

"Winrot" is a sign of a badly-setup system - one big C:, multiple user
accounts each with 1G of IE web cache, SR running to maximum capacity,
etc. If you lived in your home the same way - had no walls between
rooms, never threw out the garbage, left things wherever you dropped
them - you'd prolly feel the need to call the demolishers after a bit
:)

I don't know -- you would expect Winrot in typical
family setups where mom, dad and the kids have
their own logons, and with at least one of the kids
practicing unsafe web surfing with IE. But I've also
seen it with office PC's where they just initially
install MS Office, a McAfee or Norton Security
Suite (aka POS bloatware), a few misc programs
like UPS WorldShip or such, and then don't install
anything other than the usual endless Microsoft
updates from that point on. The slowest PC's I've
seen have all been 1st and 2nd generation XP
PC's. Insanely slow in some cases. A disk wipe
and a fresh install seems to be the most expedient
fix, albeit an ultimately temporay one....

-BC
 

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments. After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.

Ask a Question

Top