Forgot thermal paste

[JClark]

Hello,
I recently put together a computer but forgot to put the thermal paste
on the CPU before installing the heatsink/fan. Should I take it down
and do it? Is it that important?
I think it would involve buying a new heatsink rack, because I've
never been able to get those push-pins out from above. Or should I
take out the MB from the case and push them out from below?
Many thanks.

Jack

 

[Paul]

Hello,
I recently put together a computer but forgot to put the thermal paste
on the CPU before installing the heatsink/fan. Should I take it down
and do it? Is it that important?
I think it would involve buying a new heatsink rack, because I've
never been able to get those push-pins out from above. Or should I
take out the MB from the case and push them out from below?
Many thanks.

Jack

Scroll down to Figure 1 on this page.

"Thermal Interface Material Application for Desktop Processors"
http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-023107.htm

The heatsink/fan comes with material screened onto the bottom
of the heatsink. Once that material is scratched up, or if it
is a phase change material, gets distorted from bed-in, it will
need to be replaced after the cooler is removed. So if the
CPU is running cool, there is no reason to panic. If you do
decide to take it apart, then you run the risk of needing to
reapply something, if the factory applied material is messed up.

I see they also offer the heatsink/fan for the Core2, as an
orderable subassembly. Useful if your push pins are damaged.
This part is only useful for a 65W processor, and not for a
130W previous generation P4 processor.

http://shop.intel.com/shop/product....ex=1&mscssid=G01S23RF01U78G80HEK5MEJ2MDP139G1

To remove the Intel provided material, you can try something
like Goo-Gone, and there is also an Arctic Silver two solution
cleaning kit, that contains similar components to Goo-Gone in
one of the solutions. The second solution in the AS kit, is
a "purifier", to remove any remaining residues.

Picture of Goo-Gone -- consult MSDS for info on composition
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/organizeeverything1_1958_84180936

AS cleaning kit
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm

You can also do what I've done in the past, which is to scrape
the material off. But that is a bad thing, as it leaves scratches
on the heatsink, and makes the contact even less effective. You
can use Arctic Silver or Arctic Ceramique paste, after cleaning
off the Intel material.

When using paste materials, if you attempt to remove the cooler
in the future, gently applied heat and a little twisting action,
can be used to "break the vacuum" between the heatsink and CPU.
For some of the ZIF socket motherboards, sometimes you'd
end up pulling the CPU right out of the socket (with the lever
still locked).

Paul

 

[JClark]

Scroll down to Figure 1 on this page.

"Thermal Interface Material Application for Desktop Processors"
http://www.intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-023107.htm

The heatsink/fan comes with material screened onto the bottom
of the heatsink. Once that material is scratched up, or if it
is a phase change material, gets distorted from bed-in, it will
need to be replaced after the cooler is removed. So if the
CPU is running cool, there is no reason to panic. If you do
decide to take it apart, then you run the risk of needing to
reapply something, if the factory applied material is messed up.

I see they also offer the heatsink/fan for the Core2, as an
orderable subassembly. Useful if your push pins are damaged.
This part is only useful for a 65W processor, and not for a
130W previous generation P4 processor.

http://shop.intel.com/shop/product....ex=1&mscssid=G01S23RF01U78G80HEK5MEJ2MDP139G1

To remove the Intel provided material, you can try something
like Goo-Gone, and there is also an Arctic Silver two solution
cleaning kit, that contains similar components to Goo-Gone in
one of the solutions. The second solution in the AS kit, is
a "purifier", to remove any remaining residues.

Picture of Goo-Gone -- consult MSDS for info on composition
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/organizeeverything1_1958_84180936

AS cleaning kit
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm

You can also do what I've done in the past, which is to scrape
the material off. But that is a bad thing, as it leaves scratches
on the heatsink, and makes the contact even less effective. You
can use Arctic Silver or Arctic Ceramique paste, after cleaning
off the Intel material.

When using paste materials, if you attempt to remove the cooler
in the future, gently applied heat and a little twisting action,
can be used to "break the vacuum" between the heatsink and CPU.
For some of the ZIF socket motherboards, sometimes you'd
end up pulling the CPU right out of the socket (with the lever
still locked).

Paul

Paul,
Very helpful information. Since it's a new system, I think I may be
better off in the long run to just buy a new heatsink and mounting
rack and do the job over with the thermal paste.
Many thanks.

Jack

 

[GT]

Hello,
I recently put together a computer but forgot to put the thermal paste
on the CPU before installing the heatsink/fan. Should I take it down
and do it? Is it that important?
I think it would involve buying a new heatsink rack, because I've
never been able to get those push-pins out from above. Or should I
take out the MB from the case and push them out from below?
Many thanks.

The push pins should be easy to remove - just turn them 90 degrees and they
pop up. Definitely worth doing or your CPU won't be cooled very well at all.

 

[kony]

To remove the Intel provided material, you can try something
like Goo-Gone, and there is also an Arctic Silver two solution
cleaning kit, that contains similar components to Goo-Gone in
one of the solutions. The second solution in the AS kit, is
a "purifier", to remove any remaining residues.

Picture of Goo-Gone -- consult MSDS for info on composition
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/organizeeverything1_1958_84180936

AS cleaning kit
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm

A couple of other common products that will take the thermal
interface material off include brasso (saturate a napkin and
let it soak in a plastic bag for an hour before scrubbing
(polishing) it away) and WD-40 (might also require a short
soak in a bag and also to wipe or wash off residue when
finished).

Scraping can sometimes be done with a credit card (-like
plastic sheet or tool), and is easier if the TIM has been
soaked as mentioned above.

 

[Vanguard]

in message

I recently put together a computer but forgot to put the thermal paste
on the CPU before installing the heatsink/fan. Should I take it down
and do it? Is it that important?

Did the heatsink already come equipped with a thermal pad? If so, did
you remove the blue tape from it?

Otherwise, yep, you'll have to remove the heatsink and put on paste (in
a thin transparent layer, not gooped on like putty).

 

[student]

The push pins should be easy to remove - just turn them 90 degrees and they
pop up. Definitely worth doing or your CPU won't be cooled very well at all.

The problem is that one always put the same heatsink/fan back on as the
crappy intel combo is very badly made; the "pins" didn't all return to
its shape for putting the heatsink back into the holes as they remain
splayed.

I went & got a better constructed heatsink/fan that uses screws for mounting
after fighting the crappy intel heatsink that came with the cpu for about
an hour or so.

 

[kony]

The problem is that one always put the same heatsink/fan back on as the
crappy intel combo is very badly made; the "pins" didn't all return to
its shape for putting the heatsink back into the holes as they remain
splayed.

Sometimes heating plastic pins in water over the stove or
with a hairdryer, will allow them to be bent back closer to
the original shape with pliers/etc - then dip in very cold
water while holding the shape with the pliers.

 

[DaveW]

Without thermal paste installed, you should be seeing smoke coming from your
CPU any time now.
REDO IT!

 

[kony]

Without thermal paste installed, you should be seeing smoke coming from your
CPU any time now.
REDO IT!

Nonsense. It'll just run a dozen degrees or so hotter
unless both surfaces are very well machines or later
reasonably well lapped.

 

[km]

Hello,
I recently put together a computer but forgot to put the thermal paste
on the CPU before installing the heatsink/fan. Should I take it down
and do it? Is it that important?
I think it would involve buying a new heatsink rack, because I've
never been able to get those push-pins out from above. Or should I
take out the MB from the case and push them out from below?
Many thanks.

Jack

Are you sure that there was no paste/pad alreay on the bottom? I
suggest that you check with the retailer to find if the CPU you bought
does in fact come with paste present. It is quite common for CPU's to
have a thermal covering which is either protected by the plastic box
the CPU comes in, or by a thin plastic film which should be removed
before fitting the CPU to the motherboard.

km

 

[Haggis McMutton]

Hello,
I recently put together a computer but forgot to put the thermal paste
on the CPU before installing the heatsink/fan. Should I take it down
and do it? Is it that important?
I think it would involve buying a new heatsink rack, because I've
never been able to get those push-pins out from above. Or should I
take out the MB from the case and push them out from below?
Many thanks.

I had a very low speed CPU and I didn't put paste on. Lasted about 4-6
months IIRC.

 

[wasbit]

Despite what others say about what you CAN use to clean off old thermal paste there is no reason not to use the correct
cleaner which is Isopropyl Alcohol. Here in the UK any chemist shop will sell you a small bottle for about £1 (approx 2
US $), enough to last even an enthusiastic home user a few years.. Just answer "Cleaning" to the question they will ask
you about its use.

Isopropyl Alcohol is over 99.9% pure and leaves no residue when it evaporates.
It is also highly flammable so take the usual precautions.

 

[Noozer]

Despite what others say about what you CAN use to clean off old thermal
paste there is no reason not to use the correct cleaner which is Isopropyl
Alcohol.

Isopropyl will NOT clean many types of thermal compound... Might as well use
water.

Scrape what you can off with the edge of a credit card, or matchbook cover.
Try and remove more with the end of a q-tip or piece of paper towel.
Finally, if need be, try a mild solvent. Personally, I just use a q-tip with
a bit of paint thinner and THEN use alcohol to remove any thinner residue.

 

[kony]

Despite what others say about what you CAN use to clean off old thermal paste there is no reason not to use the correct
cleaner which is Isopropyl Alcohol.

Not necessarily true, isopropyl alcohol will not dissolve
many thermal interface pads/substances, which instead need
(practically any kind of) petroleum based solvent. The
remaining issue is whether that solvent is a carrier for
something else you'd then have to remove with a second
cleaning step.

Here in the UK any chemist shop will sell you a small bottle for about £1 (approx 2
US $), enough to last even an enthusiastic home user a few years.. Just answer "Cleaning" to the question they will ask
you about its use.

Isopropyl Alcohol is over 99.9% pure and leaves no residue when it evaporates.
It is also highly flammable so take the usual precautions.

I'd love to be able to use it, and tried... doesn't cut it a
lot of the time. Maybe with grease but with grease unless
it's hardened you can just wipe that off with a paper towel
as there's no need to get microscopic particles of grease
off.

 

[km]

Here in the UK any chemist shop will sell you a small bottle for
..> about £1 (approx 2 US $), enough to last even an enthusiastic home

user a few years.. Just answer "Cleaning" to the question they will
ask you about its use.

When did you last successfully buy a small amount?

Having gone through a thorough check of 10 local chemists in the
Bournemouth area I found none that stocked any, some who didn't even
know what it was and only one prepared to order a bottle which was a
lot larger than I would use for cleaning off the paste, the cost was
something like £9. I bought a bottle of "akasa TIM-clean" over the
internet for about £5 then discovered that PCWorld was selling it
cheaper (the first time I ever came across a lower price at PCW).

km

 

[kony]

.> about £1 (approx 2 US $), enough to last even an enthusiastic home



When did you last successfully buy a small amount?

Having gone through a thorough check of 10 local chemists in the
Bournemouth area I found none that stocked any, some who didn't even
know what it was and only one prepared to order a bottle which was a
lot larger than I would use for cleaning off the paste, the cost was
something like £9. I bought a bottle of "akasa TIM-clean" over the
internet for about £5 then discovered that PCWorld was selling it
cheaper (the first time I ever came across a lower price at PCW).

km

In the States, every other grocery and drugstore carries 99%
pure isopropyl. That last 1% won't make a difference, it
would work acceptibly IF 100% pure would've. As already
mentioned many thermal interface materials are not soluble
in alcohol.

 

[wasbit]

Hmmm, perhaps my knowledge isn't as good as I thought it was.

Apart from types which set rock hard like epoxy glue, I thought all other Tims were soluable in alcohol.

Isopropyl Alcohol has worked on every tim that I've come across which includes Artic Silver 5, Akasa, some unknowns that
came in sachets with various socket A coolers and the sticky pads as supplied on various socket A & core2duo coolers.

Some months ago I bought a small bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol for a friend, in Lloyds chemist in the high street of my
local market town.
My previous purchase was in a small independant chemist in the same town.
Apologies if I've sent you on a wild goose chase, but because I can purchase it from a high street chemist I had
presumed that it would be available county wide.

 

[km]

Hmmm, perhaps my knowledge isn't as good as I thought it was.

Apart from types which set rock hard like epoxy glue, I thought all other Tims were soluable in alcohol.

Isopropyl Alcohol has worked on every tim that I've come across which includes Artic Silver 5, Akasa, some unknowns that
came in sachets with various socket A coolers and the sticky pads as supplied on various socket A & core2duo coolers.

Some months ago I bought a small bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol for a friend, in Lloyds chemist in the high street of my
local market town.
My previous purchase was in a small independant chemist in the same town.
Apologies if I've sent you on a wild goose chase, but because I can purchase it from a high street chemist I had
presumed that it would be available county wide.

My reply was not very well worded. When I carried out the search of
local chemists it was about a year ago. The ones who were aware of it
seemed to be concerned that stocking it was a potential fire hazard
(if I recall correctly). I can see why chemists should be aware of it
as I believe it is used in rubbing the body when massage is given -
don't quote me on that.

km

 

[student]

My reply was not very well worded. When I carried out the search of
local chemists it was about a year ago. The ones who were aware of it
seemed to be concerned that stocking it was a potential fire hazard
(if I recall correctly). I can see why chemists should be aware of it
as I believe it is used in rubbing the body when massage is given -
don't quote me on that.

It looks different in the US as 100% Isopropyl Alcohol is easily available
& even Safeway carries their brand with 99% Isopropyl in the aisle shelves;
the bottles do have a warning that it is flammable & to keep away from
heat, etc. 100% Isopropyl Alcohol is also preferable for cleaning the
stylus on a phono cartridge for those who did care about their stereo
equipment & vynl records.