Epson 1280 Control vs. Photoshop CS Control for Images

[Empedocles]

I'm mystified. On some photos, PS (CS) control works best. On other
photos, printer (Epson 1280) control works best. I find that if an
image is predominantly in shades of red, 1280 control produces a print
that is closer to the monitor (calibrated & profiled) than PS control
produces. All my settings are identical, except that in Print Preview,
I set the print profile to either Printer Management or to the
customized profile for my 1280, depending on which control I want. Of
course, if I use the customized profile (PS management), I specify No
Color Management under Color Management in the Print dialogue box. If
I use Printer Management, I select Color Controls under Color
Management in the Print dialogue box.

I guess I just need to run a test print, using each type of output
control, for my images. Any thoughts, advice? I ask this question
because in books on PS CS, I've gotten advice to print with PS
control, not printer control, or at least to know which control I'm
using. I'd like to standardize on PS control, but it looks like 1280
control may have to be used for some images. My system is a Mac G5,
running on OS 10.3.9, using PS CS.

 

[Mark Conrad]

I'm mystified. On some photos, PS (CS) control works best. On other
photos, printer (Epson 1280) control works best.

Can't help you, because I have not had the time to
get my new Epson 1280 printer on line yet.

While you are waiting for an answer, would you mind
commenting on the tendency for the Epson 1280 to clog?

(just from what I have occasionally read here)

Has it happened to you?

Mark-

 

[Empedocles]

Bought my 1280 Jan. 2005. Never a clog problem. I run the test pattern
if the 1280 has sat for 3 or 4 days, w/o use. Usually, any problems
are cleared up with the cleaning function. Maybe have to run the
cleaning a 2d time. About 6 mos. ago, switched to a continuous flow
system (CIF) using non-Epson inks. No problem.

Clogging has never been my problem. Now, if I can just get that damned
print color a bit closer to my monitor.... You bought a great machine.
I don't know why some people posting here complain about this. All I
can say is, use your 1280, as directed, & if you run into problems,
post back here, like I do, altho I've never posted re: clogging.

 

[Mark Conrad]

Bought my 1280 Jan. 2005. Never a clog problem. I run the test pattern
if the 1280 has sat for 3 or 4 days, w/o use. Usually, any problems
are cleared up with the cleaning function. Maybe have to run the
cleaning a 2d time. About 6 mos. ago, switched to a continuous flow
system (CIF) using non-Epson inks. No problem.

Clogging has never been my problem. Now, if I can just get that damned
print color a bit closer to my monitor.... You bought a great machine.
I don't know why some people posting here complain about this. All I
can say is, use your 1280, as directed, & if you run into problems,
post back here, like I do, altho I've never posted re: clogging.

Great reply, thanks, I am really looking forward to
getting my 1280 hooked up and running.



As regards your print color problem, you know of course
that it is a real hassle to try to match your prints to
your monitor, for many reasons.

In my case, I don't even try.

Probably like you, I do all of my initial "adjusting"
of the image on my computer screen until I am satisfied
with the image on the screen.

All the screen image tells me is that the photo' has
the _potential_ to make a great print.

But then, I totally start from scratch when making the
print version of the same image.

Let's assume it is a wedding photo'. On my screen the
wedding gown looks snow white, while on the print the
same gown might have a reddish cast.

....so I adjust the print to get rid of the reddish cast.

Surprise - Now I notice that my print has a definite
blue cast in all the shadows!

Now I _know_ I can't get rid of both the reddish cast
of the wedding gown _and_ the blue cast in the shadows
by any overall adjustment.

<sigh> - So I have to customize the blue shadows only,
"adjusting" shadows without altering the wedding gown.



Sure, the adjusted image will look screwy on the screen,
but it will print okay on my printer.

Funny how our eyes do not notice these things when we are
looking at the original scene.



Of course my way is the hard way. Like you, I would
welcome any system that promises to make the print
look closer to the image on the screen.

That certainly would save a lot of trial-and-error
adjusting of the colors on the print.

Mark-

 

[Arthur Entlich]

I'm not the person you addressed this to, but I have some experience and
some stats regarding Epson printer clogs.


Based upon the requests I get for my Epson Cleaning Manual, the clog
potential is as such:

Most likely to least likely

- Durabrite inks (as used in the C and CX models)
- Durabrite Ultra Inks (as used in the C and CX models)
- Dye inks (as used in the SC/Photo and some R printers
- Ultrachrome Gloss with GLOP (as used in the R800, R1800)
- Ultrachrome inks (as used in the wide carriage R printers, like the
2100/2200/2400, and wider models)

I do not yet have adequate stats on the Ultrachrome K3 and Claria ink sets).

However, there are other factors:

How often the printer is used
Environmental factors like humidity and dust levels

To keep your Epson printer happy use it often, in a medium-high humid
and low dust environment.

The 1280 comes from the factory with dye inks. Many people change that
to a CIS (continuous inking system) and pigment inks. Most dye ink
clogs that develop on a 1280 are correctable with a small amount of effort.

Art

 

[Roy G]

Great reply, thanks, I am really looking forward to
getting my 1280 hooked up and running.



As regards your print color problem, you know of course
that it is a real hassle to try to match your prints to
your monitor, for many reasons.

In my case, I don't even try.

Probably like you, I do all of my initial "adjusting"
of the image on my computer screen until I am satisfied
with the image on the screen.

All the screen image tells me is that the photo' has
the _potential_ to make a great print.

But then, I totally start from scratch when making the
print version of the same image.

Let's assume it is a wedding photo'. On my screen the
wedding gown looks snow white, while on the print the
same gown might have a reddish cast.

...so I adjust the print to get rid of the reddish cast.

Surprise - Now I notice that my print has a definite
blue cast in all the shadows!

Now I _know_ I can't get rid of both the reddish cast
of the wedding gown _and_ the blue cast in the shadows
by any overall adjustment.

<sigh> - So I have to customize the blue shadows only,
"adjusting" shadows without altering the wedding gown.



Sure, the adjusted image will look screwy on the screen,
but it will print okay on my printer.

Funny how our eyes do not notice these things when we are
looking at the original scene.



Of course my way is the hard way. Like you, I would
welcome any system that promises to make the print
look closer to the image on the screen.

That certainly would save a lot of trial-and-error
adjusting of the colors on the print.

Mark-

Hi,

There is a solution to your "Screwy" Colours, and that is Colour Management
using ICC Profiles.

The first step is to get your Display showing correct colours, by
Calibrating and Profiling.

Once that is done, you can then use the "Canned" ICC Profiles as supplied by
Epson for your Printer to get your Prints matching very closely to what you
see on the Screen.
These Profiles only work if you are using Epson Inks and Paper.

If you are using 3rd Party consumables you can easily, and fairly cheaply,
get Custom Profiles made for the Inks and Media you are using.

At first glance C. M. looks very complicated and difficult, but it really is
quite straight forward, and there are lots of workflows available which
anyone can follow.

Roy G

 

[measekite]

Mark Conrad wrote:

Bought my 1280 Jan. 2005. Never a clog problem. I run the test pattern if the 1280 has sat for 3 or 4 days, w/o use. Usually, any problems are cleared up with the cleaning function. Maybe have to run the cleaning a 2d time. About 6 mos. ago, switched to a continuous flow system (CIF) using non-Epson inks. No problem. Clogging has never been my problem. Now, if I can just get that damned print color a bit closer to my monitor.... You bought a great machine. I don't know why some people posting here complain about this. All I can say is, use your 1280, as directed, &amp; if you run into problems, post back here, like I do, altho I've never posted re: clogging.



Great reply, thanks, I am really looking forward to getting my 1280 hooked up and running. As regards your print color problem, you know of course that it is a real hassle to try to match your prints to your monitor, for many reasons.+

With OEM ink I do not have that problem when using an appropriate profile


In my case, I don't even try. Probably like you, I do all of my initial "adjusting" of the image on my computer screen until I am satisfied with the image on the screen. All the screen image tells me is that the photo' has the _potential_ to make a great print. But then, I totally start from scratch when making the print version of the same image. Let's assume it is a wedding photo'. On my screen the wedding gown looks snow white, while on the print the same gown might have a reddish cast. ....so I adjust the print to get rid of the reddish cast. Surprise - Now I notice that my print has a definite blue cast in all the shadows! Now I _know_ I can't get rid of both the reddish cast of the wedding gown _and_ the blue cast in the shadows by any overall adjustment. &lt;sigh&gt; - So I have to customize the blue shadows only, "adjusting" shadows without altering the wedding gown. Sure, the adjusted image will look screwy on the screen, but it will print okay on my printer. Funny how our eyes do not notice these things when we are looking at the original scene. Of course my way is the hard way. Like you, I would welcome any system that promises to make the print look closer to the image on the screen. That certainly would save a lot of trial-and-error adjusting of the colors on the print. Mark-

 

[Empedocles]

With OEM ink I do not have that problem when using an appropriate profile<

I profiled my Epson 1280, with non-OEM inks and an Epson paper, using
Eye-One Photo.
Are you telling me that the Eye-One profile is invalid because I use
non-OEM inks? That's what generating a custom profile is all about. It
adjusts for whatever inks are used. I've gotten great prints, using my
custom profile with non-OEM inks. It's only on some images I have a
problem. On these images, even using Epson inks was a problem. I don't
think it's an ink problem.

 

[measekite]

Empedocles wrote:

On Feb 4, 11:26&nbsp;am, measekite &lt;[email protected]&gt; wrote:



With OEM ink I do not have that problem when using an appropriate profile&lt;



I profiled my Epson 1280, with non-OEM inks and an Epson paper, using Eye-One Photo. Are you telling me that the Eye-One profile is invalid because I use non-OEM inks? That's what generating a custom profile is all about. It adjusts for whatever inks are used. I've gotten great prints,

As you have said your great prints do not match what you see on the screen.&nbsp; You said it not me.


using my custom profile with non-OEM inks. It's only on some images I have a problem.

I do not have a problem on any images when using OEM ink.


On these images, even using Epson inks was a problem. I don't think it's an ink problem.

I do

 

[Frank]

I profiled my Epson 1280, with non-OEM inks and an Epson paper, using
Eye-One Photo.
Are you telling me that the Eye-One profile is invalid because I use
non-OEM inks? That's what generating a custom profile is all about. It
adjusts for whatever inks are used. I've gotten great prints, using my
custom profile with non-OEM inks. It's only on some images I have a
problem. On these images, even using Epson inks was a problem. I don't
think it's an ink problem.

hahaha...forget it! You're way to knowledgeable and informed to be
explaining anything in depth that might require a smitten of
intelligence to our resident moron, meashershithead.
He is an idiot moron lying spammer.
Forget dealing with that loser.
Hell, he doesn't even own an Epson printer...LOL!
Frank

 

[Frank]

measekite wrote:


....just a bunch of lying uninformed crap that once again makes him look
like the complete fool.
Get lost you idiot spammer!
Frank

 

[Mark Conrad]

I'm not the person you addressed this to, but I have some experience and
some stats regarding Epson printer clogs.


Based upon the requests I get for my Epson Cleaning Manual, the clog
potential is as such:

Most likely to least likely

- Durabrite inks (as used in the C and CX models)
- Durabrite Ultra Inks (as used in the C and CX models)
- Dye inks (as used in the SC/Photo and some R printers
- Ultrachrome Gloss with GLOP (as used in the R800, R1800)
- Ultrachrome inks (as used in the wide carriage R printers, like the
2100/2200/2400, and wider models)

I do not yet have adequate stats on the Ultrachrome K3 and Claria ink sets).

However, there are other factors:

How often the printer is used
Environmental factors like humidity and dust levels

To keep your Epson printer happy use it often, in a medium-high humid
and low dust environment.

The 1280 comes from the factory with dye inks. Many people change that
to a CIS (continuous inking system) and pigment inks. Most dye ink
clogs that develop on a 1280 are correctable with a small amount of effort.

Thanks, I appreciate that info'

Mark-

 

[Ken_T]

I'm not the person you addressed this to, but I have some experience and
some stats regarding Epson printer clogs.

Based upon the requests I get for my Epson Cleaning Manual, the clog
potential is as such:

Most likely to least likely

- Durabrite inks (as used in the C and CX models)
- Durabrite Ultra Inks (as used in the C and CX models)
- Dye inks (as used in the SC/Photo and some R printers
- Ultrachrome Gloss with GLOP (as used in the R800, R1800)
- Ultrachrome inks (as used in the wide carriage R printers, like the
2100/2200/2400, and wider models)

I do not yet have adequate stats on the Ultrachrome K3 and Claria ink sets).

However, there are other factors:

How often the printer is used
Environmental factors like humidity and dust levels

To keep your Epson printer happy use it often, in a medium-high humid
and low dust environment.

The 1280 comes from the factory with dye inks.  Many people change that
to a CIS (continuous inking system) and pigment inks.  Most dye ink
clogs that develop on a 1280 are correctable with a small amount of effort..

Art










- Show quoted text -

Art,

How can I get a copy of your Epson Cleaning Manual? Would it cover an
Epson Stylus CX7000F?

Thanks,

Ken

 

[Arthur Entlich]

Yes. It covers the C and CX models.

To get a copy simply email me at the following address, and mention
which printer you are working with and if you have some specific
problems, I may be able to provide you with further help as well.

email me at:

e-printerhelp(at)mvps(dot)org

(at) = @

(dot) = .

Art

 

[Empedocles]

I'm mystified. On some photos, PS (CS) control works best. On other
photos, printer (Epson 1280) control works best. I find that if an
image is predominantly in shades of red, 1280 control produces a print
that is closer to the monitor (calibrated & profiled) than PS control
produces. All my settings are identical, except that in Print Preview,
I set the print profile to either Printer Management or to the
customized profile for my 1280, depending on which control I want. Of
course, if I use the customized profile (PS management), I specify No
Color Management under Color Management in the Print dialogue box. If
I use Printer Management, I select Color Controls under Color
Management in the Print dialogue box.

I guess I just need to run a test print, using each type of output
control, for my images. Any thoughts, advice? I ask this question
because in books on PS CS, I've gotten advice to print with PS
control, not printer control, or at least to know which control I'm
using. I'd like to standardize on PS control, but it looks like 1280
control may have to be used for some images. My system is a Mac G5,
running on OS 10.3.9, using PS CS.

Getting back to my OP (am glad Mark is getting help for his concern),
I run a test pattern supplied by my CIF vendor, who recommends running
this pattern periodically if the 1280 is not used, to keep the 1280
from clogging.

Anyway, my OP is about colors, not clogs. Point: I've just noticed
that the 1280 prints magenta (not light magenta) far redder than the
vendor's pattern shows on screen with PS CS. All other colors are
acceptable. I print this pattern after running Epson's nozzle check &
all nozzles are ok. The colors on the nozzle check pattern are
accurate.

The image profile is Adobe RGB (1998). For this pattern, I use Same as
Source for the output profile, because the CIF vendor says there
should be direct translation from image to printer with no intervening
profiles.

Maybe I should re-profile my 1280, ink, and paper, altho there have
been no changes since the original profile. The problem is with the
1280 printing magenta as too red & I think this is why I'm having
problems with images that are predominantly in shades of red. They
just come out too red.

Any ideas how to compensate for, or correct, that magenta problem? I
suppose I should contact my vendor, as well.